Gave my Remington 870 a Cerakote facelift, Now my M&P Pro as well, Now Mossberg 500

Here are some quick family pics of my Mossy 500 done in Sniper Gray and De's Remington 870 and M&P Pro in Tactical Gray.

I wanted to cerakote mine because even though the blueing was really nice... it would rust unless I babied it and wiped it down constantly. Which REALLY bothered me. So I said F it... with cerakote I don't have to worry about babying the shotgun.

The paint job on mine isn't as nicely done as De's... when we did my shotty we were having issues with the paint gun as the paint wasn't coming out consistently [thinking] When De painted his a few days later the paint gun was behaving just fine. Hmm........ figures [rolleyes] [wink]

BEFORE:
IMG_3461.jpg


AFTER:
IMG_4600.jpg


IMG_4612.jpg


IMG_4608.jpg
 
Gonzo said:
How much do you want for a camo job on an AR? Seriously?
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If you can build a jeep you can paint a gun. I'm sure you have air tools laying aRound right?

I've never done camo before but I think this would be a bit different as the paint really doesn't flash dry. Maybe you need to do multiple bakings?

If you really want me to attempt on your gun I will...I just know you have some mechanical skills so you could probably do just as good a job.

Plus if I Susan gets pissed off that I'm baking another gun I'm gonna tell her it's your fault.
 
Underwhere said:
If you can build a jeep you can paint a gun. I'm sure you have air tools laying aRound right?

I've never done camo before but I think this would be a bit different as the paint really doesn't flash dry. Maybe you need to do multiple bakings?

If you really want me to attempt on your gun I will...I just know you have some mechanical skills so you could probably do just as good a job.

Plus if I Susan gets pissed off that I'm baking another gun I'm gonna tell her it's your fault.
Click to expand...

I'd love it. I have the skills, just not the time or patience. I'm currently in Japan, and when I get back I'll be stuck in family/holiday stuff till January, when I start travelling again. I just want ugly, brutal, and effective.

And as for blaming things on me with Susan, that was par for the course 20 years ago. Everything was my fault then. [rofl] Tell her it's payback. [laugh]
 
Gonzo said:
I'd love it. I have the skills, just not the time or patience. I'm currently in Japan, and when I get back I'll be stuck in family/holiday stuff till January, when I start travelling again. I just want ugly, brutal, and effective.

And as for blaming things on me with Susan, that was par for the course 20 years ago. Everything was my fault then. [rofl] Tell her it's payback. [laugh]
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Let me look into how to cerakote camo. What type?
 
Nice work Underwhere! I purchased what is probably the same kit from Brownells with intentions of Cera-koting my NES 1911, but haven't built up the courage to do it yet. Couple of questions for you:

-do you Cera-Kote just the external surfaces and just be careful to minimize overspray to the internal works? Or spray everything including rails and holes?

-If you masked holes and surfaces, what did you use? I assume that it was removed from the part after baking. Silicone plugs and kapton tape?

-What are the filters that came with the kit for? Sand-blast media?

Thanks,
Kevin
 
Kevin l said:
Nice work Underwhere! I purchased what is probably the same kit from Brownells with intentions of Cera-koting my NES 1911, but haven't built up the courage to do it yet. Couple of questions for you:

-do you Cera-Kote just the external surfaces and just be careful to minimize overspray to the internal works? Or spray everything including rails and holes?

-If you masked holes and surfaces, what did you use? I assume that it was removed from the part after baking. Silicone plugs and kapton tape?

-What are the filters that came with the kit for? Sand-blast media?

Thanks,
Kevin
Click to expand...

I didn't mask holes but you can if you want. The pins go in a little tighter now but that's fine with me. For the magwell, I masked off about 1/2 inch into the well so the bottom is still the same color but the rest of the inside of the magwell remains original.

You can spray the entire frame if you want. It's a little different on the M&P because the rails can be removed so nothing you spray is actually in contact with the slide.

For a 1911, I'm not sure. Maybe mask off the rails? The thing with Cerakote is that when it wears it's not supposed to chip off, it's just supposed to wear off.

The filters that come with it are for the paint, to make sure you don't get dirt or clumps in it that would clog the airbrush or airgun.

The sucky thing about masking is that I felt like I needed to remove the masking tape before baking. I'm not sure if you have to, but at 300 degrees I don't want the stuff catching fire. NIC industries does sell high temp masking tape so you can toss everything in the oven at one time.
 
Resurrecting an old one here..

I was thinking about doing my M&P OD green, did you have to blast the frame on yours? I don't have a spray brush setup either, are you aware of any good alternatives to the same methods required for the cerakote you used?
 
meth0d said:
Resurrecting an old one here..

I was thinking about doing my M&P OD green, did you have to blast the frame on yours? I don't have a spray brush setup either, are you aware of any good alternatives to the same methods required for the cerakote you used?
Click to expand...

Media blasting the frame is a requirement and you have to use a specific grit. The blasting creates surface at pretty much the exact "roughness" so that the cerakote will stick but not rub off.

As far as a brush goes, it needs to be applied with an airbrush. Cerakote goes on like sticky oil. It won't form back into itself to smooth out the surface like some paints will. If you use an actual paintbrush you will just leave lines everywhere and when you bake it, it'll show up.

I haven't heard of alternatives sorry.
 
meth0d said:
Hmmm, okay, back to the Google it seems then, haha.

Thanks for the follow up [grin]
Click to expand...

Basically it's hard to get around the "right" way of doing it. With this particular coating, I don't see many other ways to get around getting the right supplies (and I'm the type to try and make it work with whatever I have in my garage)
 
You baked it in an oven? Like a HOME oven? Doesn't that change the metal characteristics and alter the strength of the steel? I'm no metallurgist, but I'm pretty sure one should not mess with the heat treat process.
 
Coyote33 said:
You baked it in an oven? Like a HOME oven? Doesn't that change the metal characteristics and alter the strength of the steel? I'm no metallurgist, but I'm pretty sure one should not mess with the heat treat process.
Click to expand...

Bake-on finishes like Cerakote or GunKote cure at temperatures well below that needed to affect the heat-treat of the base metal. Most cure at around 300-350deg.
 
meth0d said:
Resurrecting an old one here..

I was thinking about doing my M&P OD green, did you have to blast the frame on yours? I don't have a spray brush setup either, are you aware of any good alternatives to the same methods required for the cerakote you used?
Click to expand...

They make some pretty cheap air brush kits that will run off a small aerosol can. If you go to Lauer's website they have the kit for $35. You can use that to apply the finish and then just bake it. Or Duracoat can also be used and doesn't require baking.
 
zerodown said:
They make some pretty cheap air brush kits that will run off a small aerosol can. If you go to Lauer's website they have the kit for $35. You can use that to apply the finish and then just bake it. Or Duracoat can also be used and doesn't require baking.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thank you! I'll take a look at their kits.
 

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