I have a 1998 Jeep Wrangler that I picked up a few years ago that I've been in the process of fixing up, doing almost all the work myself. Not too long ago, I had a brake line blow on me, and while I'd love to change them out myself, between everything going on, I just don't have the time. Wondering if anyone has a good shop, preferably not too far from Boston (for logistical reasons) that either has some experience specifically with Jeeps (aka rust buckets), or is just a solid all around mechanic? The only shop I know of is down in Warwick, RI, and is currently booking 1 month out for new work.
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Recommendations for a good car mechanic?
- Thread starter Camhabib
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one-eyed Jack
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If not too far from you, Sullivan Tire in Westford. I say that because for many years I would go there when it was Wayside Auto, owned by "Fuzzy" who stayed on to manage the repair dep't. Jack.
The pre bent kits make it easy,
How are your bleeder screws
1998 usually well rotted
Amazon product ASIN B003E7LJNIView: https://www.amazon.com/Omix-ADA-16737-51-Brake-1997-2006-Wrangler/dp/B003E7LJNI
How are your bleeder screws
1998 usually well rotted
Amazon product ASIN B003E7LJNIView: https://www.amazon.com/Omix-ADA-16737-51-Brake-1997-2006-Wrangler/dp/B003E7LJNI
I actually have the lines already, picked up a pre-bent stainless line kit. The big issue is my particular TJ has ABS, which makes bleeding it a bit more complicated. I know it isn't a difficult job, but everything is rusted to hell, and I think I rather just pay someone to get it done than try to mess about with it myself and find out the hard way I botched something up.
greencobra
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jeezus bro, any corner gas station should be able to do brake lines on a junk jeep, no?
greencobra
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i guess. but taking it to a boutique garage....hey, it's not my vehicle and money.
The issue as I understand it is that having ABS on a TJ isn't common, and takes some work to actually bleed. Also nothing comes out easy on it, and it's probably the only system on the car that actually matters.
It's not a big deal. Make sure the brake reservoir stays full. Run the lines. Connect to the ABS pump last to minimize the amount of fluid that comes out of the pump while you're working. Then bleed as normal. Paying close attention to the fluid level in the reservoir. As long as you don't let it run dry you shouldn't get any air in the pump or drain the accumulators.
Typically any decent scan tool can get to the menu to trigger the ABS bleed cycle. Even if you can't trigger the bleed cycle, all you have to do is go out for a drive and trigger the system by stomping on the brakes. Do it 2-3 times and any air in the pump will now be in the lines and can be bled out the usual way.
If you want to be fancy you can just use a vacuum pump, hand or electric, connected to the bleeder screws to draw fluid all the way through the system. You just have to have someone hold the pedal to the floor or wedge it there with a prybar, board etc... This will keep the master cyl's piston in the correct position for fluid to be pulled from the reservoir to the calipers. Just draw fluid until you see new clean fluid coming out of the pump then seal the bleeder screw. Rinse and repeat for each wheel. RR, LR, RF, LF. Just make sure there is always fluid in the reservoir. I can't stress that enough.
Pro tip: Any bolt with the correct diameter and thread pitch can be used to plug the outputs from the ABS pump while you work. Also Pre-bent lines can be a PITA to install with the body, driveline and crossmembers in place. It's usually easier to feed in line from a spool and bend as you go/need. Then just cut and flare the ends.
FWIW, If I still lived there I probably would have done the job for $200.
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Some lines do such but the pre bent kits have been a great thing. Especially on the chevy trucks , the only line on the jeep prebent thats a bit of a pain is the right front .
Bleeding is not to bad on the older jeeps.
Some can be a pita and takes a good amount of fluid and time.
As you mentioned dont let the system run “dry” if you can help it.
all the rust and rot , cracked hoses , stripped brake line flare nuts, come across cross threaded flare nuts often .
Rusted and broken bleeders. All fun.
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Oh, good point. I don't think I've ever tried on a stainless line. I've certainly done it to OE prebent lines.
Endangered
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Don't worry too much about the ABS bleed on that jeep. We do them all the time and don't need the scan tool to bleed them. Like Mac1911 mentioned, try to plug the ABS block so you don't loose the fluid out of it. You can also use vacuum caps to plug the holes if you don't have the correct thread bolts/plugs. I would offer our services ( I own Endangered Species 4wd in Holyoke, MA), but I am about 2 hrs away. Rust repair on TJs is very large part of our business, Lol. FWIW Replacing the brake lines on any chevy or ford of the same year will run into more issues/take longer than your jeep so any shop that can do those, can do this.
This all day long. The wife and I took our cars there for years. We only lived two blocks away, so it was super convenient. They're good, they're fair, and they're great folks. Greg, his front office guy is great too. One of the very few things I miss about living there.
I installed steel racing brake lines on my 911 and was flushing system once a season and bleeding before every event. All is extremely trivial to do. If you got air in abs it is a bit of pita but not difficult to fix. Nothing will crap out.
Motive Products Brake Bleeder, Power Bleeder, Catch Can/Fittings/Hoses/Pump, European Style, Kit (100) Amazon product ASIN B00CJ5DV2IView: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ5DV2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7KECF3XMJZHCGWBJ9MQG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
When your dealing with 10+ year old shit that has not seen a Brake Fluid Flush until a line blows and the pedal goes to the floor....master cylinders are loaded with sludge and often once you travel out side that are of travel the seals get FUBAR running over that sludge
Think 357 revolver shooting 38spl for years then try to cram a 357 in the cylinder.
For those who want to bend and flare their own these kits are out there for alot of cars/trucks and they come with the needed flare nuts... usually they have all the ones you need.
30 years into this business still have not found a dependable source of correct flare nuts for cars /trucks
30 years into this business still have not found a dependable source of correct flare nuts for cars /trucks
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
shop.advanceautoparts.com
So the line that blew was the one going from the master to the ABS module. There's almost certainly air in the ABS system now, and the reservoir has a good amount of gunk in it. I'm debating just replacing the master as well.
The gunk you see, disasemble you master and tell me what you find.
There inexpensive enough.
The ABS pumps are pretty well built on those its often the pump motor that craps out if corrosion gets in there.
Even still I think IF you where to have any ABS unit problems I dont think they are all that much money
well, when i swapped master cylinders - a proper way is to use software to tell ECU to activate ABS and while it is clicking - it is impossible not to notice - you do pump the brake pedal with motive bleeder under pressure to force enough fluid through the abs and master and out of calipers until no bubbles are visible.
as to replace the master itself - i really do not think it is needed, but, if you are in there already and do not mind - it never hurts to refresh that part. it is just a bit of a pita to undo all the links and the whole assembly.
you forget the vacuum booster. it may (or may not) be tricky to remove that whole assembly out in order for a replacement, depends upon a car of what else you need to take apart around it.
so i would not touch master cylinder unless it is really necessary and do only lines - that is simple. it would worth to pump it when lines are removed to clean it up, of course.
Some boosters suck thats for sure, boosters do fail but honeslty masters failing vs boosters failings in 30+ years masters are at about 20-1
I know some replacements come as a complete assembly, dealers will usually want to do both.
for a 20+ year old jeep I would leave it on the customer to decide to replace the booster or not.
I f'd up a MC years ago trying to push out the piston from a caliper
I had to run new rear hardlines on my 87 535is a year or two ago, went with copper/nickle lines vs steel or buying an OEM prebent part from BMW $$$. I could bend / route them by hand and they flared without issue.
xero2099
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CLM Auto on the cambridge/somerville line
