UZI 9mm Semi-Auto Build Thread


NES Member
Jun 30, 2009
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I'll be building this - UZI Carbine, 9mm, 16" barrel with a permanently attached Type 4 wood stock:


Final Result

Some History: *UZI

I've been wanting a 9mm pistol carbine for some time, but none of the available options were very appealing to me. I would really like an H&K, but can't really afford one. A few months ago I started doing research on UZI's and found that there are currently parts kits available, and there are very high quality brand new receivers to build on. Building an UZI from a parts kit will probably cost as much (or more depending on options you choose) than buying a new Vector Arms UZI, but what is the fun in that? [wink] This is my kind of recycling. Some of the other reasons for building an UZI - cheap pre-ban high-cap magazines, 45 ACP conversion options are quick and easy (but not cheap), solid, reliable design, and everyone recognizes the iconic UZI. There are a decent number of parts kits floating around, mostly high quality IMI manufactured stuff from Israel and Germany so get 'em while the getting is good. As I understand it there will be no additional kits imported from IMI so this won't last forever. Currently you can pick up lots of IMI manufactured spare parts on the cheap. And of course, Chuck Norris likes 'em so they must be awesome! [smile]

When doing research I didn't find a complete "this is how you do it" resource, but there is a lot of information out there. I'll try and put everything I learn about the build here for others who are interested. This is going to take a couple of months, I'll update the first post as I go along.

Here is what you can use from the SMG parts kit:

1. Pistol Grip Assy (modified, if it is a semi kit you are all set)
2. Front and Rear Sight assemblies
3. Top Cover Assembly (modified, if it is a semi kit you are all set)
4. Top Cover Catch and Spring
5. Barrel Nut Lock and Spring
6. Barrel Nut
7. Bolt Recoil Spring Assembly (remove the fiber flap)
8. Mounting Lug (nut) and Screw for stock (modified lug and stock)
9. Pistol and handguard grips (maybe or replace with US made grips for 922r compliance)
10. Sear (modified or replace with US made Semi-auto sear for 922r compliance)

NOTE: You will probably need a forward sling swivel and rivet pin which typically don't come with the kits.

You could remove some of the other parts (like the trunnion and extractor) but US made parts are readily available and not that expensive so I don't see much of a point unless you need an FA trunnion to repair a registered FA gun.

ERRORS OR INCORRECT DATA: I am trying to put a good resource together - If I get a technical detail or data related to the legalities wrong, please PM ME and I'll correct it! This is a build thread, if you want to publicly beat on something buy a cat. (just kidding cat lovers!)

Some important facts about building these from kits (just to answer the simple questions):

* STOCKS - You must modify the stock so it is permanently attached to the gun. Most of the stocks available are quick release type stocks, the stock must be permanently attached to the rifle - i.e., you need tools to remove the stock. This looks pretty easy, lots of people have already figured this out and I'll post details and pics when I get to that point.

* Folding Stock in Massachusetts - YOU CAN'T DO IT! You can't use a folding stock unless it is a pre-ban rifle. This uses a new receiver and is considered a new gun, fixed stocks only.

* 922r compliance - you have to comply so you need to swap out enough foreign made parts to meet the requirement of 10 MAX foreign made parts from "the list". I will post a table here with what I think, if there are any issues with my assumptions, PM me and we will get it corrected. It looks to me like there are 15 recognized 922r Parts so I need to replace 5 of them to bring the total down to 10.

Correction: According to the latest word from BATF, the UZI has 13 922(r) parts from the "list of 20". So you need only swap out three (3) of the 922(r) parts. The welded receiver and trunnion count for two, and the barrel counts for one so you are done at that point if you want to keep the rest.

I am replacing the following with US made parts - this brings my total parts compliance well under the maximum 10

(1) Frames, receivers, receiver castings, forgings, or stampings
(2) Barrels
(4) Mounting blocks (trunnions)
(6) Bolts

-------------------You can stop there if you want. I'll also be swapping out the following for US made parts. You can't use the SMG bolt anyway.

(13) Sears <<< you can modify the SMG sear to work with a semi-auto receiver if you want, it's OK due to the parts count.

Which brings the total number of foreign parts to eight (8), two less then the maximum 10.

Remaining Foreign Parts from the list of 20.

(8) Operating rods
(10) Trigger housings
(11) Triggers
(14) Disconnectors
(15) Buttstocks
(16) Pistol grips
(18) Magazine bodies
(19) Followers
(20) Floorplates

Uzi Talk Article Regarding 922r Compliance for a Norinco Uzi NOTE: The Norinco conversion is different than building with a US made receiver.

* FULL AUTO PARTS - if you get the full auto SMG bolt or SMG barrel in your parts kit you can't use them. Period. You can't modify it unless you want to be a felon. Just trade it in (DandD sales and other uzi parts dealers will give you a credit for the SMG bolt, or SMG Barrel if you get one) You also can't use the SMG trunnion from the parts kit. The BATF won't like you if you do that.

* Short Barrel - it is easy to swap out barrels on an UZI. Unless your gun is a registered SBR, you can't install a short operational barrel, don't even think about it!

* Lug Attachment Pin - The UZI SMG uses an 8mm lug attachment pin. The Semi-Auto versions use a 9mm lug attachment pin. This is so the Semi-auto pistol grip will not fit an SMG receiver. The SMG parts kits have giggle switches, so unless you really want a stint in prison on your resume, you need to block the selector switch from going to the full auto position. You weld a small steel plate ~0.050-0.070" thick in the lower that lets you slide the selector to the semi position, but it can't go to auto. I'll show pictures later.

* Nodak Spud Receiver - I am using the pre-welded receiver. A non-welded receiver is $100, and the weld parts are $100. The jig welded receiver is $220 so the risk of effing it up isn't worth it to me. If I had one to reference I would give it a shot, but I don't so I am pressing the easy button.

This is going to take a couple of months so I'll keep updating the original post as I go along.

Part 1 - lets get started...

The kit was full of crud from the torching and some type of mystery oil.

I cleaned it using Brake cleaner and a brush. This type of brake cleaner is safe for the plastic handguards, not all of it is friendly to plastic so beware.

Time to remove the rear sights you just need a small screwdriver. It unscrews and comes right off.




I put it in a baggie with some oil to keep it safe.

Now to remove the paw (ratchet) from the cocking lug. Remove the spring from the cocking lug (underneath) and let it hang, it just lifts out of an angled slot. Remove the screw and the whole thing comes apart.

Here is the cocking lug. The paw pops right out. I took it out then put it back and I think it is on there backwards, but you get the idea. Once you have the paw out, take out the spring, it just unwraps and with a twist it comes right out.

Here are the removed parts. Easy as pie.

The cocking lug sans paw and spring. Now put it back together.

What it looks like from underneath with the spring back on.

Top view after reassembly.

I sprayed all the cleaned parts with oil and wiped them down to protect them from rusting until I work on them again.

Stay tuned, more to come...


Time for more, tonight we remove the top cover catch and the barrel nut lock!

You will need a small flat head screwdriver. Grab the stub from behind, with your weak hand and put your fingers on top of the leaf spring so when you pry it up it doesn't go flying and you lose the spring. depress the catch with your weak hand thumb while you slowly pry up one corner of the leaf as shown. It should come up and then you can remove the leaf spring, coil spring, and top cover catch. Easy when you see pictures!



That wasn't too hard was it? I keep small baggies handy to put the pieces into when they come off since there are a number of very small pieces. I would recommend doing something similar.

Now to remove the barrel nut lock from under the front sight. This looks like it was put there prior to welding, and there is no way to get it out, but fret not! It comes out! Many people apparently break the spring so be careful.

It consists of the lock and a small coil spring. Using your weak hand, hold the front stub in your palm and pinch the front of the lock so you can pull it while pushing down firmly on the rear spring lock with a medium sized flat head screwdriver. Push the lock down to get it under the slot in the front sight, while pushing it forward and out with the screwdriver. Maintain the pinch grip and pull it slowly out making sure not to lose the small spring. Put it in a baggie.





Cleaning everything well with brake cleaner then hosing it down with penetrating oil was a good move since it was a lot neater to work with, and the moving parts all seem to move a lot better.

I ordered a front sight tool since I don't want to hack up the front sights, and you need it to reinstall them. Removal of the bits is going well so far!

Tune in next time for more exciting UZI fun!

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

Part 5 - Receiver arrives

Part 6 - Welding the FA Blocking Bar

Part 7 - Bolt

Part 8 - Wooden Stock Disassembly and Refinish

Part 9 - Permanently Attach Wooden Stock / Mods

Part 10 - StormWerkz Rail Installation (Aimpoint)

Test Fire

Finishing - Grit Blast, Parkerize, Gunkote - Final Assembly
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Nice job. I'm trying to save up to pretty much do the same thing. The day I went to NDS to buy the welded receiver & SA bolt they went out of stock. Oh well, gives me a little more time to save up to do it all at once instead of piecemeal. Keep us posted as I'll be using yours for reference.
very nice, also looking forward to seeing the end of the project and so i can live vicariously through you. eventually i may do another NES build... after the wedding... or else! [laugh]
The 11/20 issue of Shotgun News has part 1 of a detailed write up on building an Uzi.

Between this thread and reading half of the article I was already thinking about ordering parts.[thinking]
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lol. Unless you are welding the receiver it is probably one of the easiest kits to turn back into a working gun. I am highly impressed with the simplicity of it and can understand why the UZI earned such a strong reputation for reliability.

The 11/20 issue of Shotgun News has part 1 of a detailed write up on building an Uzi.

Between this thread and reading half of the article I was already thinking about ordering parts.[thinking]
UZI 9mm Semi-Auto Kit Build Type A Front Sight Removal

I received the front sight tool and removed the front sight from the parts kit stub. You may be able to do this without the tool, but I think you would hack up the sights, and you need the tool to set windage and elevation again when you build the gun later so it is worth $16 to get it.

Here it is showing the outer sleeve on the sight. The outer sleeve loosens and tightens the lock nut. The inner sleeve (T handle) locks onto the sight post, this is used to move the sight up and down for elevation adjustment and left to right for windage. Then you use the outer sleeve to lock it down.

I loosened the nut with the outer sleeve, then turned out the sight post with the T handle. There are three pieces to the front sight, the post, the locking nut, and a spring washer.

UZI 9mm Semi-Auto Kit Build Lower Disassemble, tweak selector and install SA sear

My selector is really difficult to move, you need two hands to go from Semi to Safe, so after doing some research and asking some questions on Uzi Talk I decided to disassemble the lower and fix it. I also received the semi-auto sear and I wanted to swap it out and compare the SA to the FA sear. You can use the FA sear but it needs to be modified. Damned if I could find any specifics as to do it so I wanted to compare them and see what the difference is. So here goes.

Remove handles by screwing out the two screws.

Remove the other side being careful not to loose the grip safety spring. Then remove the grip safety spring by reaching in there and pulling it out of the recess on the body or the safety (these are shallow blind counter bored holes)

Using the highly specialized [wink] UZI dissasembly tool, pry the sear springs from their holes on both sides of the sear to release them.

Then push out the sear pin. One side of the pins are slotted since you have to orient the flats on them, push from the other side. I found that turning the pin with the super UZI tool initially while I pushed from the other side worked well, then just pull it out rotating it back and forth.

The sear, sear spring and sear pin.

Here is the highly specialized UZI dissasembly tool referenced earlier. Put a deep notch in a small screwdriver. I've seen this proclaimed by UZI-nauts all over the interwebs, and it's true, you need one of these. It took all of 2 minutes with a dremel because I had to find a thin grinding bit.

So use the super tool to release the trigger spring arms as shown below. You may notice that the sear is in this picture, but I just took it out, WTF[shocked]? Well, the original pic was so blurry I took it again after I put everything back together because you have to push down on the spring arms on the side of the "keeper" spring on the disconnector exactly as indicated or you can't get them out. Push down and to the side to release the spring arms.

So now your lower should look like this.

The trigger pin pushed right out. Remove the trigger/disconnector stop, trigger spring.

Getting kind of sparse in there. Time to remove the grip safety, it lifts right out from the top.


And now the target of this effort, the selector spring, selector bar, and selector switch.

I couldn't budge the selector bar so I moved the selector between safe and semi so the spring detent wasn't in a grove, then I could pry up the bar. It wasn't that easy because that spring was really pushing hard against the selector bar. That is why it was so difficult to move. Once the bar is pulled up, the selector knob falls off. Using the UZI disassembly tool, I pried the spring from groves in the receiver that hold it in place.

A bit of friendly persuasion with my thumb and a couple of rounds of putting it back in fixed the difficult selector problem. Time to put it back together.

I'll add the reassembly pics soon...
Nobody really has a complete kit, but it isn't hard to find the pieces. I don't know how long the parts kits are going to last since they aren't being imported any longer, however they made 1-2 million of them.

If you are interested I can tell you where I got my parts from.

sorry for perhaps a silly question but where would a person get a complete parts kit to do this project?
UZI 9mm Semi-Auto Kit Build MODS Needed

If you got an SMG parts kit like I did you have to modify some of the components to convert it to semi-auto for your build. These are pretty easy mods, with the most difficult being welding in the lower. Note: FA = full-auto, SA = Semi-Auto

Mods needed:

1) Top Cover - remove ratchet paw and ratchet spring -- see first post in this thread.

2) Remove fiber/plastic pad from recoil spring

This is really easy to do. When you buy your SA Bolt, striker and buffer, you need to add the recoil rod/spring. To modify the FA recoil/spring you just remove the fiber/plastic pad at the end. The end of the recoil spring will sit in a polymer buffer block in the back of the receiver.

Here is what the pad looks like:

I just cut it with some wire cutters (blurry pic but you get the point):

Once you cut it it comes right off. It is ready for the assembly at this point.

3) Weld a selector block in the lower to permanently prevent the selector switch from being moved into the FA position. I've also seen just a built up welded dot there as well. I'll post some pics of the modded lower once I weld it.

Below is the stripped lower showing in Red where you would weld in a blocking bar. I marked the lower with line where the semi-auto position would be you can see it just to the right of the red block. The plate sits under the sear so it has to be thin enough to clear.

4) Modify the FA Sear or Purchase SA sear.
If you are using the FA sear, you need to modify it to work with a SA bolt. You can also purchase a SA sear, which is a lot easier. It also counts towards 922r compliance. I looked for a long time and didn't find any how-to info on what to modify that was all that helpful so I purchased an SA sear and compared them. I never found any info on-line that shows the differences clearly so I documented it a bit better, for anyone interested in doing the mod.

The FA sear is on the left, the SA sear on the right. The only difference between the two is that the top of the sear (bottom in the picture) is notched on the SA version as shown in the pictures. Everything else is the same. This wouldn't be a difficult mod to do. I also measured it (semi-rough) to get an idea about how much material is coming off. The notch is greater than 90 degrees, maybe 95-100 degrees.

Here is a better picture showing the notches in the SA (left) sear vs the FA (right) sear:








5) Permanent stock attachment
The stock needs to be permanently attached. Somebody figured out how to use the existing hardware to bypass the QD lever and attach the wood or folding stock. I can't do this until I actually have the receiver since the mod requires milling or grinding down the tapped lug thickness and modifying the stock mounting bracket. There is a great thread here on UziTalk that shows some pictures. I will post pics of my mods once I have a receiver to take dimensions, or figure it out using the rear stub of the parts kit receiver.

6) Bayonet lug - the receivers come with a bayo lug, yea I know, but if you live in MA you have to remove it before you assemble the rifle. I am just going to mill off the forward part of the bayo lug with the tabs because you need the back part of it to mount the forearm grips.

Parts almost ready for installation. There are currently some original IMI pistol grips circa 1965 new in package available. I picked up a set and am very glad I did, they are a lot nicer than the US made replacement grips so those are going on once done. Here are the parts, waiting for the receiver to arrive.

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Well, my receiver is finally on the way, and I should be able to pick it up next week! Unfortunately I'll have to wait till next month for the bolt assembly.

While waiting i've been busy putting together a parkerizing setup and building a spray booth/curing oven - I'll post threads on both. The receiver is in the raw so I'm going to park it and finish it with Gun Kote. Stay Tuned!
would you mind giving a cost approximation and a list of where the parts came from?

I'm |-| close to thinking I want to do this.. [smile]
I've put together the list of parts with sources. If anyone would like it please PM me with your email addy and I'll send it over.

would you mind giving a cost approximation and a list of where the parts came from?

I'm |-| close to thinking I want to do this.. [smile]
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Got the Nodak Spud receiver - pics

Well I picked up the receiver yesterday, I have to say that the workmanship is top notch. Nodak Spud and Mckay (they stamp the receiver) do excellent work! The welding is first rate.

I am going to grit blast the receiver then parkerize and paint it with Gun-Kote. I don't think I'll have time this weekend, probably next week though. I'll post pics of all of the finishing steps. The bolt is supposed to be done in a couple of weeks.

Stay tuned!








Just got my receiver yesterday starting the same build awsome workmenship on the receiver. Need to get some more parts like the barrel and semi auto sear and will be able to test fire.
!!! i'm excited so i can only imagine what you guys must be feeling.

either of you attend the manchester gun show early on? the tall guy running around in the porsche shoot shirt and underarmour screaming ANYONE GOT A WOOD UZI STOCK was of course me since umlaut had a decent quality uzi for sale for around eight bills with all the bells and whistles, if i got the stock i could have taken it home right then and there. i hate massachusetts.
I have an extra wood stock modified and ready to install. If you can still get it you can have it!

!!! i'm excited so i can only imagine what you guys must be feeling.

either of you attend the manchester gun show early on? the tall guy running around in the porsche shoot shirt and underarmour screaming ANYONE GOT A WOOD UZI STOCK was of course me since umlaut had a decent quality uzi for sale for around eight bills with all the bells and whistles, if i got the stock i could have taken it home right then and there. i hate massachusetts.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
excuse me while i go spaz out.

i am sure umlaut sold that thing, and even if they didn't i couldn't afford the thing anymore due to some hospital trips last week and final expenses for my father (RIP).
I am looking forward to seeing your end product. I am also in the same boat as you are waiting on a bolt and striker but did get some other parts and mags. Are you getting the bolt from the same place that your receiver came from?
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