Looking for a solid .308 M5 barrel.

Sadly no pics.

The best groups I got were most like #3. No real pattern.

I ordered this yesterday. Had to send it to NH so it will be a while before I get it.

Ballistic Advantage

View attachment 827171
watch some videos on a barrel swap, it is not difficult at all, but pay attention to lapping and lubing the thread and re-torquing. ARs are very simple guns and easy to make right, if procedures are followed properly. you need to order a rifle length gas tube also, and i would recommend an adjustable gas block, if old one is non-adjustable. it is not a must-have, but sometimes is helpful.
 
watch some videos on a barrel swap, it is not difficult at all, but pay attention to lapping and lubing the thread and re-torquing. ARs are very simple guns and easy to make right, if procedures are followed properly. you need to order a rifle length gas tube also, and i would recommend an adjustable gas block, if old one is non-adjustable. it is not a must-have, but sometimes is helpful.
Appreciate the above.

I’ve built (cough cough) a “few” AR’s so this will be an easy upgrade. Including building the uppers from parts.

I just got a great price on the aero compete upper and thought it would be solid. My bad.

I’ll swap barrels and head back to the range and report. I’ll get target pics.
 
I figured it could be “bi caliber”

What about the mags? Bi also? Asking for a friend
6.5cm vs 308 is a barrel swap. same bolt can be used, but it is recommended to use a high pressure bolt that has narrower pin hole. i used both, it does not matter.
magazine is same.

make sure to run lapping tool on the upper. you want to make the mating surface as flat as possible, with no paint on it. important - upper has to be strictly vertical during lapping, there was some video on youtube where it was horizontal - no way. and twist lapping tool by hand, do not use drill.
 
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6.5cm vs 308 is a barrel swap. same bolt can be used, but it is recommended to use a high pressure bolt that has narrower pin hole. i used both, it does not matter.
magazine is same.

make sure to run lapping tool on the upper. you want to make the mating surface as flat as possible, with no paint on it. important - upper has to be strictly vertical during lapping, there was some video on youtube where it was horizontal - no way. and twist lapping tool by hand, do not use drill.
Define lapping it.

You mentioned lapping the thread in a post above this one. That does not make sense


Are you talking about lapping the barrel extension “face” to the upper? The face I’m assuming so that there is a solid connection face to face and not a circumference lap, which would not do to much.

Just clarifying
 
You mentioned lapping the thread in a post above this one. That does not make sense
watch videos and read about it. lapping is done to the face of the upper.
you need specifically ar10 tool, they are not the same.

this seems to be ok. you do it to take the paint off, do not take off too much.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1dUd6tmNbY


nut thread grease
Amazon product ASIN B01GGQMF54View: https://www.amazon.com/Umbrella-Corporation-AeroShell-Grease-Mil-Spec/dp/B01GGQMF54
 
Wut Type of powder and primer on your .175 gr load. Am shooting m80ball in my aero m5 and my steven200(savage 10)bolt gun,when that m80 ammo run out i have to load my own,it will be nice if i can get load data for ammo so i can begin to buy powder, primer and bullet.
 
Wut Type of powder and primer on your .175 gr load. Am shooting m80ball in my aero m5 and my steven200(savage 10)bolt gun,when that m80 ammo run out i have to load my own,it will be nice if i can get load data for ammo so i can begin to buy powder, primer and bullet.
my loads are 44gr varget, on non-magnum cci 200 LRP. with 175gr nosler rdf or nosler CC - both work fine. RDF is tad faster and groups tad better.

i tested up to 44.8gr - going higher groups were opening up. above 44.5 it was bit much, too hot, 44gr is optimal.
 
FYI this is the rifle in question. This was prior to the shoot.


View attachment 827226

I think another issue could be the rifle needs more bling.

Where is your:
- vertical grip
- NVG
- Thermal
- Side dot for close quarter combat (one on each side for "reliabilitah")
- Flashlight with 100 million lumens and strobe light
- at least one punisher logo and one American flag.
- QD attached sling
- flip scope caps and throw lever

Operator attire also matters:

- needs Murican flag bandana
- muscle shirt - because you need to show those guns while shooting your gun. Improves accuracy by preventing wind from forming small vortices around the sleeves which affect bolt operation and bullet flight (science), muscles make it flow.
- tight shorts. Can't trip using $300 rapey baggy shorts like Reptile.
- tactical boots
- 3 knives
- 1 flashlight
- 1 CCW with min 4 mags
 
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I think another issue could be the rifle needs more bling.

Where is your:
- vertical grip
- NVG
- Thermal
- Side dot for close quarter combat (one on each side for "reliabilitah")
- Flashlight with 100 million lumens and strobe light
- at least one punisher logo and one American flag.
- QD attached sling
- flip scope caps and throw lever

Operator attire also matters:

- needs Murican flag bandana
- muscle shirt - because you need to show those guns while shooting your gun. Improves accuracy by preventing wind from forming small vortices around the sleeves which affect bolt operation and bullet flight (science), muscles make it flow.
- tight shorts. Can't trip using $300 rapey baggy shorts like Reptile.
- tactical boots
- 3 knives
- 1 flashlight
- 1 CCW with min 4 mags
i would begin with replacing flash hider to a muzzle brake - in MA it is generally a good idea.
 
i would begin with replacing flash hider to a muzzle brake - in MA it is generally a good idea.

The stock flash hider went bye bye as soon as I got the upper

I was shooting with a brake, the brake was causing worse accuracy issues

I replaced it with a fixed in place thread protector and while that improved the groups a lot. It still was not good enough.
 
I was shooting with a brake, the brake was causing worse accuracy issues
generally speaking it is not very typical, the usual effect would be some static shift/deviation, but not an overall randomization of groups.
r u absolutely confident there is definitely no contact from handguard or bipod mount to a gas block, or gas tube to the handguard, etc?

if you hold handguard stiff, put other hand thumb on the end of the barrel and try to wobble it - does it move at all? or a lot? do you feel any knock if it moves?
under the grip on the lower there is an adjustment bolt - did you turn it to eliminate all the upper wobbles?
 
generally speaking it is not very typical, the usual effect would be some static shift/deviation, but not an overall randomization of groups.
r u absolutely confident there is definitely no contact from handguard or bipod mount to a gas block, or gas tube to the handguard, etc?

if you hold handguard stiff, put other hand thumb on the end of the barrel and try to wobble it - does it move at all? or a lot? do you feel any knock if it moves?
under the grip on the lower there is an adjustment bolt - did you turn it to eliminate all the upper wobbles?

The spread on paper with the brake looked like Stevie wonder was shooting… absolutely horrendous. I think I could have a better group with a pistol.

Yup. I knew to not have them interfere when I put the bipod on. Then checked, and checked again. Bipod mount clears the gas block.

Only a picitiny rail section forward of the gas block as well. Nothing else mounted to the hand guard that could contact the barrel or the gas block.

The barrel moves as it should when I grip the hand guard. I did not notice any noises or any weirdness. But I’ll check again when I can. Worth another look

Upper to lower fitment is pretty good as is. I probably when I built it adjusted the set screw to tighten it up.

I was bench resting, sand bag under the stock and snipers hold. So I should have physically taken up any and all slack in the gun.

I even use aluminum tape on the buffer tube to reduce stock wobble.
 
I think another issue could be the rifle needs more bling.

Where is your:
- vertical grip
- NVG
- Thermal
- Side dot for close quarter combat (one on each side for "reliabilitah")
- Flashlight with 100 million lumens and strobe light
- at least one punisher logo and one American flag.
- QD attached sling
- flip scope caps and throw lever

Operator attire also matters:

- needs Murican flag bandana
- muscle shirt - because you need to show those guns while shooting your gun. Improves accuracy by preventing wind from forming small vortices around the sleeves which affect bolt operation and bullet flight (science), muscles make it flow.
- tight shorts. Can't trip using $300 rapey baggy shorts like Reptile.
- tactical boots
- 3 knives
- 1 flashlight
- 1 CCW with min 4 mags

I thought I looked buff in my tight t-shirt and my American flag speedo.
 
In my experience lapping the face of the upper makes negligible improvements on accuracy. But it does make moving a scope much easier as the lapped uppers/barrels point truer.

Consider using a shim and a heating the receiver for basicly a press fit.

This is a very interesting article.

 
No. Not yet. I’m not around this week and most of to look at it at all and I had the new barrel sent to NH.
 
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