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CMP Rack Grade Carbine = Dissapointment

FireMedic102

FireMedic102

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Just opened the box to my CMP Inland Carbine (Rack Grade) and I am highly unimpressed. I knew from the start the wood could be rough, but this stock is just plain hideous. Also, the top hand guard seems loose, and is of a total other type of wood that does not appear even finished. Before anyone says anything, yes I know the rack grades are the bottom of the barrel as far as CMP rifles go, but I have seen some on here that look much better than mine. The pictures do not do justice to how bad the stock actually looks in person.

InlandCarbine001.jpg


InlandCarbine003.jpg
 
That sucks. Thanks for the post; I've contemplated CMP purchases before. If you don't mind me asking what was the price?

Generally people are all upset with those that refinish surplus rifles but I say this one could be tastefully refinished.
 
Rack Grades carbine cost from $419 to $575 depending on brand. A service grade Bavaria-marked Carbine is $650.

As you say, Rack Grade is the bottom of the barrel, but if you feel the condition of the wood was misrepresented relative to the description, they will make good on it.

The standard is

Rack Grade Carbines have been refinished and rebuilt at least once and will exhibit in most cases varying degrees of wear on many parts. All the carbines have late features such as, adjustable sights (heavily staked) with bayonet lug bands and rotary safeties. Metal parts are mixed USGI. There are no carbines with early features. All are mechanically sound with good headspace. Bores will have some heavy pitting and exterior finish may show significant wear and some surface pitting. Muzzle will gauge over a three (3) on gauge. All of the carbines we have are returns from one of several countries and may have USGI walnut, birch, or other foreign replacement wood. Stocks may be M2 type pot belly. Wood may have seen heavy use, may or may not have original cartouches and may have foreign markings. Wood is sound, but will have dings, dents, gouges and cracks that do not affect the function of the carbine. Metal may have some foreign markings. Carbines in this grade show considerably more use and wear than the service grade.
Click to expand...

How is the barrel? If you got one that is good mechanically but just needs new wood, you've done well. Some of the rifles that look better may have barrels that need replacement or other fucntional problems.

Sometimes gouges can be steamed out. Refinishing that stock would make it look a lot better.
 
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Well I am only seeing one crack, and it appears minor and is on the hand guard. I can probably refinish the wood, it is just something I have never done before. The price was $419. I wanted a service grade but they were all sold out.
 
Let them know your disappointment and they *should* be able to swap it for another. Either that, or it makes a great project to refinish on the relative cheap side
 
How's the general appearance of the metal, other than the barrel? Rust, pitting, scratches, etc. Refinishing the wood is really simple, so as long as the metal parts are sound I'd say you've got yourself a great rifle at a great price. The bright side is that you can't really make the stock look worse, so you shouldn't feel apprehensive about trying a DIY refinishing job. Feel free to PM me if you have questions about it.
 
Marcus5aurelius said:
Let them know your disappointment and they *should* be able to swap it for another. Either that, or it makes a great project to refinish on the relative cheap side
Click to expand...
I would take a $419 Carbine with a good barrel over one with cosmetically nice wood and a worn barrel anyday.

So I wouldn't be in a rush to send it back. A brand-new Birch stock is $30 without metal from Fulton Armory and a new Walnut stock is $90. Numrich has new manufacture stocks sets for $140 and you can buy a Choate synthetic pistol grip stock with ventilated handguard for a little over $100 and be all tacti-cool.

Shoot it, refinish it.
 
TA77 said:
Now that you mention it, the metal seems pretty good, the barrel is solid although I am not sure what the wear is.
Click to expand...

I would definitely jump to refinish the stock then and not worry about it, the metal is all that really matters. I'm currently refinishing one of my own, let me know if you have any questions although it's a pretty straight forward process
 
Here are pics of the metal, a little worn as to be expected for an old rifle, but overall it all seems solid. The parts of the metal that are exposed (barrel, top of reciever) look good.

InlandCarbine005.jpg


InlandCarbine004.jpg
 
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As long as the barrel itself is in relatively good shape, I think the rest is in pretty good overall. Just my $.02 though. I hope whatever route you choose works out for you
 
When I was asking around the club about CMP rifles before I purchased I was told this more than once. If you are thinking of getting less than a service grade you might consider a road trip to hand pick your own rack or field grades. I was close to doing just that. Instead I oppted for a SG. Carbines where not available when I ordered my garand.
I agree with thew post above if the barrel is decent, clean it up refinish the stock or buy a new stock.
 
If you go to a gun show, you might find a dealer with USGI replacement stocks. I got a honey of a USGI replacement for very short money which fit much better than the POS commerical replacement the previous owner put on.

Mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil are what I used on my stock and it looks great [grin]
 
Definitely the worst stock I've ever seen from the CMP, but like everyone has mentioned, the metal is what counts. Barrel is more important - clean it well, then shine a bore light down there and see if it's smooth & shiney. Otherwise, you have lots of options to replace the stock.

Grand scheme of things, you can buy a minty replacement stock and still have an awesome rifle for under $500.
 
Can't really see all the details on that stock; however, I have yet to get one from CMP that I could not work with .... think that stock will clean-up nicely with some TLC ... as others have stated, the barrel and metal are the important parts ... looks like you got one with little or no pitting below the woodline -- excellent!
 
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The inside of the barrel looks good, the grooves appear to be in great shape. Now I just need to decide on the stock. I am considering refinishing it, but there is pitting, so I am not sure. None of the stock sets seem to come with hand guards. Fulton armory sells a Birch stock set for only 30 dollars but the only hand guard they offer is walnut, so I am guessing they won't match. I wish CMP offered the stock sets like they do for the garand.
 
The Boyd's is thicker and bulkier than the standard USGI and you'll likely have to modify it so that the mag release works properly.

I would just refinish that stock. Get a couple sheets of sandpaper of varying grits (80 to up to about 400-600). Use Formby's furniture refinisher to strip most or all of the finish away from the wood. Then start sanding, following the grain of the wood (back to front) with the roughest grit until all major dings are gone or reduced. Continue with successively finer grits until you have a relatively smooth, prepared stock surface. I then stain with an appropriate shade of Miniwax wood stain and then finish it with a few coats of BLO. It'll take a few days because you want the stock to dry between staining and between each coat of BLO, but it'll come out nice - well-finished and smooth yet with enough character remaining to make it clear that this rifle is a combat veteran.
 
TA77 said:
Do you have any experience with the Fulton armory stocks? Sounds look it is a good deal. Do you know if it includes a hand guard or if they need finishing?
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Fulton sells the stock and hand guard separately. They do not come with metal and are unfinished. Haven't tried one.

I'd look on a place like jouster.com or milsurpshooters and see what folks like.
 
vellnueve said:
..I would just refinish that stock. Get a couple sheets of sandpaper of varying grits (80 to up to about 400-600). Use Formby's furniture refinisher to strip most or all of the finish away from the wood. Then start sanding, following the grain of the wood (back to front) with the roughest grit until all major dings are gone or reduced. Continue with successively finer grits until you have a relatively smooth, prepared stock surface. I then stain with an appropriate shade of Miniwax wood stain and then finish it with a few coats of BLO. It'll take a few days because you want the stock to dry between staining and between each coat of BLO, but it'll come out nice - well-finished and smooth yet with enough character remaining to make it clear that this rifle is a combat veteran.
Click to expand...

I would hold off on the sandpaper .... until you have had a chance to see what is under all that current finish and stain ... just take some mineral spirits and/or denatured alchol and a soft cloth and do some rubbing ... hate to see you sand off some makers marks and/or stamps ....
 
captain-03 said:
I would hold off on the sandpaper .... until you have had a chance to see what is under all that current finish and stain ... just take some mineral spirits and/or denatured alchol and a soft cloth and do some rubbing ... hate to see you sand off some makers marks and/or stamps ....
Click to expand...

I did the sanding and still managed to preserve what faint marks remained. These rifles have been refinished and rebuilt at least once, possibly more times... and the one in the OP's picture needs a real good refinishing job.
 
My impression of CMP stuff - especially once you get down into the Rack grade rifles - is that they try to give you a good deal for your money. For instance on your carbine - where the wood looks pretty harsh, they would give you a rifle with decent metal and better numbers on the muzzle.

Check the CMP forums - there are usually a lot of posts there about refinishing the wood . A lot of guys use the "dishwasher method" .

Also check the Fulton Armory site - I know somewhere on there - there is a page about refinishing wooden stocks ( the recommend against the dishwasher method).
 

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