Jim Zumbo of Outdoor Life labels AR-15s Terrorist Rifles

z0mbi said:
Oh, crap...I thought the lowers were universal.
They are, you mentioned building a stag and stag stamps the caliber on the lower. I bought one it says 5.56mm on it. Not that it matters.

If you are a lefty you can use a Stag lefty upper on anyone's lower.
 
Oh, no I was talking about just buying the complete Stag rifle in .223. For a 6.8SPC build, I would go with whatever was the best lower that people seem to like.
 
Oh, no I was talking about just buying the complete Stag rifle in .223. For a 6.8SPC build, I would go with whatever was the best lower that people seem to like.

That's like asking "What's the best 1911?". You will get as many different opinions as you do answers.

Stag makes a very good product. You won't regret it. Basically any of the major brands will serve you fine.

Also when Stag says "Pre-Ban" in their catalog that means that it is a pre-ban configured new rifle. It's legal in most states but MA is not one of them. We have to deal with post-ban configurations on new rifles in this state.
 
Last edited:
A stripped lower is an overpriced, Federally-regulated paperweight.

A completed lower is the regulated half of a rifle.
 
You can generally select from a few different stalks and grips when buying a complete lower. There are many different stalks and a few different pistol grips available at various prices. Most places selling complete lowers do not have a full compliment of stalks and grips to choose from when buying a complete lower. Biggest advantage of a complete lower is it just needs to have an upper attached and it's ready to go. Disadvantages is that you will have only a few different setups to choose from.
Ah... THIS is more like what I'm looking for! THANK YOU!!

So the lower basically has the trigger group - does it have the hammer too? And the upper has what - the bolt?
A stripped lower is an overpriced, Federally-regulated paperweight.

A completed lower is the regulated half of a rifle.
[laugh2][rofl][rofl2]
 
So the lower basically has the trigger group - does it have the hammer too? And the upper has what - the bolt?

The completed lower has the entire Fire Control Group, grip, buttstock and the 2 pins that allow it to secure the upper receiver.

A complete upper has the upper receiver w/sights or scope mount, barrel, gas tube, forestock*, bolt group, bolt handle, forward bolt assist and the spring-loaded dust cover.

"Stalks" are for asparagus; not AR's.
 
The completed lower has the entire Fire Control Group, grip, buttstock and the 2 pins that allow it to secure the upper receiver.

A complete upper has the upper receiver w/sights or scope mount, barrel, gas tube, forestock*, bolt group, bolt handle, forward bolt assist and the spring-loaded dust cover.

"Stalks" are for asparagus; not AR's.

Actually... the proper term is a charging handle, not a "bolt handle".
 
Ross, here's the configuration that I consider most versatile:

1) 16" barrel with a 1/7 rifling rate
2) carbine or midlength gas system
3) six position stock (oops, make that a fixed one for you)
4) MIL-STD-1913 rail on top of receiver
5) 4 MOA Aimpoint (Comp ML2 or Comp C)
6) Larue back up rear sight
7) two-point tactical (side mounted) sling
Jose, would you use this configuration to shoot out past 400-500 yards? I'm think that I'd want to use the AR for an Appleseed shoot, and they do shoot out to 600 yards.
 
Jose, would you use this configuration to shoot out past 400-500 yards? I'm think that I'd want to use the AR for an Appleseed shoot, and they do shoot out to 600 yards.

Absolutely. The shorter barrel is no issue whatsoever. Remember velocity = elevation. Slower ammo, dial in more elevation in the rear sight and watch the wind a bit more.

The reason I like flat tops is sight system modularity. Pick the right sight for the mission. The way my carbine is configured, it is good to go to 300 yards. There is no capability to adjust elevation on the fly or or use stadia lines for drop compensation on the Aimpoint I have, but inside of 300 yards that does not matter. With a 50 yard zero, any centerfire rifle bullet going 2600 to 2800 fps will be about 1.5" high at 100, on at around 220, and about 6" low at 300. I can hit a man without much trouble with that setup.

If I needed to shoot farther, I would just unclip the Aimpoint and fixed rear sight and replace it with a scope with some sort of bullet drop compensation like a Leupold Mk4 MR/T or a scope with range stadia lines like a Trijicon ACOG TA-31F or TA-31RCO (there are other ACOG models that will also work but the number models escape me).

If you must have irons that will go the distance, Rock River makes a detachable carry handle (their National Match model) with enough elevation to go to 600 yards. The std GI carry handle runs out at 500.

I while I still think irons must be mastered, optical sights (especially low magnification optics) provide an order of magnitude greater capability that I would not have irons as my primary sight in any rifle meant for serious use.
 
Absolutely. The shorter barrel is no issue whatsoever. Remember velocity = elevation. Slower ammo, dial in more elevation in the rear sight and watch the wind a bit more.

The reason I like flat tops is sight system modularity. Pick the right sight for the mission. The way my carbine is configured, it is good to go to 300 yards. There is no capability to adjust elevation on the fly or or use stadia lines for drop compensation on the Aimpoint I have, but inside of 300 yards that does not matter. With a 50 yard zero, any centerfire rifle bullet going 2600 to 2800 fps will be about 1.5" high at 100, on at around 220, and about 6" low at 300. I can hit a man without much trouble with that setup.

If I needed to shoot farther, I would just unclip the Aimpoint and fixed rear sight and replace it with a scope with some sort of bullet drop compensation like a Leupold Mk4 MR/T or a scope with range stadia lines like a Trijicon ACOG TA-31F or TA-31RCO (there are other ACOG models that will also work but the number models escape me).

If you must have irons that will go the distance, Rock River makes a detachable carry handle (their National Match model) with enough elevation to go to 600 yards. The std GI carry handle runs out at 500.

I while I still think irons must be mastered, optical sights (especially low magnification optics) provide an order of magnitude greater capability that I would not have irons as my primary sight in any rifle meant for serious use.

+1 - great points. I think Jose makes suggestions for a great "do it all" rifle. I prefer the Trijicon Tripower over the Aimpoint, but that's just preference - both are great sights. I use a LaRue throwlever for all my optics, so going from electronics to magnified optics, to strictly irons, (Troy BUIS) is easy breezy.

You may want to look into a new Millet DMS. Reviews are great and it seems to be a "do it all" scope for a "do it all rifle"....
 
If you must have irons that will go the distance, Rock River makes a detachable carry handle (their National Match model) with enough elevation to go to 600 yards. The std GI carry handle runs out at 500.

I think the regular carrying handle will work out to 600M on an M4A1 if your shooting center of mass with ball ammo or bullets that are about the same weight as the 62 gr M855 bullet. I think the elevation problems come with A4s or M4s and heavy bullets (looping trajectories).

B
 
I think the regular carrying handle will work out to 600M on an M4A1 if your shooting center of mass with ball ammo or bullets that are about the same weight as the 62 gr M855 bullet. I think the elevation problems come with A4s or M4s and heavy bullets (looping trajectories).

B

You could very well be right. I have not researched this too much since I have no need for a detachable carry handle. In any case, you cannot have too much W/E adjustment.
 
Back
Top Bottom