Gun Safes

 
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LenS said:
Paul, yes, but delivered to the bottom of your driveway!!

I call that an uphill battle for many of us where our houses are higher than the street and 50-100' or more from said street. Not to mention that who wants to advertise to passing cars that you have a huge gun safe going into your house??

I was sorely tempted but the delivery makes it impractical and a "security breach", so I've chosen to "pass".
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Somehow the guys who built this figured out a far more difficult problem.

stonehenge_07.jpg


With some ramps, block and tackle sets and a couple of friends, I'm sure it could be put in a basement through a bulkhead.

But seriously, I posted it because it's an excellent deal on a safe that size. If you can't take advantage of that deal, that sucks but others can. Maybe NES needs to do a group by on safes including a roving group of NES'ers to go around helping with the install.

Finally, if you gave the driver $50 I'm sure he'd be willing to back the truck up your driveway to get it close to the house.
 
I installed my 650-lb safe in my basement with the help of a couple friends and it really wasn't that big of a deal. We used an appliance dolly with some heavy casters to get it from the back of our minivan to the top of the door. We then used some cargo straps and a block and tackle to lower it down the stairs. Once we stood it up, I was able to walk it into position in the basement. The trickiest part was rigging the block and tackle to something secure at the top of the stairs. I drilled a couple holes into the concrete sill under my workbench on the other side of the garage opposite the basement door, set a couple of anchor screws in the holes, drilled a couple matching holes in a piece of angle iron, and bolted it down. It remains in that position, should I ever want to hoist the safe back out of the basement. Saved myself a few hundred bucks going in, and I'll save a few hundred more going back out.

I expect an experienced rigging crew would make it look easy.
 
I hired Demer's rigers to deliver a 5000 lb safe from the Mansfied area to the cape for $700 installed!! Besides the drive back and forth, it took them almost 3 hrs to install the safe.

BTW - the safe cost me only $300 -84"h x60"ww x 30"d

Pics to follow.

Fred
 
the key is useless most dealers recommed tapeing the key to the door to keep a thief from messing up your lock,the locking comes from the tumblers. i have one safe with and one without a key,a good safe is very hard to get into ask any cop.don't be like a lot of people who wait to buy one after they have been robbed.
 
hillbill said:
the key is useless most dealers recommed tapeing the key to the door to keep a thief from messing up your lock,the locking comes from the tumblers. i have one safe with and one without a key,a good safe is very hard to get into ask any cop.don't be like a lot of people who wait to buy one after they have been robbed.
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Whaaaaat???
 
Whaaaaat???
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Correct and I'm not sure they are even uniquely keyed. The key is only useful for two things - locking the safe in the "unlocked" position, or "day locking" - where you lock the safe, but only turn the dial enough to lock it with the bolt extended, but not enough to clear the wheel pack alignment. No need to tape the key to the safe door - just don't use the lock. The keyhole on the fact actually negated much of the "spyproof" feature of having the numbers on the top of the dial.

Recommending the key can be "taped to the door" is ridiculous - just leave the thing unlocked. Just save the key in case you ever want to sell the safe.
 
Rob Boudrie said:
Correct and I'm not sure they are even uniquely keyed. The key is only useful for two things - locking the safe in the "unlocked" position, or "day locking" - where you lock the safe, but only turn the dial enough to lock it with the bolt extended, but not enough to clear the wheel pack alignment. No need to tape the key to the safe door - just don't use the lock. The keyhole on the fact actually negated much of the "spyproof" feature of having the numbers on the top of the dial.

Recommending the key can be "taped to the door" is ridiculous - just leave the thing unlocked. Just save the key in case you ever want to sell the safe.
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I have 2 Champion safes with the Sargent and Greenleaf type II locks and they are both keyed the same. Also with the little combo change key they both now have the same combo.

Oh and one was 1250 lbs and the other was 750 lbs and with a couple of friends and I we where able to get them both down into the basement. It did take a bit of rigging and some time to do it safely but we had no real problems.
 
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Palladin said:
Does anyone have one of these???
http://www.titangunvault.com/

Thinking of getting it because I like the Simplex lock system and I have a HandGunsafe (which isn't made anymore) and want the type of configuration.

Thanks
Joe
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Wow, interesting product! If you learn any more about it or end up buying one, let us know.

After hearing about some issues with the GunVault, I wouldn't mind having a small mechanical safe like this as a backup.
 
On my Liberty the key fixes the dial to the relockers. If the dial is forced when key locked the relocker fires and the tumblers are disabled.

The other function is when the safe is in day mode you can use the key to secure the dial (linking it to the relocker) and then open the safe again without the combination.

Leaving the key out would disable one of the primary security features of the Atlas lock
 
On my Liberty the key fixes the dial to the relockers. If the dial is forced when key locked the relocker fires and the tumblers are disabled.
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Yes, but it's a very easily picked lock.
 
I would believe it is, but the purpose is not to secure the bolts or the throw handle the dial does that. The key is just another measure to increase the security of the dial. If you can defeat a 4 number sequence combination on a 1 to 100 combination dial a single bit key is not even a warm up. The overwhelming majority of people I worry about will be using tools such as pipe wrenches, sledges and bars to get past the combination and having the dial tied to the relocker will keep them out. If you can pick the dial key lock and the combination lock without setting off the relockers or alarm your not wasting your time in my house there are better places to use that skill set.
 
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I not sure if there is any safe short of a bank vault that a pro can get into in about 5 min. The whole idea of the safe is to keep the casual peeker and smash and grab pin heads from walking off with your guns. I have the the 5453 offered by FSGUNS in wobourn ma. decent safe, it is now to small!!! aint they all. You best bet also is to search any want adds, estate sales ect ect. I found one big safe at a jewlery store closing! I just could not get some one to move it fast enough. Had to go by a certain time. Your local lock smith is also a good source of safes.
 
Marcus in the Darkus said:
Since this seems to be the definitive gun safe thread, this is where I'll post about Rifle Rods, a very interesting sokution to overcrowded gun safes.

Maybe we should set up a group buy?

Check out the web site and watch the video:

http://www.storemoreguns.com/
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I bought a bunch of these. I didn't get the whole kit though, I just bought the rods. I still have to get some more of the "rug" stuff they line the insides of the safe with to cover over the underside of my lower shelf so the rods will work. From what I can see - the product will do what they claim on the website.
 
I just started looking at safes too and I think this is the one I'm going with. You get a double locking system, electronic lock with a key.Also the 180* door is nice to gain full entrance, 10 bolts around the door frame,10 guage steel( most are 12 ), high gloss finish paint and they have 6 months interest free financing right now.The write ups on Costcos site were mixed on the Canon safes and these are about the same price.

http://www.patriotsafe.com/products.html
 
If you can pick the dial key lock and the combination lock without setting off the relockers or alarm your not wasting your time in my house there are better places to use that skill set.
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As long as the thread is active again....

The issue is not "picking both", but not leaving the safe in a situation where picking the dial lock grants access because the combo is pre-dialed. (also, one does not "pick" a dial combination, one "manupuilates"). Anyone who has any background in hacking would be considered uneducated if they could not pick the dial lock with ease.

Key locks can actually reduce security in commercial establishments, since the position of the keyhole on the dial can easily defeat the "spyproof" feature of having the combination digits on the top of the dial.
 
Has anyone read about the warranty provided from Cannon Safe? Looks to be top notch!
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Cannon had the misfortune of telling one of my friends that the warrantee on an electronic lock failure means they are only obligated to send out a replacement lock and then only if it fails within the one year lock warranty period. They further explained that the lock warranty does not cover lockout service.

I say "misfortune" since there are a few main sources of industry info everyone in the business follows - The shooting/outdoor/etc. wires from Jim Shepherd and the Michael Bane blog (michaelbane.blogspot.com). The owner of the Cannon safe was Michael Bane and he definitely was not playing the game of "never make unflattering comments about a company in the industry in which you make your living". The photo oif him showing how he was planning on wearing the broken lock as ghetto jewelery to the Shot Show was priceless. I believe his rant on the Cannon warranty is still available online. Cannon eventually sent him a new panel for the lock (they originally sent a cheaper model as a replacement) and he was able to get in.

I don't think anyone offers a lockout warranty, however, Cannon is less than forthcoming about this being an exclusion when they brag about their support policy.
 
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