Function over form. Function over form.
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Review of my new M&P vs Glock 34
- Thread starter Underwhere
- Start date
Function over form. Function over form.
J
Jose
It IS possible that the wrong recoil spring got used to build your M&P.
Mistakes like that happen to all manufacturers, even Honda. Ask me how I know.....
Send it back. S&W will make it right, guaranteed.
Mistakes like that happen to all manufacturers, even Honda. Ask me how I know.....
Send it back. S&W will make it right, guaranteed.
1.check the chamber for burrs. 2. look to see that you did not round the front locking block on the barrel and now have a gun that unlocks to early ( if the pressure is still to high, the cases won't eject) 3. look at the brass, is it fully resized? 4. Bump up your loads, see if that makes a difference 5. try a 13lbs recoil spring 6. Help JAR with his flinch
Mostly the fault of borrowed hearing protection on an indoor range. If you pay close attention, you can see another click and the very end of the video. Still moves a tiny bit, but not the obvious flinchorama of the first failure.
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1. Chamber is good. Considering polishing it as recommended on th mp forums.
2. Locking block was not modified. Looks fine.
3. Brass is good. Same as all my other loads. Actually sized twice during loading.
4. Good suggestion. I may try that.
5. My thoughts as well
6. Yes.
Break in?
Jeez on a 1911 yea but this gun should perform better than 50% of the time out of the box.
I think it MAY have something to do with the fact that you took the whole thing apart and messed around with it before you ever fired a single shot. If you were having issues with it out of the box then people (and S&W) would probably be a lot more sympathetic.
![[wink]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/002.gif "Wink [wink]")
The only common issues I've heard of with the M&P is ejecting/extracting/cycling on the compacts due to limp wristing. When my wife started shooting she'd limp wrist it and it would stovepipe or fail to extract the round.
Maybe it's me but I probably would have fired a couple of boxes through it
before doing all those mods.... Otherwise, you have no way of knowing
whether or not anything you did has anything to do with the problem or not.
I realize the odds of anything you did influencing it's behavior negatively are
slim to none... but it would still bug the crap out of me.![[laugh]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/012.gif "Laugh [laugh]")
That whole "slide not going into battery during manual cycling" thing would also
bother me. Something ain't right there.
-Mike
before doing all those mods.... Otherwise, you have no way of knowing
whether or not anything you did has anything to do with the problem or not.
I realize the odds of anything you did influencing it's behavior negatively are
slim to none... but it would still bug the crap out of me.
That whole "slide not going into battery during manual cycling" thing would also
bother me. Something ain't right there.
-Mike
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I think it MAY have something to do with the fact that you took the whole thing apart and messed around with it before you ever fired a single shot. If you were having issues with it out of the box then people (and S&W) would probably be a lot more sympathetic.
The only common issues I've heard of with the M&P is ejecting/extracting/cycling on the compacts due to limp wristing. When my wife started shooting she'd limp wrist it and it would stovepipe or fail to extract the round.
Yes both of are right. It would have been better to go that route but after receiving the gun I got the flu for a week and being bored out of my mind I had to do something with it. I actually didn't and still don't have any mags for the thing so that makes it alittle harder to shoot.Maybe it's me but I probably would have fired a couple of boxes through it
before doing all those mods.... Otherwise, you have no way of knowing
whether or not anything you did has anything to do with the problem or not.
I realize the odds of anything you did influencing it's behavior negatively are
slim to none... but it would still bug the crap out of me.
That whole "slide not going into battery during manual cycling" thing would also
bother me. Something ain't right there.
-Mike
I made these modifications with the idea in mind that I did not want to affect the function of the gun and still believe they don't play a role...but there is always a chance.
I called sw between meetings and they confirmed that the gun should pretty much anything
He also hypothesized that I was sent maybe an mp45 recoil assembly
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When you put the three hotter factory rounds through it and it ran, was that with the stock recoil assembly or the glock one?
Speed Shooter Specialties sells non-captured guide rods and a variety of recoil spring weights. Let me know if you're going to place an order.
Speed Shooter Specialties sells non-captured guide rods and a variety of recoil spring weights. Let me know if you're going to place an order.
![[grin]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/041.gif "Grin [grin]")
No, no WWB was shot. De's reloads that we were shooting are a little slower than WWB, but not much.
J
Jose
Is there ANY reason you will not send this gun back to get fixed under warranty and insist on dicking with it?
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I actually put a few of WWB through it. My brother had a box.
However this was with the Glock recoil spring in it.
It could be the reloads but I doubt it. The work in everything else. I thought this gun was supposed to like everything?
They reloads are 115gr plated with a velocity of ~1150 fps and an OAL of 1.130
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I have to look for IDPA regulations. I think aftermarket guide rods are not acceptable?
Yes. I am a masochist and half-enjoy dicking with this stuff as it's not my primary gun. I get a strange satisfaction out of making something work that doesn't.
I'm pretty confident they will. I didn't change anything to affect the function of the gun.
I called and they said they would send out a new recoil assembly and if that doesn't work then I can contact them to send the slide in for a new extractor.
The only thing that's not allowed is "Guide rods made of a material different from the factory part it replaces." Since the M&P guide rod is already steel, you're good to go.
![[rofl]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/013.gif "ROFL [rofl]")
![[smile]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/001.gif "Smile [smile]")
I think it's funny that you have to put so much work into a gun to make it work as well as a Glock..
He put all that "work" into it to look cool: All show and no go.
That's my biggest problem without a doubt, and its unique to pistols only apparently. I've been working on it a lot though this past year, but man do i still have light years till being flinchless... Jar's first flinch there looks a lot like mine sometimes.
There was a good interview with Matt Burkett and Brian Enos about this. Honestly without seeing where Jar's holes were- it may or may not be a flinch. A flinch is when your muscles/hands/arms, whatever- yank/push the gun downward BEFORE the bullet leaves the barrel. However sometimes it is your natural muscle memory when dealing with recoil and when that reaction occurs AFTER the bullet leaves the barrel it's not a flinch. So when a dud or a misfire doesn't go off and your guns dips down it's not always a flinch. What's more important is where the bullets go and what your groups look like.
Lugnut, link to interview?
It was definitely a flinch in this case. I'm definitely not timing a new to me gun on the second round. I normally double plug even outside and I was only using muffs indoors.
Dench, ball and dummy helps, as does dry fire. The most important thing is learning to call your shots. Something that has helped me immensely lately is shooting bullseye. During the slow fire stage, I look in my spotting scope after each shot to confirm my shot call. This quick feedback has helped improve my shot calling quite a bit.
It was definitely a flinch in this case. I'm definitely not timing a new to me gun on the second round.
I normally double plug even outside and I was only using muffs indoors. Dench, ball and dummy helps, as does dry fire. The most important thing is learning to call your shots. Something that has helped me immensely lately is shooting bullseye. During the slow fire stage, I look in my spotting scope after each shot to confirm my shot call. This quick feedback has helped improve my shot calling quite a bit.
Lugnut, link to interview?
It was definitely a flinch in this case. I'm definitely not timing a new to me gun on the second round.
Dench, ball and dummy helps, as does dry fire. The most important thing is learning to call your shots. Something that has helped me immensely lately is shooting bullseye. During the slow fire stage, I look in my spotting scope after each shot to confirm my shot call. This quick feedback has helped improve my shot calling quite a bit.
Jar- no linky- it's on his DVD.
Calling your shots. Yeah it's important.. but it won't help you fix a flinch.. it will just let you know you flinched before you look for the hole!
I think it's funny that you have to put so much work into a gun to make it work as well as a Glock..
Somehow I knew you'd find this thread...
I dunno, somehow, for me anyway, it's all related. For me, knowing you flinched is what keeps you from doing it next time. Calling a bad flinched shot is the same as seeing the flinch when doing ball and dummy.
Are Matt's DVDs worth picking up? I've been listening to his podcasts,and I've found some of them helpful. Saul Kirsch's book really laid out all the mental stuff well. (Thanks for the recommendation). I'm looking for something as a reference on the actual physical techniques of shooting, and this seems like a perfect niche for video.
Wow, we've really drifted this thread, huh?
