how many of you 38/357 reloaders use one set of dies? or do you have a dedicated 357 and a dedicated 38 set?
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38/357 dies
- Thread starter atracksler
- Start date
Using standard dies, (7/8x14 thread) that *should* mean 1.4 turns in or out to convert between .38 and .357.
Do you find that's true, or are there more factors that make it so you have to trial-and-error each time?
I bought a used Lee 38/357 set that came with two big flat washers that are used to space between 38 and 357. They look to be about the right thickness. I haven't used them yet. I've only used the size and deprime die thus far, without a spacer, its not needed for it. I've yet to load any 38 or 357.
At first I thought they were just regular hardware store washers but on one I can barely make out the letters RCBS and a number. I just checked the website but, couldn't find them, they must have sold them at one time I guess.
Midway has the same spacers from Redding http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=312274
They are $5.89 a piece but, I suppose if they save time fiddling around with dies or loosening lock rings its worth it.
At first I thought they were just regular hardware store washers but on one I can barely make out the letters RCBS and a number. I just checked the website but, couldn't find them, they must have sold them at one time I guess.
Midway has the same spacers from Redding http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=312274
They are $5.89 a piece but, I suppose if they save time fiddling around with dies or loosening lock rings its worth it.
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One set.
Reason being I don't shoot them much & personally have no need for .357.
If I was to use them for a protection round, I'd carry factory ammo.
If I need the knock down power for bowling pins, I prefer .45acp over .357.
For range and target practice .38's are a pleasure to shoot over .357. (Granted the recoil & muzzle flash is fun for a few rounds).
I've heard the theory that less bullet travel from the longer cartridge before it engages the forcing cone will translate to greater accuracy but I haven't found much difference. Not to mention less recoil from a .38 will help compensate that theory.
The only possible advantage I see is less fouling on a .357 cylinder from shooting them as opposed to .38's.
I'm sure they have their place but not for me.
Reason being I don't shoot them much & personally have no need for .357.
If I was to use them for a protection round, I'd carry factory ammo.
If I need the knock down power for bowling pins, I prefer .45acp over .357.
For range and target practice .38's are a pleasure to shoot over .357. (Granted the recoil & muzzle flash is fun for a few rounds).
I've heard the theory that less bullet travel from the longer cartridge before it engages the forcing cone will translate to greater accuracy but I haven't found much difference. Not to mention less recoil from a .38 will help compensate that theory.
The only possible advantage I see is less fouling on a .357 cylinder from shooting them as opposed to .38's.
I'm sure they have their place but not for me.
Two sets. I started out with one set and a single-stage press, eventually bought a used Dillon 550 with dies, so I set up the original set in a toolhead for .38, and kept the Dillon dies adjusted for .357. Probably wouldn't have invested in two sets if they hadn't arrived this way, but it sure is handy to do a quick toolhead swap rather than adjust the dies.
To use spacers you set the expander, seat and crimp dies up for .38. Then when you load .357 unscrew the die put the spacer on the press and screw the die back in.
If you use a single stage one spacer is all you need on a progressive you'd need one for each station.
I have a Dillon 550B. I ground 7/8" spacers to 0.015" thick that go between the toolhead and the lockring of the die. The default heights (lockring height) is set for the .38 special, I put the spacers in for .357 Mag (lift them up 0.015"). You only need this for the sizing and crimp die, you can leave the sizing/de-priming die alone.
I do have to adjust the funnel height which is pretty easy. Remove the powder bin and place an unsized piece of brass in the power charge/bell station (the second one). Pull the operating handle so that the shell goes all the way up and pushes the funnel up. Press down on the funnel to ensure its seated in the brass (the taper is just touching the case mouth). Then set the die height so that the top of the funnel is 0.140" +/- 0.002" from the top of the powder die. Replace powder bin. That gives me a good bell w/o over doing it.
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You're using lock rings that lock to the die, not ones that just lock to the head, right?
When I unscrew the die, the lock ring is loose.
I'm using a Dillon 550B, and all the die sets I have (nine, if I remember all of them) came with free spinning lock rings.
Once your dies are set, drop some Loc-Tite in them so they don't spin. The Dillon lock rings are pretty awful....
Or go buy some Hornady lock rings (Bass Pro has them) that allow you to tighten w/ a hex wrench.
I have two assmeblies for my Dillon 550. One has the bullet seating and crimping dies set for 38 Special the other for 357 magnum. I use the same sizing die for both. The only reason I use two asembles is that I had an old die set without a carbide sizer which I canibalized. Practically it only takes less than a minute to adjust the three dies so I would not recommend a dual assmbly.
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