WTF- Ruger MKiii Help Needed

Good to hear it roadblock! So my last idea was the right idea, the safety was a tad out of place, causing it to catch the inside of the frame where the MSH seats. Wow.
I've got a friend's Ruger 22/45 that I'm putting a Volquartsen sear in for him. I started to show him how to do it himself, but he said, "no way, I'm not trying that. I'll buy dinner, you put my gun together!" [grin]
 
45collector said:
So my last idea was the right idea, the safety was a tad out of place, causing it to catch the inside of the frame where the MSH seats. Wow.
Click to expand...

Exactly! But not in the "locked" position. Apparently if you put it in "all the way" it sticks out the OTHER side (which you can't see). Go figure!
 
Nice. well now you've got that part down. Have you tried disassembling all the guts in the receiver yet? I replaced the sear in a friend's 22/45 last night and it took me about 20 minutes. That gun is mechanically identical to the MKIII. When I first got my MKIII, it took me a couple hours to completely dis-, and reassemble the gun.
 
Oh yeah...once I figured out what the issue was- I am a champ at taking it apart/putting it back together. I need the photos online as a "reminder"...but I spent so long researching what could have possibly been wrong- now its all second nature.

I guess a blessing in disguise- although it did result in me shelling out $60 for new grips.

I really appreciate the help of you and the other folks on here (again).
 
This is why I was hesitant to get a mkIII and now I am regretting it big time. Anyone want to buy mine? It's brand new, never been fired.
 
One of the guys at our club stripped his mark III and the one thing that we forgot to do is to put back in the mag to drop the hammer - after that had to line up the little pin before closing the back strut.....

Problem he had after that so sometimes the trigger would not reset - he was going to go home and strip it again and give it a good cleaning.....
 
JOHNNY P said:
This is why I was hesitant to get a mkIII and now I am regretting it big time. Anyone want to buy mine? It's brand new, never been fired.
Click to expand...

Ahhh, it's not that bad! Just follow the directions. It's a badge of honor to be able to field strip a ruger with out the manual!
 
Gee... I don't understand!!!

Everyone tells me that it's not so hard... I guess we must all be stupid or something. [rolleyes]

Sorry... I'll take my Mark II, thanks. Ruger seriously screwed the pooch on the Mark III's takedown procedures.
 
Once you've gotten it apart and fully understand how all the parts work together, it really isn't that hard.

I do agree though that the Mark II and earlier models are much easier on folks who aren't familiar with design.
 
I already want to get rid of mine now and it's brand new never been fired. What good is a gun that you have to take to NASA to get cleaned
 
dwarven1 said:
Gee... I don't understand!!!

Everyone tells me that it's not so hard... I guess we must all be stupid or something. [rolleyes]

Sorry... I'll take my Mark II, thanks. Ruger seriously screwed the pooch on the Mark III's takedown procedures.
Click to expand...


Maybe it's just that I'm a genius then?
 
It's been said before and I'll say it again.

The gun does NOT have to be field stripped to be be effectively cleaned:

1: Lock the bolt back.

2: Spray a bunch of (insert favorite aeresol based cleaner here) in the action.

3: Clean the barrel as you would normally.

4: Use a q-tip to get out any excess cleaner or gunk in the action.

5: I use some M-Pro7 after the aeresol cleaner just to make sure there nothing trapped in the action (Carbon flaking, lead, marmosets etc)

6: A light dab of oil on the bolt face, and a lightly oiled patch down the barrel followed by a clean dry patch.

7: Done.

I took mine apart once.

ONCE.

Never again.

If you really need to take the gun apart, there's always this:

http://majesticarms.com/id10.html

I don't own one of these kits, but it seems pretty cool.


Hope this helps!


Baron Corneilius Von Foopenheim
 
I said it before, but it's worth saying it again... watch this video. With the MkIII the only thing that is more of a PITA (over a MkII) is you need to insert a magazine to manipulate the hammer. If it bothers you that much order one of these and you won't have to anymore. You can then dry fire it without a magazine as well. While you've got it taken apart drop one of these in and you'll have a sweet 2-2.5 lb trigger.

If people really hate their MkIII's that bad, I'll gladly give you 50 cents on the dollar for them. [smile] [wink]
 
Fooped said:
It's been said before and I'll say it again.

The gun does NOT have to be field stripped to be be effectively cleaned:

1: Lock the bolt back.

2: Spray a bunch of (insert favorite aeresol based cleaner here) in the action.

3: Clean the barrel as you would normally.

4: Use a q-tip to get out any excess cleaner or gunk in the action.

5: I use some M-Pro7 after the aeresol cleaner just to make sure there nothing trapped in the action (Carbon flaking, lead, marmosets etc)

6: A light dab of oil on the bolt face, and a lightly oiled patch down the barrel followed by a clean dry patch.

7: Done.

I took mine apart once.

ONCE.

Never again.

If you really need to take the gun apart, there's always this:

http://majesticarms.com/id10.html

I don't own one of these kits, but it seems pretty cool.


Hope this helps!


what type of spray cleaner do you use?
Click to expand...
 
Well, maybe I got lucky and got a good one, but as the happy new owner of a new Ruger MkIII (stainless bull barrel), I don't understand what the problem is with field stripping.

As a bit of background, I've never owned a firearm before, much less field-stripped one. This is my first.

After putting about 100 rounds through my new MkIII, I brought it home and with great trepidation, took out the manual and set out to strip it. I was prepared and expecting to return to the Blue Northern with a box of gun parts and a look of frustration on my face, to beg for help.

But it was cake. The only "tool" I needed was a paperclip to initially pull out the backstrap lever. It came apart with no trouble; I didn't even need a mallet to get the barrel/receiver off the grip frame.

It also went back together without a hiccup. All I did was follow the manual instructions exactly.

I suppose machining tolerances could result in some examples that are harder to strip?
 
My brand-new (still unfired at this point) MkIII 22/45 caused me some trouble, but now is fine.

I followed the manual until I couldn't get the bolt stop pin out of the upper receiver. Unfortuntely, as I was trying to knock the pin out, I moved the bolt, which re-cocked the hammer. At this point, I was in the same condition as the OP... can't go forward, can't go back!

With some help from these posts, the videos available on Ruger & YouTube, and the troubleshooting sites linked from this thread (Thanks everyone!), I had an understanding of what needed to be done... I just couldn't get it to work!

Thanks to a call from Scouter-Rick, and by following these instructions, I got it apart:

scouter-rick said:
Been there, got the T-Shirt.

Pull the Main spring lever out like you were trying to remove the main spring to disassemble it. It will stop and not allow you to remove it. While repeatedly attempting to remove the main spring assembly start tilting the gun through rotation starting with barrel pointed down and rotate till barrel points up while pulling on the main spring.

A few times doing this and you should find a spot where the main spring lever comes all the way out and the main spring releases. Once this happens disassemble the gun and then reassemble making sure to carefully follow the step about closing the main spring.
Click to expand...

My initial problem with making these instructions work was that I didn't have a magazine inserted, so the trigger didn't allow the hammer to move... I needed to insert the magazine when the spring was open, then rotate the pistol up and down until the hammer fell the right way.

Re-assambly was also fun, but at least I didn't get it all bound up! I ended up working the bolt stop pin back and forth several times, and lubed it well so it shouldn't be so tight next time.

from JohnnyP:

If you really need to take the gun apart, there's always this:

http://majesticarms.com/id10.html

I don't own one of these kits, but it seems pretty cool.
Click to expand...

... that looks VERY interesting! Has anyone seen this mod installed?

Thanks again for your help Rick and everyone!
 
zzrider said:
I suppose machining tolerances could result in some examples that are harder to strip?
Click to expand...

Certainly. While I have had no problem following directions (They work 100% of the time if people actually follow them as intended) I did need to use a disturbing amount of force to knock the receiver clear of the frame the first disassembly.

After that, its gone together and come apart pretty easilly...but like women, I guess I'd rather have a tight gun than a loose gun.
 

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