Taurus Titanium vs. S&W 342/642/637/337

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Taurus 38 Special+P Snub nose 2" ported
Taurus Titanium
Matte Stainless 5 Round 38 Special+P w/2" Ported Barrel/Fixed Sights
Ultra fast...ultra reliable...ultra lightweight 13oz

How does the above compare with a S&W 342/642/637/337?

Considering a small, light revolver. Also, how about any comparable offering by Charter?

This could be new or used. Sometimes it isn't much more to just go new, right?


EDIT: Oh, the important part: Does anybody have photos of these for comparison?
Thanks.
 
It's a Taurus, that's all that needs to be said.

I'd take a broken S+W over a functioning taurus. At least I know when I drop the S+W off in springfield, and get it back, I'll have a decent gun. The Taurus will still probably be a POS when it comes back...

ETA: Go to 0:15 for the real action..

 
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Interesting you put that up drgrant.

I've heard and read horror stories about Taurus historically, but their more recent stuff seems to be ok, at least from my experiences.

Between my father and myself, we own a PT1911 in Stainless, a PT24/7 Pro Compact 2 tone, and a PT709 Slim. We've put quite a few rounds through each, and all have functioned very well save for a couple FTF's due to shitty ammo...
 
Interesting you put that up drgrant.

I've heard and read horror stories about Taurus historically, but their more recent stuff seems to be ok, at least from my experiences.

Between my father and myself, we own a PT1911 in Stainless, a PT24/7 Pro Compact 2 tone, and a PT709 Slim. We've put quite a few rounds through each, and all have functioned very well save for a couple FTF's due to shitty ammo...

If you don't believe that it's junk, just ask Timber about his (now crushed and charred) Taurus 1911. [rofl]

Some of their little polymer framed autos are "okay" for what they are- eg, they're better than junkers like hi points, etc. I actually -almost- bought a PT111, but when the guys in the shop I was at took it apart and couldn't get it back together (and these are guys that know guns) I knew it was a gun best avoided.

The PT92s are also usually decent, but I would hope so, considering it's more or less a 95% ripoff of a Beretta 92.

If I was going to make a WAG the designs are probably fundamentally OK but their quality control is poor. Tales of Judge revolvers with charge holes that aren't properly done, etc, abound. (EG, like 4 out of 5 will be reamed properly or whatever).

-Mike
 
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The Charter guns have gone through some QC issues in previous years (especially those marked CHARCO). From what I've read, the earlier ones (38 undercovers) are ok for a cheap, light, compact carry gun. They do not handle hot loads (at least the early ones). The S&W's are clearly better but you will pay more. Not sure how the newer models are rated.

Here is some more information: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=396963
 
I see a Charter "Gunblaster" edition. 53838 Gunblaster 38

I wonder if we could get them to do an NES version.



The Charter guns have gone through some QC issues in previous years (especially those marked CHARCO). From what I've read, the earlier ones (38 undercovers) are ok for a cheap, light, compact carry gun. They do not handle hot loads (at least the early ones). The S&W's are clearly better but you will pay more. Not sure how the newer models are rated.

Here is some more information: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=396963

This article is dated 2008. I imagine the products, processes, and company have changed a bit since then.
 
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How does the above compare with a S&W 342/642/637/337?

Considering a small, light revolver. Also, how about any comparable offering by Charter?


It is my opinion that there is no comparison. Go with the S&W. You will be happy that you did.

Other opinions may vary. I would compare Ruger to S&W, but not Taurus or Charter Arms.
 
Does Ruger make a titanium or aluminum "lightweight model"?

With the S&W, is there any rhyme or reason to their naming? Which ones are made of aluminum or titanium? Which have hammers/bobbed hammers/enclosed hammers? How do the names and model numbers match up?
 
Ruger makes an 18oz 38 +p, the Ruger LCR.

Great gun, should be able to find one for $400.

I would def trust my life to mine.

Not a charter/taurus though, it's like carrying a Jennings.
 
Does Ruger make a titanium or aluminum "lightweight model"?

With the S&W, is there any rhyme or reason to their naming? Which ones are made of aluminum or titanium? Which have hammers/bobbed hammers/enclosed hammers? How do the names and model numbers match up?

The 442/642 is the 1 7/8ths 38 spl
The 638 is a 4" k frame aluminum
the 340 is the 357 with shrouded hammer
the 360 is the 357 with hammer
the 329pd is the titanium n-frame 44 mag (my next purchase)
then there's the 327 night gaurd, .357 8 shot

Those are the only ones I know off the top of my head.
 
Does Ruger make a titanium or aluminum "lightweight model"?

With the S&W, is there any rhyme or reason to their naming? Which ones are made of aluminum or titanium? Which have hammers/bobbed hammers/enclosed hammers? How do the names and model numbers match up?

I purchased this book, on the recommendation of folks here, and it does a good job of laying out the S&W models, S/N's, options etc..

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/089689293X/ref=oss_product

It was published in 2007 and does not cover recent models.
 
I tried the LCR a few weeks ago when someone at the range let me have a shot.

It was OK, but I didn't like the way the cylinder sort of speeds up or stacks up as it comes around. It was like you are trying to anticipate exactly when it will click and light off. Maybe that is just the nature of Ruger's DAO setup, but I didn't care much for it. If memory serves right, that is a plastic gun, right? I was looking for something in preferably titanium, and maybe aluminum. Thanks.
 
The LCR is polymer lower and aluminum upper.

The LCR does stack funny, but with some range time it's a snap.

I like the trigger better than the smith, but Riger doesn't have a 13oz .357.
 
Ruger makes an 18oz 38 +p, the Ruger LCR.

Great gun, should be able to find one for $400.

I would def trust my life to mine.

Not a charter/taurus though, it's like carrying a Jennings.

This.

I had an LCR and it was an awesome little gun, Didn't carry it enough to justify keeping it around though.

-Mike
 
I think I found something I really like:

163074_01_md.jpg


Model M&P360 in .357 made of Scandium/Titanium/Alloy/Steel

It is still all black, so still has that classic look. All it needs is some nice wood grips, and a price of $300.
 
The only difference is the color.

442 is black, 642 is a matte aluminum of sorts.

-Mike
 
Where? Did you get it? Any more? How does that differ from the 442/642? Anybody else think there are too many different models?
 
Where? Did you get it? Any more? How does that differ from the 442/642? Anybody else think there are too many different models?

Variety is a good thing. And people are all requesting different models that aren't even made. The 637 is different from the 442/642 because it has a fully exposed hammer. The 442/642 hammer is fully enclosed to prevent snagging and can only be shot DAO. The 637 can be shot double or single action, like a regular revolver. It looks like there's also a 437 which seems to be more rare. The only difference between the first number being a 6 or a 4 in the model for these is the finish. 6 is the stainless finish, 4 is the carbon/blued/black, not sure what the name for it really is.
 
I've known personally, two people whose brand new snubby Taurus's have locked up solid within one box.

One locked up on the third round. I was there. I had to take the gun home loaded and take it apparat to free up the lockwork.

He wanted nothing to do with the gun The dealer, North Cove Took the gun back and gave him his money back. They were great because once fixed, the gun would have to be sold as used, for a loss.

Also, the S&W is lighter because the frame is aluminum (actually an Al, Sc alloy, that is 99% Al. It doesn't take much Sc to make Al much much tougher) and only the cylinder is Ti. The barrel is also Al with a pressed in stainless steel liner.

People seem to forget that Ti is 60% heavier than Al for a given volume. So since S&W can make a frame out of Al, the use of Ti in the frame is purely marketing fluff.

Its like a Ti framed 1911. Just plain stupid. If you want light, get Al. If you want heavy, get steel.

Don
 
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