Trigger Lock (pic)

Kicker96FS

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What do you think of a trigger lock like this? You can not pull the trigger, you can not rack the slide. The clear plastic tubing is to protect the finish only, if it was not there and only had the bare shackle, you could still not do anything.
No key to loose or fumble with.
 

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In general, I'm not a fan of trigger locks, and I'd recommend one of those lockable, padded steel boxes instead.

1) Protects the gun as well as secures it.

2) Keeps the gun a bit out of sight as well as secure.

3) When used with the wire loop, secures the gun against asportation as well as unauthorized function.

4) No slower, and possibly faster, to bring into action.

5) Avoids any issue involved with threading something through the trigger guard.

Most trigger lock devices have poor locks that can be readily defeated. From the photo, I'd guess that a person who knows what he is doing could defeat that tumbler in about 15 seconds.
 
In general, I'm not a fan of trigger locks, and I'd recommend one of those lockable, padded steel boxes instead.

1) Protects the gun as well as secures it.

2) Keeps the gun a bit out of sight as well as secure.

3) When used with the wire loop, secures the gun against asportation as well as unauthorized function.

4) No slower, and possibly faster, to bring into action.

5) Avoids any issue involved with threading something through the trigger guard.

Most trigger lock devices have poor locks that can be readily defeated. From the photo, I'd guess that a person who knows what he is doing could defeat that tumbler in about 15 seconds.

Yeah, I agree. I had thought of all those things but then I would need at least 4 boxes. One at home, one in each car, and one at work. At least this way I have a legal way to secure my firearm.

While at work, I lock it in this fashon and then it is locked in a cabnet in my office, at home it resides in a handy place, locked, and if I am out, it does not stay in the car, it is with me, it is concealed.
 
Four Seasons sold me a generic padlock for a trigger lock when I bought my MKIII...I never thought of attaching it like that. I figured it was a feeble attempt to meet the law about selling trigger locks with guns.
 
It's a trigger lock so it sucks. Get a lockbox or even a soft case that takes a lock to comply with the law instead.

Trigger locks are a joke on a good day and a safety hazard on the worst day.

-Mike
 
Four Seasons sold me a generic padlock for a trigger lock when I bought my MKIII...I never thought of attaching it like that.

The one on the MKIII is supposed to go through the bolt when the bolt is open. EG, if you pull back the bolt, stick the lock through the space behind the bolt, now the bolt cannot close (so the gun can't fire or even fully chamber a round). The ruger setup is actually a little more robust than
normal.

-Mike
 
The one on the MKIII is supposed to go through the bolt when the bolt is open. EG, if you pull back the bolt, stick the lock through the space behind the bolt, now the bolt cannot close (so the gun can't fire or even fully chamber a round). The ruger setup is actually a little more robust than
normal.

-Mike

Yeah when I bought my MKIII at FS I got a nice Ruger padlock with it. It did work well as described above. Then I let my son use it (the lock not the MKIII) and it was gone. But I prefer using a big safe anyway. This will not only keep the gun safe but pretty much ensures it's not going anywhere without me.
 
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It's a trigger lock so it sucks. Get a lockbox or even a soft case that takes a lock to comply with the law instead.

Trigger locks are a joke on a good day and a safety hazard on the worst day.

-Mike

This.

Trigger locks are for bitches. [hmmm]

Unsafe and infective.
 
Bahhh. Trigger locks are like sheepskin condoms. They're only good for telling people you have "some sort of protection"
 
Four Seasons sold me a generic padlock for a trigger lock when I bought my MKIII...I never thought of attaching it like that. I figured it was a feeble attempt to meet the law about selling trigger locks with guns.

The generic lock goes through the back of the bolt when the bolt is locked open. Put in an empty mag, pull the bolt back until it locks, put the lock in the space at the back of the lock
 
That list only applies to dealers.

I did not know that. So, are you saying we can pretty much put on ANY trigger lock we'd like? I thought we had to follow some guidelines. I'm not saying I like that, just that this was what I thought was the case.

Plus it hasn't been updated in almost 3 years.

Yeah, but it is all we have.
 
The generic lock goes through the back of the bolt when the bolt is locked open. Put in an empty mag, pull the bolt back until it locks, put the lock in the space at the back of the lock

Storing guns with the slide back and the recoil spring compressed over time will weaken the recoil spring.

Recently I held a 1911 that had been stored with the slide back. There was no resistance left in the spring.
 
Storing guns with the slide back and the recoil spring compressed over time will weaken the recoil spring.

Recently I held a 1911 that had been stored with the slide back. There was no resistance left in the spring.

You can always let the slide down slowly onto the lock. Having the spring compressed like 20% of the way is not going to cause problems with the spring.

-Mike
 
Storing guns with the slide back and the recoil spring compressed over time will weaken the recoil spring.

Recently I held a 1911 that had been stored with the slide back. There was no resistance left in the spring.

Usually what weakens springs is the constant compressing and decompressing of working the action. Supposedly you can keep a magazine loaded for years and not have any serious spring weakening. Of course, I don't store any of my guns with the slide locked back, but I'll be sure to check that the bolt on my AR is forward, and the hammer forward before storing. Likewise on the SKS. Likewise on the hammers of my shotguns. Likewise with the assisted-opening springs in my Kershaws. Likewise with the tension on my clay pigeon thrower... Ok now I'm being ridiculous. :)
 
Every material has an elastic (flexes and returns to original shape) and a plastic (bends and stays bent) range of motion, those ranges vary by material. The ranges are also effected by temperature.
Technically a spring can be compressed and kept compressed and as long as it's not flexed into the plastic range it will not get weaker.
Problem is, making sure the spring metal is kept in the elastic range is a matter to quality material and engineering. Cost cutting will result in hitting the plastic phase sooner therefore, to be on the safe side its better to keep the springs as relaxed as possible to make sure it doesn't end up just over in the plastic range.
 
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