Tavor: who has one or opinion

[quinnjalan]

For slings look up Savvy Sniper. IWI has a video on it. It works well.

 

[paul73]

For slings look up Savvy Sniper. IWI has a video on it. It works well.

the $13 fast loop sling i posted is similar to what they sell for $50. but, i do not disagree, savvy sniper makes some really nice quad $100+ slings, if one wants 'em. for me it is not a priority.

 

[lel]

For slings look up Savvy Sniper. IWI has a video on it. It works well.

I have this on my Tavor. Highly recommend. Hangs rifle in perfect position.

 

[Soundwave]

I bought the savvy but I spent too much time shopping for a deal. Ended up grabbing one with that HK cobra clip instead of an extra quick detach. Not a huge deal for me though.

 

[Grendizer138]

View attachment 412176

I ran my X95 through an advanced rifle/vehicle class recently; one of the many things I found was the importance/necessity of that pistol grip conversion.

 

[Soundwave]

I ran my X95 through an advanced rifle/vehicle class recently; one of the many things I found was the importance/necessity of that pistol grip conversion.

Care to elaborate why? I really like the cutlass guard and wasn't really planning on changing it.

 

[cathouse01]

Care to elaborate why? I really like the cutlass guard and wasn't really planning on changing it.

I’ve found that with the cutlass guard when my trigger finger is off the trigger and along side the receiver (where it should be when you’re off target) that my middle finger can slip over that little bump and get up behind the trigger and create an issue when I want to get back on the trigger.

 

[Grendizer138]

Care to elaborate why? I really like the cutlass guard and wasn't really planning on changing it.

When manipulating/handling a typical rifle with a trigger guard, you’ll instinctively grab the rifle and your finger will safely find it’s way above the trigger guard while your grip finds its way to the pistol grip. With the cutless guard there was no way to quickly and safely pick up the rifle without either looking or “feeling” the pistol grip and working your other fingers into the guard. It isn’t a concern at the range, but under stress it was a constant worry that i’d grab the rifle and my middle finger would find it’s way to the trigger. Less of a concern if this is the only rifle you use and you’re accustomed to handling it, but try experimenting by picking it up quickly without looking.

 

[Grendizer138]

Here’s the setup, for what it’s worth.

 

[cathouse01]

When manipulating/handling a typical rifle with a trigger guard, you’ll instinctively grab the rifle and your finger will safely find it’s way above the trigger guard while your grip finds its way to the pistol grip. With the cutless guard there was no way to quickly and safely pick up the rifle without either looking or “feeling” the pistol grip and working your other fingers into the guard. It isn’t a concern at the range, but under stress it was a constant worry that i’d grab the rifle and my middle finger would find it’s way to the trigger. Less of a concern if this is the only rifle you use and you’re accustomed to handling it, but try experimenting by picking it up quickly without looking.

And I agree that if all you shoot is the Tavor, you would probably adapt to the cutlass guard and not have a problem with it. But I shoot my ARs a lot more than my X95 (even though my X95 is my goto home defense rifle) so I find the normal pistol grip much more “user friendly”.

 

[paul73]

And I agree that if all you shoot is the Tavor, you would probably adapt to the cutlass guard and not have a problem with it. But I shoot my ARs a lot more than my X95 (even though my X95 is my goto home defense rifle) so I find the normal pistol grip much more “user friendly”.

as of pistol grip - to me it was the very first thing to do, as, i am just used to have my trigger finger in a proper position on the guard, with this guard it is intuitively convenient. feels like a glock now.

anyway, my build is done, and i just went over some minor pain of zeroing all those 3 pieces of optics against a neighbor`s garage. all i could get there was about of 20-25yd distance, so, all that will need to be re-adjusted on the range.

so, primary scope is vortex viper pst2 - amazing.
mount under it - cheap monstrum e series - it sets scope 0.2" higher than aero precision mount and it made quite a difference, so, heck with it. it seems to be solid enough and sits well enough. if it will cause problems - i can replace it later.

the side red dot is a Truglo TG8100B on a 45deg 'Pinty angle rail'. I intended placing vortex venom there but it died right in my arms while zeroing - upon rotation of the R bolt red dot flickered and disappeared. so, tru-glo it is, for now.
i suspect i will take it off completely after initial range tests, i do not think it is needed at all with this 1-6x. just a dead weight. but, works ok and is bright enough in a sunlight.

at the very front is a rechargeable green laser - ADE HG54G, that definitely stays. for now it is zeroed to 25yd via barrel, and then other scopes were set to it.

that little borescope laser i posted about several posts above is a complete garbage. i tried using it initially but it was giving me different readings at every try, so i took rifle apart, reached to it and - well, it is bit smaller than the chamber and moves in it freely, so, is it completely pointless. so, i just did it all old fashion way - via looking through the barrel, which worked fine.

so, hopefully, i will find some time to get to the ranch with this setup and complete zeroing process, and, then, it is it.

if i did not mention it enough before - this new viper pst2 is amazing. at 1x you see whole field non distorted, no visible barrel distortion, no parallax issues i could detect from 10yds up, feels amazing. great glass.

all products were from amazon, as was stated before.



link to the mount: View: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0851QYQ5Z
that one bothers me a bit, but, i hope it should suffice. it sits on 4 bolts, has integral recoil stops, looks like almost a 'proper' one, so, will see.

 

[paul73]

When manipulating/handling a typical rifle with a trigger guard, you’ll instinctively grab the rifle and your finger will safely find it’s way above the trigger guard while your grip finds its way to the pistol grip. With the cutless guard there was no way to quickly and safely pick up the rifle without either looking or “feeling” the pistol grip and working your other fingers into the guard. It isn’t a concern at the range, but under stress it was a constant worry that i’d grab the rifle and my middle finger would find it’s way to the trigger. Less of a concern if this is the only rifle you use and you’re accustomed to handling it, but try experimenting by picking it up quickly without looking.

you should try one with the front vertical handle as well - in my opinion it is also a 'must have'. and, relatively, cheap. it really changes the way you hold the rifle and helps with the weight as you can press it into the shoulder way firmer.

 

[Grendizer138]

you should try one with the front vertical handle as well - in my opinion it is also a 'must have'. and, relatively, cheap. it really changes the way you hold the rifle and helps with the weight as you can press it into the shoulder way firmer.

I’ll be making the pistol grip conversion for sure. In general I really dislike broomsticks as I don’t like doo-dads protruding from the rifle. Plus, I have the flashlight set up so your thumb finds it effortlessly.

 

[Ron Jablonski]

as of pistol grip - to me it was the very first thing to do, as, i am just used to have my trigger finger in a proper position on the guard, with this guard it is intuitively convenient. feels like a glock now.

anyway, my build is done, and i just went over some minor pain of zeroing all those 3 pieces of optics against a neighbor`s garage. all i could get there was about of 20-25yd distance, so, all that will need to be re-adjusted on the range.

so, primary scope is vortex viper pst2 - amazing.
mount under it - cheap monstrum e series - it sets scope 0.2" higher than aero precision mount and it made quite a difference, so, heck with it. it seems to be solid enough and sits well enough. if it will cause problems - i can replace it later.

the side red dot is a Truglo TG8100B on a 45deg 'Pinty angle rail'. I intended placing vortex venom there but it died right in my arms while zeroing - upon rotation of the R bolt red dot flickered and disappeared. so, tru-glo it is, for now.
i suspect i will take it off completely after initial range tests, i do not think it is needed at all with this 1-6x. just a dead weight. but, works ok and is bright enough in a sunlight.

at the very front is a rechargeable green laser - ADE HG54G, that definitely stays. for now it is zeroed to 25yd via barrel, and then other scopes were set to it.

that little borescope laser i posted about several posts above is a complete garbage. i tried using it initially but it was giving me different readings at every try, so i took rifle apart, reached to it and - well, it is bit smaller than the chamber and moves in it freely, so, is it completely pointless. so, i just did it all old fashion way - via looking through the barrel, which worked fine.

so, hopefully, i will find some time to get to the ranch with this setup and complete zeroing process, and, then, it is is.

if i did not mention is enough before - this new viper pst2 is an amazing glass. at 1x you see whole field nondistorted, no visible barrel distortion, no parallax issues i could detect from 10yds up, feels amazing. great glass.

all products were from amazon, as was stated before.

View attachment 412712

link to the mount: View: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0851QYQ5Z
that one bothers me a bit, but, i hope it should suffice. it sits on 4 bolts, has integral recoil stops, looks like almost a 'proper' one, so, will see.

as of pistol grip - to me it was the very first thing to do, as, i am just used to have my trigger finger in a proper position on the guard, with this guard it is intuitively convenient. feels like a glock now.

anyway, my build is done, and i just went over some minor pain of zeroing all those 3 pieces of optics against a neighbor`s garage. all i could get there was about of 20-25yd distance, so, all that will need to be re-adjusted on the range.

so, primary scope is vortex viper pst2 - amazing.
mount under it - cheap monstrum e series - it sets scope 0.2" higher than aero precision mount and it made quite a difference, so, heck with it. it seems to be solid enough and sits well enough. if it will cause problems - i can replace it later.

the side red dot is a Truglo TG8100B on a 45deg 'Pinty angle rail'. I intended placing vortex venom there but it died right in my arms while zeroing - upon rotation of the R bolt red dot flickered and disappeared. so, tru-glo it is, for now.
i suspect i will take it off completely after initial range tests, i do not think it is needed at all with this 1-6x. just a dead weight. but, works ok and is bright enough in a sunlight.

at the very front is a rechargeable green laser - ADE HG54G, that definitely stays. for now it is zeroed to 25yd via barrel, and then other scopes were set to it.

that little borescope laser i posted about several posts above is a complete garbage. i tried using it initially but it was giving me different readings at every try, so i took rifle apart, reached to it and - well, it is bit smaller than the chamber and moves in it freely, so, is it completely pointless. so, i just did it all old fashion way - via looking through the barrel, which worked fine.

so, hopefully, i will find some time to get to the ranch with this setup and complete zeroing process, and, then, it is is.

if i did not mention is enough before - this new viper pst2 is an amazing glass. at 1x you see whole field nondistorted, no visible barrel distortion, no parallax issues i could detect from 10yds up, feels amazing. great glass.

all products were from amazon, as was stated before.

View attachment 412712

link to the mount: View: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0851QYQ5Z
that one bothers me a bit, but, i hope it should suffice. it sits on 4 bolts, has integral recoil stops, looks like almost a 'proper' one, so, will see.

Sometimes I wish I could zero my rifles against my neighbor's garage, he's an A** hole, lol.

On a serious note, I do like how easy it is to bore sight the X95 by popping open the butt plate and pulling the BCG.

 

[paul73]

On a serious note, I do like how easy it is to bore sight the X95 by popping open the butt plate and pulling the BCG.

yep. a lot about x95 is done right. i like it. hope it will last.

 

[cathouse01]

I’ll be making the pistol grip conversion for sure. In general I really dislike broomsticks as I don’t like doo-dads protruding from the rifle. Plus, I have the flashlight set up so your thumb finds it effortlessly.

If you check out the picture of mine in post #102 you’ll see the original IWI Foregrip Light Holder. It lets you mount a 1in dia. flashlight on the foregrip and allows you to activate it with your thumb at the back of the grip as long as the light is activate by a push button in its back. IWI no longer sells it, but you can still get something similar (e.g.CAA flashlight holder grip adapter , though it was only $29.99 when I bought it from IWI). Here is a pic of just the grip:

 

[Soundwave]

I'm enjoying my angled foregrip. It allows me to push/pull it into my shoulder and is a comfortable angle. May try out a vertical after seeing so many here.

 

[Brewer]

Big fan of the vertical foregrip here.

I use a Surefire X300-U in the furthest-forward picatinny slot, stubby vertical grip, and a Manticore Arms Switch back charging handle. My upright thumb fits into the gap between folded charging handle and light perfectly, so just a little push for momentary on or pivot for constant. Once my NVGs are delivered I'm going to put a DBAL-D2 on top, which I think will put the IR laser/illuminator switch directly above the visible.





Never cared for tape switches. Seem like just one more thing that could go wrong. Maybe some day.

 

[Ron Jablonski]

I'm enjoying my angled foregrip. It allows me to push/pull it into my shoulder and is a comfortable angle. May try out a vertical after seeing so many here.

I tried the fab defense ptk angled foregrip paired with the thumb rest and liked it. I ended up ditching the afg though and just keeping the thumb rest as a more obvious hand stop compared to the one on the bottom rail cover. After experimenting with this as well as a vertical one I came to learn that I really didn't like having any type of foregrip attached, just my personal preference.

 

[mav]

I’ll be making the pistol grip conversion for sure. In general I really dislike broomsticks as I don’t like doo-dads protruding from the rifle. Plus, I have the flashlight set up so your thumb finds it effortlessly.

Most rifle mounted flashlights can use a pressure plate that fits onto the vertical foregrip. I find it super simple and easy to engage/disengage the flashlight with a simple amount of pressure without having to use visual or tactile queues when the rifle is shouldered. The VFG allows the shooter to secure the rifle into the shoulder while maintaining a natural hand position on the grip, provides a strong platform to handle recoil for follow-up shots and has the added bonus of providing waterproof storage for things like batteries. I run them on all my non-DMR platforms. Not everyone's cup of tea and there are many shooters that prefer the hand stops or go for the C clamp rifle grip, of which I am not a fan...

This is similar to my setup with the Tango Down VFG and light/switch:

 

[Chris]

Long thread, but I didn't see it mentioned.

The Tavor is designed around having 6 points of contact.

You have the traditional four:

1) grip
2) foregrip
3) buttstock against shoulder
4) cheek against stock

But then you add:

5) Forearm against handguard
6) forearm against magazine



It does take some getting used to, but when done correctly, it is a very stable and locked in position. Unlike the guy in the first image, the proper way is to pull in tight as shown below. This image is just too small to see how the points of contact are supposed to be.



It's just hard to find images with people bringing in their support elbow to their body. So many return to their more traditional posture which eliminates that added support. It's something you have to practice. I find it feel a lot like the grip I use when I shoot photos with an SLR with my elbows in tight for support.

As with any gun, you need to decide if the ergonomics work for you. But I see far too many people dismiss guns like this and you never see them even try to use it as it was designed.

I have 2 modification on mine that I really like. The Geissele "trigger" pack and the Gearhead Works Flex swivel/ejection port cover.


This cleans up a lot of the factory trigger and is very simple to install. I've tried the actual trigger too, but don't think it was as big a bang for the buck as this drop-in.



This piece does three cool things. 1) it completely seals the unused ejection port, so you don't get any blowback on your face. 2) it adds a very functional single point quick-attach socket where the rifle balances nicely. 3) It really looks FAR nicer than the plastic cover IWI uses.

The other cool feature of a Tavor? It fits very nicely into a Gator keyboard case without any disassembly (other than mag out - although a 20 rounder fits) and does not look like you are toting around a rifle.



It's definitely a concealment case as the butt and muzzle break are tight against the ends, but the sides are padded. (^_^)

 

[paul73]

Long thread, but I didn't see it mentioned.
View attachment 413039

i would partially agree with your point - but above you see a tavor-21, an original one. it has a long section curved at angle to rest along your left arm. note the distance and the angle, and how it goes a bit down from the base of the handle, then up. SAR is similar to that but frame is smaller.

we are here dealing with a tavor x95, not even SAR. it is different.
if you will look at attached image below - you will see the differences made there to a stock grip. i guess it was done to reduce vertical footprint of the rifle, but, i do not find it neither convenient nor practical.
as you in reality grab it at the front serrations section, at the area of front locks - and when grabbed there, you do not rest the frame on your arm, you only get the lower corner of the grip frame pushing close to your elbow. anyway, to each his own.
also, i find it to be much safer using a traditional pistol grip where you cannot run into a trigger grabbing the handle, as you press fingers into a trigger guard.

 

[paul73]

also, this, see at the 5:05 mark specifically to see how left arm de-facto gets positioned with x95 design.
it is not a tavor21 frame, it is different. also addresses the topic of how to attach a sling, and why.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OP5dUz1hsaw

 

[newenglandjeff]

the side red dot is a Truglo TG8100B on a 45deg 'Pinty angle rail'. I intended placing vortex venom there but it died right in my arms while zeroing - upon rotation of the R bolt red dot flickered and disappeared. so, tru-glo it is, for now.
he

Any issues shooting at 45°? I want to do 45° BUIS on my 4X ACOG setup, but I think that brass would be ejecting just a little too close to my eye.

 

[paul73]

Any issues shooting at 45°? I want to do 45° BUIS on my 4X ACOG setup, but I think that brass would be ejecting just a little too close to my eye.

i did not shoot it yet, did not have time, i hope - may be next week tuesday.
handling it and dry firing i find it pretty convenient. just an extra weight, and it is already quite heavy, as is.

i guess having a side red dot there helps mostly folks shooting 3gun competition stuff as they probably set their primary scope to 2-4x - and then they shoot nearby 10-20yd targets with a side red dot that is zeroed to that distance, so nothing needs to be re-set.
if i ever do a 3gun - who knows, i would love to, but it is not in my nearby plans at all - then may be it will prove itself useful.

right now nothing at all prevents me from rotating my primary scope back to 1x. once it is set to 1x - the FOV of the viper is HUGE, and eye relief efficient working distance delta is very comfortable, i can see fine with both eyes open, swing rifle around while slightly moving head back and forth - it is not that such big of an issue to still see through it properly. will see.

so, anyway, right now both scopes and laser - all devices are set to a 25yd distance. the job on the range will be, first, to confirm accuracy of that existing 25yd zeroing, then primary scope will need to be adjusted up to the 100yd bullseye, as it is where it is supposed to be.

then i will see how much off center it will practically be at 25 and 10yd distances using primary scope - based on how high it sits on the tavor x95. if it will prove itself to be more practical keeping red dot, for both speed and accuracy - then, so be it.

as of brass in the eye scenario - i guess you think of shooting from a left shoulder at 45deg? i do not think it would be something common, not for me at least. from a right side, i do not see how you can get hit by a brass. not the same angle, at least on x95. as of a bit of a gas in the eye - may be. i will need to test it all.

that just made me think - why i did not mount that red dot on a left. it would not be conventional, but, on a x95 of how it is - you kinda get a direct line of sight on a left if you will not bring your cheek all the way where it needs to be. anyway, something to try out before taking it off.

 

[paul73]

so, it is going to be an experiment. i moved red dot to the left, and it seems to be usable. this way for sure ejector is way away from the face while looking through red dot.
if primary scope would be sitting on a usual height mount - it would block the line of sight with its left side brightness turret. on this 1.62" mount it`s ok.
and red dot control buttons are now under the left index finger, which is also a plus. interesting, i had never tried mounting that on a left. it should be a reason of why no one does it.

while at it, i decided to improve an original design by a bit of a duct tape, well, an electrical tape, as a gasket between left side ejector heat shield and a plastic insert on the left side.
will see how it will hold up, or melt completely under rapid fire. so far looks it relatively neat - i had to cut tape in the middle and position pieces along the crack, then slide cover back on top of the tape. i hope that an exposed part of the tape inside should melt a bit and get pressed into the crack, from the inside, sealing it. well, will see.


Also, bag arrived. I can confirm that this one - in 32" size, fits my x95 perfectly, scope and all.
View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FNCPXW9

 

[paul73]

damn, i really need to take some days off and just go shoot it, before i end up like this:


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRC1y1xhIkI

 

[xiang zou]

Bought mine at FS in June and first range trip a month later. Current setup:

magpul foregrip
Olight Odin
left hand conversion
eotech 512 with a half inch riser
Geisslee on order but fine with stock trigger

Been shooting Tula steel ammo since it is a long piston and no malfunction but one due to ammo -more details below.

My first detailed strip was pretty bold and end up crashing my charging handle and gas cylinder - yes exactly as they warned us on their official video lol. The customer service was great and shipped the replaced parts and walked me through over the phone. All set and back on game again right after.

Only malfunction was a FTE due to the rim of the steel case chipped when extracting occurred. Easy fix after the field strip.

due to long piston operations, not expecting submoa accuracy out of box and just train my self to hit chest size target in 50-100 yards. Thats all I need.

love it a lot so far

 

[paul73]

Been shooting Tula steel ammo since it is a long piston and no malfunction but one due to ammo -more details below.
..
Only malfunction was a FTE due to the rim of the steel case chipped when extracting occurred. Easy fix after the field strip.

in a first session i went over 30 brass rounds and about 130 steel case tulammo. had, very surprisingly, 3 malfunctions on brass - seemed like a weak cartridge, perhaps, very odd, as it was a relatively expensive $0.70 RUAG AMMOTEC .223 RHTA 51GR.
Then with cheap tula it had 1 fail to eject, and 3 duds with bad primers, but, cycled fine and groups were tight. so, it passed a cheap ammo test with flying colors and i am quite happy about it.

 

[xiang zou]

in a first session i went over 30 brass rounds and about 130 steel case tulammo. had, very surprisingly, 3 malfunctions on brass - seemed like a weak cartridge, perhaps, very odd, as it was a relatively expensive $0.70 RUAG AMMOTEC .223 RHTA 51GR.
Then with cheap tula it had 1 fail to eject, and 3 duds with bad primers, but, cycled fine and groups were tight. so, it passed a cheap ammo test with flying colors and i am quite happy about it.

yah I treated it as an AK...so far close to 500rds steel case nothing wrong...and I did do M193 and M855 - both were hotter and worked flawlessl.