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HK VP9

Ive always used my middle finger to activate paddle mag releases....its much faster for me than using index finger. Also safer because index finger is rested along frame of gun in safe position. Reaching w thumb is no good...it requires shift of grip - forget about it.

no question the paddle system takes a little more training but i am convinced its overall superior to push button in many ways.
 
Ive always used my middle finger to activate paddle mag releases....its much faster for me than using index finger. Also safer because index finger is rested along frame of gun in safe position. Reaching w thumb is no good...it requires shift of grip - forget about it.

no question the paddle system takes a little more training but i am convinced its overall superior to push button in many ways.

I go with the middle finger release also. For me it is the quickest way to press the lever without having to readjust my grip.
 
When you chamber a round you are cocking the striker, so when it's not cocked, like after you dry fire it while empty, the trigger will be light. I think that's what you're feeling.

No that's not really what I'm saying.
Having had more time to mess with this I have more information...

If I have the slide open and locked the trigger moves smoothly and freely from beginning to end.
When I release the slide, no matter if I have a snap cap chambered or not, it acts much differently.
The first 1/8" or so of trigger pull the trigger moves freely and smoothly with a bit of spring resistance. Then I hit a point of heavier resistance but it's not from a spring. If I continue pulling there is this sort of middle area where if I move the trigger back and forth there is friction and I can actually hear something rubbing together. This middle area is from where the 1/8" friction point starts to where the gun fires.

Looking into the magwell area with the action open I see what I assume is the trigger bar on the right moving back and forth as I pull and release the trigger. It's the only thing I see moving. Front to back there is no resistance or rubbing. After releasing the slide I feel the resistance and hear the rubbing after 1/8" of trigger pull so I assume the trigger bar is rubbing against something. That's what I' wondering about. Is that normal operation of a striker fire pistol or do I have a problem? Or does it just need to wear in? If it's normal what's the trigger bar rubbing against?
Again, this is my first striker fire pistol so I don't know what's normal or not.
 
When slide is locked back, the trigger doesnt contact the striker.....so whatever difference youre feeling w slide in battery is coming from trigger actuating the striker, striker block and possibly the sear
 
With the slide in the locked open position, you have removed approximately 50% of the parts that would fire the gun. It is a striker fire gun, so many parts are in the slide, I think you will find that if you remove the slide all together you will have a similar smooth feel to the trigger, because it is not contacting any of the striker fire assembly. When the slide is closed it is actually operating many of the striker fire components that live in the slide, weather cocked or not.
 
OK. So even after I fire (using snap caps) I still feel and hear the rubbing because it's still actuating parts. It sounds like this is normal and I have nothing to worry about. I need to read up on how striker fire pistols work.
 
I go with the middle finger release also. For me it is the quickest way to press the lever without having to readjust my grip.

Ya, same here. I use the middle finger. I don't think I could actuate it easily enough with my thumb and the middle finger is easier than the index finger and seems like a safer option.
 
Next question...
How the hell do I carry this thing! [laugh]
I had no problem carrying my Sig P938 cocked and locked.
I assume if I rack a round it's 100% guaranteed to not go boom unless the trigger safety is engaged right?
Really need to find a good striker fire operational guide.
 
Next question...
How the hell do I carry this thing! [laugh]
I had no problem carrying my Sig P938 cocked and locked.
I assume if I rack a round it's 100% guaranteed to not go boom unless the trigger safety is engaged right?
Really need to find a good striker fire operational guide.

Nothing is 100%. Keep it pointed in a safe direction.
 
The handgun is "safe" when carried with a round in the chamber, in an appropriate holster. Always keep it pointed in a safe direction as previously mentioned, as with all guns.

Next question...
How the hell do I carry this thing! [laugh]
I had no problem carrying my Sig P938 cocked and locked.
I assume if I rack a round it's 100% guaranteed to not go boom unless the trigger safety is engaged right?
Really need to find a good striker fire operational guide.
 
Next question...
How the hell do I carry this thing! [laugh]
I had no problem carrying my Sig P938 cocked and locked.
I assume if I rack a round it's 100% guaranteed to not go boom unless the trigger safety is engaged right?
Really need to find a good striker fire operational guide.

I just picked mine up and had similar thoughts. Interesting quote in the user manual:

Returning the pistol to the holster

- The VP9 pistol must be made “Safe” (or cleared) prior to returning it to the holster. The pistol is considered safe to return it to the holster when:

1. All fingers are off of the trigger and out of the trigger guard.

2. The pistol is “clear.”

Seems that this should be either/or, but not both. Surely they don't mean that you can't holster the firearm unless you clear it.
 
I just picked mine up and had similar thoughts. Interesting quote in the user manual:



Seems that this should be either/or, but not both. Surely they don't mean that you can't holster the firearm unless you clear it.

I'm impressed you read the user manual! Don't think I have ever read one before.


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it's no different than a glock, M&P or any other striker gun.
same safety stuff applies.
 
it's no different than a glock, M&P or any other striker gun.
same safety stuff applies.

I always religiously follow safety procedures but I've never had any of those guns or an striker fire gun thus the question. My hammer fire guns have always had physical safety levers.

As far as the failures on my first range trip are concerned, I just got back from the range and had good results.
One mag of Underwood 124 grain XTP JHP +P with no failures.
One mag of Winchester SXZ 115 grain RN with no failures.
Four mags of the same reloads that failed miserably yesterday and only had two failures.
So it seems to be loosening up and I have to juice up my next batch of reloads a bit to satisfy this pistol. I have plenty of headroom since I usually load on the lighter side.
This gun feels great in my hand and I think I'm going to like the trigger system. Nice short reset and wide trigger. I like it. I had a P30LS but this is a bit shorter and feels more balanced.
 
Next question...
How the hell do I carry this thing! [laugh]
I had no problem carrying my Sig P938 cocked and locked.
I assume if I rack a round it's 100% guaranteed to not go boom unless the trigger safety is engaged right?
Really need to find a good striker fire operational guide.

Not sure if serious.

Use a good holster, one that isn't a POS. Load the gun. Safely put it in the holster. Done. It ain't gonna go off unless you or something else pulls the trigger.

-Mike
 
I always religiously follow safety procedures but I've never had any of those guns or an striker fire gun thus the question. My hammer fire guns have always had physical safety levers.

As far as the failures on my first range trip are concerned, I just got back from the range and had good results.
One mag of Underwood 124 grain XTP JHP +P with no failures.
One mag of Winchester SXZ 115 grain RN with no failures.
Four mags of the same reloads that failed miserably yesterday and only had two failures.
So it seems to be loosening up and I have to juice up my next batch of reloads a bit to satisfy this pistol. I have plenty of headroom since I usually load on the lighter side.

In gods name, why? For a defensive type gun you should be loading up stuff that is factory or better. For 9mm this means 1100ish for 124 grain and probably 1200ish for 115 grain bullets.

Fluff loads only introduce annoyance and aggravation. A gun like a VP9 will eat +P+ stuff all day long and not care.

-Mike
 
Not sure if serious.

Use a good holster, one that isn't a POS. Load the gun. Safely put it in the holster. Done. It ain't gonna go off unless you or something else pulls the trigger.

-Mike
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- - - Updated - - -

Glocks eat up +P+ too.
 
You seriously thought it was necessary to crap on someone for asking a question on how to safely carry a loaded weapon that he's not familiar with? WOW.
And as far as my reloads are concerned, they've always been fine with every other gun I've owned. I load at the low to mid range of the powders spec for a particular bullet that will properly cycle and eject in my guns. Again, I have a new type of gun that I'm not familiar with and the first time out I discovered that it requires hotter loads than I usually press. I'm in the process of making that adjustment and have come up with a load that so far is performing well. Why this is so unbelievable I don't understand.
 
You seriously thought it was necessary to crap on someone for asking a question on how to safely carry a loaded weapon that he's not familiar with? WOW.
And as far as my reloads are concerned, they've always been fine with every other gun I've owned. I load at the low to mid range of the powders spec for a particular bullet that will properly cycle and eject in my guns. Again, I have a new type of gun that I'm not familiar with and the first time out I discovered that it requires hotter loads than I usually press. I'm in the process of making that adjustment and have come up with a load that so far is performing well. Why this is so unbelievable I don't understand.

I didn't see anyone crapping on you. He's a) just wondering if you're serious about how to holster the gun and b) wondering why you're loading light loads for a defensive pistol
 
You seriously thought it was necessary to crap on someone for asking a question on how to safely carry a loaded weapon that he's not familiar with? WOW.

Apologies if I came off as a bit coarse, but I guess I assumed you had more experience than that. It's not really any different than carrying any other gun. Even if I have a gun with a safety on it I want to protect the trigger guard, etc. Think of it as a revolver with a light trigger. I guess I'm a little biased- the first 4 guns I bought didn't even have manual safeties on them. The gun safety rules don't really change, other than perhaps one should be doubly careful to make sure that holster is clear when holstering or re-holstering. That's always something I did whether I had a 10 pound DA trigger or a 4.whatever pound Glock trigger, or a 1911 running in C1 with a 4 pound SA trigger. The handling doesn't really change other than the fact that there's just no levers or other BS to manipulate.

And as far as my reloads are concerned, they've always been fine with every other gun I've owned. I load at the low to mid range of the powders spec for a particular bullet that will properly cycle and eject in my guns. Again, I have a new type of gun that I'm not familiar with and the first time out I discovered that it requires hotter loads than I usually press. I'm in the process of making that adjustment and have come up with a load that so far is performing well. Why this is so unbelievable I don't understand.

I just say what I said as someone who got completely frustrated with working at the bottom end of the chart because it was a complete waste of time... jamming guns, terrible chrono results, etc... often to include things like bad deviation as well. Most of the time I ended up usually starting halfway up to max, and working up a load based on ladders of 10 rounds in each tenth of a grain increase, including one that was a tenth beyond max. Even with most of the stuff I load, I still end up below max. If your goal is to launch a bullet with the least amount of recoil, then so be it. I worked from the idea of "like factory, but better." Like if I picked up a box of my reloads they just work decent in pretty much anything, and I don't have to futz with it at all. Having ammo around that doesn't work in pretty much everything in that caliber (with limited exceptions) almost makes me apoplectic. I just want guns to work properly with good enough accuracy. I guess everyone has a different philosophy while reloading. [laugh] I think my worldview is perhaps tainted because when I started reloading I owned over a dozen handguns at that time, so I had access to a lot of stuff, and I wanted it to work well in everything.

Out of curiousity... do you have a Chrono?

-Mike
 
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I'm not purposely loading light loads for a defensive pistol. I had a bunch of 9's already made up from previous pistols that worked fine in them. I didn't realize this gun required higher pressure. Now I do.
And by light I don't mean lighter than the starting grains in order to reduce recoil. I start at starting grains or just above and find the point where my gun cycles properly, ejects properly and is accurate using the least amount of powder necessary. I see no point in putting more powder into the case than is necessary to properly operate the pistol. All that does is drain your bottle of powder faster. I've never met two reloaders who load the same way. Everyone has their own little twists, tweaks and load preferences and that's how I do it. I don't have a chrono yet but unless something unexpected happens I'll have one by mid February. I have one picked out.

I've been a paid member long enough to know that a lot of harmless poking goes on here. That's fine but I think questions related to safety should be exempt of the poking. I'd rather ask a question that someone thinks is dumb than to shove a loaded gun I'm not familiar with into my pants and risk blowing my nuts off. My experience is with revolvers and hammer fire pistols. When I got my first 1911 I had no idea how it worked and was hesitant to run cocked and locked. Now I can tear down, thoroughly clean and assemble a 1911 in far less than an hour and have no problem running cocked and locked. That's because I'm familiar with it and know how it operates. Not so with a striker fire pistol so I'm taking precautions and asking questions.
 
one of the perks of a striker gun is they're all damn-near identical. sure they vary in whether the striker system is closer to SA (e.g. PPQ) or DA (e.g. Kahr), but ultimately they're the same machine inside. so now that you're learning the VP9 you can easily jump over to a glock or M&P and you'd be good-to-go.

some of your trepidation with the VP9 being chambered highlights another aspect of striker guns: since most of them don't have manual safety or DA pull on 1st shot, they really require the operator to exercise top-notch trigger discipline. for example it's easy to get used to drawing a P229 or 92FS with the finger resting on trigger because the DA pull will allow for some sloppy finger technique....not so with most striker guns. i'm guilty of this myself....i've noticed sometimes with my P226 I've got my finger touching the trigger before I've acquired the target.....it's sloppy.

back to the VP9 topic though, I'm interested to see how long it takes HK to make a long-slide version of the VP9 (e.g. VP9L perhaps?) and a version with thumb-style mag release. Although I love the paddle system, I can't see the VP9 becoming a duty weapon or hitting it big-time in the US without a thumb mag release.
 
I had the P30LS. Now that I have the VP9 I actually like the shorter barrel more than the longer barrel. It feels more balanced. I suppose there's some velocity trade off but for civilian use I personally don't think it matters.

If there's one thing I'm very good at its trigger discipline. I've built muscle memory that just puts my finger to the side every time without thinking about it. If I'm not in the act of shooting my finger is to the side. I shoot with people who've been shooting a lot longer than me and I can't believe how careless they are with the trigger. I also bring people to shoot for the first time and have to tell them over and over "finger off the trigger" but they keep doing it.

As far as the mag release, there's a long list of things like USB and digital cameras that people said had no chance at the beginning so you never know. LE went to 40S&W then everyone had to have 40S&W. All it takes is for LE or military to give the thumbs up (pun intended) and opinions will change.
 
I'm not purposely loading light loads for a defensive pistol. I had a bunch of 9's already made up from previous pistols that worked fine in them. I didn't realize this gun required higher pressure. Now I do.

It's not that it requires "higher pressure" it's just that your loads have probably been too weak all along. (I'm not sure what powder you're using, but with very few exceptions, loading bottom up in 9mm Luger with (most) book data, and stopping at the "first thing that seems to work okay and is accurate" is going to produce very weak ammunition 9 times out of 10. )

And by light I don't mean lighter than the starting grains in order to reduce recoil. I start at starting grains or just above and find the point where my gun cycles properly, ejects properly and is accurate using the least amount of powder necessary.

To me those are reduced recoil loads. Most book data for things like 9mm, depending on the powder, the start load is VERY weak, at least when compared to
lots of commercial ammo. You take something like Win 231 and load it up at the start load, and the result is probably going to be pretty anemic. Hell some powders even at their max load are lukewarm, but passable. (Win231 falls neatly into this category. )

I see no point in putting more powder into the case than is necessary to properly operate the pistol. All that does is drain your bottle of powder faster.

This "powder conservation" thing is silly, btw... . I probably accidentally spill more powder out of every jug than you would have saved move from a weak load to a a warm-normal load over 1000 rounds. As an example, 1 pound of Titegroup makes like 1500+? rounds of 9mm. A few tenths of a grain of powder on each load is not going to put anyone in the poor house. (I know it keeps me from wanting to check myself into an asylum, though)

I've never met two reloaders who load the same way. Everyone has their own little twists, tweaks and load preferences and that's how I do it. I don't have a chrono yet but unless something unexpected happens I'll have one by mid February. I have one picked out.

Now it makes a little more sense- you're being cautious because basically you're flying while blind. Developing loads without a chrono is painful. Hell when I started I bought the Chrono -BEFORE- I bought everything else. It's a good way to validate your work, whatever your goals are. Also, if you ever do competitive pistol shooting, you will be able to know whether or not your load exceeds power floor for whatever sport you're shooting. If you're just going by the book it's easy to stop and make 9mm loads that don't even meet 9mm minor, which is pretty wimpy to begin with. I think that's 125 PF, which if you're launching a 115 gr bullet at like 1100 fps you're barely making minor with a PF of like 126.5 . You would be surprised at the number of start loads in a given reloading book which probably don't even come close to making minor.

I've been a paid member long enough to know that a lot of harmless poking goes on here. That's fine but I think questions related to safety should be exempt of the poking. I'd rather ask a question that someone thinks is dumb than to shove a loaded gun I'm not familiar with into my pants and risk blowing my nuts off. My experience is with revolvers and hammer fire pistols. When I got my first 1911 I had no idea how it worked and was hesitant to run cocked and locked. Now I can tear down, thoroughly clean and assemble a 1911 in far less than an hour and have no problem running cocked and locked. That's because I'm familiar with it and know how it operates. Not so with a striker fire pistol so I'm taking precautions and asking questions.

It's not that it was a dumb question I was just surprised that someone would ask it. Guns like Glocks, M&P, etc all have a very simple manual of arms. You want the gun to fire you pull the trigger. If not then don't. And regardless of which platform you choose it should be in a good holster. The need for a good holster (or at least, some dingus that covers the trigger guard!) never really dies or changes when you change platforms. I even had a holster when I had my P7M8, despite the fact that the trigger was completely deactivated if you didn't have the squeeze cocker part depressed.

-Mike
 
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As far as the mag release, there's a long list of things like USB and digital cameras that people said had no chance at the beginning so you never know. LE went to 40S&W then everyone had to have 40S&W. All it takes is for LE or military to give the thumbs up (pun intended) and opinions will change.

LE and military don't push new designs, they are dragged kicking and screaming into a change. It's the competitive shooter that are constantly looking for the faster/best design and no one uses paddle mag releases and they aren't a new design either
 
Does the VP9 have second strike capability or does the striker have to be cocked each time during dry fire practice?
I have a bunch of the Walther P99s and I like the mag release. I also like that I can just draw and dry fire continuously.
 
LE and military don't push new designs, they are dragged kicking and screaming into a change. It's the competitive shooter that are constantly looking for the faster/best design and no one uses paddle mag releases and they aren't a new design either

This. It's like pulling teeth without novocaine to get my department to adopt new efficient ideas in firearms.
 
Does the VP9 have second strike capability or does the striker have to be cocked each time during dry fire practice?
I have a bunch of the Walther P99s and I like the mag release. I also like that I can just draw and dry fire continuously.

No second strike capability. Most striker fired guns are SA only. I think i recently read about striker gun that was DA though.. could be remembering that wrong though.

Sent from my Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk Pro - typos are from the GD auto correct unless they are funny substitutions those I'll take credit for.
 
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