Looking to start reloading for an AR15 platform need advice

Correct you cant see the port. With zero leading that I can actual see building up any where I feel confident that there will be no lead build up in the gas port that would affect function. I'm only in my trial stage for AR with cast. As I see it ammunition is going to become a bigger problem for us civilians in the not to near future so I want to at least have some sort of supply. I have only tried a few powders the last 100 or so where with H4895 following Hodgdon guide lines for reduced loads I have only begun. Over the winter I plan on mixing up a little harder alloy and push these pellets a bit faster in attempt to get decent accuracy and function of the rifle. Right now they are fun plinking lower recoil and rifle needs to be cycled by hand....I use a single shot mag for now. Figure I can at least have a cheap supply of bullets. I dumped 40 rounds of 30-06 cast through my garand with good results with only one load being able to eject a round but not picking up the next.

OP asked about crimping.....I answered I don't crimp except for a certain bullet with a very sharp edged flat base. Even with the chamfer on the inside have a tendency to "grab" the case . These bullets shoot well so I'm going to use them. With the lee die set I use if I don't skightly flare the case these bullets don't go in straight kink case mouths or shaves of jacket material.......only this particular bullet gives me issues. I have several thousand of them. The price I paid its well worth a little added step to make them work.....its also a good way to use up my Xx fired cases

I like what you are doing.......and the fact that ammo is scarce and increasing in price by quite a bit is exactly why I am starting to stock up on reloading equipment. I am just glad I saved all my brass. I also thought about casting into a home made jacket then resizing it after. Just a thought.
 
Dude, the bites you are taking need to be nibbles.

-Proud to be dad every day, a licensed plumber most days, and wish I was a shoemaker on others.
 
I like what you are doing.......and the fact that ammo is scarce and increasing in price by quite a bit is exactly why I am starting to stock up on reloading equipment. I am just glad I saved all my brass. I also thought about casting into a home made jacket then resizing it after. Just a thought.

swaging your own jacketed bullets is another "hobby" all in its self....started down that road but stopped and stayed with casting. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kN1BrZM-U2Q
Im not sure what these guys are saying but it seems from the presses they are way into makeing bullets.....skip to min 18min 30 sec http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NybgJbelPE way beyound what I want to do.......my god i dont have room for more presses!
 
Update!

Today I mounted my little $28 press, lubed 320 cases, decamped and sized them all. I wanted a better case trimmer then the ones than come in a kit so I think soon I will buy the Forster Original Case Trimmer I like the fact that there is no plastic parts and it use Brown and Sharpe type collets. I have to think about some other supplies also........

None of my business, but it might be a good idea to go step by step with a handful of rounds from start to finish. That way, if you made a mistake or two somewhere in the process you only have a few rounds that need to be pulled or tossed rather than all of them. Pick a number that if you had to pull the rounds or throw them away, it wouldnt turn you into a rage monster. If you could re-do or scrap 20 without being totally pissed, do 20. If its 50, then do 50. Make sure youre doing everything right from beginning to end before you do them all.

Just my opinion.
 
Well I was going to check them in a case gauge next, but I don't have one yet. None came close to sticking in the sizing process or took too much force to do so hope they are still good (well a few were a tad snug). Is it possible to totally ruin the brass in this process?
 
Well I was going to check them in a case gauge next, but I don't have one yet. None came close to sticking in the sizing process or took too much force to do so hope they are still good (well a few were a tad snug). Is it possible to totally ruin the brass in this process?

Yes. It's possible (but unlikely) that you can push the case shoulders back too far.

It's also possible that you didn't push the shoulder back far enough, which will require you so resize your brass again.

Is all of the brass you're using you own from your own rifle, or are there range pick-ups in there too?
 
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Well I was going to check them in a case gauge next, but I don't have one yet. None came close to sticking in the sizing process or took too much force to do so hope they are still good (well a few were a tad snug). Is it possible to totally ruin the brass in this process?
I can tell when there's a odd man out in my brass( I do try to keep my match gun brass seperate from the others) my brass for my match gun resizes effortlessly vs range pick ups or from my Nato chamber rifles.
 
Yes. It's possible (but unlikely) that you can push the case shoulders back too far.

It's also possible that you didn't push the shoulder back far enough, which will require you so resize your brass again.

Is all of the brass you're using you own from your own rifle, or are there range pick-ups in there too?

Yes, all my brass was from brand new ammo and only fired from my AR.
 
If you want to go really mental, there's a guy on YouTube, I think the name is Ammosmith..... He makes jacketed bullets..... And in one of his videos he uses .22 brass to make .223 jackets

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Yes, all my brass was from brand new ammo and only fired from my AR.

Good. Then you won't have anything that's way too long to start off with.

If you want to go really mental, there's a guy on YouTube, I think the name is Ammosmith..... He makes jacketed bullets..... And in one of his videos he uses .22 brass to make .223 jackets

There are people here that do that (DukeInMaine/DukeInFlorida is one). It's too much work for me. I'd rather just buy them and spend my time making ammo and shooting it. I hardly even cast any more (except for my .500 - even the lead bullets for that are expensive).
 
Good. Then you won't have anything that's way too long to start off with.



There are people here that do that (DukeInMaine/DukeInFlorida is one). It's too much work for me. I'd rather just buy them and spend my time making ammo and shooting it. I hardly even cast any more (except for my .500 - even the lead bullets for that are expensive).

Its all time consuming. In the stage I'm at in life I am home a lot with the kids. So I have a good amount of time in the evening to crank out rounds, cast ectect. Makeing bullets and applying jackets from rim fire takes some dedicated equipment
Getting way ahead....

If you want to jump ahead of the curve start hoarding the hipoint pistols for your zinc bullets when they ban lead skip to 6min for the fast melt down http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=DiwPt-wMfdI
 
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Well guys I took my digital calipers today and took some measurements off brand new factory rounds, then my sized brass I then looked up some info on the computer. Here is my comparison(see pic), from this I am thinking that my brass is good to go no trimming needed. I drew up this diagram comparing my brass(red text) to actual measure factory ammo(GRN Text) to theoretical dimention(not sure if these are accurate in BLK Text)
http://www.dreamtone.org/reloading/223 specs.bmp
 
That was my first press and it cracked after 50 rifle rounds.

Piss $27 away or get a cast iron press.


I am lucky in many ways, I own a TIG welder, so far so good and I kinda like it.

I think this press can survive at least to my break even point, and is a good learning experience.

If you figure the cheap press is a consumable like powder, bullets, and primers then my cost so far is:

If this was the consumables to do 300 rounds:

$ 28.00 = press
$ 30.00 = powder+pimers
$ 30.00 = bullets
total is $88

What is the price for 300 rounds if you have to buy it? $200 at the bulk price if its available??
 
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What is the price for 300 rounds if you have to buy it? $200 at the bulk price if its available??

One thing people forget..... If you work up a load for your rifle and produce quality hand loads.... You're saving the price of "match quality" factory loads which could be $1+/round..... You can still go to a gun show and buy surplus cheaper than you can make it..... But you're not going to get 1moa or better groups from it.....

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Well guys I took my digital calipers today and took some measurements off brand new factory rounds, then my sized brass I then looked up some info on the computer. Here is my comparison(see pic), from this I am thinking that my brass is good to go no trimming needed. I drew up this diagram comparing my brass(red text) to actual measure factory ammo(GRN Text) to theoretical dimention(not sure if these are accurate in BLK Text)
http://www.dreamtone.org/reloading/223 specs.bmp

You'll likely have to trim next time.

All of the other dimensions you highlighted are automatically set by the die. If the die is in spec, you'll get what you get. You left out the only one that's dependent on you and how you set your die: headspace length.

The case headspace length is going to determine whether or not the rounds will chamber. If you sized the case without touching the shoulder, your headspace length will have increased - possibly to the point where the rounds won't chamber. This is a pretty common beginner error.

A case gage (or RCBS Precision Mic or Hornady headspace comparator) will tell you if the headspace length is right.
 
You'll likely have to trim next time.

All of the other dimensions you highlighted are automatically set by the die. If the die is in spec, you'll get what you get. You left out the only one that's dependent on you and how you set your die: headspace length.

The case headspace length is going to determine whether or not the rounds will chamber. If you sized the case without touching the shoulder, your headspace length will have increased - possibly to the point where the rounds won't chamber. This is a pretty common beginner error.

A case gage (or RCBS Precision Mic or Hornady headspace comparator) will tell you if the headspace length is right.

Thanks, I am ordering the head space gauge tonight from Kittery Trading Post, loved going there as a kid......been a long time since I been back there.
 
Thanks, I am ordering the head space gauge tonight from Kittery Trading Post, loved going there as a kid......been a long time since I been back there.
Was just at KTP this morning. They had a few used presses for sale; one of which was a Bonanza CO-AX I snagged for $50. I giggled all the way home.
 
Was just at KTP this morning. They had a few used presses for sale; one of which was a Bonanza CO-AX I snagged for $50. I giggled all the way home.

Nice score! I paid a LOT more for mine.
 
I always regretted selling my other co-ax a few years ago. I couldn't believe they only wanted 50 and it was still there.
They also had a rockchucker, a rockchucker jr., and a spar-t.
 
I always regretted selling my other co-ax a few years ago. I couldn't believe they only wanted 50 and it was still there.
They also had a rockchucker, a rockchucker jr., and a spar-t.

I think most people even reloaders are not familur with the co ax press.
 
I always regretted selling my other co-ax a few years ago. I couldn't believe they only wanted 50 and it was still there.
They also had a rockchucker, a rockchucker jr., and a spar-t.

Nice score Pat. I've seen some amazing deals on used equipment at KTP. I've also seen some ridiculously priced used crap at KTP. It's as if they use a random number generator to set the prices.
 
Nice score Pat. I've seen some amazing deals on used equipment at KTP. I've also seen some ridiculously priced used crap at KTP. It's as if they use a random number generator to set the prices.
The trade in system is just as wacky....
 
I made out pretty good at KTP on Tuesday:

The Co-Ax press for $50
I traded a case of Portuguese .308 for a MAR177 upper. I bought that case for $169 a few years ago.
I also traded a run-of-the-mill Garand, a Remington 241, and a Savage 170 (I had to throw in another $73 cash) for a Winchester M70 Match rifle complete with Warner sight, Jewell trigger, and fully adjustable stock.

They are hit-and-miss down at KTP, but I think I got them on a good day.
 
Update, I got the Dillon case gage in the other day and so far all my brass fits in the case very flush. Hopefully once loaded it will be the same. But right now I been taking my time removing the crimps and hand reaming the pocket and razor first seems to do OK but its a slow process. Borrowed my buddies digital scale and getting ready just to do a few test on the Lee 1.6 cc dipper and how many grains; I also got 500 55g FMJBT bullets for about .104 cents each. I did not tumble the brass just washed them, any opinions on this?
 
The Lee loading data recommends 25.5 Grains using Varget, but the scoop seems to always give about 3 Grains under; Will this be OK? Also here is the various test results 22.4, 22.6, 22.9, 22.7, 22.6
 
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