Opinions wanted. How shiny is too shiny?

[BaldAssCat]

My first rifle is a higher end Mossberg 46b. My dad got it for me for $20 when I was 15. It has pine inlays in the stock, decent sights and a not too bad scope. When I got it the inlays were pretty beat up and I didn't improve them while out plinking. Otherwise it was in pretty good shape, until I forgot it was in the trunk of my car when I went to the sandbox for a year. I stripped it after that and did an ok job with some cold blue and that's where it stood for 30 years.

This winter my son tore some pine flooring out that had grain matching the inlays so I decided to fix the inlays and refinish the stock. That's coming along but making compass inlays that fit the existing cutout without changing the cut out is a really slow process and after a month I have one done, seven to go.

Since I'm putting all this work into the stock I figured I get a new coat on the metal to match. I've done rust and cold blue and learned not to polish it too much or it doesn't take to the metal well. I've never had anything hot blued but I understand I can shine it up as much as I want.

So the question is, on an older rifle how shiny should it be? Do I go for the out of the box look or do I put a good layer of lipstick on the pig?

 

[Broc]

So the question is, on an older rifle how shiny should it be? Do I go for the out of the box look or do I put a good layer of lipstick on the pig?

Whatever you like. It is your rifle.

 

[BOOTKNIFEFAN]

Whatever you like. It is your rifle.

My first rifle is a higher end Mossberg 46b. My dad got it for me for $20 when I was 15. It has pine inlays in the stock, decent sights and a not too bad scope. When I got it the inlays were pretty beat up and I didn't improve them while out plinking. Otherwise it was in pretty good shape, until I forgot it was in the trunk of my car when I went to the sandbox for a year. I stripped it after that and did an ok job with some cold blue and that's where it stood for 30 years.

This winter my son tore some pine flooring out that had grain matching the inlays so I decided to fix the inlays and refinish the stock. That's coming along but making compass inlays that fit the existing cutout without changing the cut out is a really slow process and after a month I have one done, seven to go.

Since I'm putting all this work into the stock I figured I get a new coat on the metal to match. I've done rust and cold blue and learned not to polish it too much or it doesn't take to the metal well. I've never had anything hot blued but I understand I can shine it up as much as I want.

So the question is, on an older rifle how shiny should it be? Do I go for the out of the box look or do I put a good layer of lipstick on the pig?

If the rifle is accurate and reliable, I wouldn't worry to much about it. Cold blue should be fine.

 

[BaldAssCat]

Whatever you like. It is your rifle.

I don't know what I'd like, that's why I'm coming to the NES brain trust. There's no shortage of opinions here the I know of.

 

[Broc]

I don't know what I'd like, that's why I'm coming to the NES brain trust. There's no shortage of opinions here the I know of.

A rifle with nice wood needs to be shiny.

 

[Drix]

Generally there's two rules on restoration, you either restore it to how you remember it, or you restore it to no better than like new.

Which way you go on that is up to you.

 

[FPrice]

Whatever you like. It is your rifle.

Bingo.

 

[mac1911]

My first rifle is a higher end Mossberg 46b. My dad got it for me for $20 when I was 15. It has pine inlays in the stock, decent sights and a not too bad scope. When I got it the inlays were pretty beat up and I didn't improve them while out plinking. Otherwise it was in pretty good shape, until I forgot it was in the trunk of my car when I went to the sandbox for a year. I stripped it after that and did an ok job with some cold blue and that's where it stood for 30 years.

This winter my son tore some pine flooring out that had grain matching the inlays so I decided to fix the inlays and refinish the stock. That's coming along but making compass inlays that fit the existing cutout without changing the cut out is a really slow process and after a month I have one done, seven to go.

Since I'm putting all this work into the stock I figured I get a new coat on the metal to match. I've done rust and cold blue and learned not to polish it too much or it doesn't take to the metal well. I've never had anything hot blued but I understand I can shine it up as much as I want.

So the question is, on an older rifle how shiny should it be? Do I go for the out of the box look or do I put a good layer of lipstick on the pig?

If your going for a deep polished blue the metal has to be prestine or ever scratch,pit and smudge will show like painting over rust.
Me personally unless your going to bolish it baby smooth dont go to crazy.
You can experiment with blues. Lately I have liked how metal media blasted with 280grit oxide takes cold blue well.
Rust blue method comes out nice even on not so nice metal the key is really not to polish between “rusting” just card the loose stuff off with s carding wheel.
I find you really need to follow the instructions when blueing , I also like to use very Dark oil for the curing process
Heres a really beat up AK sight I did with rust blue and curing in dark cutting oil for 48 hours. Still plenty pitted but would look worse cold blued.
Recently did a Mauser 98k barrel with cold blue also. The finish is not polished just final machined as from the factory

I dont take the best pictures after Birchwood casey cold blue

 

[BaldAssCat]

That's some nice looking work! I'm putting together a cap and ball rifle that I was going to rust blue. My last attempt didn't come out as dark as that so I'll cut back on the polishing for this one.

I should have said up front that I'm doing the prep work and bringing it to La Rocca to be dipped.

 

[mac1911]

That's some nice looking work! I'm putting together a cap and ball rifle that I was going to rust blue. My last attempt didn't come out as dark as that so I'll cut back on the polishing for this one.

I should have said up front that I'm doing the prep work and bringing it to La Rocca to be dipped.

im not very into polishing but I did learn to keep your wheels away from other grits of compounds. Also the larger and wider the wheel is the better for felt wheel polishing.

Ive gone done as fine as 320 for some cold blue applications but there was pitting and scratches to deep for my patience/skill

 

[Mesatchornug]

I don't know what I'd like, that's why I'm coming to the NES brain trust. There's no shortage of opinions here the I know of.

This is always the thread I reference when someone wants to know what "shiny and blue" can really mean.

View: https://imgur.com/gallery/ny95m#MqzRln5

exempli gratia:

 

[Palladin]

I have a Springfield mod 15. 1954.
Tack driver.

View: https://youtu.be/Hl67UpzpkqQ

 

[Waher]

This is always the thread I reference when someone wants to know what "shiny and blue" can really mean.

View: https://imgur.com/gallery/ny95m#MqzRln5

exempli gratia:

Awwwww.... yeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaah whale oil bluing.

 

[DarrenL]

Can you shave using your gun as mirror? If not, the gun is almost worthless.

 

[Mesatchornug]

Awwwww.... yeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaah whale oil bluing.

I recently came into a couple projects that are worth next to nothing; that thread makes me want to mirror polish every part, then re-blue them.

 

[Waher]

I recently came into a couple projects that are worth next to nothing; that thread makes me want to mirror polish every part, then re-blue them.

Gun Bluing Kits - Blue Wonder Gun Care Products

The Blue Wonder™ Gun Blue Kit has everything you need for touch-ups or complete re-bluing of one to three long guns!

www.bluewonderguncare.com

This stuff is supposedly quite good.

 

[Mesatchornug]

Gun Bluing Kits - Blue Wonder Gun Care Products

The Blue Wonder™ Gun Blue Kit has everything you need for touch-ups or complete re-bluing of one to three long guns!

www.bluewonderguncare.com

This stuff is supposedly quite good.

I look forward to trying it out...probably next winter

 

[BaldAssCat]

This is always the thread I reference when someone wants to know what "shiny and blue" can really mean.

View: https://imgur.com/gallery/ny95m#MqzRln5

exempli gratia:

Exactly!

I was starting to lean toward a lower gloss then you post this and I don't know anymore. The questions are do I have it in me to get to that level of shine? If I do will a 90 year old tube fed, bolt action .22 with that shine have the same presence as that 1911?

And now you have me thinking about the trigger too.

 

[Fixxah]

It should be chrome like a parade rifle.

 

[moojpg2]

If you plan on making it a family heirloom, polish it up, shiny polished finishes are actuslly easier to maintain, they wipe down easier, water beads off of it, and it is less likely to corrode.

 

[clampett]

After reading the thread title and the OP's screen name, I was expecting something completely different.

 

[Mesatchornug]

Exactly!

I was starting to lean toward a lower gloss then you post this and I don't know anymore. The questions are do I have it in me to get to that level of shine? If I do will a 90 year old tube fed, bolt action .22 with that shine have the same presence as that 1911?

And now you have me thinking about the trigger too.

don't worry about "presence" because a lot of that is the result of other stories we tell ourselves. We all know "the 1911 won two world wars," etc. That's being patterned in your brain on top of "wow, that's a lot of shine."

If you like the idea of it, sit there and polish while you watch tv. Polish while (instead of?) looking at NES. Put a pile of desiccant in the box you'll be storing the parts in between sessions. Take your time, and eventually you'll get there. (Just be careful of the actual working surfaces!)

And notice, even on the 1911, the polish isn't perfect. There are visible streaks on some surfaces. There's some unevenness of the lighter bluing. Some of that might be wear and age, but it means we know that inconsistent surfaces can still look great.

 

[dcmdon]

A friend of mine is a retired master engraver in the Colt custom shop. He has shown me some blued guns that you can actually see a reflection of yourself in. Its amazing.

 

[mcshooter]

 

[FPrice]

 

[dcmdon]

View attachment 465934

Sadam's AK. Or is that Kadafi's??

 

[FPrice]

Sadam's AK. Or is that Kadafi's??

Saddam. I believe.

 

[dcmdon]

Saddam. I believe.

That's right. Kadafi had a gold plated CZ on him when he died.

 

[mac1911]

My first rifle is a higher end Mossberg 46b. My dad got it for me for $20 when I was 15. It has pine inlays in the stock, decent sights and a not too bad scope. When I got it the inlays were pretty beat up and I didn't improve them while out plinking. Otherwise it was in pretty good shape, until I forgot it was in the trunk of my car when I went to the sandbox for a year. I stripped it after that and did an ok job with some cold blue and that's where it stood for 30 years.

This winter my son tore some pine flooring out that had grain matching the inlays so I decided to fix the inlays and refinish the stock. That's coming along but making compass inlays that fit the existing cutout without changing the cut out is a really slow process and after a month I have one done, seven to go.

Since I'm putting all this work into the stock I figured I get a new coat on the metal to match. I've done rust and cold blue and learned not to polish it too much or it doesn't take to the metal well. I've never had anything hot blued but I understand I can shine it up as much as I want.

So the question is, on an older rifle how shiny should it be? Do I go for the out of the box look or do I put a good layer of lipstick on the pig?

Think its time to see the stock

 

[Thirwell1216]

Charcol Bluing is always nice:

Charcoal Bluing - Turnbull Restoration

Capturing the proper shade and texture of original charcoal bluing (sometimes referred to as carbona bluing) finish depends largely on the underlying metal polish. The end result is a blue-black glossy finish that is hard-wearing. A charcoal blued high polished part will produce a mirror-like...

www.turnbullrestoration.com