-
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
-
Be sure to enter the NES/MFS May Giveaway ***Canik METE SFX***
AR Bolt Carrier Stuck
- Thread starter turbo89
- Start date
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2009
- Messages
- 16,367
- Likes
- 4,835
Looks like that did a number on your extractor.
- - - Updated - - -
Field gauge is useless. Get a proper set of go / no-go gauges if you're going to be mixing bolts and barrels from different companies. (Especially bargain basement ones.)
xtry51
NES Member
Buy a 3/16 steel rod from Lowes and bang it out. The rod will go all the way into the shell and is much softer than your barrel.
I would ditch that bolt and carrier. I've seen almost the exact thing happen at a rifle course to someone else's gun. It was a brass case and the gun (a very nice LMT I believe) had never seen a steel cased round.
These things happen. Personally I'd try to no completely mangle the case when removing it so you can inspect it. Also personally I'd get a new BCG and inspect everything with go/no go.
I would ditch that bolt and carrier. I've seen almost the exact thing happen at a rifle course to someone else's gun. It was a brass case and the gun (a very nice LMT I believe) had never seen a steel cased round.
These things happen. Personally I'd try to no completely mangle the case when removing it so you can inspect it. Also personally I'd get a new BCG and inspect everything with go/no go.
Fixxah
NES Member
Try turning the bolt with needlenose pliers while tapping the bolt carrier with a small plastic mallet. Baby steps.
-Proud to be dad every day, a licensed plumber most days, and wish I was a shoemaker on others.
-Proud to be dad every day, a licensed plumber most days, and wish I was a shoemaker on others.
ntomsw
Banned
Definitely get a set of go/no go gauges.
Another member had bad headspace in his ESS barrel.
I have had zero issues with mine. It's the FDE AR in my avatar.
For like $100, it's worth the piece of mind.
Another member had bad headspace in his ESS barrel.
I have had zero issues with mine. It's the FDE AR in my avatar.
For like $100, it's worth the piece of mind.
Yea, a set of gauges is on the list... I used what a friend had and some judicious use of multiple dummy rounds/brass inspections.
I'll take the BCG apart tomorrow and inspect for damage. I'll probably re-check head space.... but it cycled 100 rounds of brass cased and plated steel without issue, I'm certainly leaning towards an ammo issue. Further inspection will tell.
I'll take the BCG apart tomorrow and inspect for damage. I'll probably re-check head space.... but it cycled 100 rounds of brass cased and plated steel without issue, I'm certainly leaning towards an ammo issue. Further inspection will tell.
xtry51
NES Member
Just saying a gun that jams on the fourth mag of ammo is not a reliable gun. I wouldn't be betting my life on that one.
100 rounds is not enough to claim a rifle is not defective in some manner.
100 rounds is not enough to claim a rifle is not defective in some manner.
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2009
- Messages
- 16,367
- Likes
- 4,835
May have just been an out of spec case (probably the most likely thing given the crap ammo,) but you won't know for sure until you check. If you're ever near Malden I can check it for you.
Keep in mind that most commercial ammo is usually sized on the low side of the spec. If you got a round that was on the high side and have too little headspace the bolt will jam that round into the chamber. Add a steel case into that mix and you could jam one in pretty good.
Last edited:
Did you clean the chamber before shooting? I find the anti corrosion stuff applied by manufactures is anything but lube.
I put over 3000 rounds of steel case ammo through my frankenAR biuld of used and Bagain parts with out a hitch as does my stag H2. The frankenAR found a new home and I'm sure it gets less care than I gave it. Still going.
I have had jams. My rock river jammed up tight as a frogs as. When finally getting it free a primer found its way into the upper and a slither of brass was jammed up between the bcg and upper! Friggen night mare.
I put over 3000 rounds of steel case ammo through my frankenAR biuld of used and Bagain parts with out a hitch as does my stag H2. The frankenAR found a new home and I'm sure it gets less care than I gave it. Still going.
I have had jams. My rock river jammed up tight as a frogs as. When finally getting it free a primer found its way into the upper and a slither of brass was jammed up between the bcg and upper! Friggen night mare.
OK, I got the stuck casing out:
I inspected the ejector and it looks like it's in pretty good shape:
While disassembling the ejector assembly I noticed some plastic snubber in the ejector spring (shown in picture with red arrow). Has anyone seen one of these? I checked my other AR, which didn't have one, and since this BCG's ejector seemed "tight" I removed the snubber. It now feels similar to my other AR's.
I inspected the ejector and it looks like it's in pretty good shape:
While disassembling the ejector assembly I noticed some plastic snubber in the ejector spring (shown in picture with red arrow). Has anyone seen one of these? I checked my other AR, which didn't have one, and since this BCG's ejector seemed "tight" I removed the snubber. It now feels similar to my other AR's.
I had a similar problem with two DPMS barrels. After about thirty or forty rounds when the barrel heated up, a case would get stuck in the chamber (these were brass). I used a rubber mallet on the charging handle to retract the BCG which ripped a piece of the case rim off, leaving the case in the barrel. I then used a brass rod to drive the case out.
My problem was caused by horrible quality control on the part of DPMS. The short term solution was to polish the chambers of these useless barrels. After a few hours of work the problem was solved. Neither barrel has had a failure since then. The long term solution is to NEVER BUY ANOTHER DPMS BARREL. Sorry for the shouting, but I just had to get it off of my chest. Those jerks really tick me off. I have owned three DPMS barrels and all were junk.
My problem was caused by horrible quality control on the part of DPMS. The short term solution was to polish the chambers of these useless barrels. After a few hours of work the problem was solved. Neither barrel has had a failure since then. The long term solution is to NEVER BUY ANOTHER DPMS BARREL. Sorry for the shouting, but I just had to get it off of my chest. Those jerks really tick me off. I have owned three DPMS barrels and all were junk.
What does your brass look like before you tried the steel case. The blotchyness on the case seems like some sort of fouling be it brass or a "wet oil" chamber? What chamber is your rifle cut for 223/Nato/wylde? We had a member with a custom AR that was giving him fits with jams. ....once he actually let people take a look at it every one spotted the 223rem chamber stamp on the barrel...he was useing XM855. Once he started reloading and resized his brass useing the rcbs precision mic did his problems vanish.
It's funny you ask about the brass. I noticed this too and went to re-check some of the brass I took from the range. The brass didn't have any signs of blotchyness on the case sides, but a few looked had some witness marks from where the ejector contacts the case. One of the pieces had a missing primer, but I have no way of telling if it's one of mine, or one of the guys that were shooting ARs around me.
Edit: it's chambered in Wylde.
Last edited:
Wylde chamber you should be good. As for taking a look it at it. Every time he came with the AR it would jam up. He then would toss his gun in his case and scurry out of there. In anger, embarrassment or frustration ? Finally one time the range master happened to see that it did not fire on the next jam. So he was asked to make the rifle safe before leaving. Once a few of us all got huddled around him we noticed the 223 rem stamp on the barrel. Since he has switched to his reloads and not m193 or 855 he has had 0 issues, well except for his bad magazines....you might find that the primer left a slither of brass somewhere it was not supposed to be. Also might want to check head space and be certain its ok. here is a chart with a idea of how wide of a difference there can be in the different chamberings for 223 rem. These are the reamer specs. Take it as "light" info as every reamer manufacture and use effects the total dimensions. http://ar15barrels.com/data/223-556.pdf
I dont have a wylde go guage PTG Headspace Go Gage 223 Wylde but it would be a good idea to get one or find some one who does....and clean the begeeze out the chamber and barrel and shoot it dry. If you have any warranty issues visit that option first. Depending on your comfort level I have "polished"a few chambers with a chamber brush wrapped in a cleaner patch with rem bore brite or turtle was chrome polish.....on my not so nice guns.
If you purchased the barrel by its self it may need to be finish reamed ?
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2011
- Messages
- 2,234
- Likes
- 365
Add to the list:
steel will sometimes expand (as does brass), but sometimes wont shrink down quickly enough causing this...get used to it or try different brands of steel cased and find one that wont do that.
It happens with junk ammo on occasion, to some more often than others. It's normally not that hard for me to fix...Wooden dowel and light taps down the barrel works every time. I lose 5 mins shooting. The price of spending less on ammo, but worth it to me.
Last edited:
SteelCasedProblems
my thoughts on steel cased ammo in a AR. All but the 223 remington MATCH chambered rifles should function fine with steel cased 223 remington ammo. If not there is something wrong with the rifle. IMHO
Now ammunition labeled as 5.56 NATO or m193/m855 or any other military ammo should be shot in a Wylde or Nato chambered rifle only IMHO.
I only exclude the 223 "match" chambered or the other "specialty" chamberings as you will have dies set up to resize the brass to the particular chamber. Unlike the more universal or standard chamberings like 223 rem, 5.56nato,wylde...just my thoughts...
Now ammunition labeled as 5.56 NATO or m193/m855 or any other military ammo should be shot in a Wylde or Nato chambered rifle only IMHO.
I only exclude the 223 "match" chambered or the other "specialty" chamberings as you will have dies set up to resize the brass to the particular chamber. Unlike the more universal or standard chamberings like 223 rem, 5.56nato,wylde...just my thoughts...
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2011
- Messages
- 2,234
- Likes
- 365
Nah, I disagree on this one. There are too many things that can go wrong with steel cased ammo in general that will always point to it being directly related to the round itself and not a broken rifle 9/10 times.
Another thing to consider is that some barrels will have far tighter tolerances than others...the fact that steel dosnt retract from the heat generated when firing round (as well as brass does) can lead to extraction problems.
Last edited:
Dream to Dream
NES Member
Field gauges are often recommended, even by Brownells. May I ask why you feel they are useless compared to a set of go / no-go gauges?
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2009
- Messages
- 16,367
- Likes
- 4,835
Because if a new build closes on a no-go gauge it's out of spec and needs to be fixed. Field gauges are for antiques and old mil-surps, not new builds.
http://www.thecmp.org/Sales/askarmorerheadspace.htm
Last edited:
Dream to Dream
NES Member
Thanks for the link.
I am surprised that Brownells would only suggest using a field gauge when checking headspace on an AR build, especially if they can sell a $70 gauge set instead of a single $23 gauge.
Edit to add: If you check headspace on an AR and find that the bolt will close on a no-go gauge, I assume you would just scrap the out-of-spec part instead of trying to stretch further service life from it?
I am surprised that Brownells would only suggest using a field gauge when checking headspace on an AR build, especially if they can sell a $70 gauge set instead of a single $23 gauge.
Edit to add: If you check headspace on an AR and find that the bolt will close on a no-go gauge, I assume you would just scrap the out-of-spec part instead of trying to stretch further service life from it?
Last edited:
here is a link to an awesome tool that is not cheap, but may be an alternative to junking the barrel. if you find that the chamber is too tight.
Michiguns Ltd. - AR-15 Tools and Accessories
the reamer tool.
Michiguns Ltd. - AR-15 Tools and Accessories
the reamer tool.
Dream to Dream
NES Member
Brownells.com - Checking the Headspace and Installing the Ejector
This is a .pdf of one of their instruction videos.
Curiously, though they mention that if "the headspace on a rifle is insufficient, then excessive chamber pressures can develop and possibly damage the rifle or cause injury or death," they do not actually walk you through the procedure of checking minimum headspace.
I have not checked any further vidoes to see if they suggest using go / no-go gauges at any point, but I can't imagine they would fail to include that step in this video if they were going to have the viewer perform that test.
This is a .pdf of one of their instruction videos.
Curiously, though they mention that if "the headspace on a rifle is insufficient, then excessive chamber pressures can develop and possibly damage the rifle or cause injury or death," they do not actually walk you through the procedure of checking minimum headspace.
I have not checked any further vidoes to see if they suggest using go / no-go gauges at any point, but I can't imagine they would fail to include that step in this video if they were going to have the viewer perform that test.
Last edited:
