Shooter's Choice High-Tech Grease?

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How many of you use this stuff? The guy at the gun shop recommended this, plus break-free for cleaning. I just got both my guns, and haven't had to clean them yet (they were both cleaned by their previous owners before I got them).
Any opinions on this product or recommendations for others?
Thanks,
Jeremy
 

PaulD

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For lubricating the slides on my 1911 and Sig 229 and 226, I use this:

http://www.rei.com/product/785410

8425c896-9b1e-4564-bc9e-f80a5574ab3d.jpg


I had it for my bicycle anyway so I tried it. It's basically lithium grease and the little grease gun lays down a nice, fine line of grease on the tracks. The grease is pretty easy to clean as I just wipe it off with a rag and put more on. It also seems to dampen recoil a bit. I also use the same stuff for the bolt on my M1A.

Bruce Gray recommends grease for that purpose and he certainly knows his stuff: http://grayguns.com/
 

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I started out using Mobil 1 synthetic oil and white lithium grease on the slides of my Sig. Seemed to work fine. I figured, why take a chance and went to dedicated gun products. I now use a product made by Slip 2000. The oil is called Extreme Weapons Lube (EWL) and the grease is called Extreme Weapons Grease (EWG). All I can say is that there is no wear showing on the Sig after over 1000 rounds. Hope the stuff is as good as they say.

Link: http://www.slip2000.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=S
 

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For Oil, I use Mobil1 or FP10, All other oil seem to burn off during practice sessions.

I've been thinking about using motor oil as a lube for my AKs and ARs. I can remember the Army giving us a mix of motor oil and anti freeze a few times in a few cases where it was below 20º(f), it didnt seem to bog the rifles down and worked fine. whats your take on it? Mobil1 a good choice?
 
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I've been thinking about using motor oil as a lube for my AKs and ARs. I can remember the Army giving us a mix of motor oil and anti freeze a few times in a few cases where it was below 20º(f), it didnt seem to bog the rifles down and worked fine. whats your take on it? Mobil1 a good choice?

Mobil1 synthetic is great. Its also cheap, I use whatever is left over from oil changes
I use it on my race guns, shotguns and AR, it doesn't burn off like other oils, stays put pretty will and makes cleaning easy. I don't see the point of using anything else.
 

Dench

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Mobil1 synthetic is great. Its also cheap, I use whatever is left over from oil changes
I use it on my race guns, shotguns and AR, it doesn't burn off like other oils, stays put pretty will and makes cleaning easy. I don't see the point of using anything else.

I'm going to buy a quart and check it out! Thanks.
 

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If it slides, grease it.

If it turns, oil it.

As far as guns go, oil is oil and grease is grease. Spending $ for anything more than a regular grease or oil is a waste of money, considering the amount of movement any gun parts get before you clean it.
 
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If it slides, grease it.

If it turns, oil it.
OK guys. sounds like I need more help here. Educate me.
Specifically which parts get which product? I get that the slide gets grease, but which parts specifically get oil?
Pardon my ignorance, and thanks in advance for the help!
 

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That looks neat Paul... I use Militec-1 grease on every gun I own. I love the stuff. It's tacky - which seems odd for something that lubricates, but it stays put and cleaning is a snap...

The tacky aspect is what keeps it put. Motorcycle chain lube is often formulated like that.

Also, Supermoto does have a point about lithium grease. It does tend to migrate out the back of the slide. However, more than enough stays put to be effective IME and that little grease gun makes application very easy.

When oil is called for, I use motor oil and that usually means Mobil 1 or another synthetic because that's what I have around. However, even conventional motor oil would work very well on a gun. If a conventional motor oil can take the heat and shear forces inside an internal combustion engine, it can deal with the relatively loose tolerances of a gun.
 

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OK guys. sounds like I need more help here. Educate me.
Specifically which parts get which product? I get that the slide gets grease, but which parts specifically get oil?
Pardon my ignorance, and thanks in advance for the help!

What kind of gun are you talking about?
 
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That looks neat Paul... I use Militec-1 grease on every gun I own. I love the stuff. It's tacky - which seems odd for something that lubricates, but it stays put and cleaning is a snap...

I recently started using Militech-1, My AR runs way better with it(Now that its fixed[smile]) I used it on my pistols as well, but have not been to the range to test yet.
 
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OK guys. sounds like I need more help here. Educate me.
Specifically which parts get which product? I get that the slide gets grease, but which parts specifically get oil?
Pardon my ignorance, and thanks in advance for the help!

For the M&P
I put oil on the following
Rails on the frame, 1 drop each
A little on the sear and Trigger bow
a drop on the locking block

The barrel hood, the front end of the barrel, and the lower lugs

The slide rails, a drop down both
the striker face, but not in the striker channel and the firing pin safety



and the guiderod and spring
 
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If it slides, grease it.

If it turns, oil it.

As far as guns go, oil is oil and grease is grease. Spending $ for anything more than a regular grease or oil is a waste of money, considering the amount of movement any gun parts get before you clean it.

I respectfully disagree - especially when it comes to grease. When I purchased my M1A, I was waiting for an M-14 Survival Kit from West Texas Armory. In it was a tube of Militec-1 grease. In the meantime, believing the "grease is grease" principle, I bought some standard automotive grease. It is light years away from being anything close as effective as Militec-1 on a weapon. First, when it heats up, it becomes soft, weeps and does not stay where you put it. This is not the case with Militec-1. It stays put - even under extreme use and excessive time between cleanings. Secondly, it does not offer the protection of Militec on moving parts. If you come to a shoot when I bring my Uzi, a look inside with demonstrate what I am talking about. I bought this gun NIB over 4-years ago and several thousand rounds. There is little sign of wear - the internals are pristine. So too, the wear on my bolt and oprod channel on my M1A. Finish wear was suspended when I started using Militec.

Oil may be one thing, (I still like CLP), but the technology that has gone into products like Militec elevate it to a level above typical garage grease...
 
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For lubricants and/or protectants, I mainly use four. I use CLP or Rem oil, remi dri lube, and Brownells friction defense after I'm done cleaning the parts. I use the friction defense on all the moving parts, barrel interiors and where metal rubs metal. It's a moly-teflone compound and will bond with the metal. Just a drop or two on a q-tip or swab goes a long way. I put it on and let it sit for a few minutes then wipe the excess off with a soft rag. Afterwards I give all the metal a light coat of CLP or Rem oil, remember to avoid the wood with gun oils, and leave just a light coat of oil for protection. Before going to the range I like to wipe down the internals of any semi-auto 22's then give the actions and/or bolts a quick blast of remi-dry lube, it's a spray teflone. I find it will take a lot longer to get "gummy" for lack of a better word then with a liquid lube.
 

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I respectfully disagree - especially when it comes to grease. When I purchased my M1A, I was waiting for an M-14 Survival Kit from West Texas Armory. In it was a tube of Militec-1 grease. In the meantime, believing the "grease is grease" principle, I bought some standard automotive grease. It is light years away from being anything close as effective as Militec-1 on a weapon. First, when it heats up, it becomes soft, weeps and does not stay where you put it. This is not the case with Militec-1. It stays put - even under extreme use and excessive time between cleanings. Secondly, it does not offer the protection of Militec on moving parts. If you come to a shoot when I bring my Uzi, a look inside with demonstrate what I am talking about. I bought this gun NIB over 4-years ago and several thousand rounds. There is little sign of wear - the internals are pristine. So too, the wear on my bolt and oprod channel on my M1A. Finish wear was suspended when I started using Militec.

Oil may be one thing, (I still like CLP), but the technology that has gone into products like Militec elevate it to a level above typical garage grease...

Any grease that is used as a lubricant on a gun should more than adequately do the job for the amount that you or I would use the gun before cleaning. Even if it melts down during use, it turns liquid (oil?) and still would provide adequate lubrication for the normal range style useage.

If you use your weapon like a GI where thousands of rounds are expended before cleaning or are using a FA, I'd agree that there are better alternatives to regular grease. I still maintain that a few hundreds of rounds and then a cleaning, the lubing will be more than adequately covered by regular inexpensive grease.

As to storage, I think it was EC who did study of corrosion occurring with different products a few years back.

I'd like to find that because, if I remember correctly, regular oil was as good as the most expensive stuff. I could be wrong, but I don't think so.

Jim, was that you and if so can you find it?
 
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I used to use "Break Free" on all of my guns with great results. I started to look elsewhere when the cost rose to $6 for four ounces. I settled on synthetic motor oil (5 wt for the 22 target pistols and 20 wt for everything else) because it seemed to be the perfect choice. Actually it is probably overkill as the interior of an internal combustion engine is a much more hostile environmemt than a firearm. Since Break Free had teflon as an additive I added a little superfine moly powder (.3 gr per oz.) to improve my new gun oil. This probably isn't necessary but I had the stuff on hand so I used it. I have been using this mix for several years and it seems to be just as effective as Break Free for a small fraction of the cost.

I don't use a lot of grease on my guns as I feel that oil is usually sufficient. I think a lot of people use grease on their semi auto slides because it takes up some of the slop. I did find a need for grease in my M1A so I tried some automotive synthetic grease and it works great. I added a little moly powder to this grease to give it some added protection. This mix is a dead ringer for Brownells "Action Lube Plus" which goes for $8 per 10 ccs and claims to be a mix of moly powder and synthetic lubricants.

An earlier post mentioned using Break Free as a cleaner. I think this is a mistake due to a misunderstanding. Break free is advertised as a lubricant with cleaning properties, not a cleaner per se. In my experience it is a fine lubricant, but a very expensive and ineffective cleaner. Solvents are much more effective. I use brake parts or carburetor cleaner and then blow the parts offf with compressed air. Fast, effective and relatively inexpensive. I save the expensive cleaners for the bore where they are really needed.
 
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Any grease that is used as a lubricant on a gun should more than adequately do the job for the amount that you or I would use the gun before cleaning. Even if it melts down during use, it turns liquid (oil?) and still would provide adequate lubrication for the normal range style useage.

If you use your weapon like a GI where thousands of rounds are expended before cleaning or are using a FA, I'd agree that there are better alternatives to regular grease. I still maintain that a few hundreds of rounds and then a cleaning, the lubing will be more than adequately covered by regular inexpensive grease.

As to storage, I think it was EC who did study of corrosion occurring with different products a few years back.

I'd like to find that because, if I remember correctly, regular oil was as good as the most expensive stuff. I could be wrong, but I don't think so.

Jim, was that you and if so can you find it?

In the last couple of years have started using "Pro Gold" lube on the semi autos. Have found that it doesn't break down and "dissipate" like a lot of oils, does not clog, and just seems to hang in.

As an experiment, put about 1300 rds. through a Sig 226 that was cleaned and thoroughly lubed with the "Pro Gold". Piece was not cleaned during this period.

No "sluggishness", no FTF or FTE. No problems at all. This was an untouched piece for my experiment. Nothing was added during the interim.

Yup, it was filthy at the end and needed a damn good cleaning, but I found out what I needed to know for my own purposes. [wink]
 
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I've been thinking about using motor oil as a lube for my AKs and ARs. I can remember the Army giving us a mix of motor oil and anti freeze a few times in a few cases where it was below 20º(f), it didnt seem to bog the rifles down and worked fine. whats your take on it? Mobil1 a good choice?

I like it! it's cheap! and it works good. Therefore more money for ammo [smile]
 
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I like it! it's cheap! and it works good. Therefore more money for ammo [smile]

There just might be a difference between combat/field usage, and civilian everyday usage. The two are NOT the same. What works in the "field" is not always the best for what works for normal civilian use. Many factors go into the choice....on the civilian side. [grin]
 
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