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1911 Malfunction/What the F?

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I was at the range this morning with my S&W 1911. After putting my last 100 rounds of CCI Blazer through it yesterday I ran up to WalMart this morning to pick up some white box as it is the closest place for me to buy ammo. After about 50 or so rounds the gun started firing in two shot bursts. I mean one trigger pull two rounds down range. The times it didn't fire 2 at a time it would fire one like it was supposed to but wouldn't have enough recoil to re-cock the hammer. The final 16 rounds went through without any problems. A little history, I've put 750 rounds of CCI Blazer through it without any issue whatsoever. Today was the first time I've used anything different. Anyone shed any light on this for me, because I have no idea.
 
I saw this in an IDPA match a couple of months ago, and I think it was a broken spring, but I'm not positive. Call S&W immediately.
 
It's not the ammo.

Something is up with the gun... sounds like you have a hammer/sear problem
or something.

If it's an S+W, get the gun to them and they will make it right. I would
immediately cease using the gun until it gets fixed. It could get worse and
go full auto on you.

-Mike
 
I had the same problem with my S&W 1911.
I had to send it back three friggin times over the course of MONTHS until they finally got it right. The only good things about their service is that it didn't cost me a dime, otherwise it sucked. I would say your better off getting a smith to put in a new FCG and do a trigger job, it would be faster and produce a better more reliable gun. I consider getting a Smith to fix new guns just part of doing business, it beats having it worked on by someone who isn't being paid to do it right. I may be jaded because more then half the handguns I bought have needed to go back to the factory. I am strill struggling to find a Smith I can trust after a mixed experience with a local one. /Rant off

They make a great base gun, especially in MA, but any new S&W 1911 that I buy is getting a new trigger, hammer, disconnector, sear, barrel crown (it comes with essentialy none), and I will get the barrel fitted properly (Mine was breaking links left and right, lower lugs were impacting the frame... BAD JUJU). I certainly wouldn't carry one without getting the gun worked over, not that I carry 1911s anyways.

http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=3608
http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=4245
 
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Thanks for the input. I called S&W earlier today and they are sending me a prepaid label to ship it back. Hopefully it won't happen again. I'll keep all posted anyhow.
 
I have seen a 1911 go full auto on a military range when someone droped the slide. It got exciting!
"Series 70 works just fine the way JMB designed it" If I had a nickle for everytime I heard that...
I really have to wonder what is wrong with the 1911 FCG design. I have never heard of a Sig, S&W Third Gen auto, Glock (quasi DAO not fair to compare but still..), H&K etc. going full auto or doubling/tripling. I know part of the problem is that people futz with 1911s more often, but people futz with Sig's too and the worst I have heard of is it going to half cock.
 
It's not the ammo.

Something is up with the gun... sounds like you have a hammer/sear problem
or something.

If it's an S+W, get the gun to them and they will make it right. I would
immediately cease using the gun until it gets fixed. It could get worse and
go full auto on you.

-Mike

He's right. I had my Kel Tec Sub 2000 do the same thing, 2 and 3 shot bursts. Turned out to be a bad sear. They replaced it and a few other parts and it functions fine now.
 
"Series 70 works just fine the way JMB designed it" If I had a nickle for everytime I heard that...
I really have to wonder what is wrong with the 1911 FCG design. I have never heard of a Sig, S&W Third Gen auto, Glock (quasi DAO not fair to compare but still..), H&K etc. going full auto or doubling/tripling. I know part of the problem is that people futz with 1911s more often, but people futz with Sig's too and the worst I have heard of is it going to half cock.

I'm not sure what it is with the 1911. I think it is if the sear is destroyed
enough there is nothing for the hammer to latch upon, so basically it wails
back and forth at will? And without an FP safety, im guessing there isnt
anything to stop the process either once you let go of the trigger, so the
gun would just fire until it ran out of ammo if the sear was obliterated on
one pull.

A few weeks ago the entire edge of my sear broke off in my pin gun. The
gun did not go FA... it just would get stuck at the half cock position. The
internals are set up like a series 70. No FA, but the gun wouldn't cock
anymore. So I'm not sure if perhaps that whatever was left of my sear
was enough to catch the half cock, or if something just got caught in
it.

I think in some cases quality of parts is to blame... 1911 land is loaded
with MIM stuff nowadays, and IMO, even though all MIM isnt bad, some of the parts that are out there lead one to wonder...

I've also busted a sear spring on an HK USP... basically did the same
thing... except the gun would still fire as basically a DAO... that part
of the sear spring basically pushed on the single action hammer catch....
strange thing.

-Mike
 
It is the disconnector, the little part that sticks up through the frame under the slide.
It's a common problem on some older 1911's when they wear out or break.

Easy fix, it's a 4.00 part.
 
Finally got my piece back. S&W replaced the main spring and draw rod. The gun came back really dirty but with and extra magazine. Score! I haven't had a chance to take it to the range but hopefully I will have time this weekend. It was gone 3 1/2 weeks in total.
 
I have 3 S&Ws counting the Model 520 I bought last week. No 1911s though. One of them, a Model 22A, just got back from SW Maine after I had to send it in because the rear retaining lug on the barrel assembly snapped off. The other, a Sigma (original version) just arrived at SW Springfield for extractor replacement after less than 350 lifetime rounds fired.

Both are great guns, I love the 22A over the Ruger Mk III and the Sigma shoots fine otherwise, but these nagging quality control issues are annoying. Hopefully the 520 doesn't have any problems.
 
draw rod? What's that? Part of the S&W firing pin safety?
I don't think so, he is probably referring to the hammer strut, nothing called the draw rod in a 1911 AFAIK. I cannot for the life of me figure out how either the FP safety or the hammer strut could cause doubles. Ditto with the mainspring. They might replace the sear spring. If they shot it alot as he described then the problem was probably fixed correctly. The problems occur when they don't bother testing...
 
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I had a Browning 1903 in 9mm Long, that fired in full auto, do to a worn sear and/or disconnector. It was a simple cheap fix. It was unnerving the first time it went auto, thought it was kinda fun too. But, fun aside it is too dangerous to fire it with that problem since it can damage the gun, or cause a massive structual failure and injure the shooter. The gun is not made to withstand the pressures of full auto.
 
Muffler bearing and Johnson Rod. Anyhow. After 100 rounds down range yesterday no problems. I'm planning on putting at least another hundred through it tomorrow so we shall see.
 
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