AR-15 Shopping List: First Time Builder

[BW23]

Hey Hey All,

Could you experienced AR builders help me out with a good shopping list for an AR-15 Build? Please list out the parts and/or kits with the manufacturer and seen price? If possible shipping cost too.

My Objective: Build a good mil-spec AR-15 for around $850. Buying parts here and there as funds become available.
My Comparison: I love the Stag Arms Model 3 but I of course I need some sights .
Needs: 5.56 calibur, Mil Spec parts
Wants: Flip up sights and/or Rod Dot Sight

First Big Question: Can I build an AR-15 similar to Stag Model 3 and cheaper, Under $850??

My AR-15 Grocery List so far:
1) Spike's Stripped Lower Receiver ($125) - [Bought]

Like I said, I'm a first time builder but looking forward to building my own AR. I just want to do it right the first time. I've seen several video tutorials and seems fun. Of course any tips you have would be great too!

Thanks!
BW

 

[marvelshooter]

I just posted a picture in the members forum of the one I built on a NES group buy lower that came in right at the price you are looking for. The upper is a RRA mid length flat top. It can be done with careful shopping.

 

[atmay]

What level of building are you actually looking to do?

 

[Acme.Armament]

What level of building are you actually looking to do?

This.

Stag 3H upper MSRP at $465 (this is complete)
Your lower 125
LPK by RRA 69 (@ Acme)
Buttstock ~ $60 - 120
Total $ 719 - 779

Sights, (Acme prices)
Magpul MBUS, $38.95 front & $64.95 rear = $103.90
BSA RD30 red dot $40
Millet RD00005 red dot $74.49

Building an AR for ~ $850 = do able.

 

[BW23]

What level of building are you actually looking to do?

Bear with me....what levels are there? Essentially I would like to assembly every piece i can. Figured this is the most fun and cheapest way. If i'm grossly wrong please tell me. Acme posted some good info and it had a completed upper. How much less is it if i build the upper??

I found some good helpful sights on step by step assembling instructions for a complete lower and upper builds.

I just don't know which websites will and can ship to Mass and also the general pricing.

 

[mac67]

http://www.ar15sales.com

Short answer. Yes for $850.00

Forgot to mention/ask. If you are in MA Stag will build it AWB compliant for no up-charge

 

[atmay]

A "build" can range anywhere from buying a complete lower and complete upper and joining them, to buying all the parts unassembled and putting the whole thing together.

IMO, the best combination of value and ease is to buy a stripped lower, an LPK, a stock, and a complete upper.

A complete build can be cheaper, but not always. It depends on what you buy for parts, and from how many/which vendors.


Second question: what do you want to use the rifle for?

 

[BW23]

http://www.ar15sales.com

Short answer. Yes for $850.00

Forgot to mention/ask. If you are in MA Stag will build it AWB compliant for no up-charge

Yes, I am in Mass. So I'm pigeon-holed to many restrictions [sad2]

 

[BW23]

A "build" can range anywhere from buying a complete lower and complete upper and joining them, to buying all the parts unassembled and putting the whole thing together.

IMO, the best combination of value and ease is to buy a stripped lower, an LPK, a stock, and a complete upper.

A complete build can be cheaper, but not always. It depends on what you buy for parts, and from how many/which vendors.


Second question: what do you want to use the rifle for?

That's what I figured. But after watching a few do it yourself vids on complete assemblies, I can definitely manage. I definitely hear you on your idea of the
-stripped lower
-LPK
-Stock
-Complete Upper

I'm mainly going to use the AR for range shooting and home defense. Way down the line I may try some lower tier competitions for S & Giggles.

What did you do for your build?

 

[atmay]

I

That's what I figured. But after watching a few do it yourself vids on complete assemblies, I can definitely manage. I definitely hear you on your idea of the
-stripped lower
-LPK
-Stock
-Complete Upper

I'm mainly going to use the AR for range shooting and home defense. Way down the line I may try some lower tier competitions for S & Giggles.

What did you do for your build?

My AR is a lower I built myself, and a complete Spikes upper. Its a 16" midlength with their heavy FF rail.

If you're planning on using your rifle for HD, Spikes, LMT and BCM all have solid milspec offerings that can be had for short money if you order them in a basic configuration.

 

[BW23]

I

My AR is a lower I built myself, and a complete Spikes upper. Its a 16" midlength with their heavy FF rail.

If you're planning on using your rifle for HD, Spikes, LMT and BCM all have solid milspec offerings that can be had for short money if you order them in a basic configuration.

How much was your Spikes upper?

 

[crazymjb]

Check out sites like DSGarms and Rainier arms for the best prices. Personally, I'd set your price cap a little higher and buy once cry once for a few of the extras. Something like a rail just get what you truly want because its a pain in the ass to swap out later assuming you pin and weld your muzzle break on.

My main recommendations are as follows
1) Go as light as possible. Lightweight rail/handguard. Lightweight profile barrel, lightweight butt stock. The heavier government profile barrels are that way to support a grenade launcher and full auto fire. A light barrel will not overheat with anything you will put through it, and will save you some weight up front. If you don't want or need rails throughout the length of the forend, I'd get a free float tube with a continuous top rail and bolt on side rails for where you need them. These are also pretty cheap.
2) If you want a maneuverable rifle, get a 14.5 inch barrel since you have to permanently attach the muzzle break on it anyway assuming you are in Mass. Go with the mid-length gas system for this configuration. I'd also recommend a good quality barrel, and you'll still be able to reach out with the rifle plenty far
3) Get the muzzle brake you want, since that thing is more or less going to be what your stuck with after its pinned and welded on. It is possible to change them, but its not wicked easy.

I built a great rifle that I compromised on some of the parts for in the interest of saving money. I ended up selling it and building what I wanted in the first place. Cost me a bit more, but I am truly happy about everything on the rifle.

Mike

 

[Tackdriver VillenTactical]

Not to nit pick, but did you want real mil-spec parts or something that just looks mil-spec? Its a given you are not going full auto, but what does mil-spec mean to you?

Dave

 

[atmay]

How much was your Spikes upper?

I think it was about $680 shipped, and no ban compliance mods done.

 

[mac1911]

If shopping out for parts is done right you can keep cost down. Where if can get tricky is shipping cost for some of the items. Shippingcost can get costly if you buy from many sources.
some ways to save money.
don't be afraid of used parts if purchased from someone/somewhere with a good Rep.
used items that tend to not be a problem. Stocks, handguards,depending on set up detachable sights/ carry hanble.
I got a great deal on a slightly used barrel complete with delta rings nut and sight. Seller switched out to a bull barrel free float set up. 50.00 my cost shipped.
I also got a nice barrel that had the threads on the muzzle messed up. Deeply discounted. 85.00 shop around.
I also found a good amount of parts just by asking around. These ar, s been around axlong time. I had a complete bolt assembly given to me. The gent was tired of looking ag it in his parts box. He sold off all his ar stuff in the 80s after he stopped shooting service rifle.

Why are you thinking ar for HD.....wouldn't it be better to have a shotgun or handgun....
If your looking for something with intention of shooting in any of the shooting games keep in mind the game you will want to play. A 16 " carbine isn't ideal choice for cmp/nra type of matches. Also look to see how many and how far some of these games are from you. When I was single no kids it wasn't a problem. After marriage I looked into 3 gun. At the time I could not find anything within 2hr drive of me. So adding 4 hours to a shooting day is out for me.

Good luck get on mailing list of all the site listed and watch for deals.

 

[atmay]

Mac, the AR is actually a fantastic HD weapon. They're lighter and shorter than the average tactical shotgun, with less recoil and way more capacity. 5.56 is also about the "best" for overpenetration while remaining a viable man-stopping round (it doesn't do well with typical housing materials, where HD shotshells and pistol rounds do).

 

[BW23]

Check out sites like DSGarms and Rainier arms for the best prices. Personally, I'd set your price cap a little higher and buy once cry once for a few of the extras. Something like a rail just get what you truly want because its a pain in the ass to swap out later assuming you pin and weld your muzzle break on.

My main recommendations are as follows
1) Go as light as possible. Lightweight rail/handguard. Lightweight profile barrel, lightweight butt stock. The heavier government profile barrels are that way to support a grenade launcher and full auto fire. A light barrel will not overheat with anything you will put through it, and will save you some weight up front. If you don't want or need rails throughout the length of the forend, I'd get a free float tube with a continuous top rail and bolt on side rails for where you need them. These are also pretty cheap.
2) If you want a maneuverable rifle, get a 14.5 inch barrel since you have to permanently attach the muzzle break on it anyway assuming you are in Mass. Go with the mid-length gas system for this configuration. I'd also recommend a good quality barrel, and you'll still be able to reach out with the rifle plenty far
3) Get the muzzle brake you want, since that thing is more or less going to be what your stuck with after its pinned and welded on. It is possible to change them, but its not wicked easy.

I built a great rifle that I compromised on some of the parts for in the interest of saving money. I ended up selling it and building what I wanted in the first place. Cost me a bit more, but I am truly happy about everything on the rifle.

Mike

What was your cost for the previous AR and your current AR?

- - - Updated - - -

Not to nit pick, but did you want real mil-spec parts or something that just looks mil-spec? Its a given you are not going full auto, but what does mil-spec mean to you?

Dave

I'd like mil-spec just based on reliability and durability. I shoot often and once I get my AR built it'll be shot quite a bit.

 

[Madball13]

I'd like mil-spec just based on reliability and durability. I shoot often and once I get my AR built it'll be shot quite a bit.

Keep in mind advertised mil-spec is not exactly mil-spec. A company like stag will advertise mil spec but when you research it out they don't actually build there guns to true mil spec unless you pay them extra to do so. For instance the mil-spec for a barrel means the proper steel, barrel twist (1/7) and testing. Stag sells uppers that are different steel, 1/9 twist and completes batch testing and not individual testing on production runs.

If you want reliability and durability i would bump up your $$ figure and look at Colt, DD, LMT, LWRC and skip the other manufactures like Stag. Also be wary of people who have a certain brand and claim it is flawless and a perfect gun and remember not every Pinto was crap but enough were for people to stop buying them.

 

[crazymjb]

What was your cost for the previous AR and your current AR?

- - - Updated - - -



I'd like mil-spec just based on reliability and durability. I shoot often and once I get my AR built it'll be shot quite a bit.

Not including sights (an accessory in my opinion) my first AR was probably in the neighborhood of 900 bucks, and my current one is closer to 1200. The only real "more expensive" parts were I went with the cheapest muzzle brake I could last time, and I went with a $100 FSC556 this time. I also went with YHM diamond free float rails for about 150 bucks last time, I went with the lighter DD Lite rails ($350) this time. I also went with a lightweight barrel with a pinned gas block this time, vs the "government profile" with set screw gas block last time. You are talking maybe a 35-40 dollar price difference there as both times I used good name brand barrels, although this time I went with a daniel defense barrel, which are slightly pricey.

You really don't need rails down the hole for-end, so if you were on a budget you can save yourself some money by going with something like this: http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2963

The only reason I went with the Daniel Defense is that I really liked the look, it weighs about the same as a free float tube (but you've gotta pay), and with slightly bigger hands I liked the wider setup. 2 of my friends on a more strict budget went with the tubes, and they are happy. I WOULD NOT go with something like the YHM rail again, as it was noticeably heavier. Also, I would get the shortest rail you need. With a mid-length gas system 10 inches will be covering 90% of the gas block. You really don't need it to go any farther forward and the less weight up front the better.

The thing is, if you are pinning your muzzle brake on, you are often committing to whatever rail setup you have, so buy once cry once.

Even though there is nothing wrong with a set screw gas block, I have a little more confidence in the taper pinned gas block I have on there now. There is absolutely no way that thing is going anywhere.

So here is my shopping list:

1: AXTS A-Dac-F lower receiver
2: Spikes battle trigger
3: Generic LPK Sans trigger
4: Milspec receiver extension, spring, and carbine buffer
5: Magpul ACS-L stock
6: Ergo grip

7: Spikes upper
8: Spikes FA BCG
9: BCM Gunfighter Mod 4 Charging handle
10: Daniel Defense 14.5 lightweight profile pinned low pro gas block cold hammer forged barrel
11: Daniel Defense lite rail 10" rail system
12: Generic mid-length gas tube + pin
13: FSC 556 muzzle brake
14: KAC Micro front and rear Buis

Mike

 

[BW23]

Keep in mind advertised mil-spec is not exactly mil-spec. A company like stag will advertise mil spec but when you research it out they don't actually build there guns to true mil spec unless you pay them extra to do so. For instance the mil-spec for a barrel means the proper steel, barrel twist (1/7) and testing. Stag sells uppers that are different steel, 1/9 twist and completes batch testing and not individual testing on production runs.

If you want reliability and durability i would bump up your $$ figure and look at Colt, DD, LMT, LWRC and skip the other manufactures like Stag. Also be wary of people who have a certain brand and claim it is flawless and a perfect gun and remember not every Pinto was crap but enough were for people to stop buying them.

For me the mass producers of "mil-spec" is OK with me. I definitely understand they wouldn't test every one like real mil-spec. But for the upper I may have to increase my cost up a little. How much cheaper is the assembled upper vs all parts for upper to assembly? Is it $675 vs $400? That would definitely help with my final decision. I think I'll start with building the Lower for the time being.

 

[Madball13]

For me the mass producers of "mil-spec" is OK with me. I definitely understand they wouldn't test every one like real mil-spec. But for the upper I may have to increase my cost up a little. How much cheaper is the assembled upper vs all parts for upper to assembly? Is it $675 vs $400? That would definitely help with my final decision. I think I'll start with building the Lower for the time being.

And that's fine just remember you are sacrificing quality, reliability and durability.

 

[rivethead147]

Welcome to the black rifle!

There was another poster earlier that asked what level of build you want to do and that is a fair question. the upper build requires some tools which you do not have and will have to invest into in order to get the build done right, and some tools can be found cheap while others you have no choice but to pay what the market demands.

consider if this is the one off build or you plan to really get into the AR build and do all upgrades your self, if it is the latter than tool investment at this stage isn't a bad idea but if it is the former, see if you can borrow the tools and failing that, you may at that point want to consider buying a built upper and seeing that you are going for a Stag Model 3, I believe another NESer suggested just buying the stag upper, which are cheap and built really well and fall within your 'mil-spec' parameter.

as for pursuing the entire build, its honestly not hard and I encourage everyone that gets in to it to give a build a try.

good luck with your soon to be black rifle

 

[crazymjb]

You are talking a negligible price difference in buying vs building, especially once tools are factored in. A basic upper with quality parts will start around 600 bucks.

Mike

 

[BW23]

Personally I would like to do the entire build. Just because I love this stuff.

As for prices it seems as though some of you think it's relatively the same cost (when tools are factored in).

 

[crazymjb]

It IS relatively the same cost. The way you will save is if you do it right the first time, you won't end up with a bunch of extra parts. Nobody made a rifle exactly as I wanted it, so I built one. At this point I've done 5 builds (not all for me). I'm pretty much sold on simplicity and light weight at this point, and buying quality components, but what do I know.

Mike

 

[Coyote33]

I am also interested in this, so will weigh in a bit. I'm looking for a range shooter/plinker/basic AR. I don't ever plan to compete with it, nor am I going to enter it into a beauty contest. I would build what I can, but don't mind seeking help when offered or available. People here are very generous and helpful.

...You really don't need rails down the hole for-end, so if you were on a budget you can save yourself some money by going with something like this: http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2963...Mike

I don't think $151 is "saving yourself some money". Right now, I'm looking at some hand me down stock stocks.


I'll replace what mjb has with what I am planning or have:

...
So here is my shopping list:
1: [STRIKE]AXTS A-Dac-F lower receiver[/STRIKE]NES YHM "group buy" lower
2: [STRIKE]Spikes battle trigger[/STRIKE]hand me down, used "stock" trigger or Remsport "tuned" trigger
3: [STRIKE]Generic LPK Sans trigger [/STRIKE]hand me down, used "stock" trigger or Remsport "tuned" trigger
4: [STRIKE]Milspec receiver extension, spring, and carbine buffer[/STRIKE]used buffer tube, buffer and spring
5: [STRIKE]Magpul ACS-L stock[/STRIKE]hand me down, used "stock" stock
6: [STRIKE]Ergo grip[/STRIKE]hand me down, used "stock" grip

subtotal so far: less than $200

7: [STRIKE]Spikes upper[/STRIKE]not sure yet A2 (with handle) upper
8: [STRIKE]Spikes FA BCG[/STRIKE]
9: [STRIKE]BCM Gunfighter Mod 4 Charging handle[/STRIKE]hand me down, used "stock" charging handle
10:[STRIKE]Daniel Defense 14.5 lightweight profile pinned low pro gas block cold hammer forged barrel[/STRIKE]hand me down, used barrel if available, or low cost, but decent 20" barrel
11: [STRIKE]Daniel Defense lite rail 10" rail system[/STRIKE]hand me down, used "stock" stock, eventually a triangular "retro" stock
12: [STRIKE]Generic mid-length gas tube + pin[/STRIKE]full length gas tube
13: [STRIKE]FSC 556 muzzle brake [/STRIKE]plain barrel or used "brake" ;-)
14: [STRIKE]KAC Micro front and rear Buis[/STRIKE]basic mil-spec sights
Mike

subtotal: ???

Personally I would like to do the entire build. Just because I love this stuff.

As for prices it seems as though some of you think it's relatively the same cost (when tools are factored in).

What tools? I thought this was all done with "the tools you have".

It IS relatively the same cost. The way you will save is if you do it right the first time, you won't end up with a bunch of extra parts. Nobody made a rifle exactly as I wanted it, so I built one. At this point I've done 5 builds (not all for me). I'm pretty much sold on simplicity and light weight at this point, and buying quality components, but what do I know.

I would gladly accept someone else's "extra parts".


Replaced prices with my versions (best guess) from above:

This.

Stag 3H upper MSRP at $465 (this is complete)
Your lower 125
LPK by RRA [STRIKE]69[/STRIKE]53
Buttstock [STRIKE] 60-120[/STRIKE]0
Total $ [STRIKE]719 - 779[/STRIKE]689 (this is using the "fancy" Stag upper)

savings:
16+
60-120
=76-136

Sights, (Acme prices)
[STRIKE]Magpul MBUS, $38.95 front & $64.95 rear = $103.90[/STRIKE]
BSA RD30 red dot $40
[STRIKE]Millet RD00005 red dot $74.49[/STRIKE]

Building an AR for ~ $850 = do able.

Yes.

Of course, you can also buy a Windham or an S&W M&P for less than $700 too.

A "build" can range anywhere from buying a complete lower and complete upper and joining them, to buying all the parts unassembled and putting the whole thing together.

IMO, the best combination of value and ease is to buy a stripped lower, an LPK, a stock, and a complete upper.

A complete build can be cheaper, but not always. It depends on what you buy for parts, and from how many/which vendors.

Second question: what do you want to use the rifle for?

I am attempting to cobble together something useable from people's discards. I just want to be careful to do this so as not to compromise reliability at the cost of prettiness.

I think it was about $680 shipped, and no ban compliance mods done.

Yeehaw!

If shopping out for parts is done right you can keep cost down. Where if can get tricky is shipping cost for some of the items. Shippingcost can get costly if you buy from many sources.
some ways to save money.
don't be afraid of used parts if purchased from someone/somewhere with a good Rep.
used items that tend to not be a problem. Stocks, handguards,depending on set up detachable sights/ carry handle.
I got a great deal on a slightly used barrel complete with delta rings nut and sight. Seller switched out to a bull barrel free float set up. 50.00 my cost shipped.
I also got a nice barrel that had the threads on the muzzle messed up. Deeply discounted. 85.00 shop around.
I also found a good amount of parts just by asking around. These ar, s been around axlong time. I had a complete bolt assembly given to me. The gent was tired of looking ag it in his parts box. He sold off all his ar stuff in the 80s after he stopped shooting service rifle.

Good luck get on mailing list of all the site listed and watch for deals.

Yes. I have a couple leads to folks with duplicate items. Sometimes the travel to get them negates the low (or no) cost of the item. Might work better for you. Plus, I've been working around some car issues, so have had a hard time getting to some of these offers.

You are talking a negligible price difference in buying vs building, especially once tools are factored in. A basic upper with quality parts will start around 600 bucks.

Again, an M&P Sport and maybe a Windham is just a little over that. Had I known this, I may have just skipped the lower group buy at the time. Now I am on a ride, trying to learn and build as I go.

 

[mac1911]

Right now shipping is cheaper than driving. Dependant on item of course.
As for saveings you wont save all that much trying to build a standard ar ....or production model. Now try replicating the s&w Mp tactical with the full float tube and upgraded barrel. Better yet go to spikes or RRA and go through there opptions. Then shop around for the parts. Also depending on style. Houge makes a decent free float tube for less money than most....cruising the want adds and equipment exchange on ar 15. Com is a must. I was looking to get back to basics and wanted a rifle length a2 with fixed handle.
I had a stag h2 carbine to trade. Took all but a day to find someone going the other way.
traded straight up.....both happy. Good thing about the tools is if you buy them and find yourself not useing them you wont loose your shirt on resale. Also you can be helpful to others and help those that may need help with tools, payback can be very good for helping others....last person gave me a nice older pelletgun for helping him sight in his rifle. Have fun the ar platform screams for constant change....still unsure what to put atop my recent nes group buy LOWER?

 

[crazymjb]

Sorry that was my shopping list for what I found the ideal accurate, durable, functional "lightweight" platform to be, without dumping absurd amounts of money for a name.

Maybe you'll be happy with a cobbled together rifle. There is no reason it can't be great as a budget rifle. Just not my cup of tea, and in my experience, when you don't get the AR thing right, you try again.

Also bear in mind if any of you guys are military, LEO, NRA instructors, or even EMS sometimes some of these sites have 10-20% discounts on various items and parts.

And $151 is saving yourself money over this: http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=465

Mike

 

[BW23]

So majority of you experienced folks say almost no price difference. That's good to know.

I'd be able to drop a $100 here and there so I'll gather up parts as I go. Obviously lightweight is a want but maybe not for my first build. I'm definitely going to start building the lower.

As for the upper, i feel like there are SO MANY darn choices it's mind numbing. Besides the barrel, how much of an effect does the maker for the gas tubes, blocks, etc make?

Hopefully most of the sites you guys posted are willing to ship to Taxachusetts. Keep the tips and advice coming! I'm all ears!

 

[crazymjb]

Assuming the gas tube is "In spec" they really don't make a difference. The only real differences with gas blocks, again assuming they are in spec, is their method of attachment. The 3 primary types are taper pinned, set screwed, and clamp on, with taper pinning being accepted as the preferred method. While you can taper pin yourself, its ideal to buy the barrel from the manufacturer already pinned, so order the barrel and gas block as a combo. Taper pinning involves a tapered pin that goes through the gas block and across a drilled groove in the barrel. If done right, its practically impossible for the gas block to rotate or move. Set crew gas blocks usually have one or two allen screws that tighten against the barrel. Often people will dimple the barrel where these screws go in to keep the gas block indexed. Finally you have clamp on gas blocks, which do pretty much as they sound.

The big question is, is one method really better than another. Taper pinning is tried and true and how the front sight posts are done on military rifles. I have heard that a properly clamped gas block will not go anywhere either. Likewise, I have heard the set screw method is pretty secure if done right. If a block is taper pinned on (you'll get it from the factory if you order it like that) you just punch the pin out, put on the barrel nut, and then re-pin.

You need to come to a decision on what length barrel you want. My recommendation holds at 14.5 since you need to pin and weld in Mass anyway. For that setup, I would go with a mid length light profile barrel, which shouldn't cost any more than another barrel of that quality in that length. I know BCM carries them for 230, and depending on how you want to run the gas block I'm sure they'd throw a low pro one on there for an extra 50 bucks.

Mike