So I have a Streamlight TLR-1 on my nightstand handgun but I have several long guns that have never been accessorized due to my ignorance and laziness. The small potential for a COVID-19 disaster has motivated me to "prep" a couple of the rifles. I just did some research and ordered some slings, mounts, QD style attachments, etc but I'm struggling with the light options. I understand the remote pressure switch but I don't understand why some of the lights are the compact "all-in-one" form factor like the TLR and some are like regular flashlights held on with a mount. These would be for a Ruger PC9 with the Catalyst Arms Kit and an AR-15 with M-LOK handguard. Pros/cons of different styles? I'm leaning towards the Streamlight/Olight price range.
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Dumb Question on Long Gun Lights
- Thread starter mtnbiker26
- Start date
D
Deleted member 12999
The TLR-1 is really purpose built for a handgun. You can put one on a rifle, but I don't think it really has the 'throw' that I prefer on a rifle. Your rifle just becomes a handgun at night if you don't have a light that can reach out.
I run the Streamlight protac rail HLX on my guns. It's not the MOST effective, but it's better than a TLR 1
I run the Streamlight protac rail HLX on my guns. It's not the MOST effective, but it's better than a TLR 1
D
Deleted member 12999
You do not! Don’t run with lights! Safety first!
I totally run one! I also have tons of CLIPS for my Glock!
My advice is stay away from pressure switch set ups. Used them for a long time and they’re a PITA. I much prefer a constant on/off switch.
With pressure switches, I’ve had to maintain a light presence on bad guys many times in very dark areas waiting until I can get someone else to either cover or close in and get them secured. Surprising how quickly your finger/thumb starts to get tired holding that switch on, and then it starts to blink on and off in the dark while covering your subject if your thumb slips off the pressure pad.
Constant On/Off also allows you to drop and use your off hand for whatever is needed while still maintaining muzzle coverage on your threat. Whereas a pressure switch requires constant two hand hold.
With pressure switches, I’ve had to maintain a light presence on bad guys many times in very dark areas waiting until I can get someone else to either cover or close in and get them secured. Surprising how quickly your finger/thumb starts to get tired holding that switch on, and then it starts to blink on and off in the dark while covering your subject if your thumb slips off the pressure pad.
Constant On/Off also allows you to drop and use your off hand for whatever is needed while still maintaining muzzle coverage on your threat. Whereas a pressure switch requires constant two hand hold.
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Got a Surefire 618FA on the folding stock, extended mag tube 12 gauge 870 that I use for home defense. Works very well. Handles the shock of the recoil from the heaviest buckshot and slug loads without any trouble at all.
E.Stoner
NES Member
I am a big fan of the surefire switches that have a pressure pad and an on/off switch. I also prefer to have the tail caps with a clicky button and a plug, because wires and plugs can get jacked up and you can always fall back on the clicky switch.
fencer
NES Member
I have mixed feelings on weapon mounted lights. I have several, but it sure is a good way to announce your presence, and your direction of movement, while providing a target for an adversary. They also necessitate pointing a firearm at something or someone you want to illuminate.
So, I have set up flares on trip wires around my property...
So, I have set up flares on trip wires around my property...
They do require constant training just like everything else to help mitigate those issues. Common sense and clear thinking.
A good light will illuminate whoever or whatever you want to see just by lighting it up near the ground (at their feet) of the object. Plenty bright enough to shine it’s over throw onto the subject and make a good ID or see if their hands are free of weapons.
The surefire m900L or V have always worked well for me. Can be had on the cheaper side too. Lasted a deployment so good enough for me.
I have the Streamlight HLX on each of my rifles. They throw a good amount of light and you can run the tail cap or the pressure switch. Pressure switches have evolved over time. Now they perform both functions, the on/off pressure and constant on/off. The Streamlight switches are even programmable.
only complaint I have about the HLX is the size of the head. One of my rifles has a Pro Tac Rail Mount 2. Little less lumens, but it’s a little smaller and lighter.
only complaint I have about the HLX is the size of the head. One of my rifles has a Pro Tac Rail Mount 2. Little less lumens, but it’s a little smaller and lighter.
chris_1001
NES Member
You don’t have to use it.
Mixed reports over the years on this.
It’s a choice I have. It’s momentary and “on“. Or completely off. Ymmv
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AllaSnackbah
NES Member
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On a pcc you can get away with using a pistol light like an x300, on a rifle id get something made for a rifle, minimum 300 lumens, and something rugged, surefire is king, streamlight works, i wouldn't trust anything with a plastic housing.
Streamlight is just fine. Surefire is definitely the best but unless u plan on engaging hundreds of zombies, Russian & chineses & NK soldiers, Nazi werewolfs and Bernie Bros then there is no need to spend that outrageous money on a surefire.
allen-1
NES Member
I've got Inforce lights mounted on a couple of my ARs. I had a chance to play with them at a vendor/media event at my club and I liked them.
inforce-mil.com
WML White - INFORCE
inforce-mil.com
Surefire is A grade. But right now Modlight has them beaten. The throw on a modlite is just unreal. It's something like 59000 Candelas. Currently they are the best money can buy right now. If you like spending money or larping like me. Go modlight.
I get what your're saying but typically your white light would only be on while you're actively shooting and then turning it off and moving to another position once you're done. Also most weapon lights are bright enough to blind and disorient whoever you're shining it on. Nothing like 56K candela to the face in low light to make you temporarily blind.
Keep you finger off the trigger and the light off until you need it.
If things have come to the point of having to carry a rifle around, the last thing I'm concerned with is pointing it at someone.
Also, flares can start unwanted fires. I use Dakota Alert motion sensors, they're silent, don't alert the intruder and transmit for well over a mile.....well past line of sight. They can be set up to show progression of movement too and reset automatically so no need to expose yourself going out to change out a popped flare. Batteries last for months too.
The system pieces can be purchased separately and the receiver has a pair of relay contacts that close on alert. You could have them turn on a light, buzzer, siren, or anything else that needs to be electrically switched. They also transmit on the MURS frequencies so if you are away from your base receiver you can monitor on a portable two way radio.
I use this feature when walking out in the woods. I can also give a portable to a neighbor or a sentry if need be to maintain round the clock coverage in shifts......but we're not to that point yet.
The pictured base radio also transmits on all five MURS channels.
For weapon lights, I prefer on/off switch not momentary. Mounting momentary switch pads is a pain.
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I like weapon lights because they allow you to set up an ambush with a wall of light. You illuminate and identify the threat with a veil of light that cuts through other light sources.
Anything that gives me any kind of advantage I'll take.
I run a tlr1 on my HD ar, naturally actuates when I take my grips.
Powertac E5G4 kit is 50% off right now and if you use the promo code “godandguns” you get another %20 off. That is like $40 shipped. Tempting.
I have one of their flashlights and am very impressed. Lifetime guarantee too.
I have one of their flashlights and am very impressed. Lifetime guarantee too.
Whiskeywon
NES Member
That may be true, but the fact of the matter that they cost an additional 25% over surefire which is already a steep markup. I have one of each and they both run amazing. For the price of the Modlight you can buy a M600DF, respective mount and still have a little cash towards the switch. Though we aren't talking a significant difference like the step from Streamlight to Surefire in price.
A good pistol light (like an X300 or TLR-1) would be perfectly fine for most people on a carbine. Quite a few M4s and Mk18s have pistol lights on them. Just make sure you are comfortable with its switch-ology. It’ll handle the houses and yards of most people in New England. Get out west, and that changes.
Like cam, I’ve moved from pressure switches to well placed tailcaps/buttons. However, in addition to always on, I need momentary on. It’s important to be able to turn your beacon off quickly and easily.
Like cam, I’ve moved from pressure switches to well placed tailcaps/buttons. However, in addition to always on, I need momentary on. It’s important to be able to turn your beacon off quickly and easily.
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You can’t just walk around with them constantly on as you move around. That’s just stupid. You need to be selective with their engagement if you don’t want it to work against you as a beacon.
With a pistol, sure you can have a flashlight in your other hand, but for a rifle/carbine, you need it mounted. And as far as aiming it at something for positive ID, you’ll just have to live with that. Keep the safety on until you have that positive ID. The world isn’t perfect and that rule of “don’t point the gun at something you don’t intend to destroy” can only be exercised in its absolute form at the range. It’s impossible to obey that rule all the time in defensive situations.
Not to mention having to keep track of which finger is doing what. "Was it left finger trigger right finger light, or...?
![[mg]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/036.gif "Machine Gun [mg]")
"Oooh that's right. It's right finger trigger..." ![[rofl2]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/035.gif "ROFL2 [rofl2]")
On a serious note. I used to own a light that let you choose if the pressure switch acted like a momentary switch or a standard on off switch. There was a small switch on the light body that you set to whichever mode you wanted. I liked it set as an on off just so I didn't have to take my hand off the HG or VFG just to turn the light on. I haven't been in any situation using it involving humans, however it was damn nice for spotlighting the coyotes that were coming into my yard though. Popping that light on half a second before pulling the trigger would freeze them at just the right moment.
allen-1
NES Member
Not to mention having to keep track of which finger is doing what. "Was it left finger trigger right finger light, or...?
On a serious note. I used to own a light that let you choose if the pressure switch acted like a momentary switch or a standard on off switch. There was a small switch on the light body that you set to whichever mode you wanted. I liked it set as an on off just so I didn't have to take my hand off the HG or VFG just to turn the light on. I haven't been in any situation using it involving humans, however it was damn nice for spotlighting the coyotes that were coming into my yard though. Popping that light on half a second before pulling the trigger would freeze them at just the right moment.
The Inforce lights on my AR's have that "toggle" feature. There are two controls, a pushbutton switch on the tailcap, and a toggle switch on the side. With the toggle in one position, the pushbutton functions as ON/OFF; with the toggle in the other position, the pushbutton functions as momentary ON.
M60
NES Member
I guess that my feeling is, that if someone breaks in at 2am, they pretty much assume that you're there anyway. I like your flares and trip wire idea though.
