3D printing

Kevin_NH said:
Most use "Elmer's Purple School Glue", that appears to be Scotch's equivalent?

Works great for PLA and PETG. Advanced filaments, like ABS & Nylon, may require more advanced adhesrives.
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Pla is all I am toying with for now. We are just printing things for my boy. Learning on the go is a real eye opener.
 
Fixxah said:
I saw a video where the print hangs down which is interesting. I am not dumping a lot of noney into this but even the little stuff adds up fast.

Is this glue what I need for the glass bed?
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Yes but you shouldn't need it for PLA.
If pla is coming off the bed at 60°C then one or more of the following is going on:
1 - not enough first layer squish: adjust z offset

2 - build plate is dirty: good scrub in the sink followed by a wiped down with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol.

3 - If your printer is in a cold location you need to preheat your bed for at least 5 minutes to allow the print surface to reach temp (the bed temperature is measured right by the heater not at the build plate

If you are printing PETG on glass you need to use the glue as a release agent since PETG loves to adhere strong enough to chip out glass.
If you use glue clean the bed well, apply the glue then heat the bed up to dry it out.

If printing ABS then dissolving a few grams of ABS in 50ml of acetone then painting the bed with a thin coating will get great adhesion.
 
Fixxah said:
I saw a video where the print hangs down which is interesting. I am not dumping a lot of noney into this but even the little stuff adds up fast.

Is this glue what I need for the glass bed?
Click to expand...
pastera said:
Yes but you shouldn't need it for PLA.
If pla is coming off the bed at 60°C then one or more of the following is going on:
1 - not enough first layer squish: adjust z offset

2 - build plate is dirty: good scrub in the sink followed by a wiped down with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol.

3 - If your printer is in a cold location you need to preheat your bed for at least 5 minutes to allow the print surface to reach temp (the bed temperature is measured right by the heater not at the build plate

If you are printing PETG on glass you need to use the glue as a release agent since PETG loves to adhere strong enough to chip out glass.
If you use glue clean the bed well, apply the glue then heat the bed up to dry it out.

If printing ABS then dissolving a few grams of ABS in 50ml of acetone then painting the bed with a thin coating will get great adhesion.
Click to expand...
The glass bed on my old Robo3D needed glue for everything. I used Aquanet Super Hold spray, but glue stick should work fine. Both are PVA glues.

BTW, I found Windex removes PVA glue faster than soap and water.
 
cockpitbob said:
The glass bed on my old Robo3D needed glue for everything. I used Aquanet Super Hold spray, but glue stick should work fine. Both are PVA glues.

BTW, I found Windex removes PVA glue faster than soap and water.
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I watched a video and these guys use windex on the glue, then a razor, and finally isopropyl. They applied a coating of glue, let it dry and then covered the glass again perpendicular to the first coating after it dried.
 
cockpitbob said:
The glass bed on my old Robo3D needed glue for everything. I used Aquanet Super Hold spray, but glue stick should work fine. Both are PVA glues.

BTW, I found Windex removes PVA glue faster than soap and water.
Click to expand...

OP is talking about an Ender 3 - I've been printing on a Creality glass for years with no glue with PLA.

Not sure which Robo 3d printer you had issues with but the Ender 3 build surfaces don't need glue for PLA if the bed is heated to 50-60°C
 
Fixxah said:
I watched a video and these guys use windex on the glue, then a razor, and finally isopropyl. They applied a coating of glue, let it dry and then covered the glass again perpendicular to the first coating after it dried.
Click to expand...
If you have a clean, level print surface you shouldn't need glue stick for PLA

Yes, glue can cover up other issues and appear to work miracles but for a coated, clean build surface it shouldn't be needed.
 
bigblue said:
Bringing this back up again
Click to expand...
which AMS.

The AMS vs AMS lite, it depends less on the AMS and more on the printer. For instance the A1 Mini, A1, P1P, should really just be PLA, PETG, TPU, and PVA. Its not really the AMS being the limiting factor. More so the fact that they are not enclosed.

Having an enclosed chamber, and even better a heated chamber allows you to work with ASA, ABS, PET, PC, and other exotic filaments
 
nightpoison said:
which AMS.

The AMS vs AMS lite, it depends less on the AMS and more on the printer. For instance the A1 Mini, A1, P1P, should really just be PLA, PETG, TPU, and PVA. Its not really the AMS being the limiting factor. More so the fact that they are not enclosed.

Having an enclosed chamber, and even better a heated chamber allows you to work with ASA, ABS, PET, PC, and other exotic filaments
Click to expand...

That was a lot of words, none of which answered either question.

He posted about the P1S, which is what I asked about. Compared to the Qidi printers.

I am not asking you how or what I need to print nylon. I already do that.

The questions are: How is the P1S, do you use the AMS and does it print nylon?

What is the best nylon capable printer around $1k? X1C? Qidi x max 3? The Flashforge Guider 2S v2 is also a bit more but similar capabilities. Seems crowded around $1k?
 
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bigblue said:
That was a lot of words, none of which answered either question.

He posted about the P1S, which is what I asked about. Compared to the Qidi printers.

I am not asking you how or what I need to print nylon. I already do that.

The questions are: How is the P1S, do you use the AMS and does it print nylon?

What is the best nylon capable printer under $1k?
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Yea sorry, sounded like you were asking about printing with an AMS.
 
On any printer, if you're going to print CF/GF filled you will want a hardened extruder gear and hardened print nozzle and maybe move up to a .6 or even .8 nozzle.

bigblue said:
Just curious about it. I read that the AMS can’t do cf nylon bc it will damage the nozzles
Click to expand...
What nozzle is in the AMS? Bambu warns that any AMS may suffer "wear to AMS PTFE tubes during the printing process" when used with abrasive filaments, e.g. CF or GF filament, but also states that the PTFE tubes are consumables, so you're eventually going to need to replace them no matter what filament is used.

If you see yourself getting into advanced filaments, go with the X1C for the hotter build plate, hardened nozzle and gears, LiDAR , etc.
 
Kevin_NH said:
On any printer, if you're going to print CF/GF filled you will want a hardened extruder gear and hardened print nozzle and maybe move up to a .6 or even .8 nozzle.


What nozzle is in the AMS? Bambu warns that any AMS may suffer "wear to AMS PTFE tubes during the printing process" when used with abrasive filaments, e.g. CF or GF filament, but also states that the PTFE tubes are consumables, so you're eventually going to need to replace them no matter what filament is used.

If you see yourself getting into advanced filaments, go with the X1C for the hotter build plate, hardened nozzle and gears, LiDAR , etc.
Click to expand...

Yeah the tubes take quite a while to wear though. I have a home built AMS, before they had an AMS, using a tote and rollers.

I print PA6GF & CF on an Ender 5 Pro so the idea is something that can do higher quality, faster, and more reliably than what the Ender can do.

The X1C is def interesting with lidar and better software but Flashforge has printers in that range too. Just wondering which is the best for Nylon 6, 12, & the GF/CF. It all needs to be annealed regardless.

Bambu better than Qidi? And Flashforge?
Bambu print volume is 256 cubed
Qidi is 325x325x315
Flashforge is 280x250x300

Anything else I should look at in that price range?

Snapmaker J1S?
 
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I have issues with this thing now. Leveling via a test pattern should fix things once the file is downloaded but one of the sites tossed a fake mcafee virus in the mix and being a rock and spear guy puts this out of reach for the moment.
 
Keep in mind the glue stick is actually used for the opposite of what you think, it helps the prints release from the bed, I have used hairspray as well. A properly cleaned bed is key! I use the good stuff, 99% isopropyl and a pair of gloves with a lint free cloth.
Not a fan of glass beds either, I use the flexible metal textured magnetic beds. Take the sheet off when your print is done and flex it a few times to help release the print.
My latest project, a 1/5 scale SkiDoo RC. For the exception of the hardware and electronics it is 100% 3D printed. Dollar bill for scale. IMG_5815.jpeg
IMG_5772.jpeg
 
This is a bit of a stretch, but is there software that can slice a topo map and print that terrain?

I can crudely use some CAD software, but the key there is crude. Building terrain by hand... no.
 
I want to try out a hueforge print, but most of the files I can find ue 5 or more filaments. Thre are some with 4 or less, but all the good ones need more than 4, Which is where the AMS really comes into its own I would think.

1709692798407.png
 
I have one coming today. No idea if it has metal supports but it has led lighting which is a plus to me.
 

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Enclosure is a huge improvement. I built mine using foam board.

To be fair, I also print PA6-GF & CF with my Ender 5 Pro so the enclosure is necessary.
 
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I actually think the Qidi I-Fast is my “buy once, cry once” solution.

Qidi appears to have great support, it has a large print volume with dual extruders that go up to 350 in a 60 degree hested chamber.

It doesn’t have independent dual extruders though, hmmm
 
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