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A few notes about your new cmp garand.

mac1911

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So my friend called last night he finally got his cmp service grade M1 SA. He called because on shot 10 it stopped cycling. Asked him to check gas plug. Sure enough it was very loose. Which reminded me of recent events at the last cmp clinic.
Although cmp has a great deal on M1s they are not 100% perfect or ready to shoot from the case.
1. At the minimum you need to field strip clean and lube. Here a link that will give you all the info you need to get your M1 ready to go
http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armorers-corner/
If you don't take the time to detail strip clean and lube at least field strip clean and lube.
Make sure you check a few small items also to keep from having problems as some will learn as I did the hard way.
A M10 combo tool for your M1 is a decent little tool to have to keep your M1
http://www.fulton-armory.com/combotoolm10.aspx
1. Make sure you gas cylinder lock screw valve is tight. A 1/4" drive 4" extension with a 1/4 drive breaker bar works well.
2. Make sure your front sight screw is tight, allen wrench
3. Make sure your rear sight is tight: Large screw on left knob
4. For anything but a special make sure your op rod spring is in good condition and in one piece.
ADDED NOTE A CMP special should also be checked from end to end for loose screws, ect ect.
CMP customer service will take care of any problems in the past I have either been sent replacement parts or was able to talk to someone and walk me through it.
Now I suggest a detail strip/clean/lube. While your there take the time to fill out a data sheet to your best ability found below.

http://usriflecal30m1.com/DataSheets/Create.aspx

Now get them lubed up and get out to a CMP clinic/match/shoot

Pm any questions
 
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As mac1911 states, not even a Special will be immune to loose parts. I stripped and lubed my special, ran it through all the tilt tests (aok), tightened the gas plug, etc. Shot a few rounds at the range- no problema.

At the as-issued match last Sunday, I had serious problems sighting in. I could not get on target first 4 of 5 sighters [shocked]. RSO noticed my rear sight was loose enough to be dropping. A bit embarrassing to be kicking up dust on the berm in front of the targets. Once sights were tightened I was good to go.

I was still sighting in while shooting for record, but salvaged 87/100 first 10 shots and a 93/100 1X for the next ten. Choked in rapid fire- too slow, my bad. Shot a 90/100 1X offhand (standing), which Is good for me. All in all, except for the loose sights the Special seems to be a good shooter.
 
I would recommend that on any older firearm. Never a bad thing to get to know your old firearm in case it malfunctions. It makes it easier to figure out whats acting up if you actually see the parts. Good thing about Garands are youtube videos. Any novice can do a complete strip down without having to be extremely knowledgeable.
 
I received my special and field stripped it. Very surprised at how hard it was to open up the trigger guard and even worse to close it. I watched videos of people just using their fingers to open and close (which I could do when not in the stock), but I needed to use a quick grip clamp to reassemble. Is this common?
 
I received my special and field stripped it. Very surprised at how hard it was to open up the trigger guard and even worse to close it. I watched videos of people just using their fingers to open and close (which I could do when not in the stock), but I needed to use a quick grip clamp to reassemble. Is this common?

My special locks up pretty tight, but not to the point I need tools. I usually only strip it once a year though. I want to keep it as tight as I can.
There are instructions on the CMP forum for fitting the stock to cure your problem. I might be tempted to keep it the way it is.
If there is a fitment problem look in other ares on the stock for rubbing also.
 
They used to close new ones rolling off the line with a mallet. It will loosen with time and use.
 
I'm not entirely sure if it was a true slam fire or just operator error with the trigger, but I had a surprise double-tap last weekend when shooting off sandbags. Worked great the weekend before at the match (once sights tightened), but maybe time to clean bolt and firing pin, etc. I read that some M1's might sneak out of CMP with some cosmoline or other gunk that could jam the firing pin a little and cause a slam fire. Not verified info, but always a good idea to make sure this stuff is clean and free. Guess they are not kidding regarding their disclaimer that their M1's should be thoroughly checked out prior to going into service.
 
were you using milsurp or commercial ammo? If you look at a round after you chamber it and before you fire, you'll typically see a dent in the primer. Not a big deal unless you have sensitive primers (match or some commercial).
 
HXP, my mixed headstamp plinking ammo. Didn't think to check for a dented primer, but will in the future. Thanks!

It was my kid's turn to be (supposed to be) spotting for me. He suddenly woke up, "What was that???" [shocked]
 
HXP, my mixed headstamp plinking ammo. Didn't think to check for a dented primer, but will in the future. Thanks!

It was my kid's turn to be (supposed to be) spotting for me. He suddenly woke up, "What was that???" [shocked]

I have had the "double" happen to me. I bet a few doughnuts it was more of milking the trigger.
I'm no gun Smith but a slam fire to me is a general term that can mean different things.
1. Slam Fire- condition of the round being ignited before the bolt locks completely or out battery detonation which is not good and will give you a Much bigger surprise than a "double"
2. Slam Fire- on where for what ever mechanical reason the hammer releases discharging the firearm.

If you "milk" the trigger ? I don't have a real good definition of that but I can tell you from my episodes my trigger control was not as sharp as it should have been.
Basically you don't keep the trigger set to the rear and when the gun goes from rearward momentum to the forward shift your finger is in the way. I make a conscious effort to make sure I keep my finger/trigger in the full rear position until the rifle comes back to rest then I release my finger u.til I hear the disconector set or "click". This method also helps me smooth out my rapid fire stage and keeps me from rushing the shot.
 
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If you "milk" the trigger ? I don't have a real good definition of that but I can tell you from my episodes my trigger control was not as sharp as it should have been.
Basically you don't keep the trigger set to the rear and when the gun goes from rearward momentum to the forward shift your finger is in the way. I make a conscious effort to make sure I keep my finger/trigger in the full rear position until the rifle comes back to rest then I release my finger u.til I hear the disconector set or "click". This method also helps me smooth out my rapid fire stage and keeps me from rushing the shot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBQrtzSdVDo
 
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