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I HATE CASE TRIMMING!!

2.0456" to 2.0526" is SAAMI spec. If you're going to use that ammo in any random .30-06 chamber that's the number you're looking for.

On the other hand if you're going to keep shooting the same brass out of the same rifle you can bump the shoulders back a few thou.


The measurements you posted seem really short to me but you may happen to have a gun that has a short chamber. Stranger things have happened. (Or like Jim said maybe your gauge isn't quite perfect. I've found them to be pretty close but maybe I've been lucky.)

Oh okay. Well this will be just for my Garand as I don't see myself owning another rifle in 30-06 anytime soon.

Yeah it does seem short. The throat reading from CMP was +1, not sure if that means it has a short chamber. It's certainly possible that it's the gauge being off. I was squeezing the caliper fairly snug onto the cases when taking a measurement - mainly to ensure it was square/flat on the blade. But even then it's very easy to get varying results with that tool I think.
 
Oh okay. Well this will be just for my Garand as I don't see myself owning another rifle in 30-06 anytime soon.

Yeah it does seem short. The throat reading from CMP was +1, not sure if that means it has a short chamber. It's certainly possible that it's the gauge being off. I was squeezing the caliper fairly snug onto the cases when taking a measurement - mainly to ensure it was square/flat on the blade. But even then it's very easy to get varying results with that tool I think.

Yeah, it's not the perfect tool by any means.
 
Oh okay. Well this will be just for my Garand as I don't see myself owning another rifle in 30-06 anytime soon.

Yeah it does seem short. The throat reading from CMP was +1, not sure if that means it has a short chamber. It's certainly possible that it's the gauge being off. I was squeezing the caliper fairly snug onto the cases when taking a measurement - mainly to ensure it was square/flat on the blade. But even then it's very easy to get varying results with that tool I think.

Throat of +1 is a good indication the barrel is in very good condition although does not really indicate headspace. The chamber can be cut to the most super tight tolerance but a old worn bolt would affect headspace. We have no idea what parts are from where on a cmp M1. Bolts can be like new to worn along with receiver lug area.

If your fired brass is only measuring .001" more than unfired either your measurements are off or your chamber is nice and snug and a good match to your current brass. M1 are not known to have "tight" chambers.

I will take some HXP measurements later and see how much they vary.
 
Andrew for what it's worth.
I use the rcbs precision mic. Case gauge.
I did the finish ream on my M1 build and used the foster go gauge so I use the foster gauge to
"Calibrate" my rcbs mic..
The go gauge measure -.002 past 0 on the rcbs gauge.
I measured 20 random HXP with dates 68,71,77,79 none where more than .002 +/- from 0 on the mic and more than half where -.002 so pretty spot on.
Now I checked fired cases same random brass. I,have been using all season 68,71,77,79 same load etc., all measured .001-.003 (this tells me my chamber is a little larger than the gauge and the brass doesn't spring back 100%....now I grabbed a,hand full of sized brass. They all came in at .-003-004"
With the Mic.
So my die is,set up to push the brass back .003-.005" 0n average.
On my most worn out M1. Which almost closes on the no go it's more like +.014 over unfired dimensions...I have a lee die set up to push the brass I load for my other garands to mic out to zero on the gauge. It might be excessive working of the brass but I use brass that has been shot many times and tend not to worry about recovery. I been shooting HXP vs reloading for plinking more though.
I have 2 cans left of loose HXP and once that's gone I will reload more or even start shooting cast.

Now stop thinking so much.
If you have the hornady comparator take a unfired PPU or HXP. Place it in the gauge and zero it out. Now put a fired case in the gauge measure it....back of your die .
Readjust your die until brass comes out -.005" from the fired dimension you should be fine. Or if it makes you feel good resize until it is back to zero.
I use the rcbs case tool part that hits the shoulder to get readings from other cals like 8mm and 303.
It's a bit crude but works good enough to get a idea of whats going on with the sizing die.

Hope that helps.... I use the Wilson gauge for 223....
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RuJYpm-qplQ

I hope this helps and gets you on track. As for trimming. Set the tool up to trim to "trim to" or minimum case OAL and trim away.

As you can see I have also bought several items to do the jobs.
My lee trimmer I found to suck...it doesn't cut! Plus my arthritic hands don't like it. The zip trim was a POS. I use rcbs trimmer and when I know I will trim more than a few hundred cases I use the cordless drill attachment.... my shooting has come to a stand still and don't see it picking up anytime soon. Before long I will be to old to waste time reloading and just shoot!
I have the Lyman case prep center, it works well but if I did not get it on the introductory deal when it came out for 79$ I wouldn't buy it now.
 
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I sharpie the bottom and give a side stripe on my reloads as well. Especially when working up OCW loads.
Sharpies. Just a quick swipe over the headstamp.
I'll have to give that a try, thanks. I've used blue dykem to mark the headstamp of my pistol reloads and it works awesome, but doesn't help to identify batches like using multiple colors would.
 
Example of how I do ladder/OCW loads

image.jpg

The pen notes in black are the bullseye position I was shooting at and any notes as I was shooting about called fliers.

The 4320 load is there because it's a known very accurate load from the gun I was using that shoots better than I can.

Corresponding target:
image.jpg

I try to shoot a known good load and some "general factory ammo" each time I do a load work up. It helps me be sure of my results by knowing how well I was shooting that day and how it may be effecting my results.
 
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I'll have to give that a try, thanks. I've used blue dykem to mark the headstamp of my pistol reloads and it works awesome, but doesn't help to identify batches like using multiple colors would.

When I started reloading for my AR's, I used Dykem also, probably paid about the same for it as you do... It was pointed out to me that Dykem doesn't do your bolt face any favors and closely looking at my bolt I couldn't disagree. Sharpies do not cost that much and it doesn't seem to imbed like the Dykem does ,something abrasive it in.
 
Just used the Little Crow for the first time on a couple batches of .223. Super easy and mostly +-1, worst case -2. I recommend.

+1 for the Wilson case guage to check sizing.
 
Well I finally tested the tri way trimmer for 30-06. I'm somewhat disappointed. I'm trimming once fired HXP (various year headstamps) and new factory once fired PPU cases.

The trimmer works perfectly with the PPU cases but I have to make major adjustments in order to trim the HXP brass. But I understand the brass is going to vary in dimensions/thickness etc when dealing with 40+ year old greek HXP brass which is probably the reason for the trimmer needing adjustment.

I'm also using a lee sizing die. I sized cases using generous amounts of one shot lube as well as RCBS case lube to see if it's me sizing/lubing incorrectly. But the fact that the PPU cases are pretty much exact from case to case, I don't think its a sizing/lubing issue?

Anyone using the tri way for HXP or other mixed headstamp brass and running into problems?

I suppose I could sort my brass and get all the PPU cases trimmed then make adjustments when I move on to the HXP brass.

UPDATE!

I ended up buying a Lee classic cast single stage press and finally mounted it earlier this week after needing to cut out a notch in my reloading bench for the press ram. But it's solidly mounted now.

I didn't have any clean once fired HXP 30-06 cases aside from a few pieces I had in my scrap brass pile. The 3 pieces of brass had some corrosion that made me uncomfortable loading so I didn't hesitate to toss them out - but fine for testing. Anyway, I got those lubed up nicely and screwed in the Lee sizing die an additional 1/3 turn after touching the shell holder.

Also had to adjust the tri way trimmer since it was last used with cases that were improperly sized. I eyeballed it by inserting a case and seeing how close the cutting blade was to the casemouth.

The 3 cases I had were 1963, 1967, and 1977 headstamps. The results using the headspace comparator tool and measuring the COL:
1963 ~2.037" trimmed to 2.475"
1967 ~2.037" trimmed to 2.475"
1977 ~2.038" trimmed to 2.476"

I realize it's only 3 cases and I need to try more before I say it's a complete success, but there was 0 consistency before using the single stage press. So I'm hoping it's good to go.

Also it appears I'm setting the shoulder back enough based on my previous findings of unfired and fired cases:
Okay so I took some measurements last night. I made sure to spin/rotate the cases in the comparator tool to ensure that they were even/flat on the caliper blades etc.

The 10 1978 HXP unfired rounds averaged 2.041"

Then I measured 10 unfired PPU rounds which averaged 2.040"

Then 10 fired 1978 cases averaged 2.042"

So I want to bump the shoulder back to 0.003"-0.006"?? That would mean for the HXP cases, they need to be bumped to 2.039"-2.036"?
Does that sound right for 30-06? I measured a few of the cases I already sized and trimmed and they seemed to range from 2.039-2.042"
 
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Congratulations.

I love my Lee classic cast turret. And I'm a true blue dillon guy.

Just don't try to prime on the Lee. Its a F$%king disaster.

I really wish Lee would come up with something better. Charge me $20 more but allow me to prime on the press.

Don
 
I use a Lee 4 hole Turret to load my .223 still. It's about 400rds an hour with prepped brass. I still hand prime. I have the priming setup for the turret, but it just doesn't run smoothly.

I really want to get a Dillon 650 for .223, but hard to justify when I already keep up with what I shoot.
 
Congratulations.

I love my Lee classic cast turret. And I'm a true blue dillon guy.

Just don't try to prime on the Lee. Its a F$%king disaster.

I really wish Lee would come up with something better. Charge me $20 more but allow me to prime on the press.

Don

Thanks lol. Yeah I haven't even tried to prime on the Lee as it looks like a crappy design/setup. I plan on priming on my Hornady LNL, sizing on the Lee only.
 
I'm going to bump this thread because if you hate case trimming, you need to try my new favorite case trimmer. Here's a review I wrote:

http://www.massreloading.com/trimit2.html

What sets this apart from others like it (and even the Giraud) is that you can easily adjust the cutter not only for different calibers, but you can fine tune it to adjust the way it chamfers whatever caliber you have it set up for.
 
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The coolest part about the trim it II is that the new cutter looks like it's adaptable to the old body. So, if you're in my shoes (with 4 different case family adapters) this trimmer just became a huge time saver.
 
Andrew, glad to hear you got it figured out.

I've got 4400 pieces that have to go through my trimmer, sometimes I HATE case trimming.
I'll have to make 2 sessions out of it.
 
I'm going to bump this thread because if you hate case trimming, you need to try my new favorite case trimmer. Here's a review I wrote:

http://www.massreloading.com/trimit2.html

What sets this apart from others like it (and even the Giraud) is that you can easily adjust the cutter not only for different calibers, but you can fine tune it to adjust the way it chamfers whatever caliber you have it set up for.

I might have to pick one of these up. Thanks!
 
I got mine today, spent a few minutes setting it up. The instructions supplied don't do a good job at setting it up, and the review eddie did is spot on.
 
I decided to purchase a L.E.Wilson lathe trimmer, mainly because my focus is long range precision rifle. I have been using an RCBS trimmer, which got the job done, but was hard to keep consistent, and I dreaded setting it up and trimming. I thought I was be going from a Model A to a Cadillac in performance, and it turns out I have a Rolls! Did a batch of 50 cases, measured each one, and they all gave the same reading on my dial caliper! Three turns on each case and I was done. I'm in lust.
 
I cant find the picture but i put 4 5 gallon bucks of .223 throught my dillion 1050 in one session.After that i loaded one 5 gallon pail. My dillion 1050 bacame almost useless.i bought everything i needed for a rebuild...like $325.. if ive loaded over 150k rounds on it and that two times through it that 300,000 strokes....just a real ruff estimate of how well it held up.. all with the autodrive.
it only consumes the plastic primer orifices every 2-3000 strokes
Decapping pins and holder milages varries and depends if your watching the machine or just letting her go.

and before i even used it or had the autodrive installed i broke a shell plate by cycling it with the toolhead on it. Failed to fully index amd the primer swager damaged the shell holder.i felt so dumb because i knew without the toolhead that this could happen
 
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