-
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
-
Be sure to enter the NES/MFS May Giveaway ***Canik METE SFX***
CMP M1 Garand where to begin?
- Thread starter shiprec13
- Start date
OfficerObie59
NES Member
- Joined
- May 3, 2009
- Messages
- 5,419
- Likes
- 1,899
Frankly, I'm of the opinion you don't need to replace the springs until they fail. Have a set ready to go in case, but otherwise, I'd leave them alone.
If you shatter the op rod spring during the first few months, the CMP will send you a new one.
I ended up making my own bolt tool. I originally intended to make one just for the M1 Carbine bolt (if you think the Garand bolt is bad, the Carbine is a whole different level of ass suckage), but I had enough materials left over to build one for my M1 and M1A.
Couple pieces of wood, some lock nuts and wing nuts, and an old piece of brass. I used a dremel and a drill.
If you shatter the op rod spring during the first few months, the CMP will send you a new one.
The cleaning tools are great for disassembly, but putting it back together, well, that always sucks.
I ended up making my own bolt tool. I originally intended to make one just for the M1 Carbine bolt (if you think the Garand bolt is bad, the Carbine is a whole different level of ass suckage), but I had enough materials left over to build one for my M1 and M1A.
Couple pieces of wood, some lock nuts and wing nuts, and an old piece of brass. I used a dremel and a drill.
Last edited:
Large screwdriver will do. The 1/4" drive set up I use probably no more torque than the large screw driver. The 1/4" square of the extension fits very nice.
If you ever had a gas plug screw come loose in the middle of a match you will know if it was tight enough..(note always check it before and keep the tool handy at a match)
OfficerObie59 there is some insight to this. If your not familure with detail stripping or want to tackle this right away. Field strip clean and go shooting. DO order a replacement kit though.
IMHO. When you detail strip replace all the springs, keep the old ones as spares. Heck order 2 kits. We need to think that a lot of these springs are 50+ years old....no idea how much use.
In the 8 years I been shooting m1 in different rifles I have had springs fail
Oprod, clip latch(several) clip ejection spring, bolts 2 extractors and 3 ejectors
It might be in my head but everyone of my service grades got a complete spring kit install. I think they sound better and improves accuracy?
OfficerObie59
NES Member
- Joined
- May 3, 2009
- Messages
- 5,419
- Likes
- 1,899
It's a good idea for sure, but I never noticed a big accuracy boost from spring replacement. Plus, it's mainly the op rod spring you should be concerned with.
My whole point is have an extra spring kit on hand. And if you really want to change a spring, take the new and the old op rod spring and compare. If the new one is anymore than 1 1/2" longer, replace the thing. Other than that, I think someone with their first new CMP Garand should learn and be comfortable field stripping without instructions before they start detail stripping and getting overwhelmed from having all 57 parts laid out on the bench in front of them. YMMV.
Sweeney
NES Member
I got bored one day and made a few 'sockets' that you can use with a torque wrench. Some like to be exact when assembling their competition rifles. Me... i just felt like fiddling with my mill and lathe. These are W1 tool steel I had floating around.
Then I made one to get past the T37 flash hider. Gave it to one of the well respected M1/M14 armorers.
...and a hand wrench...
Then I made one to get past the T37 flash hider. Gave it to one of the well respected M1/M14 armorers.
...and a hand wrench...
Last edited:
Sweeney
NES Member
I get ideas in my head and wonder...'could I make that?' Then I go about trying to figure it out. It beats trying to find something decent to watch on TV.
![[grin]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/041.gif "Grin [grin]")
I get ideas in my head and wonder...'could I make that?' Then I go about trying to figure it out. It beats trying to find something decent to watch on TV.
I'm with you on this. I don't even have a proper work bench or work space for that matter. I would make all sorts of things with a lathe or mill of some sort.
Nice stuff
I did the spring kit in mine after I'd detail stripped it, cleaned & lubed and fired 100+ rounds thru it after I got it from CMP. It functioned just fine and pretty accurate but I figured I'd swap out all the springs and keep the originals for spares and that way I'd know exactly the condition of all the springs in it. I noticed a couple of them were noticeably stronger than the originals, op rod being one, so I'm curious to get out and try it and see the difference.
I have not done my latest HRA springs yet. I will get out soon and put 20 rounds on target from a rest, then replace all the springs and retest with same HXP ammo. Like I said it might be a head game thing BUT the noise from a old weak springed garand is more of a rattleNclink than that of fresh new springs. New op rod springs seem to get rid of that "noise" like metal is banging off each other ? maybe its just me?
I finally got out to the range today. The Garand rocked! I think I still need to tweek the rear sight a little but I was able to ring the steel at a 100 yards a couple of times. It was a combination range trip to sight the Garnad as well as my first AR build. I hooked up with another NESer who is local to me who also brought out a few of his toys to play with as well. Got to shoot an AK and a Springfeild M1.
Still the star of the day was the Garand. I saw another gentleman at the club eyeing it and so after things settled down and we had our fun I had to go over with a clip and get another shooter hooked.
Thanks to all for the great advice. The Garand is so much fun to shoot and just feels REAL and RIGHT. I can't wait for my next range trip!
Still the star of the day was the Garand. I saw another gentleman at the club eyeing it and so after things settled down and we had our fun I had to go over with a clip and get another shooter hooked.
Thanks to all for the great advice. The Garand is so much fun to shoot and just feels REAL and RIGHT. I can't wait for my next range trip!
Nice... I like to "zero" my garand. @ 50 yards to get the windage zeroed. I like the rear sight to centered for my no wind zero. As for elevation garands are all different in their "clicks " up. I don't bother "calibrating" the elevation drum.
I find my 100 yard zero and make a small reference with paint on the drum and reciever. I bottom out my sights when I put rifle away.
I'm itching to get out.
Has anyone had difficulty in getting the rear sight to lock in place sufficiently tight so as to keep from falling during shooting/handling?
A Garand was previously very inconsistent and after a detail strip, cleaning, lube and replacement spring/ejector kit from Orion, I shot this at 25 yards:
The first three in the ring labeled, "Sighting" were for reference. I adjusted the sights four clicks up and drilled the bullseye nicely, in the "Zeroed" ring.
After shooting at some other targets, handling the gun, another shooter fired it, handling some more, I shot another couple of clips at the same target. Without a spotting scope I didn't notice that the sights had fallen significantly, as shown in the third ring, "Fallen Sights."
I tightened the screw a bit, but it almost felt like it bottomed out without really tightening. I did not tear down the sights when I detail stripped it. Any suggestions?
A Garand was previously very inconsistent and after a detail strip, cleaning, lube and replacement spring/ejector kit from Orion, I shot this at 25 yards:
The first three in the ring labeled, "Sighting" were for reference. I adjusted the sights four clicks up and drilled the bullseye nicely, in the "Zeroed" ring.
After shooting at some other targets, handling the gun, another shooter fired it, handling some more, I shot another couple of clips at the same target. Without a spotting scope I didn't notice that the sights had fallen significantly, as shown in the third ring, "Fallen Sights."
I tightened the screw a bit, but it almost felt like it bottomed out without really tightening. I did not tear down the sights when I detail stripped it. Any suggestions?
Sweeney
NES Member
The screw on the elevation knob is for adjusting the indicator 'drum' on the shaft. The nut on the windage knob pulls the elevation knob into the serrations. I'd bet the nut is loose. Also, make sure the spring plate exerts sufficient force on the aperture.
And it all becomes clear! Thanks for this.
OfficerObie59
NES Member
- Joined
- May 3, 2009
- Messages
- 5,419
- Likes
- 1,899
That's why you zero the rifle and count X number of clicks until you bottom out the elevation knob. Loosen the screw, and turn the elevation knob (which should now not be moving the aperture) and set it for your zero distance minus X number of clicks.
That way, you're turning the screw against a bottomed out knob and can crank it tight.
If it's clicking when you're shooting, likely the grooves on the receiver are worn. That means a trip to a gunsmith.
You could also try getting WWII style lockbar sights. Troops didn't like them because they were a pain to adjust, but competition shooters like them because they hold the setting very well.
Last edited:
If you can actually find New old stock USGI that would be ok but most likely it will all be used stuff.
I find nothing wrong with the wolffe springs or the ones by orion7. I like orion7 as they have a decent package. I get the complete kits with bolt rebuild parts. I have had enough ejector and extractor failures to make it worth it.
A new spring cover can help alot but I would go back through the sight dis/re assembly again. you want the rear sight tight enough to allow adjustment and also not be able to push the peep sight down with your thumb< mutch like loading a clip. if you can push the rear peep assembly down with your thumb its to loose. If you cant turn the drum its to tight. when you finally get your rifle zero,d to where you like. buy a luggage tag and put it on your front stacking swivel. X clicks up for x yardage. I dont bother zdjusting the drums. cant see the numbers anyway. I do reference marks with paint pen
Last edited:
