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Which 1911 for starting bullseye?

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OK, I'm getting ready to make the 1911 jump.

My primary use for this gun would be for bullseye, not as a race gun. I'm assuming I'll need to have it accurized and a trigger job at least.

What is a good starting point? Is paying for a SW1911DK worth it if I'm gong to have it reworked anyway? I've seen some say start with a cheap 1911 and give it to a good pistol smith to tighten it up and accurize it.

Are there stock guns out there that are reasonable for bullseye that I could shoot for a year or two before sending out for accurizing?

Are the "match" barrels offered by some really match barrel quality, or are they just better than their standard?

And finally, what should I expect to pay to have a:
1) GOOD trigger job
2) Accurizing job (Barstow/Kart Barrel, slide/frame refit, etc.)

I know that's allot of Q's. I'm hoping you guys can set me straight before I do something stupid (like build my own, which for some reason I'm itching to do...)

Thanks,
Matt
 
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A standard rack S&W 1911 with adjustable sights would be a good start at reasonable money. Add the extras and gunsmithing later as you like.
 
I would talk to Greg Derr, he is on this board, an excellent gunsmith and knows a thing or two about bullseye shooting[grin]


He can set you straight about the best way to go
 
I would talk to competitors at the matches you want to join and see what they use and then call a gunsmith and see what they like to work on.

The 1911DK is really nice but I think the things that you want for a Bullseye gun, the light trigger and the fit barrel, are things you could add to an off the shelf SW1911 for less money. Take the rest of the money saved and invest in light accurate reloads and practice.

On the other hand, a Caspian built from the ground up is sweet...
 
Go with a Caspian frame and slide, the fitted set. Use a Kart barrel. Decide if you want to be able to shoot it in leg matches, the rules are a bit more restrictive for that. If you don't want to shoot leg matches, get a beavertail, checker or stipple the front strap, checkered mainspring housing. Checker 20 LPI, not 30. That will about do it. Build the gun right the first time, it's far less expensive than trying to "cheap out" on it.
One other thing. If you want to shoot bullseye, have a gunsmith that shoots bullseye build it. That suggestion goes for what ever "game" you might want to shoot.
 
On the question of match barrels they are made to tighter specs
I have and had several bar sto barrels mostly 9 mm and all dimensions are held to match grade spec bores were held to .3555 dia 1 in 16 twist shot lead very well.
Fired cases will easily slip back into chamber after firing and all his barrels are stainless steel a little pricey yes but IMHO worth the cost
I also had my Beretta 96 trigger done by clyinder and slide very plesed with the work sa pull is 4 lbs da is redced h smoother pull
 
For price and performance I like the S&W 1911. The DK is a great model but it is not for me, I would rather have my gunsmith make my 1911 the way I want it.
 
Cross-X said:
How could you go wrong with the DK?

Great gun, practically sponsored by Smith, what with all the extras you get so inexpensively.

That's what I suggest that you do.

+100. I love mine. The only thing I want to do is a hi-viz front sight.
 
Moderator said:
For price and performance I like the S&W 1911. The DK is a great model but it is not for me, I would rather have my gunsmith make my 1911 the way I want it.

What model would you suggest as a base?
 
I would suggest a good quality gun in a fairly basic model for versatility. You might want to try something a little more exciting, like USPSA, IDPA or pin & plate shooting, before committing to Bullseye.

Start with a gun that will let you shoot in a variety of events before deciding.
 
I shoot a base model SW 1911 for USPSA, I have found it accurate and reliable. It has had alittle work done on the trigger to make it alittle nicer

I would recommend SKU: item_108284, it has adjustable sights and ambi safety,
then add parts as needed
 
matt said:
What model would you suggest as a base?

The regular adjustable sighted model. Either one you'd want a trigger job and the eventual aftermarket barrel. The DK has enhancements but IMHO they are geared toward action shoot (magwell, ambis, flat trigger). The PC1911 is a step above with a superior fit and trigger (ironically the only one I've seen was at Santurri's because it wouldn't feed SWCs. It was gorgeous nonetheless), but for that price ($2k+) you could have a Caspian based gun built and ransom rest tested.

I would be interested in seeing how one of my IPSC guns would stand up to bullseye standards. I know they were built slightly looser but I've benched some really small groups with even the 9mm Clark barrel and WWB.
 
matt said:
What model would you suggest as a base?

The question is, What model do you like? I would take a ride to your local gun shop and see the different models. I personally like the stainless models. You should hold a few, see which ones are too heavy or too light. I wouldn't buy it on spot, write down the info on it and ask around. You also may want to ask the salesperson what they recommend for 1911 that will be built up. Wouldn't hurt either to talk to a good gunsmith such as Dave Santurri or Greg Derr.
 
Moderator said:
The question is, What model do you like? I would take a ride to your local gun shop and see the different models. I personally like the stainless models. You should hold a few, see which ones are too heavy or too light. I wouldn't buy it on spot, write down the info on it and ask around. You also may want to ask the salesperson what they recommend for 1911 that will be built up. Wouldn't hurt either to talk to a good gunsmith such as Dave Santurri or Greg Derr.

I finally spent some real time looking through the S&W web site to distinguish the different models. They sure don't make it easy...

From what I've seen there the stainless version with adjustable sights seems the right one for what I'm after. It has the checkering on the front strap where the blued one doesn't. I do like the look of the blued version better though...

I've sent a PM to Greg. Someone sent me his email address a couple of months ago, but I seem to have lost it. Hopefully he'll check in.

Tomorrow it's down to 4Seasons to poke and prod a little...

Thanks everyone for the responses. I'll let you know how this progresses.

Matt
 
Matt, great questions. I have no advice for a 1911, the experts here
have given you that, great advice.

Here's my approach, go the the club where you intend to shoot and talk
with the members of the pistol team, find out what they are shooting,
ask to shoot some of their guns and get a feel of "what feels good in your
hand and how it handles" I think this would be a good base line to move
forward from. You might be suprised what some guys are shooting and
how well they shoot. A lot of it is you and not the gun.

JimB
 
Hey, Jim - great advice. Matt, there's an IDPA practice next Thursday night at Riverside, and I know that there are a lot of .45's that show up there (well, with their owners, that is). I'm sure you can try out a few. Heck, I'll bring two you can try! (well, a 1911 and a Para P12, anyway - it's a compact, hi-cap 1911, sorta).

Ross
 
I spoke with my pal Greg Derr earlier this evening, and one of the things he said was that it would be a good idea to get a carbon steel gun rather than a stainless one like the S&W DK 1911.

Greg said that carbon steel frames and slides can be fitted tighter than stainless guns can be. He said the DK model is a great gun for action pistol events like IDPA or IPSC, but it probably cannot be tuned to shoot consistent bullseye accuracy, say, two inches or less at twenty-five meters.

Feel free to PM "Greg Derr" and I'm sure he'll answer any questions you may have.

Darius
 
Cross-X said:
I spoke with my pal Greg Derr earlier this evening, and one of the things he said was that it would be a good idea to get a carbon steel gun rather than a stainless one like the S&W DK 1911.

Greg said that carbon steel frames and slides can be fitted tighter than stainless guns can be. He said the DK model is a great gun for action pistol events like IDPA or IPSC, but it probably cannot be tuned to shoot consistent bullseye accuracy, say, two inches or less at twenty-five meters.

Feel free to PM "Greg Derr" and I'm sure he'll answer any questions you may have.

Darius

Already done! He told me the same thing. Thanks for asking for me though! I dropped down to FS today to handle a few different models. I'm getting' the fever...
 
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