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New CMP Garands are Coming in! Post them here!

Nice patina, a '51 barrel, '53-'57 rebuild stock, and a milled TG. Can't ask for more. You also got a CORRECT SA bolt for 1/1943: drawing 12, SA, used from 2/42-3/44.

MS
 
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I was blown away when I unpacked it as I got an SA SG last year and it was a total mixmaster with a 5,xxx,xxx SN. This one is just amazing...Kudos to Majspud for the correct stock and bolt info as well!
As for the sticker on the stock it is pretty smudged I will try and decifer what it says when I get a chance...
 
For those of you that have purchased these at the Service Grade level. is it worth the extra $350.00 to get the "M1 Garand, Service Grade HRA (Harrington & Richardson) Special" of will i be OK with the "M1 Garand, HRA (Harrington & Richardson) Service Grade" version? I am mostly looking for a good shooter that i can some day pass down to my kids.

Thanks
 
phantom9842 said:
For those of you that have purchased these at the Service Grade level. is it worth the extra $350.00 to get the "M1 Garand, Service Grade HRA (Harrington & Richardson) Special" of will i be OK with the "M1 Garand, HRA (Harrington & Richardson) Service Grade" version? I am mostly looking for a good shooter that i can some day pass down to my kids.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Check out this thread all you wanted to know on the topic... CMP Special compared with Service Grade Special - CMP Forums
 
The special comes with new wood.
where with the service grade you have
A decent chance of getting original
gi wood. Imho a service grade has better collector value. Besides mine has already been
claimed
by my 9 year old "when you die dad" ;)
and it hasn't even arrived!
 
majspud said:
Juergen, who made your M4 carbine bayonet? Mine is a Utica. GunBoards, not CMP, $64
MS
Click to expand...

It's made by Imperial, can't make out a date. The sheath it came with is marked U.S. M8A1 and PWH.
I also have an unmarked one w/ leather grip which might be a Korean (?).

The other Garand bayos I have besides the UFH 1943 (no sheath, gotta hunt one down) are
-Modified (shortened) M1905, marked SA 1918. Can't make out any markings on the sheath as it has been re-painted green.
-Another short one, marked UD U.S. and flaming bomb, sheath is marked "U.S" inside flaming bomb
-Another long one, marked UC, flaming bomb, U.S. and 1942 (matches my older Garand), sheath also marked U.S. inside flaming bomb

All 4 Garand bayos and the Imperial Carbine bayo pictured came from an estate, total cost $130.
Me thinks I haven't overpaid for them[laugh]
 
I totally forgot about the 6th one which was part of the deal: An M6 w/ M8 scabbard for the M14 which I grabbed as
an accessory for my M1A NM. As there's an M1907 Wilkinson for my Eddystone 1918 M1917 as well, it looks like I'm
all set on bayos for the U.S. part of the collection.
 
I bet those were all left over there after the war...I think you need to return them........Send them to me and I will look for the rightful owners for you!
 
phantom9842 said:
For those of you that have purchased these at the Service Grade level. is it worth the extra $350.00 to get the "M1 Garand, Service Grade HRA (Harrington & Richardson) Special" of will i be OK with the "M1 Garand, HRA (Harrington & Richardson) Service Grade" version? I am mostly looking for a good shooter that i can some day pass down to my kids.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I would go with the SG at the 6 bill level. That's what I did for my kids one for each (all 5 of 'em). The trick is who gets a IHC, Win, RHA or SA?
 
bbarer said:
I bet those were all left over there after the war...I think you need to return them........Send them to me and I will look for the rightful owners for you!
Click to expand...

Thanks for your generous offer, but there's no friggin way.....except a 1:1 trade for all matching Lugers "liberated" from this country[smile]
 
soloman02 said:
Depending on the ammo, you should be getting it like now. I ordered 400 rounds of loose HXP and an HRA SG. The ammo already arrived. The rifle is still in limbo on the estore.

Timeline:
Mailed around 3/12/13
Paperwork Received: 3/18/13
DBU Email 3/21/13
Estore 6/10/13
Ammo shipped: 6/13/13
Ammo Arrived: 6/18/13
Rifle: ?????
Ammo Time: 92 days (From date letter received)
Rifle: 98 days and counting. (From date letter received)
Click to expand...

Still no change on the rifle. 103 days and counting. It's not gonna make it to me by the 4th at this point [sad]

I finally opened the ammo. The ammo itself is in good condition (mixed headstamps) but the 30 cal cans are rusted to hell and back.
 
OldNorth said:
Oh hell yes!

WW2 era trigger guard, great GI stock, excellent throat and muzzle. You scored, she is beautiful.
Click to expand...
I agee. May have been rebarreled and refinished before being taken out of service. One of my friends got an almost-mint Mosin Nagant rifle. Barrel was cherry. Guaranteed it was re-barreled before it was put into the cosmoline for a decades-long nap!
 
A little off topic but I just tried a new method of getting to cosmo out of the stock of my M1 that came in last month and it worked the best I have ever seen. I took the wood and wrapped it in paper and then in a black trash bag and taped the bag tight to the stock. I left it in the rear window of my car (it didn't look to strange so that it was screaming "gun part") for two days. When I unwrapped it all the cosmo was out and in the paper towels and it looked real nice and still had the "patina" that we look for. I found this method on another board and felt I would share. Best method I have used so far with no danger to the stock and little to no mess.
 
xcom said:
A little off topic but I just tried a new method of getting to cosmo out of the stock of my M1 that came in last month and it worked the best I have ever seen. I took the wood and wrapped it in paper and then in a black trash bag and taped the bag tight to the stock. I left it in the rear window of my car (it didn't look to strange so that it was screaming "gun part") for two days. When I unwrapped it all the cosmo was out and in the paper towels and it looked real nice and still had the "patina" that we look for. I found this method on another board and felt I would share. Best method I have used so far with no danger to the stock and little to no mess.
Click to expand...

Great tip, thank you!


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