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AR Mega Thread

retro - the white oak barrel will determine which block you will use - they have 2 types: pinned, screw on - I went with a screw on type

Good to know - thanks for the info. I would like a screw-on type as well.

edmorseiii said:
Nice list. If you buy that WOA from Rainier Arms (http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=sho...product_id=449) and if you buy a bolt, or BCG, they will check the head space and match it.

I was looking at getting it from Rainier, they have a great site. I will probably try and get the barrel, BCG, and gas block from them all at once. Stupid question, but do barrels come with the necessary gas tube in general or are they purchased separately?
 
If you call Rainier they will do almost everything for you. I decided I wanted an adjustable gas block so I went with a JP Enterprise setup from else where.
 
If you order on line, know exactly, everything you will need - including the gas tube pin - so you won't have to order it separately and wait another week to assemble it all...

Just call and ask the help of the staff
 
I just got the DD BCG in the mail today and it is sweet. M16 carrier, chrome lined and a chrome lined gas key. Well worth the extra $20.

On the sights $160 is a little steep for a single rear sight. Keep in mind the DD upper for $360 has the FSB installed so you only need the rear sight. I got a Troy buis for $110 from brownells. Check it out:

5321783884_789b595f6c.jpg


5321783520_81454586ec.jpg
 
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I just got the DD BCG in the mail today and it is sweet. M16 carrier, chrome lined and a chrome lined gas key. Well worth the extra $20.

On the sights $160 is a little steep for a single rear sight. Keep in mind the DD upper for $360 has the FSB installed so you only need the rear sight. I got a Troy buis for $110 from brownells. Check it out:

http://flic.kr/p/97gwQh

http://flic.kr/p/97gwWy

Ah, sorry. The price I put up is for a pair of front and rear sights for a gas block with a rail.
 
I have been reading a ton about twist rates and I have a question most of the shooting will be done with 55gr ammo but I would like the ability to use heavier stuff 77gr? (not match ammo) at shorter ranges <300yrd/meters will a 1:9 be okay or do I need to look at 1:7
 
I personally went with 1/9 simply because I will mostly shoot the 55gr stuff, and rarely shoot anything heavier. If you're planning on going with a heavier round as your primary ammo, consider going with 1/7.
 
What, if anything, do people use as far as grease and/or loctite on assembly? I was going to use a decent grease for the barrel nut and barrel extension. Should I use red loctite on the set screws of my gas block?
 
What, if anything, do people use as far as grease and/or loctite on assembly? I was going to use a decent grease for the barrel nut and barrel extension. Should I use red loctite on the set screws of my gas block?

I use anti-seize on the barrel nut.

I would use the blue loctite on the gas block just in case you need to remove it for any reason.
 
What, if anything, do people use as far as grease and/or loctite on assembly? I was going to use a decent grease for the barrel nut and barrel extension. Should I use red loctite on the set screws of my gas block?

I use grease or anti-seize on the barrel nut. You can put green loctite #609 on the barrel under the gas block. Red loctite on the screws
 
I have been reading a ton about twist rates and I have a question most of the shooting will be done with 55gr ammo but I would like the ability to use heavier stuff 77gr? (not match ammo) at shorter ranges <300yrd/meters will a 1:9 be okay or do I need to look at 1:7

I've shot with guys using 1/7 shooting 55gr at 150 yards at a 12x12' plate and getting solid hits while running and gunning.
 
Yep, get some 55gr, bench the rifle and see if it will shoots it well. Every barrel is different.
My 1/7 WOA doesn't seem to like 55gr. It does like 69gr. so if I am shooting groups or over 300 yards, I use 69gr
At a past match, Noidlight shot the best score at 600 yards with 55gr with a 1/7 WOA, his barrel likes 55gr
 
Yep, get some 55gr, bench the rifle and see if it will shoots it well. Every barrel is different.
My 1/7 WOA doesn't seem to like 55gr. It does like 69gr. so if I am shooting groups or over 300 yards, I use 69gr
At a past match, Noidlight shot the best score at 600 yards with 55gr with a 1/7 WOA, his barrel likes 55gr

Yup - there's no magic equation. Barrel-to-barrel, it's a good idea to test and see what works. I've shot 55gr exclusively since I got my LMT 1:7. It shot well, but never really well. Since buying some Privi 62gr M855, I've seen my groups just flat-out shrink. I haven't run anything heavier in it yet, but am looking forward to trying heavier boolits out...
 
Yep, get some 55gr, bench the rifle and see if it will shoots it well. Every barrel is different.
My 1/7 WOA doesn't seem to like 55gr. It does like 69gr. so if I am shooting groups or over 300 yards, I use 69gr
At a past match, Noidlight shot the best score at 600 yards with 55gr with a 1/7 WOA, his barrel likes 55gr

That's interesting that there is so much variation.

I would think at 600 yards you would see variation depending on twist and bullet weight but the OP is shooting <300 yards, do you think he would see a major variation between 1/7 and 1/9?
 
So green loctite from say 4 o'clock to 8 o'clock?

Thanks.

I would go all the way around. I don't use it on my rifles, As I like to take stuff apart all the time. But if I was was going to build a rifle and not screw with it all the time. I would use it

That's interesting that there is so much variation.

I would think at 600 yards you would see variation depending on twist and bullet weight but the OP is shooting <300 yards, do you think he would see a major variation between 1/7 and 1/9?

Its going to come down to the individual barrel. 1:9 isn't going to optimal for 77gr at any range. It should shoot 55gr fine as should a 1/7, but you never know until you try. My WOA shoots about 1/2 the size at 100 yards with 69gr compared to 55gr. My 1/9 shoots 55gr well enough that I haven't cared to try 69gr
 
I would go all the way around. I don't use it on my rifles, As I like to take stuff apart all the time. But if I was was going to build a rifle and not screw with it all the time. I would use it

Shouldn't I stay somewhat away from the gas port at least? I assume even if I cover 2/3 to 3/4 of the area, I'm still getting the benefit.

I basically want to be able to get this upper apart if needed but I don't plan on doing frequent changes to it. The place I bought it from recommended pinning but I didn't want it that permanent.
 
Shouldn't I stay somewhat away from the gas port at least? I assume even if I cover 2/3 to 3/4 of the area, I'm still getting the benefit.

I basically want to be able to get this upper apart if needed but I don't plan on doing frequent changes to it. The place I bought it from recommended pinning but I didn't want it that permanent.

Any loctite that gets to the gas port will be blown out by the 60K psi. Run a patch through the barrel to clean any loctite out of there. You don't need to use much
 
Billet Matched Upper and Lower (Remsport / TNW)
14.5" M4 Barrel Stainless Steel Bead Blasted (Remsport)
Bolt Carrier Assembly (BCM)
Sights (Yankee Hill Machine)
Gas Block (Yankee Hill Machine)
Muzzle Break (Yankee Hill Machine)
Optics (Nikon M223)
Charging Handle (BCM Gunfighter)
Lower Parts Kit (Bushmaster)
2 Stage Trigger (Rock River Arms)
Quad Rail Forearm (Yankee Hill Machine)
6-Pos Collapsible Stock (DPMS) [to be pinned]

That's the final build sheet. Only thing that hasn't been purchased yet is the gas tube, the gas block, and the optics.
 
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