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My Dan Wesson Rifle….Revolver?

andrew1220 said:
I hate to admit this is the first blued revolver I’ve ever owned. What’s the preferred method to clean off the fouling from the outside of the cylinder? I’m thinking CLP on a bronze brass cleaning brush?
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I don't actually know what most people do with their blued revolvers, let alone what's "preferred". The way I see it, the beauty of it being blued is that it's hard to see carbon fouling on the cylinder face in the first place, and the point is to keep it from building up. I generally just cut a small square from a blue (non-scratch) Scotchbrite pad and scrub it with Hoppes #9. Doing the same with stainless revolvers leaves a thin layer of carbon fouling, so I assume that's what's happening with my blued revolvers as well, but I can't see it, so I don't care.
 
meh said:
I don't actually know what most people do with their blued revolvers, let alone what's "preferred". The way I see it, the beauty of it being blued is that it's hard to see carbon fouling on the cylinder face in the first place, and the point is to keep it from building up. I generally just cut a small square from a blue (non-scratch) Scotchbrite pad and scrub it with Hoppes #9. Doing the same with stainless revolvers leaves a thin layer of carbon fouling, so I assume that's what's happening with my blued revolvers as well, but I can't see it, so I don't care.
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Good points. I don’t mind the front of the cylinder, it’s the sides/flutes that show the fouling.
 
TrashcanDan said:
You'll need a few pounds of this
Perfect for that barrel length. Little slower than H110.
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Yeah that would be perfect for this barrel. I have 8+ pounds of 2400 powder left plus a couple thousand loaded with 2400 powder. I’m not switching powders now 😂
 
andrew1220 said:
Good points. I don’t mind the front of the cylinder, it’s the sides/flutes that show the fouling.
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My 27-9 gets scorch marks where the non-fluted parts of the cylinder face the top strap. The non-scratching blue Scotchbrite pads and Hoppes #9 works on that as well. I just don't clean that off as frequently as I clean the gun because I figure the bluing is perfect underneath the scorch marks, but aggressive cleaning might change that eventually. A zillion things might be better or faster. Don't know.
 
meh said:
My 27-9 gets scorch marks where the non-fluted parts of the cylinder face the top strap. The non-scratching blue Scotchbrite pads and Hoppes #9 works on that as well. I just don't clean that off as frequently as I clean the gun because I figure the bluing is perfect underneath the scorch marks, but aggressive cleaning might change that eventually. A zillion things might be better or faster. Don't know.
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Thanks
 
andrew1220 said:
Yup! They’d shoot the long barrels in this position
View attachment 548627
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Many years ago, a guy a couple of lanes over was shooting in that position, but with a shorter barrel.

Apparently, too short, as on one shot(his last) the muzzle was about half-way between the back of his leg, and the front of his leg.

He appeared....surprised....and needed to get new pants (there was a good-sized piece of material missing where the muzzle had been). No meat went missing, though, so it could have been worse.
 

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