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Barrel question for Ruger 10/22

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Just how hard should that barrel be seated in? This barrel is stuck in hard, and completely unremovable once I take the metal piece serving as a stop keeping the barrel on the receiver. I'd like to take it off so I don't have to clean the barrel through the muzzle and potentially damage the crown.

Since I can't pull it apart, what can I use to remove the receiver without breaking it? Or, should I sit back and say... it's a 10/22, at least I'm cleaning it?
 
hrrmm... are stock 10/22 barrels threaded into the receiver? i know some aftermarket barrels thread.....
i've never taken the things THAT far apart because it'll change the point of impact and who wants to spend all that time re-sighting the thing in? bah...

i've never removed the barrels from any of mine... but here are some options (some i've gone with) that may or may not work for you..

1) don't worry about the crown, it's a cheapo 22
2) use a bore snake (pain in the ass, "cleans in 10 seconds" yah.. but it takes 20 minutes to get the damned weight down the barrel...)
3) modify the receiver with a cleaning hole... i've seen online some people drill a hole through the back of the receiver so they can run a rod through from chamber to muzzle as god intended...
4) ???
5) profit!

yeh, i detail the FCG and bolt when they get nasty.... i'll put a rod down the barrel (muzzle end) put a patch on at the receiver end, then pull it through that way..... YMMV
 
Just how hard should that barrel be seated in? This barrel is stuck in hard, and completely unremovable once I take the metal piece serving as a stop keeping the barrel on the receiver. I'd like to take it off so I don't have to clean the barrel through the muzzle and potentially damage the crown.

Try hitting it with some Kroil and let it sit overnight.

Or, should I sit back and say... it's a 10/22, at least I'm cleaning it?

This, really.

3) modify the receiver with a cleaning hole... i've seen online some people drill a hole through the back of the receiver so they can run a rod through from chamber to muzzle as god intended...YMMV

That's what I did with mine.
 
I don't think it's threaded, there's an odd wedge that a small block keeps in place with two long allen headed bolts.

I'll stop worrying about it then. I didn't really think through the fact that I'd have to resight the thing after barrel removal.

Thanks.
 
What LoginName said. If you're actually cleaning your 10/22 you're probably ahead of the curve. I usually just run a boresnake through a couple of times and it's fine. I would definitely NOT advise removing the barrel for cleaning.

I've heard good things about the hole-in-the-receiver mod (you can even buy a jig to make sure the hole is located perfectly. You could also just buy a different type of cleaning kit a la Otis with a coated cable that you could pull through breech-to-muzzle.
 
I pulled the stock barrel out of mine by putting the receiver in a vice (with some padding) and pulling like hell on the barrel. It's not threaded, just pressed in and the v-block keeps it in place.

I put a Whistle Pig Barrel on in place of the stock barrel, I wouldn't do it just to clean it, a bore snake does the trick for me.
 
The barrel on the 10/22 is usually a slip fit and held in place with 2 cap screws and a wedge. Try using a hair dryer or another heat source on the receiver. It's aluminium and should expand enough to get the barrel out. If your trying to get the barrel off to clean it don't do it unless you got a torque wrench to put it back in the receiver so the sights line up correctly. My first 22 was a 10/22 and took the barrel to clean it and it took me hours to tighten down the screws so it shot straight again.
 
There are a few threads over at rimfirecentral.com about this. Like Highlander said, a little heat on the receiver helps. They can be stuck pretty good.

Factory front and rear sights are on the barrel so they shouldn't come out of alignment with removal. A scope might need some adjustment and the Tech Sights with the rear on the frame and the front on the barrel WILL need adjusting.

I don't think you really need a torque wrench to put the barrel back on, although it probably wouldn't hurt. No matter how I tightened the barrel screws down my barrel always went back to the same spot--twisted past TDC right. Subsequently I had to shim my barrel to get the Tech Sights to line up correctly.
 
There are a few threads over at rimfirecentral.com about this. Like Highlander said, a little heat on the receiver helps. They can be stuck pretty good.

Factory front and rear sights are on the barrel so they shouldn't come out of alignment with removal. A scope might need some adjustment and the Tech Sights with the rear on the frame and the front on the barrel WILL need adjusting.

I don't think you really need a torque wrench to put the barrel back on, although it probably wouldn't hurt. No matter how I tightened the barrel screws down my barrel always went back to the same spot--twisted past TDC right. Subsequently I had to shim my barrel to get the Tech Sights to line up correctly.
That's what I meant but couldn't find the right words
 
its a .22

cleaning them often is NOT a good idea if you'd like to retain accuracy. its a simple fact that they shoot better once they're well fouled with whatever ammo you shoot through it. I've got close to 4500 rounds through my CLE .22 upper for my AR15, ~700 were Wolf match target, the rest CCI standard velocity.

it takes 30-50 rounds through the barrel to get it settled back in if I change ammo.

it's over 200 if I clean it down to bare metal. and this is shooting @ 100yards (which is arguably the "reasonable" max effective distance...can you make hits further, yes, but I'm shooting for 10shot subMOA groups)


brakleen / kroil / hoppes / whatever you'd like for the bolt/FCG. keep the breech face and chamber clean. beyond that, a bore snake to pull out the "crud" is as far as you should need to take it.
 
On the off chance you do clean it, simply use a bore snake. Absolutlely no reason to remove the barrel for cleaning. If the barrel absolutely must be removed (change barrel is only reason really) do the opposing heat method or there is a device that presses the barrel out of the receiver.
 
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