Best concealed carry revolver on a budget…

[Homsar]

Alright, interested in getting a good carry revolver. Ideally, a snub nose .357 (but minimum .38+p), 6 rounds, and as lightweight as possible. No one of these is “must have”, but all are considerations. I am finding out how variable the range out there is, from weight to price and everything in between.

Oh! And as budget friendly as possible!

Basically, for any snub nose aficionados, what are you all carrying? What is most important to consider? Can I get a decent one for sub $500?

 

[Picton]

Lordy.

How many of these "which revolver should I buy" threads does this site need?

Get an old Smith model 36 or 37 and call it a day. Forget about +P. .38 spl is fine, and controllable in a snub.

 

[Rick O'Shea]

We all mostly carry 5 shot J frames. Any cheaper and your into a Taurus or Charter Arms,.. enclosed hammer models slide into your pocket like a hooker looking for your wallet.

 

[nordic alien]

charter arms

 

[vcman]

I carry a sp101 .357 when hiking, have to be a good shot if one want to hit anythings with it

 

[Freddy B]

I bought a Charter Arms Undercover a few years back. I hesitated because of their bad reputation, but it was so cheap ($250 brand new) I took a flyer on it. Couldn't be happier. No QC issues at all. Maybe they solved the QC issues that gave them the bad rep?

 

[Palladin]

442

 

[zmd]

Kinda always liked a Smith 638

 

[Homsar]

Thank you all for your input. There’s a lot of options out there, and it seems most are pretty good.

Any makes and models I should be cautious of? I read a few negatives about recent S&W quality control, any more details about that, and what year did the problems begin?

 

[Homsar]

We all mostly carry 5 shot J frames. Any cheaper and your into a Taurus or Charter Arms,.. enclosed hammer models slide into your pocket like a hooker looking for your wallet.

Is there an issue with Taurus revolvers or Charter Arms? I do think that spending just a bit more on the S&W is probably a better bet, but it does seem like both of these budget guns seem well received for the price point.

Full disclosure: I own a Taurus G3C, and it seems… okay? I don’t shoot it much, and the mag release seems to not fully engage and the mag falls out every three shots… I need to fix that!

 

[Picton]

Thank you all for your input. There’s a lot of options out there, and it seems most are pretty good.

Any makes and models I should be cautious of? I read a few negatives about recent S&W quality control, any more details about that, and what year did the problems begin?

I was suggesting an "older" S&W because they're cheaper. I've found many, many Smith snubbies from the '80s and before for $400 or a little less. I've never fired the newer ones because I figure the older ones are probably made better, or certainly NOT made worse. The technology is simple enough that I don't see any real advantage in getting a newer piece just because it's newer, provided the condition isn't bad.

For heavier pieces (above .38spl), I like Ruger better because they're overengineered for a similar or slightly lower price point. I've never fired a Charter nor a Taurus, partly because I've heard horror stories about them and partly because I don't think the other options are overpriced (if that makes sense).

 

[vcman]

Is there an issue with Taurus revolvers or Charter Arms? I do think that spending just a bit more on the S&W is probably a better bet, but it does seem like both of these budget guns seem well received for the price point.

Full disclosure: I own a Taurus G3C, and it seems… okay? I don’t shoot it much, and the mag release seems to not fully engage and the mag falls out every three shots… I need to fix that!

U new to gun or something?if that the case ask around, people may let you shoot their gun ,or rent them .why u want a snub nose .357? If u in worcester ma and have access to a gunrange ill let u shoot my sp.357, most people dont like it.

 

[Homsar]

I am moderately new to pistols especially (I bought a G3C after all). But yeah, I have never actually fired a 357 snubnose. I figured it was the best bet from a versatility standpoint, and the extra weight might help reduce recoil. More calibers usable, the better, I figured.

BUT, the added weight and cost were two concerns I felt I needed to balance, so figured I would ask those who had experience for their thoughts.

And thank you for the generous offer! If I head up to Worcester anytime soon, I may take you up on it!

U new to gun or something?if that the case ask around, people may let you shoot their gun ,or rent them .why u want a snub nose .357? If u in worcester ma and have access to a gunrange I’ll let u shoot my sp.357, most people dont like it.

 

[Homsar]

I was suggesting an "older" S&W because they're cheaper. I've found many, many Smith snubbies from the '80s and before for $400 or a little less. I've never fired the newer ones because I figure the older ones are probably made better, or certainly NOT made worse. The technology is simple enough that I don't see any real advantage in getting a newer piece just because it's newer, provided the condition isn't bad.

Thanks! So, the older S&W models are usually the 2 or 3 digit model numbers? What do you think of the “Bodyguard 38 special” model? Just saw one and got a chance to lift it, felt pretty good!

 

[Picton]

Thanks! So, the older S&W models are usually the 2 or 3 digit model numbers? What do you think of the “Bodyguard 38 special” model? Just saw one and got a chance to lift it, felt pretty good!

I've never sought out one of those; I prefer the exposed hammer. But I think anyone who knows anything about revolvers would agree that it's really hard to go wrong buying a Smith & Wesson in .38 special, regardless of the model number.

My go-to Smiths have always been the Model 10 (in 4"), the 36, and the 37. My Ruger snubbie (.357) was an SP101, but I got rid of it and now I have a GP100. The weight tames the .357 recoil, though it's got a 4" barrel and concealment is difficult. The 5-shot 36 or 37 conceals well, and so does a 2" Model 10.

 

[Retired-LEO]

Alright, interested in getting a good carry revolver. Ideally, a snub nose .357 (but minimum .38+p), 6 rounds, and as lightweight as possible. No one of these is “must have”, but all are considerations. I am finding out how variable the range out there is, from weight to price and everything in between.

Oh! And as budget friendly as possible!

Basically, for any snub nose aficionados, what are you all carrying? What is most important to consider? Can I get a decent one for sub $500?

Nowadays good revolvers are not cheap.

You are not likely to find a S&W or Ruger at a cheap price.

38's, like a M442 (list price $539) are much cheaper than their 357 counterpart M340 ($959 list price) or a M340PD (list price $1139)

The lighter the revolver the harder the recoil.

For carrying I love my S&W 442

For Shooting I love my 686plus

 

[Sterg]

642

 

[fshalor]

I prefer exposed hammer, but SW 637 just does it for me. I think the current LCR triggers are better DA, but I love my venerable 637.

If I were looking at a 6shot revolver, I'd probably just switch to a G43 or small 9mm.

 

[Wickedcoolname]

I've said it before and I'll say it again. Budget self defense guns belong in the same pile of junk as discount parachutes and discount scuba tanks.

 

[rep308]

357 out of 2” barrel is just wrist pain with a flame. All that for maybe 100 fps and loss of accuracy

 

[Retired-LEO]

357 out of 2” barrel is just wrist pain with a flame. All that for maybe 100 fps and loss of accuracy

That's why I have a S&W 686plus 5 inch; it's pleasant even with 357 Magnum loads!

 

[M1911]

Alright, interested in getting a good carry revolver. Ideally, a snub nose .357 (but minimum .38+p), 6 rounds, and as lightweight as possible. No one of these is “must have”, but all are considerations. I am finding out how variable the range out there is, from weight to price and everything in between.

Oh! And as budget friendly as possible!

Basically, for any snub nose aficionados, what are you all carrying? What is most important to consider? Can I get a decent one for sub $500?

You are not going to get a cheap, lightweight, snubnose with 6 shots in .357.

Are you going to carry in a pocket or on your belt? Most revolvers small enough to be carried in a pocket are going to be 5 shot.

Most revolvers light enough to be carried in a pocket are very, very uncomfortable to shoot with .357. Even .38 +P is uncomfortable in a 16 oz revolver. Also, the lightweight revolvers chambered in .357 are more expensive than the ones chambered in .38 +P.

For pocket carry, I suggest that you look at 5-shot revolvers chambered in .38 +P. I suggest you consider S&W 642/442 and the Ruger LCR.

You should realize the snubnose revolvers are very hard to shoot accurately. In addition, you will need to spend a lot of time training with dummy rounds in order to learn to reload with any efficiency.

Speedloaders that require you to turn a knob, like HKS, just suck. Get Safariland Comp II instead.

All that said, I sold my 642. My Kahr PM9 is easier to shoot, holds 6+1, is easier to reload, and is chambered in 9mm. I carry and shoot my PM9. I gave up on the 642.

I suggest that you consider a Glock 43 or SIG P365 instead of a snubnose revolver.

 

[M1911]

357 out of 2” barrel is just wrist pain with a flame. All that for maybe 100 fps and loss of accuracy

Yup. The S&W scandium revolvers just convert $ into pain.

 

[MAD Geary]

I saw a Taurus 856 in the classifieds for ~$300. It fits your needs. I have one, it works, not as smooth as my 442 or LCR but it’s been reliable.

 

[rep308]

I feel unsafe and think I need a gun, whats the cheapest one I can find on Craigslist

 

[Rick O'Shea]

Is there an issue with Taurus revolvers or Charter Arms?

All else aside, simply resale value.

 

[Homsar]

I feel unsafe and think I need a gun, whats the cheapest one I can find on Craigslist

No, I was trying to strike the right balance… I have p365, love it, though my accuracy is less with it than with my S&W EZ 9mm.

…I was just balancing cost with the various other factors. And quite a few responses from folks have been most helpful.

 

[Homsar]

Alright, thank you all!

I’m looking at a 5 shot 38sp. 357 not worth the increase in price, weight, or potential joint pain (I did look at the ballistics and, yeah, you don’t get much benefit out of the short barrel)!

It seems like I need to decide about an exposed hammer or not, something I hadn’t really thought about, but can’t go wrong with a lot of the older S&Ws or Rugers generally. I think I can do okay with a $500 budget, so that great.

Lots of specific models to look at, and I thank you all again.

 

[chris_1001]

Model 29 combat mag. 3” .44 Mag don’t be a pu$$y (yes I have one)

Sure it’s only 5 rounds. But..

Seriously the 442 is a good compromise (I carried a SW 337 5 shot +p .38 for years)

I prefer my sig p365 all day everyday (see what I did there?)

 

[M1911]

Alright, thank you all!

I’m looking at a 5 shot 38sp. 357 not worth the increase in price, weight, or potential joint pain (I did look at the ballistics and, yeah, you don’t get much benefit out of the short barrel)!

It seems like I need to decide about an exposed hammer or not, something I hadn’t really thought about, but can’t go wrong with a lot of the older S&Ws or Rugers generally. I think I can do okay with a $500 budget, so that great.

The first thing you have to decide is how you are going to carry it. This is your first and most important decision because it impacts what choices make sense and what don’t make sense.

Most older S&W and Ruger small frame revolvers are going to be all steel and thus too heavy for pocket carry. In my opinion, carrying a J-frame size revolver in a belt holster doesn’t make much sense. If you are going to carry on your belt and have a cover garment, then you can carry something much more effective like a Glock 19 or 43x/48.

If you are going to carry in a pocket, then you need to get something lightweight, like a 642/442. For me, a Ruger sp101 was simply way too heavy to carry in a pocket (I had one, sold it, and have never missed it). An older all steel J-frame is just going to be too heavy to carry in your pocket and, in my opinion, pointless to carry in a belt holster.

In terms of type of hammer, for pocket carry I would get a hammerless revolver like a 642/442. They are much less likely to snag while drawing from a pocket and the likelihood of you needing to cock the hammer in a defensive shooting is very low. I spent a year competing in IDPA with a 4” K-frame revolver. I learned very quickly that there was no point in manually cocking, even for a difficult shot, because it just takes too long.

If you get a 642/442, then budget for a spring replacement. It is relatively easy to do and will reduce the trigger weight to something more manageable. I’ve heard that the Ruger LCR has a better trigger out of the box, but I have no experience with one.