Muzzle Brakes Vs. Compensators for AR

Well just to play devil's advocate (because it is 2AM and I have nothing better to do).
I searched out, found, and enlarged for clarity photos of your "DoubleStar Mini Comp" muzzle device using different angles than have been presented previously here.

But first here is a DPMS mil-spec A2 flash hider...
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Now a cropped close up view of your device looking into the muzzle...
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And finally your device looking down on the top and enlarged so we can easily see into the 5 slots (ports) ...
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Note that like the A2 flash hider your device at the bore opens into a simple expansion chamber, there is no internal architecture that channels the gas toward ports either up (brake) or back (compensator).

True because the slots are on the top the gas will escape there and cause a slight downward reaction on the closed bottom of your device. But I doubt it is preceptiple different when compared to the A2 flash hider which also has a closed bottom. Matter of fact there might be more of a braking effect with the A2 because it has a larger internal surface area to work down on due to it length.

To be honest the double star device looks like a chopped down A2 flash hider with the slots narrowed which has the effect shifting the 3&9 o'clock slots up slightly.
Which is essentially what the manufacturer says on their website in the rather confusing description (AK47 Slant brake? Really?)


🐯
I understand now. It’s not just that these two muzzle devices (the mini-comp and A2 flash hider) are geometrically similar, they are also topologically equivalent. In other words, I should have bought a muzzle brake which LOOKS like a typical muzzle brake and not a device which LOOKS like a flash hider.
 
I understand now. It’s not just that these two muzzle devices (the mini-comp and A2 flash hider) are geometrically similar, they are also topologically equivalent. In other words, I should have bought a muzzle brake which LOOKS like a typical muzzle brake and not a device which LOOKS like a flash hider.
Lol , yup
Heres another angle of RRA brake

And here is the RRA A2 flash hider

So looks like small hole good , big hole bad.
 

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Have we all agreed that blue (or red) Loctite doesn’t constitute pinning and welding? I’m guessing the change of a muzzle device backing off on blue Loctite would be higher than red, but if that doesn’t count, then I’ll have to find a smith to pin whatever I end up with to the barrel.

It’s a personal risk assessment since MGL doesn’t define a permanent installation. Using ATF definitions and guidance would be safest, but really doesn’t strictly apply to MGL.

I would never think blue loctite would count. It’s far too easily removed with normal tools.

Red loctite however, as long as the barrel is over 16”, is good from my personal opinion. They advertise it as a permanent attachment method for threaded parts. And I don’t do mag dumps of entire combat loads to get the end of the barrel past 500 degrees, where the red loctite could loose up. Bottom line is that I can’t imagine a local or state PD taking out a torch to try and get a muzzle device off. And there’s no way a red loctited muzzle device is coming off with mechanical tools and without a torch.

This is all my opinion and speculation though as I don’t know if any actual case law to inform a more reasoned opinion.
 
I forgot where I saw this info, I’ll try to find a cite/source. I read that the distinction between legal/non legal comes down to the diameter of the muzzle device opening. Like for .223 if the opening down the bore isn’t .25 or under, it’s considered a comp/brake/legal. If the opening is larger than that, especially at the muzzle end, it’s considered a flash hider.

Not sure how that plays into linear comps though...

That is nowhere in MGL. If you know of case law that elaborates on that, please share. Until then, I’ll treat that as a gun-shop rumor.
 
It’s a personal risk assessment since MGL doesn’t define a permanent installation. Using ATF definitions and guidance would be safest, but really doesn’t strictly apply to MGL.

I would never think blue loctite would count. It’s far too easily removed with normal tools.

Red loctite however, as long as the barrel is over 16”, is good from my personal opinion. They advertise it as a permanent attachment method for threaded parts. And I don’t do mag dumps of entire combat loads to get the end of the barrel past 500 degrees, where the red loctite could loose up. Bottom line is that I can’t imagine a local or state PD taking out a torch to try and get a muzzle device off. And there’s no way a red loctited muzzle device is coming off with mechanical tools and without a torch.

This is all my opinion and speculation though as I don’t know if any actual case law to inform a more reasoned opinion.

Thanks for that. I would never use blue Loctite, and probably wouldn’t use red either, but was just curious.
 
That is nowhere in MGL. If you know of case law that elaborates on that, please share. Until then, I’ll treat that as a gun-shop rumor.

Yep that's about all it's good for. Thought I recall it being cited by some agency or jurisdiction as a go no go method, but maybe it's just me perpetuating a rumor.
 
Yep that's about all it's good for. Thought I recall it being cited by some agency or jurisdiction as a go no go method, but maybe it's just me perpetuating a rumor.
Genuinely curious if that is guidance given to PDs in the state by an “expert” like Glidden or something. So if anybody has a source, I’m interested.
 
I’m interested in the mystery muzzle brakes being welded to my modern sporting rifles, I’ll post a pic this week after I’ve picked them up. :p
 
I put a comp on my bolt action in 6.5 grendel,Odin Works Atlas. Now granted it's a bolt action but I plan to take it out Wed for a test run. Didn't need washers to put it on just torque it and you're gtg.
 
Well, my gunsmith didn't charge me for the broken pinned stock. I think the total is around $390 for two rifles. Muzzle Brakes came out to around $30 each I think? Bayo lugs filed, muzzle brakes, and stocks pinned and test fire of my 22 LR conversion bolt rifle. I'm picking them up Saturday and I'll post pictures then. Honestly, if it's the same muzzle brake as last time I won't even be disappointed.
 
IMG-1733-1736 are of the muzzle brake on an Anderson build with 22 LR conversion bolt rifle.

IMG-1737-1739 are of the muzzle brake (comp?) on a nearly all Colt (minus Magpul handguard) .223/5.56 rifle.
 

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I had an ALG single chamber brake on a 5.56 AR and recall it being insanely loud + “blastey” but its the only single chamber I’ve used so hopefully your Aero brake is less intense. Then again if 22lr it won’t matter.
 
I had an ALG single chamber brake on a 5.56 AR and recall it being insanely loud + “blastey” but its the only single chamber I’ve used so hopefully your Aero brake is less intense. Then again if 22lr it won’t matter.
Then when I put the regular 5.56 BCG in I’ll be the biggest jerk on the firing line lol
 
But all jokes aside, I’m pretty happy with both of these brakes/comps. I’m glad he didn’t put the big honker on there I had on my Rad firearms upper I was going for a different look this time. I didn’t get a good picture of it because no one would really give a hoot but he also did an awesome job filing the bayo lugs off which I’m happy about.
 
I went to the range today with the ARs. The 22 LR was super soft shooting and pleasant. The 5.56 muzzle brake was loud as hell! I definitely only want to take it to outdoor ranges...indoors I’ll look like a total jerk!
 
My 14.5 has a pinned surefire 4 prong but my 10.3 just has a bird cage on it. Since the 10.3 is set up for home defense, I don’t really know what direction I want to take it because I think comps and brakes create more muzzle flash right
 
I went to the range today with the ARs. The 22 LR was super soft shooting and pleasant. The 5.56 muzzle brake was loud as hell! I definitely only want to take it to outdoor ranges...indoors I’ll look like a total jerk!
seen a guy this weekend standing about 45 degrees south and about 2' away from his buddies muzzle brake. He was trying to figure out what gave him the tap to the groin area. I hate brakes, well when im not behind the rifle.
Oh and if your coming to OCSA for modern mil match with one of those load ass brakes we will put you up gainst the wall so you leave punch drunk!
 
My 14.5 has a pinned surefire 4 prong but my 10.3 just has a bird cage on it. Since the 10.3 is set up for home defense, I don’t really know what direction I want to take it because I think comps and brakes create more muzzle flash right

The pressure is the pressure and the volume of gas is the volume of gas. That isn't going to change with a comp vs. a FH. The difference is where it is sent. With a 10.3 there is going to be a lot of noise and flash in a dark home defense scenario either way.

That being said, a flash hider directs the flash away from you precisely to aid THE SHOOTER when shooting in dark conditions. It will make it a little easier on your eyes and a lot easier on your ears, while being terrifying and blinding to anyone on the receiving end of the rifle. Think camera flash at night.

The comp however is going to send the blast predominantly to either side of you. It will be much louder and more shocking to you. More likely to flash blind you. Potentially ignite curtains or shatter objects on a shelf to your side. Which could then end up in your eyes. Obviously some of those are more likely to be a problem than others. Personally I would rather not risk blinding/deafening myself any more than necessary nor potentially destroy things I'm not even pointing the rifle at. Not to mention loosing the flash-bang like effect you would have on the BG even if you missed with your first shot.

Anyhow, my .02. If this reads as a little pedantic it wasn't meant to be, just thorough.
 
Jumping on this to see if you guys had any recommendations for a really small muzzle brake to complete my SBR build. It’s gonna be going on a 10.5 aero 5.56 upper and I’m trying to keep it as short as possible. Thanks in advance!
 
Wait - if you SBR it I thought you could keep the birdcage. Is that incorrect?
I recently had a gunsmith tell me that a flash hider could only go on a preban. This build is on a new lower.
You could always go with a crown. That would add zero inches to your 10.5
Could you elaborate a little more. I’m unfamiliar with what you suggested. Thanks.
 
I recently had a gunsmith tell me that a flash hider could only go on a preban. This build is on a new lower.

Could you elaborate a little more. I’m unfamiliar with what you suggested. Thanks.

sure a crown is just when you have a gun smith cut the end of the barrel rather than put a device on it. See pic below. If I can’t have a flash hider or a compensator that basically is a flash hider I’ll take a crown.

I have one AR that’s pre ban that has a 14.5 barrel with extend A2 bringing it to just over 16” I have a second built only on a premaura that I wanted the exact same length so I had a crown put on it.





F30F32B8-0B84-47CF-B49A-2126ECDEE30C.jpeg
 
sure a crown is just when you have a gun smith cut the end of the barrel rather than put a device on it. See pic below. If I can’t have a flash hider or a compensator that basically is a flash hider I’ll take a crown.

I have one AR that’s pre ban that has a 14.5 barrel with extend A2 bringing it to just over 16” I have a second built only on a premaura that I wanted the exact same length so I had a crown put on it.





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Thanks a lot! Didn’t even know that was an option.
 
I have come to really like my 11’ target crowns on my ARs.
I completely agree with this. I am regretting my pinned and welded Gamma VG6 on my 14.5 barrel, too many cons.

-The baffles in the brake are definitely eroding much faster than I would have expected.

-The crown of the muzzle gets unevenly fouled and is very difficult to clean. I don't know if it causes any accuracy issues but I still don't like it.

-The larger O.D. makes the gas block and barrel nut non removable. I have an slr adjustable gas block and it is a pain to clean if you don't want the adjustments to freeze up.

-Its obnoxious to shoot after a while.

That being said, it does work very well at reducing recoil and staying on target. And it looks good.
 
The machining quality of Ultradyne devices is outstanding. They all include a timing nut mounting system (no crush washers).

This is what we use on our 10.5” barrels, it is 1.69 inches in length.

Keep in mind this is a linear compensator, the theory for us is that with that short of a barrel we want everything going away from the shooter as much a possible.

🐯
 
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