cockpitbob
NES Member
There's lots of good mag loader designs on thingiverse.
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3D printing
- Thread starter NH Phantom
- Start date
I prefer Sterilite's clear "gasket box" totes, easier to see the contents and to remove one spool without digging.
pastera
NES Member
I just use plastic totes
Bucket is likely better
I use totes with desiccant, spools on spool holders fed out through a nozzle and to the printer.
edin508
NES Member
I use small needle nose pliers. Another tip is to change your support type, use tree supports instead of standard supports.
Fixxah
NES Member
That is a great idea. Thanks for the tip. I saw that in a video and totally forgot to change the setting
edin508
NES Member
I would, as the support isn't going to be doing its job when it needs to.
Fixxah
NES Member
Going to run it for a while and see what happens. It is a scaled down dragon skull from skyrim and has only been printing the support so far and isn't any different from the other side to me anyway. I noticed some of the prints say there may be an error and will fix a problem before diwnloading. Not sure if it was in cura or thingiverse.
edin508
NES Member
Still trying to figure out why you got so much spaghetti like that. Was there a support that messed up from the start?
Either way, re slice it with tree supports and try again. It certainly is a learning curve with those Enders.
nightpoison
NES Member
Orca
Fixxah
NES Member
I didn't see a tree option in creality slicer. Just minimal supoort where needed. No idea why the noodles were there. Maybe my son bumped it early on?
We shall see where this new one ends up.
cockpitbob
NES Member
The engineering dept at work recently inherited a Stratasys from the manufacturing guys. They use ASA and soluble support material. Meh. The quality wasn't anything special and its speed was about the same as my Prusa and I'm sure it's slower than the hopped-up printers some of you guys have.
lazypengu1n
NES Member
I made an ejector removal took for Beretta and went down the rabbit hole from there.
edin508
NES Member
I got rid of my ender, it was too much work to keep it running ok. The local high school gladly took it, I just wanted it gone!
I now run a Prusa MK3s+ and my newest printer is a Bambu P1S. The Prusa is nice machine and has never done me wrong, it has over 1500 hours of printing time with minimal f-ups. The few times it did was user error, all on me. Now with the Bambu, holy hell is that a fast printer! It had a Benchy pre installed on the SD card so I had to give it a try and it took less than 20 minutes and looked better than the one my Prusa did which took more than twice that amount of time to print. Also love the fact it has WiFi built in and I just zap a file to it. I did add WiFi with Octoprint to the Prusa but the Bambu still has it beat. Being in an enclosure is also nice, keeps the noise down and some heat in.
Fixxah
NES Member
VetteGirlMA
NES Member
I use elmers glue and I have a boro-silicate glass bed for my printer. It works really well keeping the first layer on the plate.
namedpipes
NES Member
Fixxah
NES Member
I love dykes.
Do you have the AMS? Does it print more than PLA? Nylon, ABS, etc?
Doesn’t look it. So I guess the next question: Best printer (out of the box) for nylon under $1k?
Qidi x max 3?
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Dykes are super useful.
Fixxah
NES Member
I have those and others. Needle nose flush cutters too along with a visit to HF for an exacto set.
namedpipes
NES Member
Exacto's are also useful in finishing P80s.
So are Dremels, fwiw.
Fixxah
NES Member
The minimal supoort setting was great. The main portion popped right out. My plan for tomorrow is to install the glass bed. I watched a video and it looks simple to adjust the switch to compensate for the glass thickness and then leveling again.
