lukewarm_fuzz
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You don't really "drive" the gun when you are trying to shoot accurately at distance and speed isn't that critical.I’m not a pro, so take this with a grain of salt. But these are my experiences:
The bullet should be leaving the barrel before the bolt starts to unlock, so driving the gun shouldn’t have an effect on accuracy. The biggest need for controlling and driving a gas gun, in a precision capacity, is to limit movement so you can observe splash, etc..
The caveat is in the time from trigger squeeze to the firing pin hitting the primer. It seems like gas guns may need a steadier/firmer firing hand coupled with ensuring trigger squeeze fundamentals. Part of that may be because gas guns generally have heavier triggers, part may be because of the use of a hammer and its rotational movement instead of spring loaded firing pins.
I’m sure you’re already tracking, but for others reading: dime/washer drills are a great way to practice good trigger control fundamentals on a gas gun.
You don't really "drive" the gun when you are trying to shoot accurately at distance and speed isn't that critical.
Your goal should be to gently press the trigger straight to the rear while exerting zero pressure with your thumb and rearward all the other fingers on your hand.
Some people pull it tighter into their shoulder. This helps with seeing your shot land since movement due to recoil is reduced. But it can also be overdone to the point where it hurts accuracy.
If I'm shooting a .223 with a brake I can leave the gun pretty loose and still see my splash. If I'm shooting my .308 with my pretty hot handloads (almost 2800 fps with a 175 gr SMK) then it needs to be held to the rear pretty firmly along with the scope being at 16x or below if I am going to have any hope of seeing the splash. Most important is that you do it the same every time.
When I "drive" a gun, I'm thinking about shooting a plate rack. In that case I'm moving my gun to the next plate before I even see the plate's reaction. When I'm shooting rifles I take an exaggerated pause to make sure I'm following through. It's all about balance. If I'm shooting a 3 gun match and the target is 20 yards away, I'll drive the rifle. But if I then have to engage something 200+yards away, it's all about gentle and follow through.
You don't really "drive" the gun when you are trying to shoot accurately at distance and speed isn't that critical.
The guy on Backfire loves his. But he did mention, several times, that the short barrel length can be picky when reloading. But it is a great rifle once the load is developed.Sig 6.5 Creed - cross rifle!
I use 0 MOA for 600 with 6.5cm. I can get to 600 using the reticle.Newb question since I’m just getting into longer distance shooting: are you guys generally using 0 MOA or canted mounts?
I assume I’ll be in the 500 yd range since I don’t have access to further. Yes, I realize some of you can do that with iron sights or whatever- I cannot.
308 boomer from an AR10 w/18” barrelI use 0 MOA for 600 with 6.5cm. I can get to 600 using the reticle.
What caliber are you going to shoot?
That'll still turn into a 10,000 dollar problem by the time it's done.Not as bad but the wife came out of the bathroom this morning and stated we need to revamp the stand up shower. She’s always hated the beige color and is now fed up with it. Time for a new one I guess. Boooooo
What is the point?Not as bad but the wife came out of the bathroom this morning and stated we need to revamp the stand up shower. She’s always hated the beige color and is now fed up with it. Time for a new one I guess. Boooooo
Throw a 20 moa mount on it and then you're all set for anything.Newb question since I’m just getting into longer distance shooting: are you guys generally using 0 MOA or canted mounts?
I assume I’ll be in the 500 yd range since I don’t have access to further. Yes, I realize some of you can do that with iron sights or whatever- I cannot.
Can confirm it’s very legit.The guy on Backfire loves his. But he did mention, several times, that the short barrel length can be picky when reloading. But it is a great rifle once the load is developed.
I have no personal experience.
Newb question since I’m just getting into longer distance shooting: are you guys generally using 0 MOA or canted mounts?
I assume I’ll be in the 500 yd range since I don’t have access to further. Yes, I realize some of you can do that with iron sights or whatever- I cannot.
If you think you might go further out, I would get the 20 MOA.308 boomer from an AR10 w/18” barrel
This has always been my philosophy with a bolt gun but I’m starting to question if it holds true with gas guns.
This is interesting. I don't really thing of it that way.it seems that for precision gas guns it is used as a way to describe the active control measures taken to keep the rifle precise while the action moves. But, as I mentioned, I don’t think it’s much of a concern with respect to the bolt/carrier mass moving.
Ive wanted one for a very long time now but the occasional report of reliability and no real application other than a sanctioned shoot has kept me from pursuing it.Here’s my boomer long range rifle. Bought it for my boomer dad cause it was his favorite rifle and it would get him out to the range with me again. I’ve yet to put any optics on it because I don’t get to shoot past 100 yds that often.
View attachment 862902
I’ve Had the rifle since 2008 and shot well over 5k rounds though it in a 3 year span till the great ammo price hike in 2012. No issuesIve wanted one for a very long time now but the occasional report of reliability and no real application other than a sanctioned shoot has kept me from pursuing it.
You should be good to go with standard rail / mounts for 500 yards. With a .308 168 grain bullet running a very mild 2600 fps, the drop from a 100 yd zero to 500 yards is only 12.5 MOA.Newb question since I’m just getting into longer distance shooting: are you guys generally using 0 MOA or canted mounts?
I assume I’ll be in the 500 yd range since I don’t have access to further. Yes, I realize some of you can do that with iron sights or whatever- I cannot.
Reliability issues for M1A's / M14's? Not sure that's really a 'thing' any more than AR-308's. I built this a few years ago and have shot dozens of matches with it and no failures with a couple thousand rounds down the pipe. Bula receiver and bolt, Criterion barrel. At 200 yards and slinged up, you can do rapid fire mag dumps with it and not miss a standard torso steel plate.Ive wanted one for a very long time now but the occasional report of reliability and no real application other than a sanctioned shoot has kept me from pursuing it.
Thanks. Yeah, I expect i’ll be mostly at 300 yds, occasionally at 500. Right now I’m building a DMR and have no idea WTF I’m doing, and equipment mistakes are expensive.You should be good to go with standard rail / mounts for 500 yards. With a .308 168 grain bullet running a very mild 2600 fps, the drop from a 100 yd zero to 500 yards is only 12.5 MOA.
Some people have had issues with SAI rifles. But mine has been solidReliability issues for M1A's / M14's? Not sure that's really a 'thing' any more than AR-308's. I built this a few years ago and have shot dozens of matches with it and no failures with a couple thousand rounds down the pipe. Bula receiver and bolt, Criterion barrel. At 200 yards and slinged up, you can do rapid fire mag dumps with it and not miss a standard torso steel plate.
This is the way.You should be good to go with standard rail / mounts for 500 yards. With a .308 168 grain bullet running a very mild 2600 fps, the drop from a 100 yd zero to 500 yards is only 12.5 MOA.
Sounds like a fun build. Don't flint on the BCG and barrel and it's hard to go wrong. I think a solid DMR is maybe 600 yards and under? Again, with a relatively mild load that's not really shooting that flat, 600 yd drop is only ~17 MOA drop. Athlon makes decent but very affordable scopes, and even their entry level glass will give you 60 MOA of elevation adjustment. Let's say your scope mounts so that it's somewhere in the middle of that range, you still have ~30 MOA to play with for elevation.Thanks. Yeah, I expect i’ll be mostly at 300 yds, occasionally at 500. Right now I’m building a DMR and have no idea WTF I’m doing, and equipment mistakes are expensive.
Don’t be afraid to throw a 20 or so on there. Might as well future proof your setup.Thanks. Yeah, I expect i’ll be mostly at 300 yds, occasionally at 500. Right now I’m building a DMR and have no idea WTF I’m doing, and equipment mistakes are expensive.
The bigger issue with shooting matches with M14 pattern rifles is their finickiness. You need to bed the stock and do all kinds of voodoo to get a 1 MOA gun. God forbid you bump the gun too hard it can throw something off. So it's not the reliability per se. It's the effort and finickiness necessary to build and maintain a truly accurate rifle.Some people have had issues with SAI rifles. But mine has been solid
Still want to add a full length match to the collection and will probably do a GI build