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Well I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on a 550b tonight.
What I plan on ordering:
1. 550b with .223 conversion kit
2. 40S&W shell plate with pins for .40 and 9mm
3. 38+357 shell plate (uses the same pins as the 40 I guess)
4. 3 extra tool heads
With a mil discount I am looking at about 550 for all this shipped. How does that sound? I currently only have dies for .40, .38, .223, and 30-06 (going to continue to use the single stage for). The reason I am not getting the powder dies for the other rounds is that I want to continue to use my lee auto-disk for handgun rounds because it works awesome, and I can just leave it topped off with unique, and I want to set up the dillon powder measure with the WC844 I have. Is there anything I'm forgetting, or anything I should absolutely throw on the order?
Mike
I've got all the dies I need for now based off what I shoot. I have an agreement with some friends that if they buy the dies and raw materials for whatever calibers they want, I'll "work off" the first XX rounds (in exchange for the dies).
So should I be getting one extra primer pick-up tube, 4, 10? How many primers does each one hold?
Thanks,
Mike
I have lee carbide pistol dies. I can't see why they wouldn't work. I am just going to use my flare/powder drop die as I do do on the single stage with the auto-disk. I don't have any brand loyalty, but I can't say anything bad about any of the mainly Lee stuff I started out with. I also have the deluxe rifle sets. I am thinking of just forgoing the neck sizing die (I guess you can either use one or the other, I had been doing both). I also figured the average the case seems to grow about 5 thousandths of an inch after sizing, so I am going to set my trimmer 5 thousandths smaller than I want the cases before running them through.
I MAY need the adapter to raise the autodisk a little higher if I have issues with it interfering with the other dies. I see NO reason why it wouldn't work.
Mike
Spent some time on my 550B last night finishing off a batch of .45, then did the caliber conversion to 9mm in about 5 minutes. Pumped out a couple test loads for tonight on some new 124's I got.
The only real problem I have had is the primer not feeding properly. It has brought me to a dead stop on a couple occasions. It can be frustrating when it happens because it will just start to happen kind of out of no where. I have found the best way to correct it (although a pain) is to pull the tube and make sure the tip is still in fair condition (replace tip if need be) put back together and I am up and running again. Always make sure your primer feeding tube is actually properly inserted into the primer tube carrier as that has caused feeding problems also.
Other then the above my machine has been rock solid. The primer feeding issue has happened 3x in the course of about 5 years.
I've got all the dies I need for now based off what I shoot. I have an agreement with some friends that if they buy the dies and raw materials for whatever calibers they want, I'll "work off" the first XX rounds (in exchange for the dies).
So should I be getting one extra primer pick-up tube, 4, 10? How many primers does each one hold?
Thanks,
Mike
Reloading for other people is an extremely risky practice. You could lose everything you own.
crazymjb said:I'm not talking about getting into it as a business, I have some friends who help me out with it now, I said if they want to buy the stuff for their calibers and sit in on it with me, they are welcome to... I'm not just going to sell reloads to acquaintances, I don't want to deal with that.
How do you determine a primer feed problem, you just have un-primed rounds coming out?
Mike
Is the primer bar that reciprocating bar I keep seeing in the videos underneath the tube?
I use graphite under the primer bar to add some slipperiness without using an oil that will catch debris.
dustoff22 said:Second the graphite. I also have my compressor on standby to occasionally blow that area out.
Because I already have charges figured out on the Lee and I can keep the lee loaded with unique and use my WC844 on the dillon. One less thing to have to change over. I don't have a single bad thing to say about the Lee either. What makes the dillon superior if the lee dumps consistent charges and has run perfectly?
Mike
My Dillon will throw within .1 of a grain with all the powders I use for reloading. And since it's designed to work with the 550/650 presses there's no need to jury rig something to work.
Thats cool, and so will my auto disk. And I'm not jerry-rigging anything, it just sits on top of my powder through expanding die. Do you work for dillon? You sound like the rep who told me I can use my dies but they wont be as good as theirs. I don't see how dies could work any better. Same with the powder measure... I've probably thrown thousands of charges by now and its never had a problem, its also wicked easy to get back to a previous loading. Did I mention this way I can keep my dillon measure full of the powder for .223 and keep the other measure loaded with unique?
Mike
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
I don't work for Dillon, but have heard and know people that have nothing but grief trying to get Lee powder measures to dispense powder with a reasonable consistency. In the 40+ years I've been reloading I've had one Lee product and that was the basic Lee Loader that used a mallet/hammer to resize and prime cases. Of the equipment I have now it's either RCBS,Redding or Dillon.
To be fair, Dillon dies (especially sizing dies) do work REALLY well in progressive presses. They have a huge lead-in to help guide the cases into the die body, and you can remove the seaters for cleaning without taking the body itself off of the toolhead. For pistol calibers I use Dillon dies on my Hornady L-N-L. (I like Forester for the rifle stuff because they seem to be a bit more consistent.)
I'm not a huge fan of the Dillon powder measures. They work OK will ball powders but I had a hard time with stick powders. (I use Reloader-15 in my .223 stuff and it would bridge like crazy.) When I had a 550 I used a Hornady measure for rifle stuff.
There are tons of different brands and combos that you can put together. I've had blue presses with red parts and red presses with blue parts. I say use the best of everything, load lots of ammo, and go shooting.
Bob J said:That's interesting..... Did you mount the Hornady on or off the press? I am loading H1000 in the 338 and it's a pain to get to meter well on my dillon..... If on the press were there any issues that I should be aware of with setup or use if I go with the Hornady?