cmacclel
NES Member
Accurate is right! I'm not the best shot.......here's 7 rounds from the PM9 at 50 feet. I've only shot maybe 25 rounds with the pistol at this point.
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J-Frame or Kahr PM9 ????
- Thread starter JohnnyC
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Accurate is right! I'm not the best shot.......here's 7 rounds from the PM9 at 50 feet. I've only shot maybe 25 rounds with the pistol at this point.
cmacclel
NES Member
This really does bother me, mine will not chamber a hollow point by racking the slide, even from slide lock it must be done by releasing the slide stop. For a $700 fighting gun, this is inexcusable. I understand the issue is with the magazines so hopefully they will rectify this beyond giving special charging instructions.
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Mine works fine with Speer Gold Dots. I did notice that Hydroshocks (Hydrashocks? The ones from Federal) would misfeed the first round occasionally. Usually if I was being a bit wimpy with the slide.
"And he said upon them: Rack the slide with gusto my son!"
From slide lock there's not much gusto left to put in. That's where it could become an issue, if upon inserting a new mag, if you grabbed the slide to release the stop (like you can, some say should) on all similar type guns or for whatever reason it comes out of slide lock you could run into a jam. Perhaps the gold dots overcome this flaw or you have a better pistol than me but, to me if a cartridge chambers by releasing the slide stop with your thumb, it should also chamber by pulling the slide back to release the stop. I'm using Federal HST's, I have some gold dots also, I'll try them, Thanks
stoneypete
NES Member
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Any one shooting the 147 grain Rangers out of their Kahrs?
This post is almost all wrong about the PM9.
I had my gun before it was built Mass approved. I searched it out because it suited my needs. Once you load you PM9 to carry, you are set to go. When you hit slide lock or do a tactical mag change, thre is no problem with a quick reload, and the manual of arms is nothing new to anyone who has fired a semi auto pistol.
With a round in the chamber, you can dump a empty or almost empty mag and insert a fresh 8 rounds with no trouble. If you have to re-charge the gun, it's not as bad as it sounds. The gun is small and you have to handle it so the slide doesn't get hung up on a reload, but if you keep your fingers and palms away from the slide and rails, the gun will cycle fine using a "Practiced slingshot" load. Especially after hundreds of rounds of break in, which were just fun to shoot.
Not Rangers but I have shot 147gr Hydrashocks with no problems.
Also, +1 to Depicts. I searched mine out before they because Martha Jokely approved because it seemed like the best option (for me). There are a number of others on here who've had them for awhile and like them regardless of their latest status.
I also agree with Depicts of slingshotting it after break in. It works fine on mine and I purposefully do that while practicing to make sure it works.
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RichM
Retired Army Veteran
I've used the Speer Gold Dot and the Remington HPs in mine without issue. As long as the first round is nose-up, it feeds fine. I use the slide release to load the chamber (and it closes with authority).
cmacclel
NES Member
J
Jose
I'll stick with my de-locked 637.
Peter, my gun came with 250 rounds of 147 +P+ ranger ammo. I shot it all and it worked just fine. Might be a bit more than I need though.
stoneypete
NES Member
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Thanks Bill. I have had 150 115 grain ball perform flawlessly through mine and I am starting to look for carry rounds.
Does he have rust issues with other metals as well? I've never owned a scandium gun, so I have no idea what I might do to it.
No amount of oil helps me with my rust issues. For the short period that I carried a Sig, I'd put fresh rust on it every 8-10 hours, despite cleaning and oiling it 1-2 times every single day, and barely coming in contact with the metal. After a few hours there would be rusty fingerprints from all the points that I'd contacted on the gun. Similar issues with other guns and knives.
In general I don't like heavier rounds out of short barrels, but I'll carry anything that feeds reliably.
Goodness. Not this old chestnut again.
dcmdon
NES Member
I have an aluminum/scandium/titanium 340 PD.
Its lighter and easier to carry than a PM9.
But most people shoot shoot the PM9 MUCH better. Its amazing how it swallows up the recoil.
You said price was not an object. Then you should be comparing the airlite J frames to the PM9.
Try them both out. if you think you will carry a PM9, then get that.
As far as the PM9 vs a steel J frame in .38, there's not comparison.
The PM9 is lighter, easier to shoot, carries more ammo, and fires a more powerful cartridge.
Here's a size comparison of my LCP, PM9, and 340 PD:
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Its lighter and easier to carry than a PM9.
But most people shoot shoot the PM9 MUCH better. Its amazing how it swallows up the recoil.
You said price was not an object. Then you should be comparing the airlite J frames to the PM9.
Try them both out. if you think you will carry a PM9, then get that.
As far as the PM9 vs a steel J frame in .38, there's not comparison.
The PM9 is lighter, easier to shoot, carries more ammo, and fires a more powerful cartridge.
Here's a size comparison of my LCP, PM9, and 340 PD:
There is no such thing. (at least not in the winchester LE product lineup) Are you talking about the Ranger 127 gr +P+? (RA9TA). That's an excellent carry load, but I don't think I would subject something like a PM9 to it.
-Mike
dcmdon
NES Member
Like I said above, I own both guns.
Its very easy to reversably remove the lock. It takes about 15 minutes and requires a screwdriver and a twist tie. Very simple.
I've not experienced any problems with my stainless steel Kahr rusting. The "rusting problem" sounds like little substantiated Internet folklore.
Don
Its very easy to reversably remove the lock. It takes about 15 minutes and requires a screwdriver and a twist tie. Very simple.
I've not experienced any problems with my stainless steel Kahr rusting. The "rusting problem" sounds like little substantiated Internet folklore.
Don
You've never met GSG.
![[laugh]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/012.gif "Laugh [laugh]")
It's not BS, either. I've talked to a knife vendor who has a customer who can make stuff rust, too. I want to say there's also at least one other person on NES, whose username escapes me at the moment, that makes most guns rust just by touching them. There's no getting around the fact that there are different tiers to corrosion resistance WRT handguns. IMHO Glock and HK are at the top of this pyramid, and most other vendors are way lower on it. It's not a problem most people have to deal with, but people should be aware of the "finish capabilities" of their handgun. -Mike
You've never met GSG.
-Mike
Yeah, as I've mentioned elsewhere, stainless will rust but it takes a lot more to make it happen and it happens much more slowly. That said, someone mentioned previously in this thread of getting a scandium (aluminum) j-frame to corrode and I assume those are anodized. If those are anodized and the gun has been treated well, it won't corrode.
Also, I'm a little dubious of people making coated stainless rust (like the black slides on some Kahrs, S&W M&Ps, SIGs, etc) since that's like a belt and suspenders.
An S&W 340 should be the ultimate in corrosion resistance. Titanium doesn't corrode and the anodized aluminum frame shouldn't either unless damaged.
dcmdon
NES Member
The M&P slides are stainless with melonite. It shouldn't get any better than that. in case you didn't know, Tenifer is glock's name for a melonite process. It is not merely a coating, but actually a surface treatment of the metal. I don't know what Kahr and Sig use on their dark colored slides.
Don
Don
Kahr currently states:
They used to advertise it as DLC (same as IonBond) which is a vapor deposition coating using tungsten, I believe. They describe it the same way now so it seems they have a different vendor and can't use the "DLC" name.
I believe SIG's Nitron is some form of this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Titanium_coating
J
Jose
Melonite/Tenifer is not a coating. It is a case hardening process that leaves the surface of stainless steel black and extremely resistant to corrosion in addition to elevating hardness to seriously high leves (mid 60s Rockwell C scale) for the depth of the case.
dcmdon
NES Member
Yep, great stuff. About the only down side is that in the process of treating the metal you need to elevate it to about 1100 F . (or thereabouts). So the treatment needs to be engineered into the whole process of creating the part. i.e. its hot enough to anneal or embrittle the object if its not treated properly on cool down.
I've got a Glock 34 with thousands of presentations from a Kydex holster. A lot of the black is gone, but its never shown any corrosion, even on the places that appear to be unprotected metal.
I've got a Glock 34 with thousands of presentations from a Kydex holster. A lot of the black is gone, but its never shown any corrosion, even on the places that appear to be unprotected metal.
