They make CF as well but research characteristics before assuming it is stronger.
Your snide comments about home gun printing are unwelcome, at best.
Your snide comments about home gun printing are unwelcome, at best.
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3D printing
- Thread starter NH Phantom
- Start date
pastera
NES Member
I like that they actually give you the technical data along with the models used to gather the data.
PolyMide™ PA6-GF
PolyMide™ PA6-GF is a glass fiber reinforced PA6 (Nylon 6) filament. The material exhibits excellent thermal and mechanical properties without sacrificing the layer adhesion. Printing, Drying and Annealing Settings? Printing Temperature: 280˚C - 300˚CBed Temperature: 25˚C - 50˚CPrinting Speed...us.polymaker.com
@ $100 for a 2kg spool it's also extremely cheap for a mid performance filament (next jump up in temperature resistance is close to $200 for a 500g spool or 1/8 the cost)
I’ve had very good results from their stuff and yes, they provide a full technical breakdown which allows you to choose the best filament for the application.
Also, their GF nylon prints MUCH better than any of the stuff I got off Matterhackers.
i had to do a deep dive to find what was actually code doing to produce the error and it was a check on exceeding raw value checks from thermistor.
another deeper dive gave some tech data on the damn new spyder pro extruder - it uses a NTC100K B3950 thermistor.
that shit requries, apparently, the TEMP_SENSOR_0 to be set to 11 or 13 instead of 1.
nothing nowhere states that. trying now, it seems to go now to beyond 300 temps. will see what good will that do.
another deeper dive gave some tech data on the damn new spyder pro extruder - it uses a NTC100K B3950 thermistor.
that shit requries, apparently, the TEMP_SENSOR_0 to be set to 11 or 13 instead of 1.
nothing nowhere states that. trying now, it seems to go now to beyond 300 temps. will see what good will that do.
It’s fairly common to need non default codes when replacing the thermister. And no, they are not well documented officially but there are tons of threads in various forums covering it.
it was a whole hotend replacement - the sprite pro direct drive extruder. they claimed it needs no code or params change - the only way to see that thermistor was actually replaced is to go to aliexpress and search for official creality replacement parts. well, now it seems to be crapping out about 320 deg that is closer to reality, i think. that thermistor should be good up to 350 deg.
i can only wish there would be an easy way to check that the heck the actual temperature there is, as it gets hot. the cold one seems to match the bed.
there does not seem to be anything on any forums for s1 pro extruders. it is where they use new spider pro rated to 300deg. an official configuration file in marlin for it also uses a type 1 for the thermistor. well, will see how old prints will work now.
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namedpipes
NES Member
Yup...print your own reloader !!!
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You realize that was an affiliate link, not a regular link, right?
![[rofl]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/013.gif "ROFL [rofl]")
Was it about what print from that carbon fiber enforced nylon?You realize that was an affiliate link, not a regular link, right?
So I have a super cheap crappie chinese printer where all it did was waste filament.
I backed the AnkerMake on kickstarter and it showed up the day before yesterday.
I just printed this. I'm a complete noob, but it came out well
Now, I'm trying to print this (it's part of a present for someone). I scaled it up so it would be about 5inches tall, but every time I try to print it fails just when the pedestal part of the chair starts.
Any help here?
www.thingiverse.com
I backed the AnkerMake on kickstarter and it showed up the day before yesterday.
I just printed this. I'm a complete noob, but it came out well
Now, I'm trying to print this (it's part of a present for someone). I scaled it up so it would be about 5inches tall, but every time I try to print it fails just when the pedestal part of the chair starts.
Any help here?
1-87 Barbers chair HO scale by ThatEmuGuy
Source file https://free3d.com/3d-model/barber-s-chair-v2--649221.html Scaled down for HO scale model train
www.thingiverse.com
if you sliced it with cura - did you activate supports?So I have a super cheap crappie chinese printer where all it did was waste filament.
I backed the AnkerMake on kickstarter and it showed up the day before yesterday.
I just printed this. I'm a complete noob, but it came out well
View attachment 701085
Now, I'm trying to print this (it's part of a present for someone). I scaled it up so it would be about 5inches tall, but every time I try to print it fails just when the pedestal part of the chair starts.
Any help here?
1-87 Barbers chair HO scale by ThatEmuGuy
Source file https://free3d.com/3d-model/barber-s-chair-v2--649221.html Scaled down for HO scale model train
you are done, man, this shit is crazy addictive.
here is all the stuff i made so far, in 3 months, and it keeps getting better. it is fun!
| eBay
www.ebay.com
which ankermake it was - an m5 3d?
looked up its specs, looks a bit odd to me - they say it has a direct extruder, which is nice, but max temp is limited to 260. odd.
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if you sliced it with cura - did you activate supports?
you are done, man, this shit is crazy addictive.
here is all the stuff i made so far, in 3 months, and it keeps getting better. it is fun!
| eBay
www.ebay.com
which ankermake it was - an m5 3d?
looked up its specs, looks a bit odd to me - they say it has a direct extruder, which is nice, but max temp is limited to 260. odd.
I used the slicer that came from Anker. Yes it's the Anker M5. So far it's awesome
if it shows you preview - look for supports option for slicing - it has to have it.
should look kinda like that in the preview - blue crap under the hanging up part of the model :
dunno anything about anker slicer. i think it works - the printer - with usual cura. i would use cura, unless there is a VERY serious reason not to.
UltiMaker Cura
UltiMaker Cura is free, easy-to-use 3D printing software trusted by millions of users. Fine-tune your 3D model with 400+ settings for the best slicing and printing results.
ultimaker.com
get cura, then get profiles for cura from CHEP
CHEP's Portfolio of 3D Models on Thangs
FilamentFriday.com YouTube Channel Thangs community collaborator.
0.2 and 0.28 are most universal ones for PLA that does not take an eternity to print.
Cura V5.1 ExtraFast (0.20) Profile from Filament Friday - 3D model by CHEP on Thangs
DESCRIPTION This is my ExtraFast Profile (0.20 layer height) for Cura version 5.1. Instructions: Here is a video showing how to load them: https://youtu.be/EJD1
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if it shows you preview - look for supports option for slicing - it has to have it.
should look kinda like that in the preview - blue crap under the hanging up part of the model :
View attachment 701096
dunno anything about anker slicer. i think it works - the printer - with usual cura. i would use cura, unless there is a VERY serious reason not to.
UltiMaker Cura
UltiMaker Cura is free, easy-to-use 3D printing software trusted by millions of users. Fine-tune your 3D model with 400+ settings for the best slicing and printing results.
get cura, then get profiles for cura from CHEP
CHEP's Portfolio of 3D Models on Thangs
FilamentFriday.com YouTube Channel Thangs community collaborator.thangs.com
0.2 and 0.28 are most universal ones for PLA that does not take an eternity to print.
Cura V5.1 ExtraFast (0.20) Profile from Filament Friday - 3D model by CHEP on Thangs
DESCRIPTION This is my ExtraFast Profile (0.20 layer height) for Cura version 5.1. Instructions: Here is a video showing how to load them: https://youtu.be/EJD1
Ahh... I get it. You would think it would be smart enough to automatically do supports for overhangs. I'll give it another try tonight.
rather interesting info - creality is going to offer a 10W laser for engraving.
all3dp.com
Creality Launches Laser Modules to Turn Your 3D Printer into a Laser Engraver/Cutter (Ad)
Creality has introduced three new laser modules compatible with more printer models, enabling users to leverage laser engraving and cutting on their 3D printer. (Sponsored Content)
all3dp.com
amazon returns on sale for peanuts - for those who likes to gamble
www.comgrow.com
Used Creality Printers From Amazon Return-[No Refund/Return]
Buy Creality refurbished Printers with a 1-Year Warranty Packing Notes: To ensure the safe delivery of our products, we repackage individual machines, but we guarantee that they will be original Creality machines.1. This item is 100% Creality Genuine 3D Printers. 2. We only offer after-sale...
www.comgrow.com
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Wait till microcenter offers their ender 3 pro for $100 again.amazon returns on sale for peanuts - for those who likes to gamble
Used Creality Printers From Amazon Return-[No Refund/Return]
Buy Creality refurbished Printers with a 1-Year Warranty Packing Notes: To ensure the safe delivery of our products, we repackage individual machines, but we guarantee that they will be original Creality machines.1. This item is 100% Creality Genuine 3D Printers. 2. We only offer after-sale...
I only gamble on guns
i will try a v2 for $109 free shipping. all i need is a working frame/power supply/motors. may get a complete broken junk, of course.Wait till microcenter offers their ender 3 pro for $100 again.
I only gamble on guns
then will swap out extruder for sprite pro with cr sensor combo that sells for $126 now. it makes a great combo, really, it if will work - a $240 printer that can do 310 degrees prints. so far my first modded v2 is running like a beast, prints everything perfectly great.
i run this sprite pro now for a while, and it does not clog at all, and pushes out pla+ at 100mm/s speed with no issues. really a great extruder. original extruder with tubes was just a non-stop pain, but this sprite is exceptional.
but if they ship me a junk frame, i can return this back to amazon, so, not a huge gamble.
Amazon product ASIN B0BCHCB96PView: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0BCHCB96P/ref=ox_ya_os_product
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Yeah you mod the crap out of your machine so it makes sense for you. Let us know how it works out.
richc
NES Member
I was trying to print out some gag gifts for Xmas and my trusty old Qidi, bought 7 or 8 years ago, decided it was time for the trash heap.
I broke the budget and ordered a Qidi I-Fast printer. Looks like a beast. And if I get 7 or 8 years worth of fun with it, well, I'll be happy!
Should be here next weekend!!!
I broke the budget and ordered a Qidi I-Fast printer. Looks like a beast. And if I get 7 or 8 years worth of fun with it, well, I'll be happy!
Should be here next weekend!!!
one day, maybe - i cannot justify $2k on a pro grade machine for what i do at the moment.
looks like a great machine, 350 degrees, dual extrusion - not sure why they did not put a dry chamber on top for filament, but i guess one can retrofit external dryer boxes up there.
well, by now i do know exactly well what i am doing with those bed slingers, as i sniffed through the design of this ender platform and most of its clones.
there are many out there now, ender clones as cheap as $140 new, but, who knows how will or will not parts match, etc. ender 3 v2 comes with practically all already done - the good silent 32 bit board, power supply with no gotchas, all connectors are actually just fine, etc. i looked through mine many times now, and it really needs only minimal things to be done to it. i did to mine more than was needed.
it is a shame that creality keep this new great sprire extruder on the S1 pro model only. and, realistically, pretty much nothing that come with s1 pro is needed at all - touch screen, dual Z screw, etc.
a base ender v2 + yellow bed springs + that sprite pro all metal extruder combo with cr touch sensor - it is all that is needed for a perfectly reliable machine that prints anything - any filament in the consumer segment up to 310 degrees C. and i keep mine on 0.4mm steel nozzle.
ideally - it would be a way better idea to get an ender 5 box frame - a larger one, ideally, and put this new sprite extruder into it - but it requires a different non-existent mount plate that needs to be crafted, and it is not clear if stock cables will actually fit, but one could reposition the board then.
i looked around, but even on aliexpress it does not seem to be cheap enough or even possible to get just a metal box frame alone with stepper motors and power supply, and keep it reasonably cheap. only way to get it cheap is to hunt for those comgrow sales on returns or used stuff, but, well. even there ender 5 frames are pricey - means no way in hell of getting one for $108, and for what i do, dunno how much faster it would actually be compared to a bed slinger.
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richc
NES Member
They sell dry box add-ons
Post christmas is great for returns. People open box, sees a hundred parts to assemble and just return it untouched.
Give it a week.
And the E3Pro is always $100 at MC, with the coupon.
If I ever ugprade, I'll just swing for the bambu lab x1
Give it a week.
And the E3Pro is always $100 at MC, with the coupon.
If I ever ugprade, I'll just swing for the bambu lab x1
Guys, do my layers look like slightly over extruding ?
pastera
NES Member
Something is definitely going on with your Z.
1 - Calibrate your e-steps
2 - print the calibration cube in vase mode so you get 1 wall.
Measure the width of the wall - if it's not 0.4mm then adjust your flow to fix.
You have serious elephant's foot
Try running the bed a little cooler and doing a temp tower to see if your extrusion temp is too high.
1 - Calibrate your e-steps
2 - print the calibration cube in vase mode so you get 1 wall.
Measure the width of the wall - if it's not 0.4mm then adjust your flow to fix.
You have serious elephant's foot
Try running the bed a little cooler and doing a temp tower to see if your extrusion temp is too high.
pastera
NES Member
I just mounted a Sprite extruder on my Tronxy X5SA Pro.
Haven't run it through its paces yet as I just got the firmware done and haven't gotten a response back from Creality on the thermistor temperature data (might have to create an accurate table to 315° myself)
I had to modify the supplied backplate and design a couple of parts but the swap is pretty easy.
you'll need to recompile marlin and swap the value for that:
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 11
until i did that i would consistently get an error as soon as temperature would run above 295 deg somewhat.
also needs to be added - that table data induced error will be specifically misspelled as 'Nozzle is too higherature".
with the type 11 it seems to accept thermistor table up to 310-315. the thermistor itself i think should be good up to 500, but the table data is not, and i did not dig into it more.
also i need to note - when it was fresh i noticed that the temp delta between the bed and extruder thermistor readings, it was around a degree and a half when new, but after it worked for a while the delta disappeared, and now idle readings match precisely. like right now it reads 15.9C from both on idle - it is in the colder part of the basement.
i got a $108 reject ender V2 deal from the comgrow and an another sprite kit for $120 - a sprite with the cr touch sensor, as they work really neat together. the cheapest sale on sprite alone that i saw was $85. there was probably no real need for the cr touch, but, it is just a nice to have feature.
will see how it will end up. if no issues will be there - it is an amazing combo for $228.
i looked around for something like that tronxy, for a bigger box frame, but it does not seem to be anything out there for close to a $100, and i did not want to spend more, as i do not really need a 300mm chamber for anything i play with. and sprite pushes out filament crazy fast and very well in the V2 platform as well. on ebay those bigger box tronxies go for close to $400 that is just plain silly.
ps. was the stock sprite ribbon cable long enough for the tronxy frame?
pps. and that, for sprite - seems to be what my unit needs, after calibration tryouts:
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 405.5, 424.9 }
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and if you still did not get to octoprint - this box was on sale with an additional $5 coupon, i got another one for $30 shiped. cannot beat it.
Amazon product ASIN B0B461KB7VView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B461KB7V
then follow this tutorial - it worked flawlessly for me. the only trick is to get a correct t95 box. i did not do klipper, though, do not see any need for it with new marlin.
3dpandme.com
and should work with this camera:
Amazon product ASIN B07BPM9SFLView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BPM9SFL
Amazon product ASIN B0B461KB7VView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B461KB7V
then follow this tutorial - it worked flawlessly for me. the only trick is to get a correct t95 box. i did not do klipper, though, do not see any need for it with new marlin.
Tutorial: T95 Mini TV Box Klipper Install
The T95 Mini is an android TV box. Be careful when sourcing one as there are a lot out there that actually use the H616 processor and currently the android tv boxes using this processor don’t…
3dpandme.com
Amazon product ASIN B07BPM9SFLView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BPM9SFL
pastera
NES Member
I picked up the X5SA Pro for well under $300 so it was a too good to pass up deal. I was interested mostly in the speed since I can print at 150mm/sec pretty easily but the extra bed space helps a lot.you'll need to recompile marlin and swap the value for that:
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 11
until i did that i would consistently get an error as soon as temperature would run above 295 deg somewhat.
also needs to be added - that table data induced error will be specifically misspelled as 'Nozzle is too higherature".
with the type 11 it seems to accept thermistor table up to 310-315. the thermistor itself i think should be good up to 500, but the table data is not, and i did not dig into it more.
also i need to note - when it was fresh i noticed that the temp delta between the bed and extruder thermistor readings, it was around a degree and a half when new, but after it worked for a while the delta disappeared, and now idle readings match precisely. like right now it reads 15.9C from both on idle - it is in the colder part of the basement.
i got a $108 reject ender V2 deal from the comgrow and an another sprite kit for $120 - a sprite with the cr touch sensor, as they work really neat together. the cheapest sale on sprite alone that i saw was $85. there was probably no real need for the cr touch, but, it is just a nice to have feature.
will see how it will end up. if no issues will be there - it is an amazing combo for $228.
i looked around for something like that tronxy, for a bigger box frame, but it does not seem to be anything out there for close to a $100, and i did not want to spend more, as i do not really need a 300mm chamber for anything i play with. and sprite pushes out filament crazy fast and very well in the V2 platform as well. on ebay those bigger box tronxies go for close to $400 that is just plain silly.
ps. was the stock sprite ribbon cable long enough for the tronxy frame?
pps. and that, for sprite - seems to be what my unit needs, after calibration tryouts:
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 405.5, 424.9 }
The sprite cable is plenty long enough but the following needs to be fixed
1 - both fan connectors are reversed for the tronxy board
2 - the sprite cable had individual wires with ferrules for the thermistor so those need to be cut off and a connector installed.
3 - the ribbon cable wires need to be separated back further for all of the connections to easily reach.
4 - I used the existing x-limit switch wire and the BL touch cables I installed instead of adding connections to use the ribbon.
I'm using thermistor type 11 but I'm pretty sure it isn't very accurate for the sprite thermistor. As time permits I'm going to hook up a thermocouple and map every 10°C from 150->300.
The included thermistor cannot get to 500°C - the resistance curve flattens out around 270-280 and doesn't change much above 300°C. Take a look at the header (.h) file defining the thermistor.
If you want to hit 500 look at a PT1000 that will go to 500°C or, even better, add a K type thermocouple and SPI interface.
Once I remap the thermistor, I'll PM you the file to include in your firmware if you care about absolute temperature values (not really a concern unless you have multiple printers that you share filament properties between)
The steps/mm on the tronxy are 2x that of the Creality boards.
pastera
NES Member
I'm looking at a Libre Le Potato board so that I can use the GPIO to run relays to turn the printer on/off and eventually enclosure heaters.and if you still did not get to octoprint - this box was on sale with an additional $5 coupon, i got another one for $30 shiped. cannot beat it.
Amazon product ASIN B0B461KB7VView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B461KB7V
then follow this tutorial - it worked flawlessly for me. the only trick is to get a correct t95 box. i did not do klipper, though, do not see any need for it with new marlin.
and should work with this camera:Tutorial: T95 Mini TV Box Klipper Install
The T95 Mini is an android TV box. Be careful when sourcing one as there are a lot out there that actually use the H616 processor and currently the android tv boxes using this processor don’t…
Amazon product ASIN B07BPM9SFLView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BPM9SFL
