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What did you do to your firearm today.

DarkJoker33 said:
Well before the 92x rdo came out, the LTT rdo was the only other option besides the trijicon plate above and generic plates that dont hold worth a damn. I didnt want to spend $600+ for just a slide with a rdo cut. Never mind the wait time.

Just fine. Like anything else, the more you use it, the more you get used to it. It helps I dont have sausage links for fingers and thumbs though.
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I'm guilty myself of wanting to save a buck. But it seems like you should "buy once cry once". At the rate you buy things I'm sure you'll end up with a rdo cut slide eventually.
 
$100 vs $600 I was fine with it.
Aditionally, if you need any sort of service/parts for the LTT slide, you have to mail it in.They wont sell anything to you individually.

Which is why I got a 92x centurion rdo slide vs an LTT centurion slide
$475 complete slide assembly,barrel,recoil rod and spring vs just slide and internals
 
I looked at my HK P30SK and wished I had the dough to send it to Wright Armory in AZ to have it milled to add their i-DOT universal optic tray system.

Then the sexiest pistol I own could become super sexy topped with a Trijicon RMR like this example which included a QPQ black nitrate refinish...

1GOE5kJ.jpg



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CatSnoutSoup said:
I looked at my HK P30SK and wished I had the dough to send it to Wright Armory in AZ to have it milled to add their i-DOT universal optic tray system.

Then the sexiest pistol I own could become super sexy topped with a Trijicon RMR like this example which included a QPQ black nitrate refinish...

1GOE5kJ.jpg



🐯
Click to expand...
I thought about getting a P30 (and particularly the SK when I lived in MA) but ended up with a VP9; the new ones come milled already. I have a Trijicon RMR atop mine.
 
I'll be trying to diagnose my 1912-made Winchester 1897. It doesn't extract properly. I figured I'd give it a go before trying a smith. I have a list of smith-eligible projects, but I was able to resolve my last two on my own; I prefer to go that route when possible.

Bad ammo left a broken case in my Ruger Mk III barrel. Try as I may, I've been unable to get the broken case out.
 
Yesterday I took one of my ARs to the range to sight in a Holosun 510C.

Had a target at 50 yards, was firing three shot groups, checking with a spotting scope and adjusting the red dot as needed.

During the third group of three after the second shot the trigger shoe failed to come forward and reset. The bolt had cycled, the hammer had been pushed back and hooked up, but the trigger shoe did not move forward.

I found that the trigger shoe could be physical pushed forward and I could feel it reset. The trigger could then be pulled and the rifle would fire as normal but again the trigger shoe would not reset without be pushed forward.

The trigger is a Rise Armament RA-535 which is single stage trigger with a sort of bleeding edge very short pull and reset to begin with, but I own a couple of them and have never had an issue.

Anyway I was able to continue sighting the Holosun by pushing the trigger forward before each shot. I got it to group on the bull with about a silver dollar size spread which I think is excellent for a reflex red dot optic at 50 yards and my old eyes.

As for the trigger when I got home I emailed Rise Armament about the issue and I got a reply within an hour. They reminded me of their lifetime warranty, and right away sent me a prepaid return label, saying as soon as they get the faulty trigger they will send me a new one.
You really cannot ask for more then that (provided it all works out). I removed the trigger this morning and will sent it in (couldn't snake it past the safety selector had to pull it, Grrr!).

It does make me wonder if I should be putting my faith in a "performance" trigger rather than something more workman like. Also while I have a few spare mil spec trigger arrangements if needed, maybe I should have a spare drop in as well.


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Personally, I don’t use high performance parts in firearms that will be used for anything other than range fun. I don’t see the sense in it. I just want reliable. But for range toys, I say have at it.

Stupid question though, are you sure your springs are on correctly in that trigger group? I think most of us have put the springs in backwards before. This can cause reset issues. Especially with light springs on a performance trigger, where you are right on the edge of having issues anyway.
 
I believe it's a contained drop in trigger. It would have been even better if they would have sent you a new one and then told you to use that box to return your old one.

That way you could at least still use it while you waited for the replacement.
 
LuvDog said:
I believe it's a contained drop in trigger. It would have been even better if they would have sent you a new one and then told you to use that box to return your old one.

That way you could at least still use it while you waited for the replacement.
Click to expand...
rise triggers from what i understand can be a hit and miss, unfortunately. larues and triggertech are mostly - hit, but, nothing is guaranteed. sucks when it happens.

the 308 ar of mine accumulates a ton of gunk in the bolt, just spent about of 30 min cleaning it all through as charging handle became almost impossible to pull. and it had, i think, may be 300 shots most. way too much gunk in the bolt`s chamber, it took a while to scrape it clean, and some is still left in there.
quite odd that my varget charge is doing it, as i did not shoot much of any other ammo in it. may be bolt had some oil in there, will see how it will behave now when it is clean and dry inside.
 
paul73 said:
rise triggers from what i understand can be a hit and miss, unfortunately. larues and triggertech are mostly - hit, but, nothing is guaranteed. sucks when it happens.

the 308 ar of mine accumulates a ton of gunk in the bolt, just spent about of 30 min cleaning it all through as charging handle became almost impossible to pull. and it had, i think, may be 300 shots most. way too much gunk in the bolt`s chamber, it took a while to scrape it clean, and some is still left in there.
quite odd that my varget charge is doing it, as i did not shoot much of any other ammo in it. may be bolt had some oil in there, will see how it will behave now when it is clean and dry inside.
Click to expand...

Like on the backside of the bolt?

I do feel they are a little dirtier. We also have that much more real estate to spread extra oil onto :)

When I first went to an adjustable gas block on one I use a lot, I remember feeling it seemed to all of the sudden run cleaner.

My gut with AR10-ish things says the ammo has a wider range they try to support, where you might expect it to run an underpowered and slow/heavy 7.62 all the way to a light hot .308 - so often they are way over gassed in an effort to make us consumers happy.
 
teamRR said:
Like on the backside of the bolt?

I do feel they are a little dirtier. We also have that much more real estate to spread extra oil onto :)

When I first went to an adjustable gas block on one I use a lot, I remember feeling it seemed to all of the sudden run cleaner.

My gut with AR10-ish things says the ammo has a wider range they try to support, where you might expect it to run an underpowered and slow/heavy 7.62 all the way to a light hot .308 - so often they are way over gassed in an effort to make us consumers happy.
Click to expand...
it was all around covered in gunk, really, a solid residue of powder gunk on the face, in the chamber, on the pin, on whole bolt assembly - not that much on the carrier itself or gas port.
i scrubbed it all off, but, it makes me wonder why, as i use varget for all my loads and neither 223 nor 6 dasher do that. at shooting it felt like it was burning out clean enough, when i shot it, i did not see much smoke at all, so, go figure.
like i said - it got gunked to the level that i could barely pull the charging handle with both hands. now it is smooth as silk again, can pull with 2 fingers. odd stuff.
 
Finished up the mods to my original carbine this morning.
Changed out the handguard over the weekend from the old free float (from MAS Defense IIRC) to one from MidWest Industries (FAR better IMO). Also changed the foregrip to the Magpul m-lok AFG. Pulled the old muzzle break at that time and decided I wanted something better on it. So got a Fortis from Joe Bob (arrived earlier today) and installed it. Also had changed out the old dust cover to one from Magpul (much nicer/easier install). I've been changing over all my AR15 dust covers over to the Magpul one.

Current config:
PXL_20220818_141401695.jpg

Need to get an optic for my 6.5 Grendel upper that's now complete. Got some ammo for that recently, along with some more dedicated mags.
On deck (hopefully this weekend) is finishing up the pistol caliber AR builds. Plus the AR10 build.
 
LakeTrout said:
Personally, I don’t use high performance parts in firearms that will be used for anything other than range fun. I don’t see the sense in it. I just want reliable. But for range toys, I say have at it.
Click to expand...

Yeah I would agree that is prudent, but also this trigger model gets used in competition a lot so I want to think it is not like it hasn't been proven to hold up through a lot of cycles.
Your advice there would be my advice as well, but I am still not sure I am going to take it. :p

LakeTrout said:
Stupid question though, are you sure your springs are on correctly in that trigger group? I think most of us have put the springs in backwards before. This can cause reset issues. Especially with light springs on a performance trigger, where you are right on the edge of having issues anyway.
Click to expand...

I can't recall putting a trigger, hammer, or disconnector spring in backwards in the past, but in this case it would not have been an option anyway.


yAEulcrl.png



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LuvDog said:
It would have been even better if they would have sent you a new one and then told you to use that box to return your old one.
Click to expand...

Well funny enough...

I dropped the old trigger off at my local post office for its trip back to Broken Arrow OK, and according to USPS Informed Delivery less than an hour later somebody in Broken Arrow sent me a package.

So I can only assume they are cross posting the replacement. It is quite possible they get RMA products in and they don't even look at them until they get around to it, so they just ship the replacement as soon as their prepaid return label shows up in the system as on the way back to them.


🐯
 
CatSnoutSoup said:
Well funny enough...

I dropped the old trigger off at my local post office for its trip back to Broken Arrow OK, and according to USPS Informed Delivery less than an hour later somebody in Broken Arrow sent me a package.

So I can only assume they are cross posting the replacement. It is quite possible they get RMA products in and they don't even look at them until they get around to it, so they just ship the replacement as soon as their prepaid return label shows up in the system as on the way back to them.


🐯
Click to expand...

That was quick! The replacement trigger arrived today in retail packaging which includes a set of KNS anti-rotation pins (plus a little swag).

72 hours from initially contacting them to having a replacement in hand. I think we can chalk Rise Armament up as first rate for warranty service.

MyBcCPi.jpg


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