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School me on Lever Actions (please?)

Waher said:
Use a Chapman head screwdriver and not a standard flathead.

Their non-tapered shape is better suited.
Slotted_Screwdriver_Diagram_2048x2048.jpg


chapmanmfg.com

Speciality Screwdriver Sets Made in the USA by Chapman Manufacturing

Chapman MFG - Made in the USA for over 80 years, Chapman provides a variety of screwdriver sets for industrial assembly, maintenance, home repairs, and more. From our famous mini ratchet to our Master set, you will surely find the right fit for your precision job!
chapmanmfg.com chapmanmfg.com
Click to expand...
I think that’s what I was using?
1FD28B8E-64BE-4897-87D3-6A4EF7826770.jpeg C0CDE2F2-D103-4A19-B9A7-A67FBFB13534.jpeg
 
 
The bit sets are a good place to start. I've filed a few down to fit my Smiths frames.
So it looks like that holds the receiver pieces together?

The good news is, you're not completely f**ked. You'll be ordering a replacement bolt though.
The soldering iron trick and penetrating oil will get it loose. Heat and repeat.
Worst case scenario- You'll end up drilling that out in increments starting with wire gauge and going up to bolt shank dia minus several thousandths to stay off the threads and relieve tension.
Not something I'd attempt with out a drill press.

1608988212127.png
 
Fritz the Cat said:
Those 5-in-1 screwdrivers are delightful for the housewife who occasionally tightens a cabinet door knob. It will not transfer the blow from a hammer down to the screw.
You want a dedicated screwdriver for each screw you may encounter.
Amazon product ASIN B00LFHIAAYView: https://www.amazon.com/Grace-USA-Screwdriver-Screwdrivers-Professional/dp/B00LFHIAAY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=screwdriver+set+made+in+usa&qid=1608981883&sprefix=Screwdriver+set&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNFNNWVBDU1BVS1FJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjAzNzAwMUtIRE9OVTkyUDZVQSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQ5MjAyMTlTNUhPUUdWOU4wWiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl#immersive-view_1608981946197
The Amazon link isn't showing the pic...
View attachment 427482
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Lmao. Looks like I need to order a set
 
TrashcanDan said:
The bit sets are a good place to start. I've filed a few down to fit my Smiths frames.
So it looks like that holds the receiver pieces together?

The good news is, you're not completely f**ked. You'll be ordering a replacement bolt though.
The soldering iron trick and penetrating oil will get it loose. Heat and repeat.
Worst case scenario- You'll end up drilling that out in increments starting with wire gauge and going up to bolt shank dia minus several thousandths to stay off the threads and relieve tension.
Not something I'd attempt with out a drill press.

View attachment 427498
Click to expand...
Ordered a new screw last night. Don’t have a soldering iron so I guess I’ll have to order one of those too.
I hope I’m not screwed. There’s not much material to engage with a screw driver since the head has been marred up and mashed. Ugh.
Will a Bic lighter work? 😂
 
Parker Duofold said:
That's a lot of metal to heat up with an 80 watt iron especially if the receiver is clamped in a bench vise. I have a big soldering iron you could borrow but I'm afraid I live too far away from you these days.
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You think it will take hours to heat up? I just ordered it so we'll see lol.
 
ReluctantDecoy said:
My Chiappa .22 lever has a twist off too. I just figured that was because it was .22 and the rounds wouldn't handle being pressed into a gate.
Click to expand...
A lot of .22, the bullets are falling out of the cases before even trying this.


TrashcanDan said:
Try to picture the old tube fed .22 bolt action guns and how those would load.
Click to expand...
I like the ones that loaded from the back of the buttstock, or even better, the angled hole on the side of the buttstock.


Hey, I know they specify "steel" Henrys. This is as opposed to the brass ones. Do they make alloy receivers? If not, why not?

My ideal is a .22 Mag, alloy receiver, fiber front, peep rear sights, drilled for scopes, lightweight round barrel, curved stock. The only thing up from that for me would be a magazine fed 17WSM or 17 Hornet.
 
jpm said:
Use a MAPP torch, it will heat up faster. Amazon.com : Mapp Gas Torch
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Ugh I dunno. I feel like I need to bring this to a smith who can drill this out or use some other mechanical means to get it out. I really doubt those gunsmithing screw drivers I bought are really going to make a difference. That screw head is mangled to shit 😂
I feel like I’m going to spend all this money and still get no where lol. We’ll see.
 
andrew1220 said:
Ugh I dunno. I feel like I need to bring this to a smith who can drill this out or use some other mechanical means to get it out. I really doubt those gunsmithing screw drivers I bought are really going to make a difference. That screw head is mangled to shit 😂
I feel like I’m going to spend all this money and still get no where lol. We’ll see.
Click to expand...

Yeah don't use a torch, I was just yanking your chain!
 
Parker Duofold said:
That's a lot of metal to heat up with an 80 watt iron especially if the receiver is clamped in a bench vise. I have a big soldering iron you could borrow but I'm afraid I live too far away from you these days.
Click to expand...

andrew1220 said:
You think it will take hours to heat up? I just ordered it so we'll see lol.
Click to expand...

You aren't trying to heat up the receiver, only the bolt.
The bolt expands and crushes the debris/corrosion/thread-locker that's in the threads.

Let the iron get real hot then apply to the screwhead for about 30 seconds.
Apply penetrating oil and let cool to room temp.
Wipe off excess oil and repeat several times before attempting to remove the screw
 
pastera said:
You aren't trying to heat up the receiver, only the bolt.
The bolt expands and crushes the debris/corrosion/thread-locker that's in the threads.

Let the iron get real hot then apply to the screwhead for about 30 seconds.
Apply penetrating oil and let cool to room temp.
Wipe off excess oil and repeat several times before attempting to remove the screw
Click to expand...
I’m going to try this first. But I spoke to Harry at Noah’s Motors in Saugus who suggested I do the same and if it still won’t budge, then bring it to his shop and he’s got all kinds of tools and machines to get it out.

He said if he can’t get it out the last resort is EDM and essentially melting/burning the screw off😮

I’m going to keep applying kroil in the mean time.
 
andrew1220 said:
I’m going to try this first. But I spoke to Harry at Noah’s Motors in Saugus who suggested I do the same and if it still won’t budge, then bring it to his shop and he’s got all kinds of tools and machines to get it out.

He said if he can’t get it out the last resort is EDM and essentially melting/burning the screw off😮

I’m going to keep applying kroil in the mean time.
Click to expand...
EMD isn't as scary as it sounds - no cutting force to drive the bit off center so little chance of receiver damage.
 
Now that I think of it, somewhere in one of those Kuhnhausen manuals I have-

So you get a bit and chuck it in a drill press.
Pad out the plate so the receiver is level and square to the bit.
Pull on the arbor to get some downforce to keep from camming out, and rotate the chuck by hand to crack it loose.
Its worked for me before on the S&W sideplate screws
 
TrashcanDan said:
Now that I think of it, somewhere in one of those Kuhnhausen manuals I have-

So you get a bit and chuck it in a drill press.
Pad out the plate so the receiver is level and square to the bit.
Pull on the arbor to get some downforce to keep from camming out, and rotate the chuck by hand to crack it loose.
Its worked for me before on the S&W sideplate screws
Click to expand...
Yeah that would probably work well for this. Harry at Noah’s Motors has all that equipment I believe. He gets $50 per hour for labor and $50 per hour for machine time. I told him I don’t care as long as he can get it out.
 
Loved the skinner peep with fiber optic front so much on the 45-70, that I had to do the same for my Henry 357. This little golden lady is going coyote hunting with me in January. I'm good with her out to about a 100 yards. Did my own "smithing" on the front sight. Picked up a brass punch and small triangular file. Took a bit, but I got it in there.

skinner.jpg

sight.jpg
 
SUCCESS!! Kroil to the rescue! Had both ends soaking since this morning.
Put all my weight onto the screwdriver and it turned! And holy shit is it rusted in there! No wonder it wouldn’t budge.
5C46F76D-2B0F-4984-895B-6D1E73BC5FB0.jpeg 3FB6715B-F7DC-4E81-BA78-17CC97B23202.jpeg

Now to see if I can cancel my soldering iron and gunsmithing screw driver kit...maybe I’ll just keep them in case I need it in the future.
 
jpm said:
Yeah don't use a torch, I was just yanking your chain!
Click to expand...
That ain't yanking his chain; watch this...

andrew1220 said:
Every other screw came out with no effort. Put all my body weight into pressing down while turning it.
Click to expand...
Wait, isn't that the one screw in the receiver that's left-handed?

andrew1220 said:
SUCCESS!! Kroil to the rescue! Had both ends soaking since this morning.
Click to expand...
Oops, started posting too late in the day to catch you. [rofl]
 
Last edited:
peterk123 said:
Loved the skinner peep with fiber optic front so much on the 45-70, that I had to do the same for my Henry 357. This little golden lady is going coyote hunting with me in January. I'm good with her out to about a 100 yards. Did my own "smithing" on the front sight. Picked up a brass punch and small triangular file. Took a bit, but I got it in there.

View attachment 427667

View attachment 427668
Click to expand...
I’m thinking of buying a skinner peep sight to replace the factory rear sight on the old 336. I don’t know if I can bring myself to install a fiber optic on that old gun lol.
 

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