Looking to start reloading for an AR15 platform need advice

[center442]

Well I was thinking about buying two of theses so my dies would always be set in place, but not sure if they are strong enough?

http://www.dreamtone.org/reloading/press.PNG

Keven, I'd avoid that press, not because of the brand but because of the style. That's a "C" press. Compare it to an "O" press like this one.

The "O" style press will have a lot less flex to it. My first press years ago was a Lyman Spartan "C" style. It worked fine for pistol ammo, but wasn't very good with rifle brass. Way too much flex. There are lots of fine single stage presses out there. A good one will outlast you, and won't break the bank. FWIW I've loaded many thousands of rounds on the Lee press that I linked to above. It's a solid press. I especially like the fact that spent primers are ejected down a plastic tube into a container, like a coffee can. The other good thing about it is that the handle can be set for right or left-hand use, and you can vary the length of the handle depending on how much leverage you need. I don't care for the Lee primer seating setup, so I use a separate tool for priming.

Before you buy any press, consider where and how you'll be mounting it. Some presses sit entirely on top of a bench, most hang over the front edge. You'll need some clear space under the top edge of the bench for the linkage to move freely.

Hope this helps.

ETA: Sorry, just noticed that you had made your purchase. I didn't read through the entire thread before posting. Enjoy your new hobby of reloading!

 

[edhead35]

The RCBS Rockchucker doesn't cam over. I guess you can't believe everything you see in a video.

Just like there is the Youtube guy that is the "expert" on Hornady LNL AP presses. He gets quoted all of the time on other sites as being the master.

One of the reasons, he like the LNL AP is it doesn't cam over.

But it does. shrug.

 

[EddieCoyle]

Just like there is the Youtube guy that is the "expert" on Hornady LNL AP presses. He gets quoted all of the time on other sites as being the master.

One of the reasons, he like the LNL AP is it doesn't cam over.

But it does. shrug.

It most certainly does.

 

[Keven]

Keven, I'd avoid that press, not because of the brand but because of the style. That's a "C" press. Compare it to an "O" press like this one.

The "O" style press will have a lot less flex to it. My first press years ago was a Lyman Spartan "C" style. It worked fine for pistol ammo, but wasn't very good with rifle brass. Way too much flex. There are lots of fine single stage presses out there. A good one will outlast you, and won't break the bank. FWIW I've loaded many thousands of rounds on the Lee press that I linked to above. It's a solid press. I especially like the fact that spent primers are ejected down a plastic tube into a container, like a coffee can. The other good thing about it is that the handle can be set for right or left-hand use, and you can vary the length of the handle depending on how much leverage you need. I don't care for the Lee primer seating setup, so I use a separate tool for priming.

Before you buy any press, consider where and how you'll be mounting it. Some presses sit entirely on top of a bench, most hang over the front edge. You'll need some clear space under the top edge of the bench for the linkage to move freely.

Hope this helps.

ETA: Sorry, just noticed that you had made your purchase. I didn't read through the entire thread before posting. Enjoy your new hobby of reloading!

Well my little $28 dollar press may be used only for hand gun reloading so I may still be looking for a better press for my rifle. I did like that Lee you posted, and I like a lot of the others as well.

Thanks for the info!

 

[Keven]

I bought 2Lbs of Varget and 1,000 WSR primers today!

I got another question about bullets, should I get flat base or ones with a boat tail? My buddy seemed to struggle a bit seating his flat base bullets or I should say he had to hold them in place or the would fall out as he was raising the ram to seating die.

 

[EddieCoyle]

What's the application for the ammo? What's the twist rate of your barrel?

 

[Supermoto]

I bought 2Lbs of Varget and 1,000 WSR primers today!

I got another question about bullets, should I get flat base or ones with a boat tail? My buddy seemed to struggle a bit seating his flat base bullets or I should say he had to hold them in place or the would fall out as he was raising the ram to seating die.

that's not really a problem. You want to hold them until they go into the die so they go in as straight as possible

 

[Keven]

What's the application for the ammo? What's the twist rate of your barrel?

1:9 and its a 16" I like to target shoot at 100, 200, and 300 max. Usually I shoot with off the shelf 55grain ammo, but I was thinking maybe for those 300 yard shots I might want to use a heavy bullet maybe 62 grain.

 

[mac1911]

I bought 2Lbs of Varget and 1,000 WSR primers today!

I got another question about bullets, should I get flat base or ones with a boat tail? My buddy seemed to struggle a bit seating his flat base bullets or I should say he had to hold them in place or the would fall out as he was raising the ram to seating die.

With my flat base bullets and my lee die I use for my plinking loads I had to slightly flare the case mouth to get the flat base bullets to start in with out problems. Mind you the flare is very very small just enough as to not catch a "edge". I then lightly crimp to remove flare. I'm not so concerned with case life as all my plinking rounds are loaded in brass that has been loaded many times....at this point I think you should just buy the bullets available and try a few different ones and see what's best for your rifle?

 

[Keven]

I too was a newbie reloader five years ago. I made every mistake known to mankind. But I'm a stubborn bastard and, with the help of a few posts here on NES, I made my way.

You buddy's ammo problems sound like newbie issues. Yup, I had them in .223. I was not pushing the shoulder's down enough resulting in lots of issues. Slowly but surely I came around and got it all working, and understand most of it these days.

It takes persistence. And training if you can. I chose the path of learning myself. If I had to do it all over again I'd probably go to a class. There's a lot of little things you only learn the hard way, and a class can help you get over that hump.

Or you can walk miles on broken glass like I did...

Thanks for the support! You guys are the only instructor I will have; I am like you stubborn to the ninth degree. BUT I plan on getting a case gauge and I will load only one at a time and check them on that gauge. I also been watching videos and reading the posts here. If after a few rounds I see issues then I will seek more detailed advice.

 

[Keven]

TL;DR

go with the RCBS rockchucker, the thing is a tank, your granddaughter will pass it on to her son.....
start off with single stage, get the process down, then you can invest in a progressive as your volume increases (or if you switch to pistol, 300 pistol rounds single stage is a PITA) but i can crank through 200 .223 rounds in no time with my rock chucker....

read whatever EddieCoyle posts in this thread and follow his advice, if you haven't taken his metallic cartridge reloading class yet... TAKE IT....

WHAT! We got a reloading instructor here! I feel lucky now like I can't possibly go wrong.

 

[mac1911]

Thanks for the support! You guys are the only instructor I will have; I am like you stubborn to the ninth degree. BUT I plan on getting a case gauge and I will load only one at a time and check them on that gauge. I also been watching videos and reading the posts here. If after a few rounds I see issues then I will seek more detailed advice.

Use the case guage to set up your die correctly...I use the rcbs precision mic and only load for my match rifle with those rounds set up for that die.......my plinking ammo is set by the Wilson case gage to be used in any of my ARs.
Good luck.......ohhh yes we do have a certified instructor umong us. Even though I been loading for 6 years now I plan on taking his class when time allows......someday

 

[Keven]

With my flat base bullets and my lee die I use for my plinking loads I had to slightly flare the case mouth to get the flat base bullets to start in with out problems. Mind you the flare is very very small just enough as to not catch a "edge". I then lightly crimp to remove flare. I'm not so concerned with case life as all my plinking rounds are loaded in brass that has been loaded many times....at this point I think you should just buy the bullets available and try a few different ones and see what's best for your rifle?

So how do you do this flare? I got this die set http://www.midwayusa.com/product/434975/lee-pacesetter-3-die-set-223-remington

 

[EddieCoyle]

You don't need to flare. Just chamfer the inside of the case mouths and seat carefully.

 

[mac1911]

So how do you do this flare? I got this die set http://www.midwayusa.com/product/434975/lee-pacesetter-3-die-set-223-remington

For your listed application the flat base bullets may not be best suited for you? So I wouldn't bother flareing the case mouth before you try your die set and what ever bullets you may have first. I purchased a large amount of 52 grain flat based bullets from a guy who shot prairie dogs with his 22-250. Well he hasxlived in mass for the last 10 years and no plans on moving anytime soon. Offered me a great price on these bullets and along with it the Lyman M die. He purchased these bullets back in the 70s the flat base hasxvery sharp edges and catches the case mouth enough to drive you nutty even with a good chamfer on the inside of the neck.......hence the m die. I load some hornady vmax flat base that do not need the flare.?
You need to get your stuff. Read your manual and begin to see what issues come up....I lucked out and was able to learn a good amount from a old timer. Sadly he passed before I learned more......

 

[Keven]

yeah I hear you lots of variables to consider and everyone has his own set up and supplies. Thanks for the info on the M die.

 

[mac1911]

yeah I hear you lots of variables to consider and everyone has his own set up and supplies. Thanks for the info on the M die.

I use the m die also for my cast loads for 223.

 

[Keven]

You don't need to flare. Just chamfer the inside of the case mouths and seat carefully.

When is your next reloading class and do you have one specifically for the AR?

 

[Keven]

I use the m die also for my cast loads for 223.

Interesting, I never thought about casting lead for .223, would that work for an AR15? Where did you buy the mold?

 

[edhead35]

When is your next reloading class and do you have one specifically for the AR?

Massreloading.com

 

[Fixxah]

WHAT! We got a reloading instructor here! I feel lucky now like I can't possibly go wrong.

Evidently you haven't actually read much.

Interesting, I never thought about casting lead for .223, would that work for an AR15? Where did you buy the mold?

I wouldn't for an AR. Bolt and handguns I would.



-Proud to be dad every day, a licensed plumber most days, and wish I was a shoemaker on others.

 

[headednorth]

Interesting, I never thought about casting lead for .223, would that work for an AR15? Where did you buy the mold?

Ive heard the lead can obstruct the gas port

 

[Keven]

Evidently you haven't actually read much.
I wouldn't for an AR. Bolt and handguns I would.



-Proud to be dad every day, a licensed plumber most days, and wish I was a shoemaker on others.

Yeah, wow that's true ........man I forgot about the AR's gas port; Time for me to buy an old school 30-06 bolt gun!

 

[Fixxah]

You can find many other guns in that caliber. I have a Contender in .223 and once I get it back (haven't droppped it off yet) I plan on hitting some steel with it.

-Proud to be dad every day, a licensed plumber most days, and wish I was a shoemaker on others.

 

[mac1911]

Ive heard the lead can obstruct the gas port

I have read all the info I could find for cast loads in semi auto rifles. After some pleasing results with cast loads in my milsurp rifles I tried some in my garand they shot very well although they didnt cycle the action. I came across the rcbs spire point 55grain bullet mold and said "why not" I'm pushing straight WW alloy with gas check to 1600fps out of the 20" bastard of a AR I have. I have seen zero leading anywhere. 250 rounds. Nothing more than a quick bore snake wipe after each range use..........I will be doing more testing next year.

 

[EddieCoyle]

You can't see leading in the gas port.

 

[mac1911]

You can't see leading in the gas port.

Correct you cant see the port. With zero leading that I can actual see building up any where I feel confident that there will be no lead build up in the gas port that would affect function. I'm only in my trial stage for AR with cast. As I see it ammunition is going to become a bigger problem for us civilians in the not to near future so I want to at least have some sort of supply. I have only tried a few powders the last 100 or so where with H4895 following Hodgdon guide lines for reduced loads I have only begun. Over the winter I plan on mixing up a little harder alloy and push these pellets a bit faster in attempt to get decent accuracy and function of the rifle. Right now they are fun plinking lower recoil and rifle needs to be cycled by hand....I use a single shot mag for now. Figure I can at least have a cheap supply of bullets. I dumped 40 rounds of 30-06 cast through my garand with good results with only one load being able to eject a round but not picking up the next.

OP asked about crimping.....I answered I don't crimp except for a certain bullet with a very sharp edged flat base. Even with the chamfer on the inside have a tendency to "grab" the case . These bullets shoot well so I'm going to use them. With the lee die set I use if I don't skightly flare the case these bullets don't go in straight kink case mouths or shaves of jacket material.......only this particular bullet gives me issues. I have several thousand of them. The price I paid its well worth a little added step to make them work.....its also a good way to use up my Xx fired cases

 

[Nick Fury]

I read a bit (online lol) about casting 5.56 and 7.62 for ARs and the Mini-30 and the weak link was cycling not leading. The 7.62 did fine with reduced loads but the 5.56 needs velocity/pressure levels not realistically obtainable with a lead bullet.

 

[mac1911]

I read a bit (online lol) about casting 5.56 and 7.62 for ARs and the Mini-30 and the weak link was cycling not leading. The 7.62 did fine with reduced loads but the 5.56 needs velocity/pressure levels not realistically obtainable with a lead bullet.

I have high hopes that the H4895 will cycle the cast bullets in the AR. I stopped testing after the 30 rounds of h4895 powder to conserve powder and primers for my other loadings. I think once I get a hard alloy #2 or linotype I can push these into tthe 2300fps zone which should get the action moving. I also need some more lube. Been useing 2500 with good results driving cast out of my 03A3 @ 2400fps with just WW alloy.......I also plan on cast for my m1 carbine.

 

[Keven]

Update!

Today I mounted my little $28 press, lubed 320 cases, decamped and sized them all. I wanted a better case trimmer then the ones than come in a kit so I think soon I will buy the Forster Original Case Trimmer I like the fact that there is no plastic parts and it use Brown and Sharpe type collets. I have to think about some other supplies also........