357 mag questions.

[wiskie762]

I was reading my load data in my books and noticed that I could use titegroup for my powder. I am wondering if anyone has loaded 357 mag with this powder and what did you think.

This is the load data that I have in my book as well as here.(they are the same)
I lmeasured these rounds at 5.5 grains of powder.

158 GR. HDY XTP Hodgdon Titegroup .357" 1.580" 5.4 grn 1035 32,600 CUP 6.1grn 1184 41,900 CUP

I will be shooting these from a single shot rifle.

Also I loaded one of the rounds wrong.

The one on the left is the one in question. The one on the right is how they should look. Would you pull this or do you think it is safe to fire.

I would be willing to meet someone that has a chronograph to test these out.(not the one in question)

Thanks in advanced

 

[M1911]

I would pull the bad one. I don't load .357, so I can't comment on the load.

 

[gerrycaruso]

I load .357magnum with 4.8 gr. Titegroup and a 158 gr. cast bullet. This is a mild load for my revolvers. Titegroup is great for that application but is not the best for full power loads. I'd use a slower powder, especially for use in a rifle. Take a look at blue dot, w296 and h110. I didn't notice your location but I have a chronograph and I shoot at Harvard every weekend.

 

[xstickfightx]

Don't shoot that bullet on the left. Spend the 10 seconds to pull it and reuse the components. Better to be safe than sorry.

 

[Patriot]

I use AA#2 for lead and Win231 for jacketed - These are shot from revolvers.

 

[Dick]

Definitely don't shoot the one on the left. If you're careful with the inertial bullet puller you can tap the bullet out a bit, but not completely out of the case, and then reseat it properly. Also, that round on the right doesn't look like it has enough crimp - the case mouth should roll more into the cannelure. If you compare it with a factory round you'll see what I mean. A good solid crimp will improve accuracy and prevent the bullet backing out under recoil.

ETA: I have a chronograph you could shoot over, but we're not located particularly close to each other.

 

[M1911]

Also, that round on the right doesn't look like it has enough crimp - the case mouth should roll more into the cannelure. If you compare it with a factory round you'll see what I mean. A good solid crimp will improve accuracy and prevent the bullet backing out under recoil.

Good catch. I agree.

 

[6hold]

.

The reloaded round on the left that you posted, I would use the kinetic bullet puller on and definitely not use in a gun. That's a decent photo you have put forth.​

The one on the right I would crimp just enough of the lip of the cartridge so it enters the cannelure on the bullet made for it, so the bullet wont slip in deeper or out of the casing further. (round on the left above) Of course you should check your reloading manuals for any and all info you receive from the good and knowledgeable folks on the forums, just to be sure.​

 

[Zappa]

Originally Posted by Dick View Post
Also, that round on the right doesn't look like it has enough crimp - the case mouth should roll more into the cannelure. If you compare it with a factory round you'll see what I mean. A good solid crimp will improve accuracy and prevent the bullet backing out under recoil.

Good catch. I agree.

That's a moot point in this instance because the loads are being used in a single-shot rifle. They will not be subjected to recoil so backing-out will not be an issue. Also, by NOT using a roll crimp, you'll extend the life of the brass. I reload 18 different calibers and I get more split cases in .357 mag than any other caliber, especially nickel plated cases. I don't know why, but its always been that way. I also reload .357 MAX for use in a T/C and I only use a little bit of taper crimp.

 

[M1911]

Nickel plated cases are more likely to split than brass, regardless of the caliber.

 

[buffermop]

red dot

Any recipes for red dot for the .357 using 158gr jacketed round nose hollow points?