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Cleaning carbon deposits
- Thread starter BillO
- Start date
kevin9
NES Member
I've found cleaning carbon off the gas piston on my rifle requires letting it soak in brake cleaner fluid or M-Pro 7 for a while then scraping with a plastic implement (ex. spackle blade).
TY43215
NES Member
Hey Bill,
That Lead Away Cloth works pretty good on stainless and nickel plated guns, but don't use it on a blued gun.
I usually leave the rings, but if I feel the overwhelming urge to get it clean, I use MPro7 and a stainless brush.
That Lead Away Cloth works pretty good on stainless and nickel plated guns, but don't use it on a blued gun.
I usually leave the rings, but if I feel the overwhelming urge to get it clean, I use MPro7 and a stainless brush.
TY43215
NES Member
![[smile]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/001.gif "Smile [smile]")
I use this stuff, works pretty well, but is water based, so let it dry afterwards. Like other products, spray on, let sit, then scrape (I use a tooth pick)
http://www.slip2000.com/725.html
That usually loosens most stuff up, then I follow with LeadAway cloth. Smells like some sort of petrol. Wonder if dipping a cloth in gasoline wouldn't have the same effect.
http://www.slip2000.com/725.html
That usually loosens most stuff up, then I follow with LeadAway cloth. Smells like some sort of petrol. Wonder if dipping a cloth in gasoline wouldn't have the same effect.
Aside from aesthetics, is it really necessary to get rid of all
the burned-on deposits? I notice they seem to build up to a
point and then stop. The stuff that builds up around the
forcing cone area is always a bitch to remove, too. I just
try to get rid of any noticeable chunks of debris, etc. The
stuff on the cylinder face seems tough, too.
The stuff on the revolvers reminds me of the crud on an AR-15 bolt
tail, but its worse. Even on the AR I never bother with the
baked on stuff, just give it a gentle scraping and once over and
thats it. Seems like a lot of work for little functional gain.
-Mike
the burned-on deposits? I notice they seem to build up to a
point and then stop. The stuff that builds up around the
forcing cone area is always a bitch to remove, too. I just
try to get rid of any noticeable chunks of debris, etc. The
stuff on the cylinder face seems tough, too.
The stuff on the revolvers reminds me of the crud on an AR-15 bolt
tail, but its worse. Even on the AR I never bother with the
baked on stuff, just give it a gentle scraping and once over and
thats it. Seems like a lot of work for little functional gain.
-Mike
I leave the front of the cylinder alone too with the exception of a Hoppes cleaning. The part I wanted to clean were carbon deposits on the cylinder fluting that gets blackened in between the toe strap.
Anyway, I purchased some Kleen Bore patches, a Pro-Shot Products "Lead Cleen" gun cloth, and an Adco's E-Z Brite "Wonder Cloth" and did my own consumer assessment.
Pro-Shot's cloth and Adco's are identical. No doubt same supplier and packaged under different brand names. However, Pro-Shot's are $.50 cheaper. Kleen Bore patches seemed to work better. Maybe a greater chemical content; who knows. All easily removed the carbon and were able to get my revolvers spankin' clean. Thanks all.
Anyway, I purchased some Kleen Bore patches, a Pro-Shot Products "Lead Cleen" gun cloth, and an Adco's E-Z Brite "Wonder Cloth" and did my own consumer assessment.
Pro-Shot's cloth and Adco's are identical. No doubt same supplier and packaged under different brand names. However, Pro-Shot's are $.50 cheaper. Kleen Bore patches seemed to work better. Maybe a greater chemical content; who knows. All easily removed the carbon and were able to get my revolvers spankin' clean. Thanks all.
