SFC13557
NES Member
I bought one and I took off pistol grip and foregrip group but couldn't figure out how to get the stock charging handle out. I have the owners manual and on pg.68/69 looks like stock one slides out. What am I missing?
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Tavor: who has one or opinion
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cathouse01
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It should have just come out with the foregrip, since it is normally clipped in there. Here’s a video of a guy installing it. The actual installation starts at about 1:40.
SFC13557
NES Member
no-go, the handle stays in the rifle when foregrip is removed.
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you need to tilt the T hammer module away - back - from the way where the handle rests into it. you rotate it back, so it would not be in the way.
it may be pretty stiff new.
i just got to cleaning mine - in may be 10-15 min can post a picture of how it`s done, if you still did not figure it out
There’s a ring mounted to the barrel just in front of the charging handle. It rests in a detent, so it won’t slide forward or backward along the barrel. This ring Tom Alabrando at IWI calls the “hammerhead” due to its shape. It has two circular channels, one for either left or right charging handles, and the stock charging handle has a forward tab that rests it in the hammerhead channel.
From your second photo, slide the forend the rest of the way off, lock the bolt back, let the charging handle rest fully rearward so it disengages from the hammerhead, rotate the hammerhead clockwise a bit (some are loose, others very tight, but it rotates with some persuasion). You can then slide the charging handle past it and drop in the new one. Rotate the hammerhead back to center before reinstalling the forend.
Edit: looks like Paul and I were typing at the same time.
From your second photo, slide the forend the rest of the way off, lock the bolt back, let the charging handle rest fully rearward so it disengages from the hammerhead, rotate the hammerhead clockwise a bit (some are loose, others very tight, but it rotates with some persuasion). You can then slide the charging handle past it and drop in the new one. Rotate the hammerhead back to center before reinstalling the forend.
Edit: looks like Paul and I were typing at the same time.
he cannot rotate it probably - on new tavor it sits crazy stiff, not moving. on videos folks push it by hand, by a finger.
on mine i had to use a lever - screwdriver in it, and push it, and it barely moved. very tight.
on mine i had to use a lever - screwdriver in it, and push it, and it barely moved. very tight.
Yep. I’ve installed the Switchback on four brand-new X95s. There were three stiff and one floppy hammerhead, so my small sampling says most likely stiff as well. But nothing to be concerned about.
I’m a big fan of TangoDown Stubby VFGs.
I’m a big fan of TangoDown Stubby VFGs.
cathouse01
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Learn something new everyday. It appears that my X95 is what Alabrando calls the IDF version since it does not have the “hammerhead". It is one of the earliest offered by IWI US. Now I need to find out why they added it.
Earlier X95 charging handles didn’t lock forward, had no tab to interface with the hammerhead added later. The early ones also lack the forward assist/fulcrum Standard in current models (and the short initial fulcrum movement is pushing against the hammerhead). I think we’re on Gen 4 or so of OEM charging handles.
Thanks, I did some quick reading and it looks good to me. I just ordered one...
1903Collector
NES Member
Sorry if this has been asked. for a south paw do you have to order one in that configuration?
I used to have an MSAR and changing from right to left was as easy as a bolt swap and change over ejection port covers. Is it the same with the Tavor?
I used to have an MSAR and changing from right to left was as easy as a bolt swap and change over ejection port covers. Is it the same with the Tavor?
cathouse01
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Yup, IWI US is on Gen 4 for the charging handle. The older USA X95s shipped with a Gen 2 handle which didn’t use the “hammerhead”. Current ones ship with the Gen 4. For those of us with the Gen 2, the Manticore Switchback is a really good upgrade.
cathouse01
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You need the left hand bolt for the Tavor X95. IWI strongly recommends that you have it done by an IWI, US Certified Armorer since you need to make sure that the new bolt headspaces correctly.
left-hand-conversion
Shevchenko
NES Member
Just picked up an x95 a week or so ago and can't STAND shooting it because of the "tavor face haha", thanks! grabbing this now
cathouse01
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You can also check out this one:
Manticore Arms - Tavor Gasketed Port Cover - X95 Tavor products - Shop By Rifle
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manticorearms.com
You can also check out this one:
Manticore Arms - Tavor Gasketed Port Cover - X95 Tavor products - Shop By Rifle
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Honestly, I went with Gear Head Works over Manticore Arms for the port cover simply because the mythical beast logo engraving offends my desire for clean simplicity. Later realized the GHW also leaves space to laser-engrave something one day.
a sliced in half - along the middle - usual black electrical tape does solve the problem just fine.
i posted the picture somewhere above. it works.
slide out the plastic cover. holding the metal heat shield from other side put the tape to cover the edges. slide plastic cover back. job done.
if too much of a tape is visible along the edges - trim the excess.
a black gorilla tape would probably be even better. i did now almost 500 rounds on it, i think - no issues with gases into face at all, and i shoot with a 1-6x scope, so, a nose is right next the that vent.
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Is this what I need to raise my EOTech 512 up .5 inch? I'm not familar with all the terminology and options. It seems there is a short and long version, will the short one work? Or something other recomendation? Leapers UTG Super Slim Picatinny Riser Mount Up to 29% Off — 8 models
Am I the only one that likes the smell of burnt powder?
Shevchenko
NES Member
I don't necessarily dislike it, I'd just prefer it to not be blasted directly up my nostrils every shot haha
you may still need to do what i posted above with the adapter you got - i saw some reviews stating that its gasket is not covering the whole port.
if it does - good, if not - use some gorilla tape to cover the gap.
Shevchenko
NES Member
Sounds good, I'll keep that in mind! thanks
DarthRevan
NES Member
You’re right handed? If so you’re going to have one hell of a time rotating the gun into you and still being able to see the dot, and be accurate with it. Unless you’re lefty like me, you should have the dot on the other side.so, it is going to be an experiment. i moved red dot to the left, and it seems to be usable. this way for sure ejector is way away from the face while looking through red dot.
if primary scope would be sitting on a usual height mount - it would block the line of sight with its left side brightness turret. on this 1.62" mount it`s ok.
and red dot control buttons are now under the left index finger, which is also a plus. interesting, i had never tried mounting that on a left. it should be a reason of why no one does it.
while at it, i decided to improve an original design by a bit of a duct tape, well, an electrical tape, as a gasket between left side ejector heat shield and a plastic insert on the left side.
will see how it will hold up, or melt completely under rapid fire. so far looks it relatively neat - i had to cut tape in the middle and position pieces along the crack, then slide cover back on top of the tape. i hope that an exposed part of the tape inside should melt a bit and get pressed into the crack, from the inside, sealing it. well, will see.
View attachment 413486
Also, bag arrived. I can confirm that this one - in 32" size, fits my x95 perfectly, scope and all.
View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FNCPXW9
DarthRevan
NES Member
Left handed is the better model to get than futzing with a conversion kit.
If you guys are hell bent installing a gasket on the Non-ejection side, why not use RTV silicon?
Shevchenko
NES Member
I have some black gorilla tape, if I notice the gasses are still bad with this gasket I'll def remove the plate and put some tape on her, thanks for the suggestion!
make sure to put tape over the edges to cover visible gaps and keep pressing metal heat shield in through the right ejection port.
the idea, again, is to put tape over the edges but not to block those guides where the plastic cover slides in.
or, in case of an adapter it may be easier if it bolts on. gorilla sticks better and longevity wise should be better, but, a usual plastic black electrical tape lasts same well. i was afraid it will burn through - but, no. holds up just fine and is pretty much invisible.
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I don't know what I'm doing wrong here? The TangoDown stubby grip is here but I can't figure out to install it. It says "Fits all MIL-STD 1913 Picatinny Rails" but I don't see how it will physically fit on the rail? I thought the X95 has all "Picatinny Rails" or do I need some kind of mount?
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