Moisin Inspection?

rocket500

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Gents- Bought my first Moisin Nagant today, an M44. What kind of inspection would you recommend prior to firing beyond the usual clean/lube?
 
Any Cosmoline? Most likely you will have to strip down and clean and lube. I always headspace mine. I also clean the bore well. Some I have electrochemically cleaned. Some will say fire away and let the heat melt the Cosmo away. Up to you. I clean mine well, before I take them out to the range.
Fire away, get ready for an awesome kick. It kicks like a mule. Have fun.
 
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It doesn't really have any cosmoline. Definately will clean and lube. I think I should probably at least test it with a no-go gauge for headspace, good suggestion.
 
If the bolt and receiver have matching numbers your probably all set with head space. I've never heard of someone buying a matching number Mosin with bad spacing.

The only thing I would do after a good cleaning is use a Mosin firing pin protrusion gauge after you reassemble the bolt.
 
If the bolt and receiver have matching numbers your probably all set with head space. I've never heard of someone buying a matching number Mosin with bad spacing.

The only thing I would do after a good cleaning is use a Mosin firing pin protrusion gauge after you reassemble the bolt.

THIS is very important. Hot primer gas in the face from a ruptured primer would be a bad start to a trip to the range. My 91-30 came with the kit......my M38 did not. If you don't have that gauge make sure you either get one or use some type of guage to ensure the firing pin protrudes the correct amount. The "notch" that the knurl has on it that lines up with the firing pin is not reliable. I've put my bolt back together countless times and lined up the notches......then a check with the guage and I had to back it out or advance it one full turn to get the protrusion just right.

The carbine mosins are a awesome. My M38 is by far my "funnest" gun to shoot.
 
I do have the tool and will check the pin. The bolt and gun numbers do match. The rest of the numbered parts look to be force matched. The barrel is not counter-bored. The metal is good to very good. Little to no rust or pitting. The wood is good but nothing special with varnish chipping away here and there. No cracks or big gouges. It is marked 1944. I do not believe there is anything particularly special about it. I'll get a pic up.
 
I do have the tool and will check the pin. The bolt and gun numbers do match. The rest of the numbered parts look to be force matched. The barrel is not counter-bored. The metal is good to very good. Little to no rust or pitting. The wood is good but nothing special with varnish chipping away here and there. No cracks or big gouges. It is marked 1944. I do not believe there is anything particularly special about it. I'll get a pic up.

You said the bolt and gun numbers match.......you should be G2G.......enjoy that M44. I'm considering taking my M38 out to the range this afternoon...........can't get enough of that BOOOOOOOOM!
 
You really want to get all the Cosmo out if the locking lug area. A little bit left in there will make the bolt hard to open and close .
This cant be true enough. I cant ID some of the crud I have picked out of there.
So far of the 4 people I know all had sticky bolts solved by digging the crud from the lug recess and a good chamber scrub.
Also the diy trigger polish job works well as long as the sear spring doesxnot have deep machine marks running across it...... although it adds a bit of pull to the spring adding the slack spring to mine really helped.
Mosins are very fun. I like loading light cast loads and letting the kids shoot it.
nothing funnier than handing a 10 yr old a mosin when the people around do not now its basically loaded with a pistol round. "Poof..........smack" the lead hitting the paper is as load as the report......
 
My numbers-matching 91/30 came covered in cosmo. I cleaned it and just went shooting. If you bought the gun from someone and it's not just a cosmo-drowned milsurp, then I'd check the firing pin in case it's been taken apart and not put together properly but even then I wouldn't bother with headspace if the numbers match.

mac1911 - a friend of mine reloads Mosin mouse loads and they are hilarious to shoot -feels like a .22!
 
The only thing that sucks about owning two mosins today......it's raining and I want to go shoot em!
 
The only thing that sucks about owning two mosins today......it's raining and I want to go shoot em!

Why not shoot in the rain . I've shot in a snow storm . It sucked walking 50 yards in two plus feet of snow to change the target .
If your range doesn't have a covered area to shoot from that sucks .
 
The only thing that sucks about owning two mosins today......it's raining and I want to go shoot em!
Hope borris doesnt see this you might learn several new words in russian with a loose translation of...... well you know where this is going!
 
Why not shoot in the rain . I've shot in a snow storm . It sucked walking 50 yards in two plus feet of snow to change the target .
If your range doesn't have a covered area to shoot from that sucks .

Yeah its got a cover........guess I'm heading out the door........we have an indoor 22 range also so I'll bring the single 10 in case its downpouring. I'll stop being a puss
 
I like loading light cast loads and letting the kids shoot it. nothing funnier than handing a 10 yr old a mosin when the people around do not now its basically loaded with a pistol round. "Poof..........smack" the lead hitting the paper is as load as the report......

please share the details!
 
please share the details!
200 gn .314" cast with 15 grains of trail boss. Fun fun fun.
Also 2400 powder does well to. For a bit more ummpphh I will use H4895 reduced loads. Good out to 200 yard 18" gong nock'n.
I cant bring up the link google. Hodgdon h4895 reduced loads and hodgdon trailboss rifle loads.
 
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Cleaned the bore today, has good rifling. Took the bolt apart and cleaned that up, firing pin checks out on the gauge. Need to run a few rounds through and re-scrub the bore.
 
image.jpg image.jpg Does not close on a no-go gauge, so I think it is good to go. Bore has good rifling but is pitted. We'll see how it shoots.
 

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View attachment 110263View attachment 110264Does not close on a no-go gauge, so I think it is good to go. Bore has good rifling but is pitted. We'll see how it shoots.


Let us know how the first range trip goes! Trust me you'll like the "show". My M38 I picked up has a fantastically shiny bright bore with no pitting at all.......my 91-30 on the other hand has strong rifling but is "frosted" looking and has some pitting.........both are just as accurate IMO though. Don't let a little pitting worry you on a milsurp gun..........just clean it well after you shoot it and run a wet patch of CLP through it before you put her away.......she'll last forever!

- - - Updated - - -

yeah it does. the bruise on my shoulder from Friday still hurts...

Pachmeyer slip on recoil pad.....size small. Best 15 bucks I ever spent on a milsurp rifle.......I can shoot my carbine and 91-30 all day long now!
 
No worries about the bore- the gun overall is in good shape considering its 70 years old but is in no way a museum piece. It will get shot some and otherwise is a neat piece of history for my collection.
 
Make sure the chamber is free of any dried cosmoline. That is one of the first things that folks run into when they get a bolt that after a few rounds want open and result in a wooden mallet to open the bolt. I use a 410 bore brush and lots of mineral spirits. If you have a bore plug I suggest filing the barrel with a good solvent and let it sit overnight and work. Drain the solvent and clean as you would after a trip to the range. Also there are electronic cleaning rods or even home made ones that work wonders at getting out baked on crud located i the grooves. There is a post here on how to make one. Very inexpensive but well worth it. I paid $32 bucks for mine on Amazon and it works great.
 
Make sure the chamber is free of any dried cosmoline. That is one of the first things that folks run into when they get a bolt that after a few rounds want open and result in a wooden mallet to open the bolt. I use a 410 bore brush and lots of mineral spirits. If you have a bore plug I suggest filing the barrel with a good solvent and let it sit overnight and work. Drain the solvent and clean as you would after a trip to the range. Also there are electronic cleaning rods or even home made ones that work wonders at getting out baked on crud located i the grooves. There is a post here on how to make one. Very inexpensive but well worth it. I paid $32 bucks for mine on Amazon and it works great.

1 warning on the electro bore cleaning. When you look down your bore and see a nice shining bore..... 1. Send a solvent patch down the bore. Send a few dry ones.
How where the patches.......dirty clean? If dirty and you still have a shiny bore?

I have come to the conclussion most bores are shiny due to highly polished fouling. Don't be shocked if you electro bore clean and uncover all the pits hidden under the heavy fouling and turns your shine into a dull grey.
Plus to getting it really clean is every rifle I have electro cleaned has improved in accuracy.....
Its so simple to make and doesn't require high current. A phone charger or even just a few batteries. Also electrolysis tanks work well also. Gets entire rifle cleaned up....

http://www.northeastshooters.com/vb...e-Cleaner?highlight=DIY+electro+bore+cleaning there's a few good links here. Also go to last post this is what came out of what looked like a nice shiny bore!
 
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