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CMP Rack Grade Carbine = Dissapointment
- Thread starter FireMedic102
- Start date
After stripping down all the finish, and cleaning and light sanding the wood looked ok. I have put 2 coats of mineral oil on, and it is starting to look GREAT. Thanks to everyone who helped me. I want to get a few more coats on there and let it really sink in. I will be sure to post pics when it is done.
+1 good stuffConsider this. It's what's recommended by the CMP for refinishing stocks.
Hey, hey!! Great news .... I could understand your disappointment pulling this one from the shipping box ---- now however, look what you have been able to do!!
Consider this. It's what's recommended by the CMP for refinishing stocks.
I like this better. Its 100% tung oil whereas the Minwax stuff isn't
Consider this. It's what's recommended by the CMP for refinishing stocks.
+1
I used it on my WASR-10 and it came out great. These photos don't do it justice but it's a nice satin finish.
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/showthread.php/87576-WTS-WASR-10-AK-Ammo-price-drop
The original finish was a blend of solvents and "China Wood Oil." The commercial blends penetrate and coat better.I like this better. Its 100% tung oil whereas the Minwax stuff isn't
GI's also used a blend of Beeswax, Tung, and mineral spirits: easy to apply finish that's reasonably durable and doesn't shine.
Thanks for the info. Pure tung is shiny and I suppose you wouldn't want a shiny stock alerting the hoards of Germany as to your position
This is it, I may do another coat or two of mineral oil. I also want to get a pic of it outside in the sunlight after I add the sling, but this gives you an idea. I stripped the finish down to bare wood, lightly sanded rough spots, and applied 6 or 7 coats of mineral oil.
If it doesn't come out how you want, sand it down and do it again!
Heck, I saw your first try just now, and it looks pretty good so far. I say do some tung oil and maybe a tung/linseed blend, and try that. It is definitely heading in the right direction!
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Not as bad as you thought is it. Also you have to remember that CMP has been swamped with orders since Obama was elected. Rack grade is just that. The handgurads have a tendency to be loose. You could pick up a stock from Boyds or it appears you have a pretty good looking stock.
It doesn't have import marks like ALL of the others you find being sold by big national dealers. Or you could pay well over $700 at a show and get a piece of junk. I know when you first opened the box it must have hit you like a brick but it now looks very nice.
Also a great finish to use is Tung oil and mineral spirits mixed. Don't use a great deal and you will be very impressed.
It doesn't have import marks like ALL of the others you find being sold by big national dealers. Or you could pay well over $700 at a show and get a piece of junk. I know when you first opened the box it must have hit you like a brick but it now looks very nice.
Also a great finish to use is Tung oil and mineral spirits mixed. Don't use a great deal and you will be very impressed.
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http://home.att.net/~RA-Carbines/parts1.html cant sleep came across this web site,,,,,,,ok look through it. now try to build one for what you paid. Yikes.
PS sometimes you just got to get some of the crud off......looking good.
PS sometimes you just got to get some of the crud off......looking good.
mineral oil is not really a sealant, but a solvent. It will actually remve any finish you put it on.
You need to coat it with several coats of boiled linseed oil or tung oil to get the proper finish, seal and preservative action on the stock.
You need to coat it with several coats of boiled linseed oil or tung oil to get the proper finish, seal and preservative action on the stock.
After a lot of work I got a diamond in the rough. I stripped the stock down to bare wood, coated it with several coats of mineral oil and several coats of tung oil. There may be a better way, this was my first one and I just winged it, but I am happy with the results.
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Awesome job!!!!!!! You turned an ugly duckling into a real looker now you should be proud of your hard work.
I wash the oily/greasy stocks with Murphy's Wood Soap. I use it right out of the bottle and let it soak so the oil comes out of the wood grain. It may take many times to get it much cleaner than it first was. I also use a piece of coarse steelwool at this time to remove the layer of soft finish/ wood at this time too. Do not rinse it with water between washings or when your done just dry it with paper towels. Then let it air dry for a few days before doing more work on it.
If you sand the wood stocks you need to go from a coarse paper to a fine paper this way it lessens the visiable sanding marks. Then i go over the stock with a coarse steelwool. Then i pick a Belhen Solar Lux stain to match the orginal color. Between coats of stain its the fine steelwool (0000). Once the color i want matches the orginal color its the tung oil next. Between the coats of tung oil its the 0000 steelwool rub again to keep the stocks finish smooth. The main thing if we have to refinish we have to do it right. I like seeing it with no sanding marks and the right color wood stain it brings out the wood grain in the stock with the tung oil finish too. On the last coat of tung oil i buff it with 0000 steelwool to smooth it out and remove any imperfections in the finish. You can them leave it alone or wax it with johnsons wood paste wax.
I wash the oily/greasy stocks with Murphy's Wood Soap. I use it right out of the bottle and let it soak so the oil comes out of the wood grain. It may take many times to get it much cleaner than it first was. I also use a piece of coarse steelwool at this time to remove the layer of soft finish/ wood at this time too. Do not rinse it with water between washings or when your done just dry it with paper towels. Then let it air dry for a few days before doing more work on it.
If you sand the wood stocks you need to go from a coarse paper to a fine paper this way it lessens the visiable sanding marks. Then i go over the stock with a coarse steelwool. Then i pick a Belhen Solar Lux stain to match the orginal color. Between coats of stain its the fine steelwool (0000). Once the color i want matches the orginal color its the tung oil next. Between the coats of tung oil its the 0000 steelwool rub again to keep the stocks finish smooth. The main thing if we have to refinish we have to do it right. I like seeing it with no sanding marks and the right color wood stain it brings out the wood grain in the stock with the tung oil finish too. On the last coat of tung oil i buff it with 0000 steelwool to smooth it out and remove any imperfections in the finish. You can them leave it alone or wax it with johnsons wood paste wax.
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The metal looks good in the picture.From what I can see. If the bore is decent and it functions mechanically you have no problems. That stock would clean up quite nicely. On those rifles that have a heavy finish on them, like varnish, or shellac, or something of the sort I use a fairly stout, sharp knife and scrape the finish off. After I scrape as much as I can I lightly sand and wash down between sandings with a 50/50 mix of De-natured alcohol and mineral spirits. Then finish with tung oil. I like that better than linseed oil because it has less tendency to yellow over time and is less spontaneously combustible on the cloths I use to apply it.
