3D printing

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I printed several UBAR lowers and despite hours of fiddling and calibration, I couldn't get one made that would feed reliably without jamming every few rounds due to one dimension or another being slightly off, so I shelved that project. I don't have the patience for 3D2A, but love seeing other people's builds.
 

NH Phantom

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HAHA No I got 6 printers and getting back into reloading. not looking to make gun parts.LOL
I have a Dillon 650 tool holder stand on the printer now.
 

Michael J. Spangler

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The usual files from thingiverse. Lots of Dillon accessories. I’m too lazy to design anything myself and too paranoid to print anything really cool.

My printers coolness wore off after a month and a half. I’m sure I’ll find some more stuff to print.
 

ddeck22

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I did the case feeder for my Hornady LnL along with some other stuff for my Lee APP. I’m currently working on an annealer with some 3d parts.

I also printed a bunch of 38 special ammo boxes since the commercial ones don’t allow me to put them rim down. This way i can use them as reloading trays when i inspect the cases before using them.

I also printed a 9 mm versus 380 sorter for a person here. I use mine to catch any 380 before they make it through the case feeder.

Pretty much anything that i don’t want to buy or is a specialty part i just design and build. And i’m in no way a great designer. I use FreeCad.
 

NH Phantom

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I did the case feeder for my Hornady LnL along with some other stuff for my Lee APP. I’m currently working on an annealer with some 3d parts.

I also printed a bunch of 38 special ammo boxes since the commercial ones don’t allow me to put them rim down. This way i can use them as reloading trays when i inspect the cases before using them.

I also printed a 9 mm versus 380 sorter for a person here. I use mine to catch any 380 before they make it through the case feeder.

Pretty much anything that i don’t want to buy or is a specialty part i just design and build. And i’m in no way a great designer. I use FreeCad.
Did you print the feeder that is on Thingiverse?
 

pastera

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If you want the bullet feeder go through cast bullets - the ones on Thingiverse are not always up to date

I'm not doing a lot of gun related designs lately but I have several designs on Thingiverse that I have published, but I don't publish everything.

Currently working on printed bending jigs for the rails on FDMA lowers - you can buy a set for $40-50 but I want to create a way for people to easily do it at home.
I had some prototype rear rail flats cut for a couple of dollars but they can be done at home by printing out a template on paper then gluing and dremeling.
So far all it takes is a bench vise, a hammer and 1/4" steel plate as an anvil with a couple of printed jigs.
 

EMTDAD

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paul73

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on ideas of what to 3d print - i just paid $11 for that, as, damn, i ain`t spending a $100 for a proper rear sight for it.
cursing my lazy ass for not driving to cambridge to get that 3d printer deal. i even got a coupon in text, but, did not want to go to pick it up.
 

paul73

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pinging @scheming :)
-----------
What AJK said. Make sure everything works and you're able to print successfully. It should come with a small sample of (garbage quality) PLA filament, enough for like half a test piece.
So you should definitely get some more filament --> 1.75mm PLA in 1kg rolls. Inland brand from Microcenter is good stuff if you're nearby, otherwise eSun, Hatchbox, Overture and Reprapper have been good to me.

Afterwards, upgrade the bed springs to yellow springs or silicone, and replace with metal extruder, kit with both is $10-15.
Other optional QoL upgrades:
$10-35 Automatic Bed Level, many options(BL touch, CR touch, 3D touch, etc)
$10 capricorn ptfe tube
$20 PEI bed
$5 filament runout sensor
$20-60 dehydrator or filament dryer to dry "wet" filament.. oven can be used, but not recommended
$$$ Raspberry pi for octoprint --> remote managemnt software

-------------

so, i was looking at that ender model before, and i think it would work for almost all i care about.
i ordered so far only this 'upgrade' - Dual Z-axis Upgrade Kit with Lead Screw

View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09N8QQDSP


what i wonder about - as i want to be able to print carbon pla - is it worth, at all, getting this one:

View: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Direct-Extruder-Creality-Printers/dp/B08CGN18KJ
 

scheming

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so, i was looking at that ender model before, and i think it would work for almost all i care about.
i ordered so far only this 'upgrade' - Dual Z-axis Upgrade Kit with Lead Screw

View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09N8QQDSP


what i wonder about - as i want to be able to print carbon pla - is it worth, at all, getting this one:

View: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Direct-Extruder-Creality-Printers/dp/B08CGN18KJ

If it's carbon pla, it'll print below 250ºc, so you can just use the stock setup. It'll easily handle it, no need to change anything. You definitely could upgrade, but it's not needed for that particular application.

Same for the dual z, it's nice, but most people leave it alone unless they have other issues that need fixing.
 

paul73

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Same for the dual z, it's nice, but most people leave it alone unless they have other issues that need fixing.
cancelled it for now, and saved into the list. will see.
so far i got this stuff, on top of the printer order. critique pls. spool holder i could print myself, it figures. :) may return it later.
i want also some carbon filament, but not sure yet which one.
1663723727413.png
 

NH Phantom

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Not sure off hand. I can find out in a day or so. Did you order a printer already? Petg is tougher to use than pla. You may want to get pla. I got 3-4 printers. Ender 3 with quiet boards. Springs. Cap tube.
 

pastera

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pinging @scheming :)
-----------
What AJK said. Make sure everything works and you're able to print successfully. It should come with a small sample of (garbage quality) PLA filament, enough for like half a test piece.
So you should definitely get some more filament --> 1.75mm PLA in 1kg rolls. Inland brand from Microcenter is good stuff if you're nearby, otherwise eSun, Hatchbox, Overture and Reprapper have been good to me.

Afterwards, upgrade the bed springs to yellow springs or silicone, and replace with metal extruder, kit with both is $10-15.
Other optional QoL upgrades:
$10-35 Automatic Bed Level, many options(BL touch, CR touch, 3D touch, etc)
$10 capricorn ptfe tube
$20 PEI bed
$5 filament runout sensor
$20-60 dehydrator or filament dryer to dry "wet" filament.. oven can be used, but not recommended
$$$ Raspberry pi for octoprint --> remote managemnt software

-------------

so, i was looking at that ender model before, and i think it would work for almost all i care about.
i ordered so far only this 'upgrade' - Dual Z-axis Upgrade Kit with Lead Screw

View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09N8QQDSP


what i wonder about - as i want to be able to print carbon pla - is it worth, at all, getting this one:

View: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Direct-Extruder-Creality-Printers/dp/B08CGN18KJ

Carbon PLA should run fine in a stock ender 3 with just a hardened nozzle.

I haven't gone past simple mods on my Ender 3 because I picked up a Tronxy X5SA pro for cheap - if you can find the pro model for under $300 and you are willing to put some learning time in, it's a big upgrade from a Ender 3. Difference is the Ender is easy to assemble and hard to get wrong not so for the X5SA.
But with the X5SA you get 300mm cubed volume and 2.5x faster printing out if the box.

I agree with your ender upgrade list - all the cheap mods that make life easier.
Dryer is ESSENTIAL if you are going to print with anything but PLA and even that will get brittle and fail if too wet.
 
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