You'll have a great time. Those Specials are real nice and will shoot great!
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First CMP order! It's here!
- Thread starter Hamtramck
- Start date
You'll have a great time. Those Specials are real nice and will shoot great!
Just heard from CMP today, shipped out and should be here tomorrow! Pictures to follow ASAP, hopefully a range report before the weekend is out!![[banana]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/029.GIF "Banana [banana]")
FedEx screwed up, ended up having to go get it myself. 1954 HRA, muzzle 2+, throat 3. Need to investigate further but it looks to me like the bolt and barrel are an original match with the receiver. I will post pics tomorrow but right now I need to get to work. Wasted the morning waiting for FedEx...
Was hoping for a GI stock but it's a new CMP with no oil on it yet.
dhuze
NES Member
They put 3 drops on it.
Put in an order last week, we'll see what happens...
Just heard from CMP today, shipped out and should be here tomorrow! Pictures to follow ASAP, hopefully a range report before the weekend is out!
OK, looks like mostly HRA parts except for the stock, trigger and windage knob. Not sure on gas block markings, I have some reading to do. Here's a bunch of pictures, thanks in advance for any comments on what all of the markings mean.
Looks like the front handguard is made of a different wood than the rest of the stock, maybe birch vs. walnut. Trying to decide whether to hit it with an aniline dye first, or just go straight to linseed oil with alkanet. Whatever they hit it with already is a pretty good match except for the dings. I'm going to lightly sand the front handguard to see how deep that finish goes.
Is it possible and/or a good idea to remove the remaining metal from the handguards before I start oiling?
I agree, be very carfull with rear handguard clip. I have been luck and only chipped the front handguard on a few that managed to stay hidden from view. Its not hard to remove really. I think if your going to sand and refinish it has to come off. Look at the correct tool and then fabricate one like it.
Just a fair warning. they do a ok job matching the wood/stain if you do strip/sand the finish off you may have a tough time matching it again. I have had my shares of issues....I personally would hit the entire stock with a red mahogany stain or just walnut stain on the red side of a tint. Make sure to use pure oil stain if you want to do a tung or BLO oil treatment after. Some stains contain sealers which will not let the tung/blo sink in.
I say for now. field strip and clean, get up early and come down to pembroke mass old coloney for a garand shoot 830am.
Just a fair warning. they do a ok job matching the wood/stain if you do strip/sand the finish off you may have a tough time matching it again. I have had my shares of issues....I personally would hit the entire stock with a red mahogany stain or just walnut stain on the red side of a tint. Make sure to use pure oil stain if you want to do a tung or BLO oil treatment after. Some stains contain sealers which will not let the tung/blo sink in.
I say for now. field strip and clean, get up early and come down to pembroke mass old coloney for a garand shoot 830am.
Won't be able to make it tomorrow, but I'll keep my eyes on the schedule and make one of the shoots after I get a chance to get everything back together and sighted in.
Was able to attach a pair of pins to the jaws of a vice and use that to gently spring open the handguard clip and roll the handguard out. Found some great advice online about paying attention to how one end of the clip is bent upward more than the other for op rod clearance.
Hit it with a reddish walnut stain, looking better already. After reading a few threads I'm leaning towards a few coats of Tru-oil as I've had great luck with that on other guns and this stock clearly isn't a collectors item. The hard part is going to be waiting for the oil to dry...
I like true oil myself. Have done several stocks in the past. Letting the oil really dry between coats is key. I am starting to like minwax tung oil finish also. I did my HRA with new wood with minwax tung oil finish. For all my others though I use pure tung oil. Give a week or 2 between coats and then start wet sanding with the oil after the 3 coat and it starts to look very nice with out that on top of the wood finish.
John380
NES Member
OK, here goes. 1953 serial number and has CMP wood which I haven't oiled yet. Muzzle =2 and Throat =3. I can't find anything visually wrong with it - looks brand new.
I shot it today and it was very accurate out of the box.
Here's the first shots from 50 yards benchrest with Greek M2 Ball - 7 of 7 in the 10 ring:
Next I hit two in the 9 ring from 200yards, without any adjustment on the back sight.
Finally, a whole lot of 100 yard shots with various 6 O'C and bullseye holds and not adjusting the sight.
This is a great rifle !
Quick range report on my HRA SG. Shoots better than I do. Three shots at 50 yds made a nice 1" group high and left. Adjusted down and right a few clicks based on the center of that group and put the 4th shot in the X. Lucky shot.. but still a nice cluster after that. Moved to 100 yds after that, everything on the paper.
Here's the first 10 shots at 100 yds (with a rest from the bench):
Very happy with the way this thing shoots!
Here's the first 10 shots at 100 yds (with a rest from the bench):
Very happy with the way this thing shoots!
Quick range report on my HRA SG. Shoots better than I do. Three shots at 50 yds made a nice 1" group high and left. Adjusted down and right a few clicks based on the center of that group and put the 4th shot in the X. Lucky shot.. but still a nice cluster after that. Moved to 100 yds after that, everything on the paper.
Here's the first 10 shots at 100 yds (with a rest from the bench):
Very happy with the way this thing shoots!
Where'd you get the 10 round clip??
![[wink]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/002.gif "Wink [wink]")
jk... congratulations and nice shooting!Quick range report on my HRA SG. Shoots better than I do. Three shots at 50 yds made a nice 1" group high and left. Adjusted down and right a few clicks based on the center of that group and put the 4th shot in the X. Lucky shot.. but still a nice cluster after that. Moved to 100 yds after that, everything on the paper.
Here's the first 10 shots at 100 yds (with a rest from the bench):
Very happy with the way this thing shoots!
I will assume you where aiming in the center. nice to have any garand out on the range!
Where'd you get the 10 round clip??
Ah that was eight first and then twist two bullets into the second clip to make 10. Practicing for the rapid fire.. still pretty awkward loading though.
I will assume you where aiming in the center. nice to have any garand out on the range!
I was trying to get used to the idea of 6 o'clock hold, focusing on the front sight. I think most of the stringing vertically was me and my tired eyes.
Or was I trying to shoot the number 3 into the paper? Maybe.. that HRA was saying, "You need a Springfield. A 3mil Springfield." Funny thing is my friend Steve was with me shooting his 3195xxx Springfield, so this isn't an implausible theory. Thanks, OldNorth, for pointing out the "3".. I hadn't seen it until you mentioned it.
Reloaded some rounds tonight, 150gr SMK and 168gr SMK over various weights of IMR-4895 using data from Hornady and Sierra load manuals. Hopefully find some nice groups on Saturday.
Thanks guys!
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Hey guys, in addition to posting pics, please remember to do the Garand collecting community a solid and add your rifle to the database.
USRifleCAL30M1.com
USRifleCAL30M1.com
OK, looks like mostly HRA parts except for the stock, trigger and windage knob. Not sure on gas block markings, I have some reading to do. Here's a bunch of pictures, thanks in advance for any comments on what all of the markings mean.
Looks like the front handguard is made of a different wood than the rest of the stock, maybe birch vs. walnut. Trying to decide whether to hit it with an aniline dye first, or just go straight to linseed oil with alkanet. Whatever they hit it with already is a pretty good match except for the dings. I'm going to lightly sand the front handguard to see how deep that finish goes.
Is it possible and/or a good idea to remove the remaining metal from the handguards before I start oiling?
Stryker
NES Member
Thanks for mentioning - updated the database with my two.
My first Garand arrived today! Here's my timeframe:
RM1HRAS M1 Garand HRA Service Grade
Serial #: 5592831
Order #476488
Sent application: 6/26/13
Received: 7/1/13
DBU: 7/15/13
Estore: 7/29/13
CC: 9/26/13
Ship: 9/27/13
Delivered: 9/30/13 (sitting at the fedex office, will be picking it up after work)
I'll post some pictures either later tonight or tomorrow.
RM1HRAS M1 Garand HRA Service Grade
Serial #: 5592831
Order #476488
Sent application: 6/26/13
Received: 7/1/13
DBU: 7/15/13
Estore: 7/29/13
CC: 9/26/13
Ship: 9/27/13
Delivered: 9/30/13 (sitting at the fedex office, will be picking it up after work)
I'll post some pictures either later tonight or tomorrow.
![[party]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/021.gif "Party [party]")
I like the lighter park on that! original barrel also,,,,nice original barrel with MW/TE readings 2 or less is basically a new rifle ! IHC trigger group, could easily sell or trade for a HRA, nice stock also good even color on all three parts. Dungood!Here's the pics:
Out of the box:
Cleaning up:
Clean!
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Here's the pics:
Out of the box:
Cleaning up:
Clean!
Nice gun, good wood, looks like its mostly original parts including the barrel and the windage knob which you don't see every day. While I can't see the full bolt markings, the only part I saw not HRA is the trigger group, which is IHC (some might find that more desirable).
You could dig into the drawing numbers to be sure, but it looks to me like your rifle is original. That stock is beautiful too.
