SKS questions and possible answers

Thanks, I'll try that this weekend.

This maybe a dumb question, but would filing the feed lips in front help as well?

I bought a couple boxes of 125 grain soft points to see if it makes it easier to notice dents.
 
Thanks, I'll try that this weekend.

This maybe a dumb question, but would filing the feed lips in front help as well?

I bought a couple boxes of 125 grain soft points to see if it makes it easier to notice dents.

Filing will eliminate material that you can never get back. I have a small pair of vise grips which make the tweak go quite quickly.
 
It appears the issue is with the left side of the magazine. There is a copper rub mark on the left side below the chamber and the rounds on that side hit low. The right side feeds without issue.

I tried to open up the feed lips on the left hand side, but that didn't fix the issue .

Any more advice would be appreciated.

Thanks again.
 
From what I can tell the spring is riveted through the bottom of the magazine. I'm certain I'd destroy the magazine trying to remove it.

I'm guessing I'll try and find a surplus 10 round magazine and swap it in to see if that fixes it.
 
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from my Tula 53 re-arsenalled. The inner ring is black, and the inner barrel color is black. I assumed most mid-russians had chrome-lined barrels. Could the chromium have a stain on it, or is this black-metal something else? Could the barrel have black chromium plating, instead of silver/mirror chromium?
 
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from my Tula 53 re-arsenalled. The inner ring is black, and the inner barrel color is black. I assumed most mid-russians had chrome-lined barrels. Could the chromium have a stain on it, or is this black-metal something else? Could the barrel have black chromium plating, instead of silver/mirror chromium?

The chrome lining is VERY thin, and extends only to the initial inside bevel of the crown. It can't be seen well at the muzzle end. Shining a light into the muzzle end, and looking into the muzzle at the same time will not reveal the chrome well. It will look black. Now, place your bore light into the chamber end and look into the muzzle end, and you should go blind. Non-chromed bores were discontinued in very early 1952, and all refurbishment installed barrels were chrome lined.

Your crown has been run across the pavement, by the looks of the scratches. It should be evenly contoured, rounded and smooth - without scratches or gouges. A recrown at the gunsmith shouldn't cost a great deal, and might be a consideration for yours.

Here is a typical refurb crown. All surfaces show bluing at the muzzle end.

sksLetterHW_019.jpg
 
Looks like it's a yugo m59/66 with the nade launcher chopped off, trying to pass it as an M59 (yugo without grenade launcher or gas switch).
I believe the importer marked these as M59s, but their not really.

Right, but if you look at picture 11 you can see that it has a unique manufacture mark.
 
The West Coast rail has a nickname. It's called, "The Rail To Nowhere." To date, no commercial mount has ever been identified to fit the specific dovetail dimensions.
 
The rail gives them no added value over a shooter grade SKS. I would not consider them as collectible, as the original configuration is altered. Seacoast NH region values for a shooter should be around $300, plus or minus $25.
 
Question: Is there a good online MANUAL ? I've found about a dozen but they are so grainy they are of little help.

Question: Way behind the bolt, on the side of the shroud, is a little LEVER. What is its purpose ?

Question: Bought a Grade A SKS direct on C&R from Top Gun.

Theses are supposed to be original, NOT re-arsenaled.

The overall condition is excellent; the numbers on the metal match; BUT the numbers on the Stock do not match the metal.

I believe they should if it was not re-arsenaled.

Advice ?
 
Question: Way behind the bolt, on the side of the shroud, is a little LEVER. What is its purpose ?

It's the retaining pin for the receiver cover.

There is another lever near the rear sight block. That will release the gas tube and op-rod.

Forget the manual (I've never found a decent one or needed one). Go watch some youtube vids on disassembly before taking it apart.

Once you do it once or twice it's pretty easy.


What nationality is your SKS? Got any pics?
 
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Agreed that no manual is well done.

Just the most important part to remember: Flip the safety to the 'On' position before attempting to release the trigger group. Many safety springs get damaged if trying to remove with the safety 'Off'.
 
Agreed that no manual is well done.

Just the most important part to remember: Flip the safety to the 'On' position before attempting to release the trigger group. Many safety springs get damaged if trying to remove with the safety 'Off'.

Safety UP is OFF ?
 
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