Simple Saiga Conversion 7.62x39 (Warning Pic Heavy)

SKS Ray said:
It breaks down the same as the original finish.

Its all in the prep when it comes to paint. You have to rough up the area and get it clean first if you want any adhesion.
Click to expand...

I mean on the actualy part itself (my bullet guide is being deformed)
 
I thought that I read on one of the sites that sells the bullet guides, maybe Dinzag, that the bullet guide is supposed to wear down as it breaks in. I thought they said that it was supposed to feed better after it has worn in.

My latest Saiga feeds FMJ ammo from standard AK mags without a bullet guide. Soft points and hollow points do not feed. I think there is probably more material in the bullet guide than it needs, and it could wear down quite a bit and still function.


Edit: Here is the install guide from Dinzag. See the last line on the sheet.

http://www.dinzagarms.com/downloads/bg_install.pdf
 
Dench said:
I mean on the actualy part itself (my bullet guide is being deformed)
Click to expand...


I never bothered to spray any internal parts on my builds but I imagine any coating on a bullet guide will wear off with repeated contact from rounds hitting it.

As far as any deformation, normal wear of the edge is expected. Any serious wear should only happen if its came loose or was installed to far into the mag well area.
 
Any tips for tightening up upper and lower hand guard wood? The upper will practically spin around. The lower has a lot of play. I'm sure I could rig something up. I'd like to hear how you guys fix em.
 
Some gas tubes and handguard combinations just don't work well. You can tweak the edges of the metal on the gas tube where they make contact with the handguard but sometimes its better to try another one or a different handguard.

As for the lower... what kind of retainer are you using?
 
Canndo said:
Any tips for tightening up upper and lower hand guard wood? The upper will practically spin around. The lower has a lot of play. I'm sure I could rig something up. I'd like to hear how you guys fix em.
Click to expand...
i used the upper hg tension spring from css. works the balls.

http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-1069/AK-UPPER-HAND-GUARD/Detail

as for the lower, well that spring sucked. i got pissed off and left the garage but my husband mickey moused something to tighten up the fit. it worked so well that i can't take it apart to tell you what he did........
 
SKS Ray said:
Some gas tubes and handguard combinations just don't work well. You can tweak the edges of the metal on the gas tube where they make contact with the handguard but sometimes its better to try another one or a different handguard.

As for the lower... what kind of retainer are you using?
Click to expand...
Hey Ray. First off, congrats on going "blue". Just noticed that. The lower retainer is from CSS. Basically a 2 piece bracket clamp with an Allen set screw on top. Pulled it towards the lower (with a great deal of pressure) at the same time tightening the bracket clamps. Not crazy loose but could be tighter. The upper is on a new Russian gas tube from Kvar. That's pretty damn loose.
 
Canndo said:
The description says removes up and down play. Mine will fully spin. How loose was yours?
Click to expand...

if you noticed how the hg went on, it goes on upside down then it spins on. the spring seats into a cutout in the hg and forces it upward (when it is spun into it's proper position) removing any play in the fit. my hg was very loose pre spring. after i installed the spring it went on tight and won't move unless i force it to. i am pretty sure you bought the same furniture that i did so the upper hg should have the cutout for the spring already in it (look in the middle on the inside, you should see a recessed area where the spring will fit). hope this helps.
 
lancecolonel said:
if you noticed how the hg went on, it goes on upside down then it spins on. the spring seats into a cutout in the hg and forces it upward (when it is spun into it's proper position) removing any play in the fit. my hg was very loose pre spring. after i installed the spring it went on tight and won't move unless i force it to. i am pretty sure you bought the same furniture that i did so the upper hg should have the cutout for the spring already in it (look in the middle on the inside, you should see a recessed area where the spring will fit). hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Yeah I remember the cutout. And, now that I think of it, I do recall seeing that spring when I was ordering everything. I hate doing s**t twice. Looks like another order for CSS. Thank you. +1
 
Canndo said:
Hey Ray. First off, congrats on going "blue". Just noticed that. The lower retainer is from CSS. Basically a 2 piece bracket clamp with an Allen set screw on top. Pulled it towards the lower (with a great deal of pressure) at the same time tightening the bracket clamps. Not crazy loose but could be tighter. The upper is on a new Russian gas tube from Kvar. That's pretty damn loose.
Click to expand...

I had a K Var synthetic set that would spin with ease on a gas tube I got from Brian at Dinzag. Some fit tight, some just fit sloppy. Its not gonna go anywhere when its mounted and on the rifle but its enough to bug you. Like mentioned you can try the spring style hardware.

As for the LHG... did you dimple the top of the barrel after mounting the set screw on the retainer? If not re-instal so everything is tight, mark the spot on top of the barrel where the set screw goes, remove the retainer and drill a very shallow dimple in the barrel so the set screw has something to dig into when you re-instal the clamp.
 
SKS Ray said:
I had a K Var synthetic set that would spin with ease on a gas tube I got from Brian at Dinzag. Some fit tight, some just fit sloppy. Its not gonna go anywhere when its mounted and on the rifle but its enough to bug you. Like mentioned you can try the spring style hardware.

As for the LHG... did you dimple the top of the barrel after mounting the set screw on the retainer? If not re-instal so everything is tight, mark the spot on top of the barrel where the set screw goes, remove the retainer and drill a very shallow dimple in the barrel so the set screw has something to dig into when you re-instal the clamp.
Click to expand...

I did dimple the barrel. Maybe the dimple was slightly forward a tad because I did tighten that set screw 1st. Then I tightened the 2 allen screws on either side. The dimple may have pulled the bracket forward just enough to make it loose. I'll look at it later. Thanks
 
I had to shim my Timbersmith stock set, both on the LHG and the buttstock. I have a sheet of zinc left over from a kids science project, and I just snip out little squares whenever I need to shim a stock.

I'm pretty sure that the Timbersmith set came with a bunch of little shims as well.
 
No shims in my set. That was my first thought though. And still an option. It's a very minor problem. I just wanted to see how you guys are dealing with the issue. Thank you
 
I have a question about this conversion. Did you use rivets on the relocated trigger guard?
I'm looking at this conversion on several sites and the hang up I'm having is on the riveting.
AK builder has a trigger guard rivet jig but I still need a press. Is the HF 6-ton bench press going to do the trick? [thinking]
 
quietman said:
I have a question about this conversion. Did you use rivets on the relocated trigger guard?
I'm looking at this conversion on several sites and the hang up I'm having is on the riveting.
AK builder has a trigger guard rivet jig but I still need a press. Is the HF 6-ton bench press going to do the trick? [thinking]
Click to expand...

I used screw and nuts on mine, FYI.
 
The easiest and most common conversion is done by trimming the extra tab off the original trigger guard and tucking one end of it under the mag catch. Then using a hole already in the receiver for a small screw and nut.

The pistol grip hides everything.
 
20110813211442.jpg


Here is a pic of a common re-use of the trigger guard

and another

100_1544.jpg



FWIW... I don't punch punch out the rest of the rivet shown in the pic but instead usually sand it smooth with sandpaper and an angled die grinder. Less holes in the receiver makes for a cleaner look. Just a preference of mine.
 
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SKS Ray said:
The easiest and most common conversion is done by trimming the extra tab off the original trigger guard and tucking one end of it under the mag catch. Then using a hole already in the receiver for a small screw and nut.

The pistol grip hides everything.
Click to expand...
+1 to Ray on this tip. This is what he advised me to do. Works like a charm
 
Another question about the Saiga conversion.

One of the parts listed has been back ordered for some time now: k-var corporation
1 AK-080R Gas Tube Assembly, Standard, Russian $39.99

I have found other gas tube assemblies online but I wasn't sure about compatibility. Any advice as to what might be a good replacement?
 
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