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Car oil change
- Thread starter Echo 225
- Start date
SKumar
NES Member
Has anyone heard tried this or heard of anyone trying this?
Valvoline's claims are as follows:
"Restore Pistons to Factory Clean. The first and only motor oil that removes up to 100% of deposits – restoring your engine to run like new."
Holy shit that is a wild claim. 100% of deposits? Is the entire thing made of PEA or something? Even if it's 75% correct, I would be more than satisfied with that. This must be a product designed for all these GDI engines.
www.valvolineglobal.com
Valvoline's claims are as follows:
"Restore Pistons to Factory Clean. The first and only motor oil that removes up to 100% of deposits – restoring your engine to run like new."
Holy shit that is a wild claim. 100% of deposits? Is the entire thing made of PEA or something? Even if it's 75% correct, I would be more than satisfied with that. This must be a product designed for all these GDI engines.
Restore and Protect - Valvoline™ Global
From the moment it starts for the very first time, critical parts of your engine begin building up harmful deposits that are nearly impossible to reverse - until now. Valvoline Restore & Protect is the first and only motor oil that prevents future deposit formation and restores pistons to...
www.valvolineglobal.com
I'm not 100% sure, but I thought the problem with GDI engines is the deposits on the backside (and stem) of the valves.Has anyone heard tried this or heard of anyone trying this?
View attachment 864127
Valvoline's claims are as follows:
"Restore Pistons to Factory Clean. The first and only motor oil that removes up to 100% of deposits – restoring your engine to run like new."
Holy shit that is a wild claim. 100% of deposits? Is the entire thing made of PEA or something? Even if it's 75% correct, I would be more than satisfied with that. This must be a product designed for all these GDI engines.
Restore and Protect - Valvoline™ Global
From the moment it starts for the very first time, critical parts of your engine begin building up harmful deposits that are nearly impossible to reverse - until now. Valvoline Restore & Protect is the first and only motor oil that prevents future deposit formation and restores pistons to...
Valvoline just claims it cleans the pistons.
Next time I get into a high milage abused engine that needs replacing I will show you how little deposits are on the pistons.
As mentioned its the back side of the valves usually having problems these days. I dont see that many with issues theses days? The walnut blaster is collecting dust.
Theres plenty of detergents in fuel these days snd you have to buy the cheapest lowest quality fuel and have a poorly running engine to get excessive build up these days
mikelawtown
NES Member
Gawd that’s cheap
I had bud grab some last month for 38
rep308
NES Member
Drain pan, filter wrench, wrench and socket fitting drain plug, drain plug crush washer, container for used oil. I use ramps, rhino ramps at $80 and the other crap is maybe $100 depending on what you have. You need a flat surface, I did it on a side street for years. Watch YouTube and make it a habit to put the drain plug and crush washer on right away and fill right away. Check the oil level before starting, check for leaks on day 2 and check oil level day 2 before starting. Belt, suspenders, double check, just like reloading ammo.
You are already better than jippy lube because you have a brain.
SKumar
NES Member
Not a dumb question.
-I would get a 1.5-2 ton floor jack and a pair of jack stands. Something like this would be one and done and will last forever.
-oil tray to catch the falling oil (amazon or home depot for ~$20), or a small bucket you have laying around.
-simple socket wrench set which you probably already have. google oil change for your car to get specific socket sizes needed.
-5qt oil jug and oil filter should be ~$30 total
-a couple miller high life beers and bluetooth speaker helps too
Once you start your own oil changes, you'll be dumbfounded why you didn't do it sooner. Then you'll start doing other things like tire rotations, winter wheel swap, and eventually brakes. You'll save tons of $$ and know that your car is done your way.
All good points. Ramps are good for oil changes, but, it is always a good idea to have a nice jack and quality Jack stands because they are very versatile in the other things you can use them for in vehicle maintenance.
And watch YouTube videos of people changing oil on your make and model vehicle. For as absolute sh*t youtube has become, for dyi car stuff there is almost a guarantee that someone filmed an oil change on your specific vehicle.
HorizontalHunter
NES Member
Install a Fumoto valve on your first oil change and then you can just use a 3/8” hose to drain it into a jug for disposal. I tend to like old windshield washer fluid jugs or the gallon jugs the oil comes in.
Buy Fumoto® Valve Online | Replace Oil Drain Plug
Anyplace that sells oil is supposed to take back the used oil for recycling but some have limits and container requirements.
If you are going to change your oil check to see if your car/truck has any grease fittings that need to be greased as well and do them at the same time. Most cars don’t have grease fittings anymore. My truck only has two.
Keep your receipts with the mileage on them for warranty purposes if it applies to you.
Buy Fumoto® Valve Online | Replace Oil Drain Plug
Anyplace that sells oil is supposed to take back the used oil for recycling but some have limits and container requirements.
If you are going to change your oil check to see if your car/truck has any grease fittings that need to be greased as well and do them at the same time. Most cars don’t have grease fittings anymore. My truck only has two.
Keep your receipts with the mileage on them for warranty purposes if it applies to you.
Thank you! I might have access to some of the stuff the jack stands/oil pan/etc at work. Bj's Warehouse seems to have similar prices to Costco, so I can purchase that stuff there.
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I did the oil the other day. The previous change I had a mechanic do it while it was in the shop and the f***ing a**h*** put the wrong filter on and crank it way too tight.
Oil look like shit
Manual says 8 1/2 quarts, but there was a service letter downgrading it to 8 quarts because of a different filter they’re currently using. I warmed it up drain the oil. I always put an 8 quarts, put in 8 quarts didn’t read on the stick so I had another half of quart was about halfway up the stick so I had another half a quart, total of 9 quarts …
It’s not leaking and I didn’t spill any no idea why it took an extra quart but it’s probably not gonna hurt anything. I was racking my brain. I’ve checked it like 12 times and I don’t know it’s at the full line.
Oil look like shit
Manual says 8 1/2 quarts, but there was a service letter downgrading it to 8 quarts because of a different filter they’re currently using. I warmed it up drain the oil. I always put an 8 quarts, put in 8 quarts didn’t read on the stick so I had another half of quart was about halfway up the stick so I had another half a quart, total of 9 quarts …
It’s not leaking and I didn’t spill any no idea why it took an extra quart but it’s probably not gonna hurt anything. I was racking my brain. I’ve checked it like 12 times and I don’t know it’s at the full line.
SKumar
NES Member
I recently discovered the importance of greasing suspension joints and I couldn't find those grease nipples anywhere. I have a tiny occasional squeak and I'm 99% sure one of joints is dry. Probably a ball joint or swaybar end link.
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If it were me, I would listen to Manuel only if he wrote the manual that came with your car.
Stupid question. Did you run it for a little while, let it settle and then check the level just to get the oil circulated throughout before adding more?
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I knew I was overdue for the oil change. I checked it before the snow looked brand new had the right amount wasn’t too worried about it. It was the bypass pressure of the filter used by the previous mechanic completely f***ing wrong so It basically wasn’t even filtering..
It drives me nuts. It’s called an oil filter removal tool you don’t f***ing tighten the filter with that. You do it by hand even with the removal tool the crappy one that I had I was tearing a filter apart I might as well just stuff the screwdriver through it.
I get if you don’t know any better, but if you’re a mechanic, and you don’t understand the basics of putting on an oil filter, you got something wrong in your mind
At least with the GMC, you have an actual oil pressure gauge as opposed to just a light
HorizontalHunter
NES Member
They do make needle injectors so that you can inject grease through the rubber cup. They make a hole in the grease cup so I’m not a big fan but if you got a dry ball joint it will wear a lot faster anyway so you don’t have much to lose. You just got to find the bushing or joint first.
mikelawtown
NES Member
What model / year vehicle?
rep308
NES Member
I've always been a bit nervious about these valves with no good reason. I swapped out my factory oil drain plug with a magnetic one to catch or see any metal floating around. Buy OEM crush washers and use a new one every time. This is my #1 complaint against the quick change places, they never change the crush washer.
Oh and if you want to really go down the rabbit hole, get your oil analyzed and see what is going on:
Blackstone Laboratories Blackstone Laboratories
Learn what's going on in your engine with oil analysis. Our free kits are easy to use and we explain the results in plain English!
www.blackstone-labs.com
and if you are nut like me you research into oil, what is going on:
and yes I studies Chem E so I find this stuff interesting
2017 Ford Taurus
Have you still been seeing issues with build up on valves in direct injection motors?
Got any suggestions for routine maintenance regarding that?
HorizontalHunter
NES Member
A lot of people run catch cans on the PVC return lines in the cars with direct injection.
Aluminum Oil Catch Can - Large
mikelawtown
NES Member
Couldn’t get any easier there should be no splash shield covering your underneath. Your filter is easy accessible.
Face of valves is rarely a problem. It is the back of the valves that get buildups and restrict air intake. But unless it is severe, I wouldnt bother. And identifying this problem is... not easy as you cant just look there and see the buildup and you have to have a really fine tuned senses to feel the engine getting asthmatic at the top end... and that symptom can be due to many things so that is that...
If you think your valves are very dirty - gеt a can of Seafoam. Put it in a sprayer bottle. Open air box and remove air filter and map/maf sensors if possible (Seafoam will not hurt those sensors, but just to be sure). On hot engine run at 3000-4000 rpms and spray the Seafoam in the intake. Shut off engine and let it soak for 15 minutes or so. Do it again.
But again- I personally wouldnt bother...
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